[Z06] MTBSully's 08 Z06 Winter 2017 Build (E85, MSD, Heads Etc)
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
MTBSully's 08 Z06 Winter 2017 Build (E85, MSD, Heads Etc)
Bought my 2008 Black 3LZ Z06 in April with 11k miles on it. Im coming from my 2004 Cobra with 76mm turbo and e85 making 805 at the wheels.
The corvette was mostly stock appearance wise with the following mods:
Callaway Honker
WCCH Stage 2 Heads w/ BTR dual springs
GT-20 Cam
PFadt 1 7/8 LTs w/ catted X pipe
Pretty much it. I decided to leave it as is mechanically for the summer with exception of Corsa axleback and deleting the cats so that I wouldnt miss any crusing time this summer. The car put down 558 with the previous owner and 556 a couple days after I took delivery to get the tune checked. I ran a best of 10.8 @133 with an OK 1.7 60ft my 2nd track outing this fall. Here is a few pics the day I got her as well as the dyno sheet.
Appearance wise, I changed the following:
-Paint has been polished and sealed
-MGW Shifter installed
-Removed tail light blackouts and built and wired 1 off custom tail lights. Single LED halo ring.
-Wheels faces painted gloss black (hate flat black wheels, they always look dirty)
- ZR1 splitter, skirts, and spoiler painted and installed
-Various trim pieces painted gloss black (a pillars, door pulls, rear diffuser, grille)
-Windows tinted 5% on sides and rear with 35% on windshield
Older pic before ZR1 parts, but after paint correction
Car looks insane IMO. The ZR1 parts really set it off.
Couple shots of the drag wheels and tires. Dark stars with 17" hoosiers and M&H front runners. Those nitto invos def wouldnt cut it at the track. Looks pretty sinister to boot!
One last bath before hibernation!
So that brings us to this winter. The purpose of this thread is to allow members to follow my progress, but also offer suggestions, and answer the many questions I am likely to have. I built my turbo cobra from stock, but my last LS engine was my 2000 camaro SS back in 2010. I did heads on that, but no cam. Either way, I consider my self mechanically inclined. I do all of the work on all of my vehicles. Anyways, my rough plans are as follows:
Definite:
Tony Mamo Ported MSD
NW 102mm TB
Mill heads .030-.040" (still up in the air here as well)
E85 Flex fuel (pieced kit together myself)
Possible:
Bigger cam (low lash solid roller, or stay hydraulic?)
2" ARH headers
Aftermarket heads? (trick flow genX?)
I would like to be in the 620-650hp range if possible (all dynos read different...). The current cam setup surges a decent amount around slow parking lots and in 6th below 70mph, so I am used to that. Dont mind surge. The car is far from a daily driver. Street warrior and cruiser.
So, lets start the build. Ripped the cover off after work today and installed my e85 parts. Just need to grab some wire from work tomorrow to splice into the connector and i'm done. Really pretty easy job. hardest part was wiring the connector since I did not remove or even loosen the fender.
All the parts!
Blank canvas:
Stock Fuel feed setup
5 minutes later I had the flex fuel sensor plumbed in
Moving onto wiring. Jacked up and removing wheel and fender liner. Dont mind the rusty rotors. Washed her and put right in the garage, what can you do.
Brains:
X38 Connector removed
Pin 40 tapped and terminal inserted.
Put everything back together and cleaned up. Thats enough for tonight. Walbro 450 install coming this weekend. Stay tuned.
The corvette was mostly stock appearance wise with the following mods:
Callaway Honker
WCCH Stage 2 Heads w/ BTR dual springs
GT-20 Cam
PFadt 1 7/8 LTs w/ catted X pipe
Pretty much it. I decided to leave it as is mechanically for the summer with exception of Corsa axleback and deleting the cats so that I wouldnt miss any crusing time this summer. The car put down 558 with the previous owner and 556 a couple days after I took delivery to get the tune checked. I ran a best of 10.8 @133 with an OK 1.7 60ft my 2nd track outing this fall. Here is a few pics the day I got her as well as the dyno sheet.
Appearance wise, I changed the following:
-Paint has been polished and sealed
-MGW Shifter installed
-Removed tail light blackouts and built and wired 1 off custom tail lights. Single LED halo ring.
-Wheels faces painted gloss black (hate flat black wheels, they always look dirty)
- ZR1 splitter, skirts, and spoiler painted and installed
-Various trim pieces painted gloss black (a pillars, door pulls, rear diffuser, grille)
-Windows tinted 5% on sides and rear with 35% on windshield
Older pic before ZR1 parts, but after paint correction
Car looks insane IMO. The ZR1 parts really set it off.
Couple shots of the drag wheels and tires. Dark stars with 17" hoosiers and M&H front runners. Those nitto invos def wouldnt cut it at the track. Looks pretty sinister to boot!
One last bath before hibernation!
So that brings us to this winter. The purpose of this thread is to allow members to follow my progress, but also offer suggestions, and answer the many questions I am likely to have. I built my turbo cobra from stock, but my last LS engine was my 2000 camaro SS back in 2010. I did heads on that, but no cam. Either way, I consider my self mechanically inclined. I do all of the work on all of my vehicles. Anyways, my rough plans are as follows:
Definite:
Tony Mamo Ported MSD
NW 102mm TB
Mill heads .030-.040" (still up in the air here as well)
E85 Flex fuel (pieced kit together myself)
Possible:
Bigger cam (low lash solid roller, or stay hydraulic?)
2" ARH headers
Aftermarket heads? (trick flow genX?)
I would like to be in the 620-650hp range if possible (all dynos read different...). The current cam setup surges a decent amount around slow parking lots and in 6th below 70mph, so I am used to that. Dont mind surge. The car is far from a daily driver. Street warrior and cruiser.
So, lets start the build. Ripped the cover off after work today and installed my e85 parts. Just need to grab some wire from work tomorrow to splice into the connector and i'm done. Really pretty easy job. hardest part was wiring the connector since I did not remove or even loosen the fender.
All the parts!
Blank canvas:
Stock Fuel feed setup
5 minutes later I had the flex fuel sensor plumbed in
Moving onto wiring. Jacked up and removing wheel and fender liner. Dont mind the rusty rotors. Washed her and put right in the garage, what can you do.
Brains:
X38 Connector removed
Pin 40 tapped and terminal inserted.
Put everything back together and cleaned up. Thats enough for tonight. Walbro 450 install coming this weekend. Stay tuned.
Last edited by MTBSully; 01-06-2017 at 11:43 AM.
The following users liked this post:
IMXCITD (02-13-2017)
#2
Beautiful car man. I agree with you that flat black wheels always look dirty.
How difficult was it to do the halo tails and what kit did you use? I would like to do the same mod but I am unsure how to go about it, or how difficult it is. If you have any interest in doing work like that then I may be inclined to send them to you?
I love those deep dish 360's? That is easily my favorite wheel for these cars.
sub'd for more updates.
How difficult was it to do the halo tails and what kit did you use? I would like to do the same mod but I am unsure how to go about it, or how difficult it is. If you have any interest in doing work like that then I may be inclined to send them to you?
I love those deep dish 360's? That is easily my favorite wheel for these cars.
sub'd for more updates.
#3
Team Owner
#4
Le Mans Master
Looking great !! Where do you find soap that lathers that much ?? J/K
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Beautiful car man. I agree with you that flat black wheels always look dirty.
How difficult was it to do the halo tails and what kit did you use? I would like to do the same mod but I am unsure how to go about it, or how difficult it is. If you have any interest in doing work like that then I may be inclined to send them to you?
I love those deep dish 360's? That is easily my favorite wheel for these cars.
sub'd for more updates.
How difficult was it to do the halo tails and what kit did you use? I would like to do the same mod but I am unsure how to go about it, or how difficult it is. If you have any interest in doing work like that then I may be inclined to send them to you?
I love those deep dish 360's? That is easily my favorite wheel for these cars.
sub'd for more updates.
Halo tails I built myself using some LED rings and some load resistors and diodes. They work great so far.
Lol thats actually my painter. We were doing the camshaft position sensor on his supercharged c5z
#7
What cam were you looking into? Check my thread out. Im doing a lot of similar things u plan on doing.
When you get your new wheels are you planning on ditching the drag stars?! If so lemme know
When you get your new wheels are you planning on ditching the drag stars?! If so lemme know
Last edited by Schred86; 01-05-2017 at 08:04 PM.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Finished the wiring tonight. Really took my time to make everything appear factory. All wires are fully loomed and follow factory looms especially the signal wire which runs behind the motor. The ground wire I was able to run in a factory loom. Looks pretty clean! Fired the car up, no leaks. All good.
While tucking the looms i also found what appears to be a speed bleeder tucker behind the intake manifold. Did a little reading on them, what are they good for? Seems some people use them to change clutch fluid but it seems more complex than the ranger method which I have always used.
#9
Safety Car
Not sure on cam yet. Still researching. I'll check your thread out. I am keeping the dark stars. I sold my street wheels (360 forged) and will be replacing them.
Finished the wiring tonight. Really took my time to make everything appear factory. All wires are fully loomed and follow factory looms especially the signal wire which runs behind the motor. The ground wire I was able to run in a factory loom. Looks pretty clean! Fired the car up, no leaks. All good.
While tucking the looms i also found what appears to be a speed bleeder tucker behind the intake manifold. Did a little reading on them, what are they good for? Seems some people use them to change clutch fluid but it seems more complex than the ranger method which I have always used.
Finished the wiring tonight. Really took my time to make everything appear factory. All wires are fully loomed and follow factory looms especially the signal wire which runs behind the motor. The ground wire I was able to run in a factory loom. Looks pretty clean! Fired the car up, no leaks. All good.
While tucking the looms i also found what appears to be a speed bleeder tucker behind the intake manifold. Did a little reading on them, what are they good for? Seems some people use them to change clutch fluid but it seems more complex than the ranger method which I have always used.
Where did you pull power from for the FF sensor? I used a coil wire but just seeing where others did it since I'm not thrilled with the way the wires look under my hood.
#11
the speed bleeder is way better than the ranger method. just pull it under the car by driver side header by the front wheel. it should have a one way check bleeder on it. .so when u pump the pedal it will push fluid out but not suck air back in. crack it loose about 1/4-1/2 turn and pump. can easily be done by yourself. you might have to pull the pedal up in between pumps. make sure your reservoir stays full. I usually run 2-3 reservoirs through.
#12
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Its a remote clutch bleeder. The ranger method is probably easier for quick fluid swaps but it is a nice thing to have.
Where did you pull power from for the FF sensor? I used a coil wire but just seeing where others did it since I'm not thrilled with the way the wires look under my hood.
Where did you pull power from for the FF sensor? I used a coil wire but just seeing where others did it since I'm not thrilled with the way the wires look under my hood.
the speed bleeder is way better than the ranger method. just pull it under the car by driver side header by the front wheel. it should have a one way check bleeder on it. .so when u pump the pedal it will push fluid out but not suck air back in. crack it loose about 1/4-1/2 turn and pump. can easily be done by yourself. you might have to pull the pedal up in between pumps. make sure your reservoir stays full. I usually run 2-3 reservoirs through.
#13
Team Owner
#16
Racer
#18
I used a switched power source in the fuse box. Used one of the add-a-circuit things.
Thanks man. I may make a few sets this winter since people really seem to like them.
Cool. I assume you just keep the reservoir full? Also likely good for removing air pockets, if any?
Thanks man. I may make a few sets this winter since people really seem to like them.
Cool. I assume you just keep the reservoir full? Also likely good for removing air pockets, if any?