[Z06] O2 sensor keeps going bad
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
O2 sensor keeps going bad
It seems like once a year I have to replace my up stream drivers side O2 sensor for codes P0030 heater control circuit (bank 1 sensor 1) and code P0053.
I have long tube headers and cats, and a cam and tune.
This is the third sensor I have gone thru in the same position.
Is there a sensor that anyone can recommend that will last?
P.S. I didn't have to use wiring extensions for the headers and the wiring looks good.
I have long tube headers and cats, and a cam and tune.
This is the third sensor I have gone thru in the same position.
Is there a sensor that anyone can recommend that will last?
P.S. I didn't have to use wiring extensions for the headers and the wiring looks good.
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
#4
Pro Mechanic
Pro Mechanic
With three sensors replaced, you likely do not have a problem with sensors at all.
I'm going to guess that the location of the bung for bank 1/sensor 1 is too far back in the driver side header. That causes the sensor to cool below where it works best. That, in turn, causes the ECM to turn the sensor heater on more often or even all the time. That, in turn, causes decreased heater circuit durability. When the heater circuit finally dies the ECM sets at DTC0030 (faulty heater circuit) then the sensor doesn't work properly, the ECM decides the sensor is running too cool and sets a DTC0053.
There is no solution to this problem other than either:
1) Having the headers modified to move bank 1/sensor 1 closer to the engine
2) Get better headers with a properly placed sensor bung.
3) Just keep replacing the sensor when its heater dies from being "abused".
I have found that the sensors with best durability are Densos and, in fact, the LS7 sensors I've seen are Densos.
I'm going to guess that the location of the bung for bank 1/sensor 1 is too far back in the driver side header. That causes the sensor to cool below where it works best. That, in turn, causes the ECM to turn the sensor heater on more often or even all the time. That, in turn, causes decreased heater circuit durability. When the heater circuit finally dies the ECM sets at DTC0030 (faulty heater circuit) then the sensor doesn't work properly, the ECM decides the sensor is running too cool and sets a DTC0053.
There is no solution to this problem other than either:
1) Having the headers modified to move bank 1/sensor 1 closer to the engine
2) Get better headers with a properly placed sensor bung.
3) Just keep replacing the sensor when its heater dies from being "abused".
I have found that the sensors with best durability are Densos and, in fact, the LS7 sensors I've seen are Densos.
The following users liked this post:
C5 Hardtop (06-05-2021)
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
With three sensors replaced, you likely do not have a problem with sensors at all.
I'm going to guess that the location of the bung for bank 1/sensor 1 is too far back in the driver side header. That causes the sensor to cool below where it works best. That, in turn, causes the ECM to turn the sensor heater on more often or even all the time. That, in turn, causes decreased heater circuit durability. When the heater circuit finally dies the ECM sets at DTC0030 (faulty heater circuit) then the sensor doesn't work properly, the ECM decides the sensor is running too cool and sets a DTC0053.
There is no solution to this problem other than either:
1) Having the headers modified to move bank 1/sensor 1 closer to the engine
2) Get better headers with a properly placed sensor bung.
3) Just keep replacing the sensor when its heater dies from being "abused".
I have found that the sensors with best durability are Densos and, in fact, the LS7 sensors I've seen are Densos.
I'm going to guess that the location of the bung for bank 1/sensor 1 is too far back in the driver side header. That causes the sensor to cool below where it works best. That, in turn, causes the ECM to turn the sensor heater on more often or even all the time. That, in turn, causes decreased heater circuit durability. When the heater circuit finally dies the ECM sets at DTC0030 (faulty heater circuit) then the sensor doesn't work properly, the ECM decides the sensor is running too cool and sets a DTC0053.
There is no solution to this problem other than either:
1) Having the headers modified to move bank 1/sensor 1 closer to the engine
2) Get better headers with a properly placed sensor bung.
3) Just keep replacing the sensor when its heater dies from being "abused".
I have found that the sensors with best durability are Densos and, in fact, the LS7 sensors I've seen are Densos.
Thanks Hib
#6
Le Mans Master
Good info. I just had the same sensor fail at Track Attack for the first time. I have Kooks headers.
Jim
Jim
#7
Advanced
Thread Starter
I have Pfadt headers.
It seems weird that it is always in the same position. (but I'm pretty sure Hib is right about what is happening).
I've tried Denso and Bosch brands.
I just ordered a.n AC Delco.
It seems weird that it is always in the same position. (but I'm pretty sure Hib is right about what is happening).
I've tried Denso and Bosch brands.
I just ordered a.n AC Delco.
#8
I know this is an old thread... but I've been having the same problem with my 2008 C6 Z06. The right side bank 1 sensor 1 keeps burning out the heater circuit when I have track days. I had it replaced and drove city driving for a month without any problems. But within the first two track sessions, the check engine light came on
and from past track days, it's the same O2 sensor heater circuit. I have long tube headers from Texas Speed with rear sensor delete and no cats. The car has a mild cam and tune. This will be the third sensor I've replaced after track events. Car runs fine on track after the sensor goes, so I've been thinking about just putting in one of the bad sensors
as part of track prepping. Better than $150 sensor after each track weekend. I've read above about changing the position of the sensor, but wouldn't that also mess with what the computer sees and then it adjusts mixture? I read somewhere on this forum that someone corrected their issue by changing to another manufacturers header?
Also had an unrelated problem last summer, where after starting the car after it's been hot and setting a little, I then take off but when I come to a stop and put both feet in, the motor will drop rpm enough at times to die completely. Sometimes it catches and returns to normal idle, sometimes not. But after I've driven a few miles that
problem goes away. Any suggestions?
and from past track days, it's the same O2 sensor heater circuit. I have long tube headers from Texas Speed with rear sensor delete and no cats. The car has a mild cam and tune. This will be the third sensor I've replaced after track events. Car runs fine on track after the sensor goes, so I've been thinking about just putting in one of the bad sensors
as part of track prepping. Better than $150 sensor after each track weekend. I've read above about changing the position of the sensor, but wouldn't that also mess with what the computer sees and then it adjusts mixture? I read somewhere on this forum that someone corrected their issue by changing to another manufacturers header?
Also had an unrelated problem last summer, where after starting the car after it's been hot and setting a little, I then take off but when I come to a stop and put both feet in, the motor will drop rpm enough at times to die completely. Sometimes it catches and returns to normal idle, sometimes not. But after I've driven a few miles that
problem goes away. Any suggestions?
#9
Le Mans Master
I know this is an old thread... but I've been having the same problem with my 2008 C6 Z06. The right side bank 1 sensor 1 keeps burning out the heater circuit when I have track days. I had it replaced and drove city driving for a month without any problems. But within the first two track sessions, the check engine light came on
and from past track days, it's the same O2 sensor heater circuit. I have long tube headers from Texas Speed with rear sensor delete and no cats. The car has a mild cam and tune. This will be the third sensor I've replaced after track events. Car runs fine on track after the sensor goes, so I've been thinking about just putting in one of the bad sensors
as part of track prepping. Better than $150 sensor after each track weekend. I've read above about changing the position of the sensor, but wouldn't that also mess with what the computer sees and then it adjusts mixture? I read somewhere on this forum that someone corrected their issue by changing to another manufacturers header?
Also had an unrelated problem last summer, where after starting the car after it's been hot and setting a little, I then take off but when I come to a stop and put both feet in, the motor will drop rpm enough at times to die completely. Sometimes it catches and returns to normal idle, sometimes not. But after I've driven a few miles that
problem goes away. Any suggestions?
and from past track days, it's the same O2 sensor heater circuit. I have long tube headers from Texas Speed with rear sensor delete and no cats. The car has a mild cam and tune. This will be the third sensor I've replaced after track events. Car runs fine on track after the sensor goes, so I've been thinking about just putting in one of the bad sensors
as part of track prepping. Better than $150 sensor after each track weekend. I've read above about changing the position of the sensor, but wouldn't that also mess with what the computer sees and then it adjusts mixture? I read somewhere on this forum that someone corrected their issue by changing to another manufacturers header?
Also had an unrelated problem last summer, where after starting the car after it's been hot and setting a little, I then take off but when I come to a stop and put both feet in, the motor will drop rpm enough at times to die completely. Sometimes it catches and returns to normal idle, sometimes not. But after I've driven a few miles that
problem goes away. Any suggestions?
The following 2 users liked this post by jayyyw:
flyloeZ06 (04-08-2019),
Joe Jorgensen (08-03-2020)
#10
Melting Slicks
i just started getting P0135 on mine (07 h/c/ex z06), ordered 2 ac delco sensors off amazon
after 3-4th time i start the light comes on, which is weird because the malfunction description is sensor heater related
hoping that the new o2s help it
running LG headers fwiw
after 3-4th time i start the light comes on, which is weird because the malfunction description is sensor heater related
hoping that the new o2s help it
running LG headers fwiw
#11
Last edited by zrc3john; 06-05-2021 at 07:04 AM.