Michael_D

I DO NOT DRAG RACE. If I did, and did it often, I would not be doing it with a corvette.

Just getting that out there, because some folks get tunnel vision and forget that there are a few of us weirdos that bought this car and modified the engine, because we enjoy driving it through the twisty bits in the mountains, in traffic......to the store, etc....

Engine is probably around 650 at the crank.

There's nothing wrong with the stock clutch, so far. Seems to be working just fine. 15,000 miles on the car. Problem is, I don't think the OE clutch will hold up a hell of a lot longer. Just cause I don't visit the drag strip with this car, doesn't mean I drive it like a 90YO lady.

I'll be swapping the clutch out myself, in my garage, off jack stands. I do not want to do this twice. I'm being **** about my clutch choice because of that fact.

I thought I had my clutch choice narrowed down to the Mantic 9000 ceramic twin disk, but now I'm doubting that choice. I was chatting with a drive train specialist yesterday, (who sells and installs several brands of clutches for these cars) and he suggested I get user input on the Mantic Organic. He told me has not ever sold or installed one. Everyone who buys the Mantic just goes for the ceramic. They all drag race too..... He thinks the organic might be a better option for me, based on how I use the car, but he has no personal experience with it.

He was also telling me that ceramic clutches tend to grab harder/quicker, and have more of an on/off engagement / disengagement. Great for banging through the gears at the drag strip, but not great for street driving where you need to slip the clutch.

mewalker2

I just did this swap on jack stands a couple months ago. I did the Mantic 9 Cera-metallic that most people go with. I don't drag race mine, it's more for spirited driving and the occasional road course. I understand the organic disk is better with engagement but mine isn't too bad. Great pedal feel with the Mantic. Sounds like the organic disk may be your best option based upon what you want out of the clutch as far as engagement.

atljar

I have the Mantic ceramic too. I do get a little chatter from time to time but it is minor. It is easy to drive and not on/off like many clutches I have driven in the past (ie my old Lt1 Mcleod twin disk).

For driving how you are, I think the organic would be a fine choice.

MikeOC

I am in the same position as you Michael_D, in for updates.

I thought I was set on the 9000 twin ceramic but on thinking more I am wondering if I should go organic. I'm considering the 9000 twin organic or the Monster LT1-S.

Michael_D

The Monster LT1 was on my short list. A friend informed me that he saw two failures. Although, the failures were at a drag strip. But still, not a good indicator of longevity.

Well hopefully someone with the organic will speak up. I do not wish to be the beta tester.

double06

You might want to look at their heavier flywheel. The set up (clutch / flywheel) you are looking at probably weighs 36 pounds or so. They offer a heavier flywheel that bring the set up closer to 55 pounds (stock is 56 pounds) which may help with the off idle at a stop light. You might want to ask if anyone has done that yet.

RamAir972003

If you don't drag race organic is the way to go easier to engage and less chatter.. Last you years or stocker if you like the OEM.

Turbo2L

I went with the cerametallic option and have put about 3k miles on the car this year, 20 1/8th mile runs, and 6 dyno sessions.

NOSZ06

Street driven with comparable HP and I chose the cerametallic. Spirited driven and sometime gets sprayed. My current RAM twin with 57K miles is starting to give way in high gear. Will see if chatter and quick engagement is more prevalent than Ram.

atljar

No need to be the beta per sey. Organic clutches will be able to be slipped easier from a stop and less chatter than the ceramics. Thats a fact no matter the clutch brand.

Clutch holding power is a really simple formula. Your variables are co efficient of friction, clamping force of the pressure plate, and friction surface area. The only variable you are changing on their organic disk vs ceramic/metallic is the coefficient of friction. The organic will have more than ample holding power for you.

Michael_D

Thanks to everyone for the responces.

Out of curiosity, what did you use to support/lower/raisethe cradle assembly? I will need to buy something.

I am doing exaclty that, going with a steel flywheel. Do they have more than one option for steel?

Normally I cling to theory, math, logic….. In this case however, it would be somewhat comforting to know the organic model performs as well as the ceramic. I have not had much luck finding usage reports on it though, as it would appear the ceramic is what the vast majority of folks buy. Wouldn’t be a big deal if swapping a clutch on this car wasn’t such a royal PITA. I’ve swapped dozens in my lifetime, and it’s generally just a 6-8 hour job. Not with this car though…..

MTPZ06

If I were in your shoes, I'd go organic as well. Our driving habits appear to be similar. I'd probably go with a slightly lighter than stock rotating mass (clutch & flywheel), but not too much lighter. Sounds like the only option here is 1lb lighter or 20lbs lighter depending on the flywheel. Given those options, I'd have to take the 1lb lighter route. Cant stand clutches that behave like an on/off switch.

double06

Check there website look for the flywheel with an H after it. I am sure some of the distributors here could help since you need to go through them. You need to specify the flywheel I think the kits automatically come with the lighter flywheel. BTW both flywheels are steel the really light on weighs like 15 pounds but has holes cut in it and the back has been scalloped out. I presume the other flywheel looks like a stock one and is 20 pounds heavier.

Turbo2L

I would go with the heavier flywheel if I did it over. The default option is the lighter of the two. I removed my factory clutch spring after 5 minutes of driving with the Mantic as an FYI. It shifts like butter at 7400 and I've cut numerous 1.35-1.38 60' with it on 275 radials at 530rwhp.

Undy

No drags = organic.

GARY2004Z06

As others have previously stated, organic friction material would provide the ability to slip the clutch easier. Other things to consider are:
Flywheel Weight- It is true that a heavier FW will provide momentum to accelerate the car easier especially with a larger cammed car. However, a lighter flywheel with rev both up and down substantially quicker than a heavier FW and will also put more power to the ground.
Marcel Spring- This will also assist in easier engagement from a start. The downside is that it does add weight and may not shift as clean at extremely high RPMs.
Longevity- In general, organic material does not last as long as other types. Since you will not be launching the car, this may be negligible and should last quite a long time, relatively speaking.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

mewalker2

Just a transmission jack under the rear cradle and used a small dolly/cart to support the torque tube up front and roll it out from under the car in one piece. The car needs to be up off the ground quite a bit though. Had a buddy help me out as he's had his C5 torn down numerous times on jack stands. Just need to be careful as all of the weight will be up front and the car will be nose heavy. Be sure to place a jack or stands under front cradle also.

Michael_D

Thanks. I was wondering if the extra width of the cradle would be too much for a tranny jack. I see that a lot of folks use them though. I just need to pick up a low profile jack, as mine is a telescopic type for use off a lift. And ironically, I do not have a lift.

I was pondering how to balance the car if it were on jack stands, and I dropped the rear cradle and drive train, while I have the front cradle lowered.

I suppose I could just raise the front cradle after I get the bolts out of the bell housing...

I have a couple more weeks before I have to make up my mind. It's pretty obvious from the sage advice offered from many of you, that I should stick with an organic clutch plate.

mewalker2

Let me clarify my earlier post...You'll need 3 small dollies as the trans jack and one dolly under the torque tube may not suffice. The rotors and control arms will be sagging down so put a small dolly under each rotor, one under torque tube, and the trans jack under the cradle. It was easier for us to separate the cradle from the trans/diff/torque tube and move them in two separate units. Working from jack stands, it's just less weight and dangling parts to maneuver at one time. You'll need at least 4 jack stands and a low profile floor jack. Use the floor jack to raise/lower the front cradle and engine so you can get all those bellhousing bolts out. Be mindful not to let the cradle and engine down too far as the intake will be resting on the firewall. Good luck!

rio95

1.35-1.38 60' on a drag radials with a 6 speed and only 530rwhp. How the heck are you manging that??!! Got any videos?

Michael, you should definitely get an organic clutch if you're not going to drag race. Easier to drive, less chatter, easier on the drivetrain, and still plenty of holding capacity. Shoot I'd consider getting another stock one if you run street tires. None of these aftermarket clutches will have the driveability of the stock one and pretty much all dual disks make noise, which is a little annoying on the street.