EnginerdVT

Forgot to post about my spacers for the subframe. I was having issues with the blower housing touching the underside of the hood liners and having to really push to get the hood shut. I'm on stock height Hinson mounts (NOT the 3/8" lowered ones) and these Lingenfelter spacers did the trick. They are right on their site and slotted so you don't have the completely remove anything and list at approximately 0.25". Great little adder that made a huge different. The lowered Hinson mounts would have cause issues between the header and the subframe and possibly the balancer and the subframe (looked really close). These kept those distances consistent and gave me just enough room.

Pb82 Ronin

That's cool man. I just wanted to mention it. I've heard it causes a slight flow restriction in high HP applications. I was going to recommend T-ing off you main line and keeping 1 side -8 all the way, and you T to the sensor could be -6. That way you're not necking down your main feed line to anything less than -8. Either way, cool build. Looking forward to results.

Apocolipse

Street car I guess? Spacers mess up the suspension geometry but if you arent tracking it you wont notice. Nice build!

EnginerdVT

Definitely not planning on turning any corners at speed. No room for front sway bar and the right tires want to go straight only. I am looking to do some straight line tracking in the form of 1/2 mile and runway events.

Apocolipse

Going to be a fun ride! Thanks for posting all the updates.

EnginerdVT

Well... a few steps forward and major step back today...

Got the front end buttoned up from a piping perspective and all I have left is to get my post intercooler pipe made up to replace the kit one that came and isn't going to work.

We got setup to pressure test fuel and go ZIPPPPY... after some messing around we decided it was best to just drop the trans and go the crossover back off and dropped the tanks really easily (Thanks God for lifts!). Crossover was good. Upon opening up the driver's tank, ALL THREE of the pumps were spraying craziness. Most likely all three are cracked from the person I purchased them from all put together in the tank. I did this to myself, I deserve no pity . Fore was on top of it to help me get some replacement hardware and o-rings to take things apart and assess the damage for possibly replacing all three pumps. Will know more in a few days.

EnginerdVT

So got the bottom of the fuel pressure issue. One of the 3 Walbro 267's was cracked completely through at the neck. Anytime any of the pumps ran, it fed back through the common manifold in the Fore Fuel Module assembly and spewed out of the one broken pump. After removing everything for a thorough inspection, I decided to swap to 274's while they were out since it looks like with the starting fuel pressure we want to start with, we'll be borderline on popping the relief valves on the low pressure version of the Walrbo 450 (267) and the 274 will give us some pressure head-room if we want it. I'll have 2 tested but basically new pumps for sale if anyone needs a 267 or two! The broken one might get epoxied back together to become a siphon pump for a garage fueling setup if I get bored...

Innovate

I may grab one of those 4-fiddy's though lol. Love the thread and cannot wait to her all together.

Ghost Knight

That's a good idea! I've trashed a couple but could use an electric siphon for my e85 tanks.

Regarding pumps, did you consider the new 525?

EnginerdVT

Funny you mention that. I had forgotten it even existed when I ordered the replacement 274's. For the power level I'm probably going to be at, I don't know that I need them and they do draw about 10-20% more amperage depending on the pressure from the data I saw. Not sure that's worth it as that just creates more heat as well. I'd definitely use a 274 for the primary running pump but was thinking about canceling and ordering 285's for the staged pumps. Another concern is that when the two secondary pumps come on, there is usually a spike in pressure as the regulator... well, regulates. The added flow of the 285's will probably make that worse so if I don't need them it's not advisable to get them I think. Willing to hear advise to talk me into it though

EnginerdVT

Got the new fuel pumps in and setup. Was able to confirm the float was greet working and gassed up the drivers tank and verified tot he ability to build up to 60psi fuel pressure. At that point we sprung a leak inside the crossover and found that one of the plastic fittings was broken and pushing out of the connection and it was spraying inside the crossover. Ordered a new crossover to fix that and keep turning up the pressure before reinstalling the tanks. Since I swapped to a 274 primary and two 285 staged pumps, I also swapped the fuses in the FC3 to 30amps for the two 285 pumps per Fore Innovations recommendation.

EnginerdVT

Finally we have no leaks. Were able to build 80 psi on an off the shelf battery before installing the tanks and crossover, reconnecting and retesting again. All good so the trans and cradle are back in, along with rear suspension and harness. Time to get ready to tackle the Fore wiring with the fuse block and the new battery terminal setup, followed by first start soon and gauges. We also had to modify the ECS torque tamer to get it installed since the lip on the Z06 tunnel was not accounted for. Installed it on top of the tunnel plate and added spacers to help with the new holes and trimmed the corners to fit.

EnginerdVT

Been a long time since an update. Had a baby girl come a few weeks early so I've been not sleeping much and watching lots of videos that are making me wish my car was done. Got the fore system wired up, front coolant and electrical wrapped up, flex fuel sensor done and fluids are going in. Small punch list and then blowing in the tune.

jayyyw

Thanks for this info. Just ordered a triple setup from Fore. I will check to see if I need to change those fuses.
Also, what coolant expansion tank is that?

EnginerdVT

It's a true focus fabrication tank...

https://www.truefocusfab.com/product...-overflow-tank

EnginerdVT

Finally got the car filled with fluids and started. Having to work some issues with my flex fuel sensor being read by the ecm before I will let it run long enough to get a video and warm it up. Andrew and Complete Street Performance were great helping me get the tune setup, blown in and some tweaking to my scanner/log setup in HP tuners. My current issue may be where I installed the Flex Fuel sensor in that it's both post FPR and also vertical which allows a lot more possibility for air in the sensor line and could be causing funny readings. My plan after talking with Dave Steck at DSX is to put it prior to the FPR so it has good pressure and horizontally so it won't get air in it and read well. Hoping that helps fix the issues since the computer got a reading (no CEL) but it just read 0 with E85 in the tank. More to come Saturday when I get in there to remedy and get this thing warmed up hopefully!

EnginerdVT

Fixed the coolant leak (I didn't tighten the front connection under the intake), had to clean and tighten the solenoid connection on the starter and got the gauges working. Ready for a restart and test drive tomorrow!

Pb82 Ronin

I really think you would be better off running the flex sensor the way I mentioned bro. Would help take care of the problem you're having.

Side note...what gauge pods are those?

EnginerdVT

Turns out that the issue is caused by me grabbing the wrong version of the tune. I will get the right one put in tomorrow morning and I'm still considering placing the flex fuel sensor in a different location. I need to go back and look at where you said to put it. My conclusion is that it's obviously mostly dependent on all fuel and no air, and you want the most relevant fuel reading that correlated to what the injectors are seeing. Best would be supply right before the rail, next, pressure side of the FPR after the rail and last is after the FPR but in such a way that it's horizontal and forming an air trap or something after it to avoid the air issue.

Pb82 Ronin

I'll save you from searching for it...basically, you add 2 "Y fittings" at 3 and 12 inches from the FPR feed line. You keep one line of the Y a complete -8 (or -10 can't remember what size you're using) up to the FPR feed. Then the other line can be a -6/-8 or whatever size you want, that includes the flex sensor. Both side of the "Y's" are feeding the engine, but one side (side w/o the sensor) is unrestricted fuel flow. The orifice size of the flex sensor is quite small and restrictive (3/8" IIRC or -6). The Y method allows for less fuel pressure to be run (at HIGH HP levels) at the power levels you're needing, but still recognizes flex fuel usage or other mixtures as originally intended.

(EDIT: -6 line can handle 1000 HP, IIIIFFFFFF you have a huge fuel pump that can provide enough pressure to meet your engines specific BSFC requirement. But if you plan on having full fuel system performance, minimizing restrictions should be of utmost importance.)