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[Z06] How to repair your melted fan connector

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Old 06-13-2016, 08:37 PM
  #21  
MTPZ06
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Originally Posted by SteveDoten@ARH
Great post, should be a 'sticky'
Old 06-13-2016, 09:29 PM
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Jake5670
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Originally Posted by rabrooks
I've never seen a fan mounted to the top of the super charger like that before!
Old 06-14-2016, 07:14 AM
  #23  
stefuel
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Soldering will give you the best electrical connection to the plug. The only problem with soldered connections is vibration. Sustained vibration will cause the wire to break right where the solder stopped wicking up the wire. If the wires are secured and can't vibrate you will be just fine. Crimping eliminates the vibration issue but the connection within the crimp can degrade over time from contamination. Choose your poison.
Old 06-14-2016, 07:39 AM
  #24  
BadAV
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Originally Posted by stefuel
Soldering will give you the best electrical connection to the plug. The only problem with soldered connections is vibration. Sustained vibration will cause the wire to break right where the solder stopped wicking up the wire. If the wires are secured and can't vibrate you will be just fine. Crimping eliminates the vibration issue but the connection within the crimp can degrade over time from contamination. Choose your poison.
I personally prefer a soldered joint over a crimped joint. Done correctly I believe it is a better long term solution than a crimped joint. IMO there's a lot more room for error with amateur crimp joints than with soldered joints.
Old 06-23-2016, 06:33 PM
  #25  
Paul Gurm
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Originally Posted by Z06 Steve
most guys are just cutting the connectors out of the mix and soldering the wires together
I'm thinking of just hard wiring it. had the same issue last year and the connector was not all that bad. I replaced the module, fan, thermostat, coolant. ran great all last summer but during this summer when we had a very hot day the check engine light came on, over heated on the way home and threw code 1482.

I'm wondering if hard wiring is best option rather than have another connector melt on me again.

Any suggestions / feed back on best way to stop this embarrassment?

My car is a LS7 Z06 tuned with a pro charger , headers, exhaust, etc...

Last edited by Paul Gurm; 06-23-2016 at 06:37 PM.
Old 06-24-2016, 11:49 AM
  #26  
erick_e
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Originally Posted by Paul Gurm
I'm thinking of just hard wiring it. had the same issue last year and the connector was not all that bad. I replaced the module, fan, thermostat, coolant. ran great all last summer but during this summer when we had a very hot day the check engine light came on, over heated on the way home and threw code 1482.

I'm wondering if hard wiring is best option rather than have another connector melt on me again.

Any suggestions / feed back on best way to stop this embarrassment?

My car is a LS7 Z06 tuned with a pro charger , headers, exhaust, etc...
If your fans are set to run more than 90% that is more than likely the culprit.
Old 06-27-2016, 02:31 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by erick_e
If your fans are set to run more than 90% that is more than likely the culprit.

So I hard wired the connection.
Fan speed is at 90%
Fan works if I put power to it. Module is fine. Replaced again under warranty.

Took for a test run code was gone.
Was fine until stopped in driveway and again temp gauge shot up check engine came on and no fan 😫

I'm thinking of going thru the diagonstic step by step but I'm getting frustrated.

Any other feed back would be much appreciated
Old 06-28-2016, 02:20 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Paul Gurm
So I hard wired the connection.
Fan speed is at 90%
Fan works if I put power to it. Module is fine. Replaced again under warranty.

Took for a test run code was gone.
Was fine until stopped in driveway and again temp gauge shot up check engine came on and no fan 😫

I'm thinking of going thru the diagonstic step by step but I'm getting frustrated.

Any other feed back would be much appreciated

Finally solved! Damn 60 amp fuse blew when I hard wired. Now runs fine
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Old 06-28-2016, 06:11 PM
  #29  
double06
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Default Do you have a factory

or aftermarket radiator?
Old 07-12-2016, 04:45 PM
  #30  
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Default Removal of radiator fan

Originally Posted by erick_e
If your fans are set to run more than 90% that is more than likely the culprit.
eric_e how hard was to removed the fan from the radiator, I need to remove just the fan, is this done from the bottom?
Old 07-12-2016, 08:36 PM
  #31  
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Nice write up. This happened to my ECS supercharged Vette. I had bypassed the connector and soldered in a new ground to chassis. The Power wire (red) eventually melted the connector also. I ended up bypassing it all together and buying a D3 Dual fan setup. Thing runs freaking awesome. Super cool and no more melted connector problems.
Old 07-12-2016, 11:06 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by MLRS
eric_e how hard was to removed the fan from the radiator, I need to remove just the fan, is this done from the bottom?
It's not too bad. I did it from the underside on a set of RaceRamps. The worst part was reaching into the confined spaces to disconnect everything. Be prepared for the usual cuts and scrapes from the sharp plastic edges and power steering cooler.
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Old 07-13-2016, 06:05 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by greatgonzer
Nice write up. This happened to my ECS supercharged Vette. I had bypassed the connector and soldered in a new ground to chassis. The Power wire (red) eventually melted the connector also. I ended up bypassing it all together and buying a D3 Dual fan setup. Thing runs freaking awesome. Super cool and no more melted connector problems.
Do you know the amp draw for this set up? I' m about to pull the trigger on this one.
Old 07-13-2016, 09:03 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BadAV
I personally prefer a soldered joint over a crimped joint. Done correctly I believe it is a better long term solution than a crimped joint. IMO there's a lot more room for error with amateur crimp joints than with soldered joints.
Actually solder increases resistance and a properly made crimp with the correct heat shrink (Anchor Marine) connectors and crimpers is best. I make these hi current connections everyday in the marine environment.
Old 07-13-2016, 11:09 AM
  #35  
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I cut the connectors off and soldered the wires together after a melted fan connector left me stranded an hour away from home.
Old 08-20-2016, 10:46 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by EX1
I cut the connectors off and soldered the wires together after a melted fan connector left me stranded an hour away from home.
Bummer! I just had the same thing happen to me yesterday. You can tell GM built this car....I guess i'm gonna try soldering my wires together and delete the connector. Eventually I would like to upgrade to a D3 fan kit but can't afford it now.
Old 09-08-2016, 04:27 PM
  #37  
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Happened to me yesterday. I don't blame GM. The car didn't come with the tune changing the fan settings and the Procharger.

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Old 09-09-2016, 12:13 AM
  #38  
Hib Halverson
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I read this thread with interest.

Is the problem the resistance where the OE pins are crimped on the wires?

Or is it the connection made by the joint between the male and female pins when the connecters are together.
Old 09-09-2016, 07:34 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Hib Halverson
I read this thread with interest.

Is the problem the resistance where the OE pins are crimped on the wires?

Or is it the connection made by the joint between the male and female pins when the connecters are together.
With 5mm wire (which is used) and temperatures at 75c or 167f (not unheard of under the hood) the connector is only rated at 35 amps.

Considering the 400 watt fan draws around 32 amps, anything over 80c or 176f exceeds the capacity of the connector.

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Old 10-16-2016, 09:09 AM
  #40  
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I have read several threads on the fan issue, which I currently am experiencing. The size of the wires is referred to several times. Just what is the gauge of the wires, used in the fan circuit, that are in the car from the factory? I have a 2011 GS.


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