Z06-HEC*

Any DIY for changing Calipers?
Just ordered some powder coated sets from TPS and they do not provide instructions.
I searched the DIY and see pads but not the calipers themselves. I assume i need to bleed the system and all....
Anyone have a good step by step?
Or is this something i should bring to a shop and pay? If so whats that run?

LMBTom

It is basically the same steps as changing pads (if you're doing the remove-whole-caliper method), except that you also need to disconnect, and then re-attach the brake lines. Here's the basics:

1. Clamp the brake line right before it enters the caliper (use something like vice grips with rubber hose around the ends to prevent damage to the brake line). This helps prevent brake fluid leaks and draining the brake master cylinder while you work.

2. Follow the standard steps for removing pads and calipers in other guides.

3. Disconnect the brake line from the old caliper and attach it to the new caliper. Clean up any brake fluid that spills on painted surfaces immediately.

4. Put the pads and caliper back on. Repeat three more times for the other calipers.

5. Bleed the whole brake system using a pressure bleeder, or if you have a friend, do it the old-fashioned way.

6. Pump brakes until firm and top off brake fluid before you start driving.

AzDave47

I don't see the sticky DIY on the calipers.

Are they OEM calipers front and rear, just powder coated? I will presume Yes and that you will use the OEM hard brake lines.

READ all instructions Before beginning
1.Jack the car up and place safely on jack stands.
2. remove the lugs and wheels (if you don't have an impact wrench, loosen the lugs before you get the car off the ground).
3. I like to minimize brake fluid loss, so I set up like to bleed a caliper, loosen the bleed screw and then use a 2x4 to hold the brake pedal down to the floor. This will help minimize fluid loss and the chance of getting air in to the system. Close the bleed screw.
4. use an open end wrench to loosen the brake line banjo bolt, then tighten back "some". This will ease it's removal after you do step 5.
5. Remove the caliper with a breaker bar, socket wrench and 21 MM socket. Sometimes a 3" socket extension is helpful. Support the caliper so it does not hang on the brake line.
6. Get the new caliper handy. Undo the banjo bolt from your old caliper and put it on the new caliper. It is best if you use two new copper washers, but not usually required. Make note of the general orientation of the banjo bolt to the caliper. Firm up the banjo bolt, but you will need to confirm the brake line orientation once the caliper is back on so it does not need to be fully tight yet. Wipe down any brake fluid
7. Install your brake pads. If you need to retract the pistons, use two 6"
c-clamps preferably with plastic feet so not to damage the power coat finish.
8. Cleen the rotors of any grease (I use BrakeKleen.) Install the calipers/pads back on the rotors with the two 21 MM bolts. If the rotor retaining clips have been removed off the studs, use two wheel nuts to keep the rotor from wobbling during the reinstall. Firm up the 21MM bolts.
9. now check that the brake line is still in the same orientation as when it was removed. This is important as if it is not it could come in contact with the wheel or rub against the shock tower, neither good. For some added protection you could tie-wrap 3-5" of rubber tubing near where it might rub, but the best install has them located as they were OEM to avoid any rubbing. Once they are properly oriented you can torque the banjo bolt to 33#-ft.
10. check the brake fluid level, fill if needed and then bleed that brake and tighten the bleed screw to 106#-in
11. check the brake fluid level and fill as needed
12. repeat step 4-11 for the other calipers.
13, Make sure there are no brake fluid leaks or weepage, that the brake pedal is firm and appears to be normal. Fix if any problems are indicated. Verify brake fluid level is full.
14. Torque the two 21MM bolts at each caliper to 129#-ft.
15. Reinstall the wheels, torque to 100#-ft. and get the car back on the ground.
16. Cautiously start the car, check the brake pedal that it feels normal and then cautiously drive it, frequently checking that the brakes work. If you are using new brake pads, you will need to bed them in by following the pad manufacturer's process.

If you are installing braided Stainless brake lines at the same time, be aware that GM way over tightens the hard line flair nuts and usually distorts the threads. Some forum members have not been able to install them without cross threading. I was able to get mine installed and have had no problem, but I had to be very careful threading them into the new lines and on a couple I had to tighten way beyond what should normally be required to get them to stop weeping.
My usual bleeding process is RR, LR, RF, LF, thus starting with the brake furthest away from the master cylinder.

I did this all from (old) memory, but reread it thru and think it covers everything.Enjoy the beautiful new brakes.