[Z06] How to repair your melted fan connector
#21
Team Owner
#23
Soldering will give you the best electrical connection to the plug. The only problem with soldered connections is vibration. Sustained vibration will cause the wire to break right where the solder stopped wicking up the wire. If the wires are secured and can't vibrate you will be just fine. Crimping eliminates the vibration issue but the connection within the crimp can degrade over time from contamination. Choose your poison.
#24
Race Director
Soldering will give you the best electrical connection to the plug. The only problem with soldered connections is vibration. Sustained vibration will cause the wire to break right where the solder stopped wicking up the wire. If the wires are secured and can't vibrate you will be just fine. Crimping eliminates the vibration issue but the connection within the crimp can degrade over time from contamination. Choose your poison.
#25
I'm wondering if hard wiring is best option rather than have another connector melt on me again.
Any suggestions / feed back on best way to stop this embarrassment?
My car is a LS7 Z06 tuned with a pro charger , headers, exhaust, etc...
Last edited by Paul Gurm; 06-23-2016 at 06:37 PM.
#26
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I'm thinking of just hard wiring it. had the same issue last year and the connector was not all that bad. I replaced the module, fan, thermostat, coolant. ran great all last summer but during this summer when we had a very hot day the check engine light came on, over heated on the way home and threw code 1482.
I'm wondering if hard wiring is best option rather than have another connector melt on me again.
Any suggestions / feed back on best way to stop this embarrassment?
My car is a LS7 Z06 tuned with a pro charger , headers, exhaust, etc...
I'm wondering if hard wiring is best option rather than have another connector melt on me again.
Any suggestions / feed back on best way to stop this embarrassment?
My car is a LS7 Z06 tuned with a pro charger , headers, exhaust, etc...
#27
So I hard wired the connection.
Fan speed is at 90%
Fan works if I put power to it. Module is fine. Replaced again under warranty.
Took for a test run code was gone.
Was fine until stopped in driveway and again temp gauge shot up check engine came on and no fan 😫
I'm thinking of going thru the diagonstic step by step but I'm getting frustrated.
Any other feed back would be much appreciated
#28
So I hard wired the connection.
Fan speed is at 90%
Fan works if I put power to it. Module is fine. Replaced again under warranty.
Took for a test run code was gone.
Was fine until stopped in driveway and again temp gauge shot up check engine came on and no fan 😫
I'm thinking of going thru the diagonstic step by step but I'm getting frustrated.
Any other feed back would be much appreciated
Fan speed is at 90%
Fan works if I put power to it. Module is fine. Replaced again under warranty.
Took for a test run code was gone.
Was fine until stopped in driveway and again temp gauge shot up check engine came on and no fan 😫
I'm thinking of going thru the diagonstic step by step but I'm getting frustrated.
Any other feed back would be much appreciated
Finally solved! Damn 60 amp fuse blew when I hard wired. Now runs fine
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joliett (09-05-2022)
#29
Melting Slicks
Do you have a factory
or aftermarket radiator?
#30
#31
Nice write up. This happened to my ECS supercharged Vette. I had bypassed the connector and soldered in a new ground to chassis. The Power wire (red) eventually melted the connector also. I ended up bypassing it all together and buying a D3 Dual fan setup. Thing runs freaking awesome. Super cool and no more melted connector problems.
#32
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
It's not too bad. I did it from the underside on a set of RaceRamps. The worst part was reaching into the confined spaces to disconnect everything. Be prepared for the usual cuts and scrapes from the sharp plastic edges and power steering cooler.
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MLRS (07-13-2016)
#33
Nice write up. This happened to my ECS supercharged Vette. I had bypassed the connector and soldered in a new ground to chassis. The Power wire (red) eventually melted the connector also. I ended up bypassing it all together and buying a D3 Dual fan setup. Thing runs freaking awesome. Super cool and no more melted connector problems.
#34
Actually solder increases resistance and a properly made crimp with the correct heat shrink (Anchor Marine) connectors and crimpers is best. I make these hi current connections everyday in the marine environment.
#36
Bummer! I just had the same thing happen to me yesterday. You can tell GM built this car....I guess i'm gonna try soldering my wires together and delete the connector. Eventually I would like to upgrade to a D3 fan kit but can't afford it now.
#38
Pro Mechanic
Pro Mechanic
I read this thread with interest.
Is the problem the resistance where the OE pins are crimped on the wires?
Or is it the connection made by the joint between the male and female pins when the connecters are together.
Is the problem the resistance where the OE pins are crimped on the wires?
Or is it the connection made by the joint between the male and female pins when the connecters are together.
#39
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Considering the 400 watt fan draws around 32 amps, anything over 80c or 176f exceeds the capacity of the connector.
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Aardwolf (05-15-2022)
#40
I have read several threads on the fan issue, which I currently am experiencing. The size of the wires is referred to several times. Just what is the gauge of the wires, used in the fan circuit, that are in the car from the factory? I have a 2011 GS.