ExoticMotorClub

Hello everyone,

Recently I had one of the best and worst few months of my auto enthusiast life. To make a long story short I purchased what I thought was a properly built supercharged Z06. Receipts from a reputable company, spoke with the engine builder, had a corvette mechanic look at it, etc. I thought I had done my due diligence. But alas, as you can all imagine a month later there was a catastrophic oil pressure loss and the crank was bent.

I had the car towed to a local speed shop who began to diagnose the problem with the help of a local engine builder. I found out that the motor was rebuilt once prior, because it has aftermarket sleeves already in it. This was not told to me prior to purchase. It also had a different set of heads then I was told were put into it. And the Cam was not designed to be used with forced induction even though the same shop installed them both. A total rebuild will need to be done, as well as some strengthening of the motor to handle the E-Force. I understand there are many issues here, but I want to focus on the future. I need to get my car back on the road within a reasonable budget and time frame. Below is a quote that I was provided. I wanted to get some feedback on the build list and the prices. Also I wanted to see if you guys think I am one of those super "special" guys who continues to boost a LS7 when they obviously just keep blowing up. HAHA!

Thanks for the suggestions and words of encouragement.


What broke:
Crank, 3 rods, will need bored out because of scoring so it will be slightly bigger than 427, 3 main caps broke, metal in the oil, etc.

Upgrades already completed prior to failure:
Edelbrock Supercharger
C&R Denso Ultra High Performance Radiator
ATI 8 Rib Damper
Kooks Headers
Akrapovic exhaust
160 degree thermostat
Brembo Big Brake Kit
CNC Ported Cylinder Heads, Inconel Exhaust Values, Dual Valve Spring Package, Polished Intake valves, replaced Valve Guides
Comp Cam (unknown specs)
Billet-Tech Racing Alternator
Hurst c6 Billet Plus shifter

Unreal

Uhhh, no. That quote isn't even close to good. Where are you located? For that price I would put it on a truck to FSP/RPM or another good shop and you can save money and have a better car.

A stock ls7 can take just about anything an eforce can put out, so I would figure why it failed. I wouldn't be reusing or boring the block either. Lots of overpriced items, lots of fluff in that quote.

JoesC5

What horsepower are you looking for with the E-Force? That would have a major affect on what mods need to be made.

If you are looking at the stock E-Force 657bhp or slightly above(700bhp) you can buy a completely new shortblock for much less, that will handle that horsepower.

Where are you located? Maybe give Lou at LG Motorsports in Plano, TX a call.

Or Texas Speed http://texas-speed.com/p-321-tsp-427...ort-block.aspx

ExoticMotorClub

Car is located in Pittsburgh PA, and remember that I will need to include the cost of shipping it in my quote if I decide to not go local. I wish there was a way to get a competitive quote without the car being there. I called another shop, but they were not interested unless I towed the car there.

My horsepower goal was to reach 750hp, but now it is whatever I can safely make because I am not looking to rebuild a second time. I have been told 650-700 wheel is very possible with the specs listed. And I would be very happy with that.

I was quoted a brand new fully dressed and installed GM LS7 for $17k...but then I would be back to stock.

encasedmetal

that quote is ridiculous. granted there are shops are out there would charge more if you let them. and a centennial edition to boot...

ExoticMotorClub

Those of you that believe the quote is unfair, would you please be more specific? It will help me learn. Thank you.

Unreal

Will do later when not stuck in a meeting at work.

What are you goals? A solid 650rwhp?

ExoticMotorClub

Unreal, yes that is correct my goal is to have a reliable 650-700 whp z06 that I can baby and take to car shows on the weekend until I die. HAHA. But in all reality I am not looking to race, run NOX, or go e85. Just a boosted Z06 with a cam and headers would be ideal, but it needs to be a solid built car and not a glass cannon.

Unreal

That should have been easily doable with just a eforce, headers, and good tune.

No sticky tires? No racing? No reason to do clutch/etc if you aren't going to race. Stock ls7 clutch will work fine.

OhioC5

How much boost were you running? I was just at a local shop, they had a supercharged Z06 that just finished up an engine rebuild. The shop owner told me he's repaired a few boosted Z's. I believe he said the pistons failed on the ones they've rebuilt. Wasn't paying enough attention I guess when he was talking.

dcamick

So...Do you live in the Burgh or were you just visiting??

Unreal

First need to figure out condition of the block. I wouldn't plan on boring it, or even reusing it with the damage done.

For what you want, no need for katech oil pump, $450 lifters, new lash caps, $400 in checking heads is overpriced. No reason to mess with pushrods unless they need to be. No need for ls2 chain tension unless needed. No reason for a adj timing set. $2800 is high for a rebuild for just labor.

No reason to upgrade dry sump for a street car, and newer 08+ already have larger sump. A good twin disc with new slave/etc is $1200-1500, $2k is high. Injectors are overpriced. Fuel pump should be no where near that unless that includes lines and FPR/etc. No reason to mess with master unless it failed. Mighty Mouse cans range from $120-170 FULL PRICE off his site. So $225 is just mark up for no reason.

$500 in coolant/fluids/plugs is also crazy. Maybe $200 in all that and that is generous.

50 hours in labor, uhh, seems high.

ExoticMotorClub

I am located in Pittsburgh. Thank you for the suggestions and comments.

The engine shop has already looked at the engine and believes it is ok to reuse, would you mind explaining why I would not want to reuse it?

I agree with your comments about the hours, 50 seemed high to me when I already paid them 25 hours labor to remove the motor.

ExoticMotorClub

The dry sump upgrade is because I need to replace the oil cooler and lines because of metal being in the system. I was told that it is about the same price up get an upgraded one then buy a GM one. For a similar price I thought the upgrade was acceptable because it comes powder coated and I will be showing my car. I was also told the whole system needs replaced so that metal doesn't get into the rebuilt motor. True?

Michael_D

No reason to not reuse the block, if it checks out OK. You said it was re-sleeved at one point, do you know what sleeves?

It takes me a solid 8 hours to clean up a block using a CV616 with torque plates installed. Longer if I install the bell housing and circulate water through it. Another full day to assemble the engine. Sometimes two or three, depending on the build. The prices for some items are a bit high, while others are low. Fifty hours does not seem all that high to me if that includes install.

I'd flush the crap out of the oil tank and replace rubber parts. Don't know about the fuel pump, never touched or priced one. 1900 seems pretty expensive though.

I am a bit confused though. You are in PA, but the post is about Phoenix? Where is the car?

Unreal

I was just trying to point out make sure you really can resuse it.

You could order a built done ERL block for $5800, and that would be a better setup, for $1500 less than what you are paying, and just use your block as a core. Comes with ARP hardware, billet caps, etc. The motor stuff isn't that bad, just a lot of extras that are not needed that should be spent elsewhere. Put a stock oil pump on it, and spend the money on a radiator instead. Also no reason to run a $2000 fuel pump if you are just doing 650rwhp unless you are planning on flex fuel/e85.

ExoticMotorClub

I have already installed a C&R Denso Ultra High Performance Radiator so I am not sure I need that upgraded, let me know what you think.

I currently am running the stock fuel pump "boost a pump" is what I was told it is called. The engine builder said that could fail and cause issues. Is there a cheaper alternative? or is he just being over cautious?

The ERL block sounds like a good idea. Could you expand on that in more detail? I see many choices on their website. Would I need just the short block? I know enough about the motor to talk intelligently, but getting more technical on the build list exceeds my knowledge. I appreciate the help.

ExoticMotorClub

Thank you for your comment. I am located in PA, the Phoenix is just some alliteration I used to name my car. The original work was done at a shop in Phoenix, but I am not here to stir up trouble. I just want to fix my car.

Michael_D

I was just wondering about locations to give you some options that wouldn't cost you your first born.

If you could find out more about the sleeves, that would help. Not many places do that well. And some are thicker than others.

ExoticMotorClub

I will call and ask for more detail. All I was told is they are "$4000 sleeves" which could mean anything.