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[Z06] Msd engine sound?

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Old 02-05-2017, 01:39 PM
  #21  
outhouse
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Originally Posted by ChevyCobb
and hope this is the case.


It is the case.
Old 02-05-2017, 02:13 PM
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Tried to get a video of it from inside. Exhaust flaps were closed so I could try and distinguish the sound.
https://youtu.be/5z7USautXwQ

I can hear it better in the video with headphones.

Last edited by ChevyCobb; 02-05-2017 at 02:18 PM.
Old 02-06-2017, 09:24 PM
  #23  
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Could you guys actually get to the #12 & #14 bolts? I cannot get anything back there to check to torque. Can't see reaching them unless I dropped the cradle.
Thanks
Old 02-06-2017, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ZO6FL
Could you guys actually get to the #12 & #14 bolts? I cannot get anything back there to check to torque. Can't see reaching them unless I dropped the cradle.
Thanks

Take the manifold out, it needs to come out anyway to retighten the clamshell bolts after a few hours.


They will all be loose
Old 02-06-2017, 11:36 PM
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Yep, going to start taking mine back out tomorrow, so im curious to see how many are loose. Still have a week until tuning. Gives me a little more time to clean things up in there.
Old 02-07-2017, 07:58 AM
  #26  
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On the back bolt there the fat washer seems to be the main rubbing culprit. Could be more things on other cars just on mime. I put a thick but smaller diameter washer on mine. On the back bolts I went to the hardware store and got these small head hex head bolts. Normally on a 6 mm bolt the top is a 10 mm head these are 8 mm head which gives you a little more room to work with and is also a smaller wrench. The alan heads are nice but like you said good luck getting back there.
Old 02-07-2017, 10:07 PM
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So how thick is the material on the firewall/cowl here? (Circled area where it was rubbing)

Last edited by ChevyCobb; 02-07-2017 at 10:25 PM.
Old 02-07-2017, 10:57 PM
  #28  
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Yours rubbed like mine.


You can go 1/8" ish size of a dime, if you went through it would be a pin hole and you could fill it with 5 min epoxy worse case. Just don't go to far.


Its better to dremel the washer and allen bolt for clearance.


I put grease on the allen bolt and refit the intake until I was sure I have room.


For others here, how many of the clamshell bolts were loose?
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:17 PM
  #29  
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about half of them
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:20 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ChevyCobb
about half of them


Check your outer easy ones after running it a week. The second time usually gets them if you tighten the crap out of them.
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:32 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by outhouse
Check your outer easy ones after running it a week. The second time usually gets them if you tighten the crap out of them.
Will do. I like the idea of the shorter head on that #12 bolt. Will pick one up tomorrow.
Looks like I went a little heavy on the locktite on a couple of bolts. I'll probably want to figure out the safest way to get that off the threads before reusing.
Old 02-07-2017, 11:45 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ChevyCobb
Will do. I like the idea of the shorter head on that #12 bolt. Will pick one up tomorrow.
Looks like I went a little heavy on the locktite on a couple of bolts. I'll probably want to figure out the safest way to get that off the threads before reusing.
Acetone should do it. You can also try holding the bolt in a pair of pliers and heating it gently with a torch. Dremel and a wire wheel also works. Or just use some small hand tools to get it out, being careful not the damage the threads or you will have to chase them.
Old 02-08-2017, 12:03 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ChevyCobb
. I'll probably want to figure out the safest way to get that off the threads before reusing.


If its blue, keep it on and just add a little new wet when retightening.


Hopefully its blue
Old 02-08-2017, 10:57 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by outhouse
If its blue, keep it on and just add a little new wet when retightening.


Hopefully its blue
Yes I was sure to use blue.

As far as that #12 bolt. You took a dremel to the top area so the bolt sits lower?
Old 02-08-2017, 11:31 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ChevyCobb
Yes I was sure to use blue.

As far as that #12 bolt. You took a dremel to the top area so the bolt sits lower?


With the dremel just flatten the washer on the outside, takes a little trick to tighten it and have it point to the back, but it can be done.


Then just dremel the outside top edge of the allen head on its side facing the firewall so you have a little more clearance.


have not heard mine since it happened, and I had the exact size as your mark in the exact location.
Old 09-22-2018, 10:52 PM
  #36  
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Hey guys I know this is an old thread. I wish I would have seen this before I installed my MSD. I believe mine is just barely touching the firewall. I have Katech valve covers on my car. That said I’m try to see which is the easiest way to fix this problem.
1. I’ll have to take my valve covers off in order to get the intake off?
2. Drop the cross member so can get access to the #12 bolt?
also how long is that #12 bolt? Is it the same size as the other ones?
Old 09-23-2018, 07:40 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by NVNO1
Hey guys I know this is an old thread. I wish I would have seen this before I installed my MSD. I believe mine is just barely touching the firewall. I have Katech valve covers on my car. That said I’m try to see which is the easiest way to fix this problem.
1. I’ll have to take my valve covers off in order to get the intake off?
2. Drop the cross member so can get access to the #12 bolt?
also how long is that #12 bolt? Is it the same size as the other ones?
1. No.
2. Same size. The bolts themselves are not numbered. It is the location that the bolt goes in that is numbered. It is the #12 location that causes the problem. If you are removing the manifold you don't need to touch the cradle.

To remove it, you need to disconnect the CAI. Then remove the throttle body. Then disconnect all of the hose connections (front and rear of manifold), the brake booster, the main fuel line, the wiring harness' at the fuel rails and the electrical connections at the injectors. Then remove the bolts from the manifold that holds the manifold to the head. Be careful as you remove it as the oil pressure sending unit is at the back of the manifold and can get caught on hoses back there and bust off.

Once you get it off, you need to replace that bolt with a button head bolt and a smaller washer or get your dremel out and start grinding. It is a perimeter pinch bolt (in location #12) that holds the top half of the manifold to the bottom half. Then reinstall the manifold and associated components. It isn't as hard as it sounds and just takes a little bit of time. All you are doing is unbolting and disconnecting things. Take your time and label the connections as you remove them.

Last edited by Mordeth; 09-23-2018 at 07:41 AM.



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