NachosZO6

I'm looking for some guidance. I went racing this weekend and the trans started acting up. I ran the car about 15 times. On the last 3 passes, I couldn't get it into 4th gear at high rpms. So I called it quits and drove home. The car shifted fine the whole 2 hour drive. It did feel a bit notchy, but still went into every gear with no grinding.

I let the car sit for 2 days and I just took it out. Every gear is a bit notchy now but every gear engages under normal driving. At high RPM 4th gear still won't go in.

So my question is, is this an indication the clutch is going or are the trans syncros? I'm leaning towards the clutch but wanted to know if there's a way to tell for certain without pulling the trans.

Clutch is about 4 years old, Mcleod RXT. Trans is a TR6060 out of 2010 Grand Sport that had 20k miles when I bought and I've only put about 3k on it. Shifted like butter before and had it in car about 6 months.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

don37

How about purging the clutch fluid, fill then bleed?

NachosZO6

I don't have a bleed line. Is there a way to do it without it?

don37

Yes. allot of work. the bleed screw is located top of slave cylinder.

NachosZO6

Ok, that could be an option. The fluid is about a month old. I had it flushed before I started racing. What am I looking for?

Turbokraft

Does the trans feel notchy with the engine not running?

NachosZO6

Transmission is smooth with car off.

Brandon619

This is a great method for cleaning your clutch fluid with out a bleeder line.

Undy

Jack the rear up. Start it up with it in first and the clutch depressed. If the rear wheels are turning then the clutch isn't releasing. If so, the clutch isn't fully releasing. It could be the clutch MC, slave or clutch pressure plate.

tdeweese

Try jacking the car up in the rear, put the car in gear and rev it up to 3-4K and see if the wheels spin. Try to repeat the process in all gears to see if the clutch is doing its job. Your tires should not spin when clutch is engaged, if it does maybe clutch related issue.

NachosZO6

Lifted car, revd up to 3500 and shifted into every gear. Tires didn't move 1 inch.

Z06-HEC*

Following along...
Mine does the exact same thing...
When off it slides into every gear like butter.
High RPMS i have the same issue into 3.
Often going into Reverse its notchy as well.
I just did a clutch upgrade and so far am hating it and still feels notchy

I also asked them to do a trans flush and they reported all looked clean no metal in there.

NachosZO6

I do the syringe method all the time and I make sure my fluid is always clean, so I don't think that's it. I spoke to RPM and they told me they think the clutch is going and the syncro in 4th gear is going bad already and that's why it's the gear that won't engage at high rpm. They recommend a new clutch and rebuilt trans. FML.

tdeweese

I have a RPM trans and a clutch that works correctly and I have high rpm shifting issues going into 2nd. So, I am pulling the trans again and sending back to RPM. I think there is more to these type of issues than just new clutches and giving RPM a lot of money. ???

FNBADAZ06

Ugh....that sucks.

Landru

Sounds like good advice, might be 2 things going south w/ 2 symptoms interpreted as 1. IF wheels didn't move, wouldn't it mean clutch was slipping? One or more syncs going south isn't uncommon, either.
While it hasn't happened on my '08 Z w/ 53K, it did on my '06 Z51 w/ 8K. B2B paid, otherwise a big hit to my wallet, over $2K IIRC.

NemeZ

I would try the Tick Adjustable Master before removing the trans.

AzDave47

Sorry to hear of your troubles, Nacho. No thoughts to add to what has already been said, though.

Sounds like Dec. 17 No-Fly Zone event is out for you?

NachosZO6

Can you educate me on this? I've never looked into this before.

Thanks Dave. Yea it sounds like I'm down for a bit. Sucks it's right in the middle of racing season here. Hope to have it up pretty soon. I can drive it just fine but can't race, and who wants that?

NemeZ

Short story: GM put in a shitty MC(master cylinder) that usually either fails or just doesn't disengage the clutch properly at high rpms. I heard they did it so you wouldn't damage the trans. So the MC would go out and they would replace that under warranty instead of the whole trans. Many folks have had great luck with the Tick unit. When my MC failed at 48k I went straight to the Tick MC. No problems at all, shifts feel great. Any more questions let me know!