[Z06] Cam Scared
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Cam Scared
Hi all.
After reading intensely for the last few months, I am going to have the head work done on my 07 C6Z (13 k miles).
The builder I am using is reputable and specializes in LS motors and comes highly recommended on this site and others, so his knowledge is not my issue. Its my decision on what cam to use...... sigh.
Here is what he is recommending:
-Comp Cam 243 259 .660 .660 116
-WCCH stage 2 CNC LS7 heads(using my heads as cores)
-GM MLS head gaskets
-GM head bolt set
-Dual Platinium Valve Spring kit with Titanium Retainers, new valve seals, seats, and locks
-New GM Crank Bolt
-New front cover gasket, seal, and water pump gaskets
-NGK TR6 Spark Plugs
-Oil change (Mobil One oil, and ACdelco oil filter)
-Top off all fluids
-Professional Installation
-Full Dyno and street tuning with
-160 thermostat
-Fast 102 Intake
-Fast billet fuel rails with AN lines
-Kooks LT coated
-Kooks catted X
-Halltech 103
I just don't know if I want THAT much cam. I have spoke to him and will discuss further on Friday, but here's what I would "like" to accomplish... knowing there will be compromises.... just want some real life opinions on what you guys have done to your cars with cams.
1. Drivablility on the highway at 1400-2000 RPM
2. Fuel economy for trips. Currently get 26 - 28 mpg. (Its not the money)
3. Ability to drive in summer heat with the A/C on.
4. Occasional track day at the strip.
5. Yeah... HP to the wheels, but 7,000rpm not all that important.
6. Want it to "sound" like it has a cam.
I have been reading about the Kaotic and the Katech tourquers, but what are you guys seeing in drivablility, fuel on the highway and how much horsepower (dyno) with a similar setup, but different cam?
I am dropping the car off this Friday to have the heads pulled and shipped, so I don't have alot of time to contemplate this. I know some of this is subjective.
Thanks in advance!
OH!!! This package will put the car at 590whp and 570t.
After reading intensely for the last few months, I am going to have the head work done on my 07 C6Z (13 k miles).
The builder I am using is reputable and specializes in LS motors and comes highly recommended on this site and others, so his knowledge is not my issue. Its my decision on what cam to use...... sigh.
Here is what he is recommending:
-Comp Cam 243 259 .660 .660 116
-WCCH stage 2 CNC LS7 heads(using my heads as cores)
-GM MLS head gaskets
-GM head bolt set
-Dual Platinium Valve Spring kit with Titanium Retainers, new valve seals, seats, and locks
-New GM Crank Bolt
-New front cover gasket, seal, and water pump gaskets
-NGK TR6 Spark Plugs
-Oil change (Mobil One oil, and ACdelco oil filter)
-Top off all fluids
-Professional Installation
-Full Dyno and street tuning with
-160 thermostat
-Fast 102 Intake
-Fast billet fuel rails with AN lines
-Kooks LT coated
-Kooks catted X
-Halltech 103
I just don't know if I want THAT much cam. I have spoke to him and will discuss further on Friday, but here's what I would "like" to accomplish... knowing there will be compromises.... just want some real life opinions on what you guys have done to your cars with cams.
1. Drivablility on the highway at 1400-2000 RPM
2. Fuel economy for trips. Currently get 26 - 28 mpg. (Its not the money)
3. Ability to drive in summer heat with the A/C on.
4. Occasional track day at the strip.
5. Yeah... HP to the wheels, but 7,000rpm not all that important.
6. Want it to "sound" like it has a cam.
I have been reading about the Kaotic and the Katech tourquers, but what are you guys seeing in drivablility, fuel on the highway and how much horsepower (dyno) with a similar setup, but different cam?
I am dropping the car off this Friday to have the heads pulled and shipped, so I don't have alot of time to contemplate this. I know some of this is subjective.
Thanks in advance!
OH!!! This package will put the car at 590whp and 570t.
Last edited by ratomicZ06; 01-14-2015 at 07:42 AM.
#3
First, based on that list I wouldn't let this guy touch my car, regardless of his reputation.
Given the guide wear issue, you want an 'endurance' cam. Talk to the folks at EPS/Cam Motion. Lower lift and generally 'easier' on the already stressed LS7 valvetrain. A little less power (maybe 20 HP peak).
Two, you don't want tractor pull dual valve springs. You want quality (PAC or PSI) beehives.
Third, you don't want those heavy assed solid exhaust valves from tractor repair shop WCCH.
Fourth, I wouldn't spend $700 on porting factory-ported heads unless I wanted dyno wallpaper. Edit: Not to mention the possibility of negatively impacting low RPM throttle response.
Last, if you're going to get a tune you don't need the $500 Halltech either.
You don't need the NGK plugs (at 13K miles your stock plugs are fine) or the 160 tstat (more 1960's thinking).
He's giving you the cookie cutter dyno queen package, 'one size fits all'. Not a pro approach IMHO.
.
Given the guide wear issue, you want an 'endurance' cam. Talk to the folks at EPS/Cam Motion. Lower lift and generally 'easier' on the already stressed LS7 valvetrain. A little less power (maybe 20 HP peak).
Two, you don't want tractor pull dual valve springs. You want quality (PAC or PSI) beehives.
Third, you don't want those heavy assed solid exhaust valves from tractor repair shop WCCH.
Fourth, I wouldn't spend $700 on porting factory-ported heads unless I wanted dyno wallpaper. Edit: Not to mention the possibility of negatively impacting low RPM throttle response.
Last, if you're going to get a tune you don't need the $500 Halltech either.
You don't need the NGK plugs (at 13K miles your stock plugs are fine) or the 160 tstat (more 1960's thinking).
He's giving you the cookie cutter dyno queen package, 'one size fits all'. Not a pro approach IMHO.
.
Last edited by Mark2009; 01-14-2015 at 09:40 AM.
#4
Former Vendor
Member Since: Jul 2014
Location: Harrodsburg KY
Posts: 263
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would much rather have the SS exhaust valves in my car, Yes the 2 piece factory are lighter, but is it really worth the teeny bit of HP you're going to gain? Nope... I would rather have something in there that if the guide gets worn will NOT break and destroy an engine. Just my Opinion. DO NOT run the bronze guides, cylinder head shops install the bronze guides due to the ease of sizing these guides vs the powder metal guides. Powder metal is a harder material hands down, they will take longer to wear. Im good friends with Brian Tooley and sell nothing but his valvetrain parts. Theres a reason my car did what it did. His camshafts/valvetrain are second to none. Ive seen several PAC/other beehive springs break, there is no way in the world I would run a beehive spring on an engine with a camshaft above 600 lift. There will be tons of opinions here, I speak from real world use with my own car and what Ive learned with the help from Brian and other gurus. I ran nearly a .700 lift camshaft in my Z06 for over a year of HARD track/street abuse before I sold it, since then the guy has put over 7k miles on it. No issues.
#5
Le Mans Master
Don't think you'll be happy with the cam - too much duration - look elsewhere
As for Marks insults to WCCH - well, I won't go there - insulting a company that has helped hundreds in here but I do agree with his points except 'Two' and 'Third'
good luck
As for Marks insults to WCCH - well, I won't go there - insulting a company that has helped hundreds in here but I do agree with his points except 'Two' and 'Third'
good luck
#6
Team Owner
I would much rather have the SS exhaust valves in my car, Yes the 2 piece factory are lighter, but is it really worth the teeny bit of HP you're going to gain? Nope... I would rather have something in there that if the guide gets worn will NOT break and destroy an engine.
#7
And that would be a reason to choose between the two?
#8
Safety Car
OP talk offline in your area to other owners with modified C6 z06's, call multiple shops in your area, and some of the shops listed on this forum. Ask a lot of questions, specifically how many cars they have built with the heads using WCCH and how many have had problems?
Tractor pull, tractor springs and other comments are lets say just agenda by a person who has not even shared if he has resolved his out spec guides in his car! No need for 160 thermostat on a modified car, no need for NGK plugs are BS... Katech tested the Halltech MF103 and recommends it on there builds! Do a search you'll see it listed on the builds!
There are a lot of modified z06's on this site with close to same modifications you are looking at .. Look at the C6 z06 Fast List...
Tractor pull, tractor springs and other comments are lets say just agenda by a person who has not even shared if he has resolved his out spec guides in his car! No need for 160 thermostat on a modified car, no need for NGK plugs are BS... Katech tested the Halltech MF103 and recommends it on there builds! Do a search you'll see it listed on the builds!
There are a lot of modified z06's on this site with close to same modifications you are looking at .. Look at the C6 z06 Fast List...
#9
Safety Car
A cam close to Katech's k501 will give you the drive ability you desire. I have a similar cam on my car with ported stage 2 WCCH heads, ported factory intake manifold and tb, and Halltech Killer Bee. The car will cruise in 6th at 65 mph with no surging. WCCH has a good track record and I would ask it for advice on porting and valve springs.
#10
Safety Car
Agree 100%, Way too much duration and if you want you guides to last that's way too much lift. EPS or Patrick G to spec the cam
First, based on that list I wouldn't let this guy touch my car, regardless of his reputation. Given the guide wear issue, you want an 'endurance' cam. Talk to the folks at EPS/Cam Motion. Lower lift and generally 'easier' on the already stressed LS7 valvetrain. A little less power (maybe 20 HP peak). Two, you don't want tractor pull dual valve springs. You want quality (PAC or PSI) beehives. Third, you don't want those heavy assed solid exhaust valves from tractor repair shop WCCH. Fourth, I wouldn't spend $700 on porting factory-ported heads unless I wanted dyno wallpaper. Edit: Not to mention the possibility of negatively impacting low RPM throttle response. Last, if you're going to get a tune you don't need the $500 Halltech either. You don't need the NGK plugs (at 13K miles your stock plugs are fine) or the 160 tstat (more 1960's thinking). He's giving you the cookie cutter dyno queen package, 'one size fits all'. Not a pro approach IMHO. .
#11
#12
#13
Safety Car
#14
Safety Car
#16
Safety Car
#17
Team Owner
I would much rather have the SS exhaust valves in my car, Yes the 2 piece factory are lighter, but is it really worth the teeny bit of HP you're going to gain? Nope... I would rather have something in there that if the guide gets worn will NOT break and destroy an engine. Just my Opinion. DO NOT run the bronze guides, cylinder head shops install the bronze guides due to the ease of sizing these guides vs the powder metal guides. Powder metal is a harder material hands down, they will take longer to wear. Im good friends with Brian Tooley and sell nothing but his valvetrain parts. Theres a reason my car did what it did. His camshafts/valvetrain are second to none. Ive seen several PAC/other beehive springs break, there is no way in the world I would run a beehive spring on an engine with a camshaft above 600 lift. There will be tons of opinions here, I speak from real world use with my own car and what Ive learned with the help from Brian and other gurus. I ran nearly a .700 lift camshaft in my Z06 for over a year of HARD track/street abuse before I sold it, since then the guy has put over 7k miles on it. No issues.
I agree with this. I am using SS valves with powder metal guides. Best combo in my opinion. Been running hard for two years now with 0 issues.
#18
Drifting
For me (I don't know about you) I have a big cam. I want a bigger faster cam. I want an animal for a z06..The bit of bucking doenst bother me much.I don't daily drive...MSD intake coming out soon. Im hearing more hp then fast. tr7 ix plugs? tr6 is stock heat range for z06 and you are not going to be stock..I spoke to guys with giant cams seems to be the same as just big cams. haltech 107? Brain tooley and pac and 921 comp springs I heard good things.. Put an under drive pulley on? 1 7/8 kooks? I like your other choices...wcch are good for big power..160 good...1,400 rpm on the hwy? I cant do that. Wont sound much like a cam if its small . You know I have a cam and a big one...Borla exhaust sounds mean. Don't be like me and wish I would have gone bigger to start with everything...You will get used to that hp level ,will you want more? If so do it now same money now.. What clutch you running your beast with? lol stock? rps bc2 good choice for me pure animal.
Last edited by meinersk; 01-14-2015 at 12:23 PM.
#19
Safety Car
#20
Safety Car