[Z06] Z06 H/C 600 rwhp+ recipie needed
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Z06 H/C 600 rwhp+ recipie needed
Ok im finally back in the game and can afford a C6Z. Im looking for a proven recipie heads cam what thickness head gaskets, push rods length.... ect and the rest for a 600rwhp do it yourself combo. I have a low mile Z with american racing headers and K&n intake so far.
#2
Melting Slicks
Vette Doctors can hook you up with a good combo.
#3
Burning Brakes
600 at the wheels without FI is going to mean a huge cam. If you've never driven a huge cammed car, suggest you do so before following someone's "recipe".
#4
Instructor
My car has made between 592 and 600 rwhp on a dynojet with a STOCK intake manifold and throttle body.
Car has ran 133+ multiple times at the track on pump gas as well with no issues in the heat. I am sure with a new TB and Fast 102, I would certainly pick up more power.
Car is a simple combination of CNC'ed Factory heads (The actual heads from my car), 235/251 on a 113 LSA (LMR Stage II camshaft), Kooks 1-7/8" Long Tubes, Kooks offroad x-pipe, and a tune from Late Model Racecraft.
As I said, it is not a SMALL cam but has a good tune in it. It has some idle surge every once in a while but overall I love it. Drive it all over the place. Car has nearly been Coast to Coast with the mods on it. I run MULTIPLE track days, car cruises, etc.
Just do your research. Pick your components wisely. Most Heads/Cam combos should at LEAST produce 580 rwhp with no issues.
#5
Burning Brakes
I stand behind my comment. 600 whp NA will have some idle shake and some surging. The advise was to experience that and make sure it's acceptable to him before pulling the trigger. The tolerance level for these things varies greatly by individual. What is considered "bad" by one is nothing to another.
I didn't mean that it wasn't possible or the outcome is awful, just that the drivability will not be stock and to go in with a realistic expectation by driving one first.
I didn't mean that it wasn't possible or the outcome is awful, just that the drivability will not be stock and to go in with a realistic expectation by driving one first.
#7
#8
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
This is something I talk with customers about ever day as they like to say I want a 'streetable' package. That is something completely different to every customer. Some don't mind a car that shakes side to side at a 1100 RPM idle and bucks at low speeds, while others just want a nice lope but really don't want it making their eyes wobble at a light and don't want to put up with low speed, low RPM driving issues.
This is what I would suggest doing, and you are off to a good start by asking around to see what guys have done here on the boards but I would add this..
- What RPM range do you typically drive in?
- What RPM range will the car rarely be in?
- What do you want the car to do (other than make 600rwhp)?
- What do you NOT want it to do?
- What fuel do you have available to you?
- How many miles a year do you drive, and what kind of maintenance do you want to do?
- How loud do you want it?
Some of the above can make or break your 600 rwhp goals....especially the fuel one. In some cases a supercharger might be more easily done as the cam could be much milder.
At any rate, yes a cam/heads/headers/FAST 102 combo should net you a 590-610 rwhp car given a big enough cam. We have done it a few times using our G7X4 and G7X5 cam's on stock short blocks. Car needs to be 11.4 to 11.6:1 compression and run on at least 93 octane to do it.
This graph...
- 2006 Z06 ( this was done spring of 06)
- Stock short block
- LG race ported LS7 heads with one piece Ti intake, stainless exhaust valves, fully ported and milled to 11.75:1 compression
- LG Super Pro headers
- Borla Stinger mufflers
- Meizer electric water pump
- Exedy twin disk clutch
- LG G7X5 cam
- Ported LS7 intake manifold
- Early 100mm TB
To date that has been the highest dyno'd stock short block we have done on pump gas. This was our in house test car so it lived a rather hard life and was probably a bit on the loose side. We have done countless others in the 595-605 range though. This was a rather radical cam, it idles around 1000 RPM and it was happiest above 1600 RPM when driving.
#9
Team Owner
To some people a cam that makes 530rwhp is too much. I tuned a car for a local that had a small little cam and he couldn't stand it. Spent tons of money trying to get it so he could cruising in neighborhoods at 900rpm like stock but the car would miss ever so slightly. He couldn't stand it.
My 580rwhp cammed car drove great, but not perfect. You had to learn how to drive it at low RPM. My 705-1100rwhp blower car drives much much much better, no issues at all, can chug along at 1000rpm. That is why I like blowers so much on these cars.
My 580rwhp cammed car drove great, but not perfect. You had to learn how to drive it at low RPM. My 705-1100rwhp blower car drives much much much better, no issues at all, can chug along at 1000rpm. That is why I like blowers so much on these cars.
#10
Melting Slicks
Are blower cams less lopey than a non blower cam? My goal in future is to get a blower on my car and still daily drive without any changes. I use to have a huge cam car for a daily when I was in my late teens early 20's. Didn't mind it then, but now it would be a little annoying.
#11
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Are blower cams less lopey than a non blower cam? My goal in future is to get a blower on my car and still daily drive without any changes. I use to have a huge cam car for a daily when I was in my late teens early 20's. Didn't mind it then, but now it would be a little annoying.
#12
Team Owner
What RPM range do you typically drive in?
What RPM range will the car rarely be in?
What do you want the car to do (other than make 600rwhp)?
What do you NOT want it to do?
What fuel do you have available to you?
How many miles a year do you drive, and what kind of maintenance do you want to do?
How loud do you want it?
What RPM range will the car rarely be in?
What do you want the car to do (other than make 600rwhp)?
What do you NOT want it to do?
What fuel do you have available to you?
How many miles a year do you drive, and what kind of maintenance do you want to do?
How loud do you want it?
#13
Melting Slicks
Interesting . I may have to go that route when the time comes. I would want a nice tame + low boost 700rwhp blower daily driver. Can be done I would think.
#14
Melting Slicks
Saying ATLEAST 580whp is high. Most people fall in the 560-580 range. The ones who do a more aggresive cam,FAST intake, etc. are the ones pushing 580-640 depending on compression and fuel.
#15
Melting Slicks
LMR's dyno usually is generous and who knows what the correction factor was when they calculated those numbers.
Saying ATLEAST 580whp is high. Most people fall in the 560-580 range. The ones who do a more aggresive cam,FAST intake, etc. are the ones pushing 580-640 depending on compression and fuel.
Saying ATLEAST 580whp is high. Most people fall in the 560-580 range. The ones who do a more aggresive cam,FAST intake, etc. are the ones pushing 580-640 depending on compression and fuel.
#16
Burning Brakes
I kindly disagree. I have a car that has now had 15,000 miles put on with the camshaft..... (43,000 total).
My car has made between 592 and 600 rwhp on a dynojet with a STOCK intake manifold and throttle body.
Car has ran 133+ multiple times at the track on pump gas as well with no issues in the heat. I am sure with a new TB and Fast 102, I would certainly pick up more power.
Car is a simple combination of CNC'ed Factory heads (The actual heads from my car), 235/251 on a 113 LSA (LMR Stage II camshaft), Kooks 1-7/8" Long Tubes, Kooks offroad x-pipe, and a tune from Late Model Racecraft.
As I said, it is not a SMALL cam but has a good tune in it. It has some idle surge every once in a while but overall I love it. Drive it all over the place. Car has nearly been Coast to Coast with the mods on it. I run MULTIPLE track days, car cruises, etc.
Just do your research. Pick your components wisely. Most Heads/Cam combos should at LEAST produce 580 rwhp with no issues.
My car has made between 592 and 600 rwhp on a dynojet with a STOCK intake manifold and throttle body.
Car has ran 133+ multiple times at the track on pump gas as well with no issues in the heat. I am sure with a new TB and Fast 102, I would certainly pick up more power.
Car is a simple combination of CNC'ed Factory heads (The actual heads from my car), 235/251 on a 113 LSA (LMR Stage II camshaft), Kooks 1-7/8" Long Tubes, Kooks offroad x-pipe, and a tune from Late Model Racecraft.
As I said, it is not a SMALL cam but has a good tune in it. It has some idle surge every once in a while but overall I love it. Drive it all over the place. Car has nearly been Coast to Coast with the mods on it. I run MULTIPLE track days, car cruises, etc.
Just do your research. Pick your components wisely. Most Heads/Cam combos should at LEAST produce 580 rwhp with no issues.
230/240 on a 113lsa, ARH 1 7/8, Ported Fast w/ NW TB, Ported heads, Vararam intake, Level 5 RPM trans, RXT clutch and ZR1 Mufflers = 555 rwhp on Mustang Dyno which seems right to me even though 596 on a Dynojet sounds better. I choose what I consider is more realistic and thats a mustang dyno. JMO
Last edited by Fifedogg; 04-02-2014 at 03:55 PM.
#17
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Lewisville TX
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
Heck I've even done it myself....got into a forum dyno war to see what I could do, but by the time I was done with it I didn't want to drive it because the work time vs drive time was like an Apache helicopter. 8hrs under the hood for 1 hr on the street. Just not worth it.
#18
Team Owner
#19
Instructor
LMR's dyno usually is generous and who knows what the correction factor was when they calculated those numbers.
Saying ATLEAST 580whp is high. Most people fall in the 560-580 range. The ones who do a more aggresive cam,FAST intake, etc. are the ones pushing 580-640 depending on compression and fuel.
Saying ATLEAST 580whp is high. Most people fall in the 560-580 range. The ones who do a more aggresive cam,FAST intake, etc. are the ones pushing 580-640 depending on compression and fuel.
I will agree though, dynos are simply tools to establish a baseline of what you can do.
I am not worried about it though. I like my factory CNC'ed heads/cam running what it does with no expensive manifold or throttle body. It has been great.
#20
I have gone about running at the track and many cars on the street. The car has run between 132 and 134 multiple times.
I will agree though, dynos are simply tools to establish a baseline of what you can do.
I am not worried about it though. I like my factory CNC'ed heads/cam running what it does with no expensive manifold or throttle body. It has been great.
I will agree though, dynos are simply tools to establish a baseline of what you can do.
I am not worried about it though. I like my factory CNC'ed heads/cam running what it does with no expensive manifold or throttle body. It has been great.