[Z06] Drive Shaft Shop prop shaft Uprade?
12-23-2016, 07:55 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Drive Shaft Shop prop shaft Uprade?
I have my entire drive line out currently and was rebuilding my torque tube with new bearings and couplers just because its out. What is the limit on the stock drive shaft and has anyone had experience good or bad with the 3" drive shaft shop "upgrade" over stock? My car is a 2009 with a fairly aggressive 610-620 RWHP normally aspirated. Thank you forum friends!
12-23-2016, 10:42 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
I was also contemplating this "upgrade" when I do my clutch, but I think the concensus was to upgrade to the better couplers(either ZR1 or the BMW couplers) and new bearings and be done. Plenty of guys running around with a LOT more than 600whp on the stock prop shaft. I know several local guys running 750+ whp on supercharged grand sports on completely stock torque tubes, and they beat on their cars.
12-23-2016, 12:38 PM
#3
Team Owner
I know several people at 800-1000hp on stock shafts with upgraded couplers.
Same with DSS, PST, others.
My DSS aluminum shaft broke at 1/2 mile event. Replaced with a carbon one. So far so good but it does vibrate at ~2k rpm.
For <800rwhp I would not do anything besides inspect and replace with ZR1 couplers if needed.
Same with DSS, PST, others.
My DSS aluminum shaft broke at 1/2 mile event. Replaced with a carbon one. So far so good but it does vibrate at ~2k rpm.
For <800rwhp I would not do anything besides inspect and replace with ZR1 couplers if needed.
12-23-2016, 03:11 PM
#4
Supporting Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08
I would leave the stock shaft (lower Moment of Inertia compared to larger aluminum or carbon fiber shaft) and upgrade the rear coupler to solid, but leave the rubber one up front to help with any lateral run out the assembly might have.
I am NOT a fan of the DSS poly couplers. I went through a handful of them, trying to find one that would not cause run out on the input shaft before giving up. The input shaft should only have .005" or less of run out if you don't want it to vibrate. Every single DSS coupler I tried had .015"+ and there was no way to clock the bolt holes to make it any less.
On my car, using the LG billet coupler on the back and a stock rubber one up front allowed for only .002+ of run out.
I am NOT a fan of the DSS poly couplers. I went through a handful of them, trying to find one that would not cause run out on the input shaft before giving up. The input shaft should only have .005" or less of run out if you don't want it to vibrate. Every single DSS coupler I tried had .015"+ and there was no way to clock the bolt holes to make it any less.
On my car, using the LG billet coupler on the back and a stock rubber one up front allowed for only .002+ of run out.
Last edited by RichieRichZ06; 01-05-2017 at 11:26 AM.
12-23-2016, 06:53 PM
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
I would leave the stock shaft (lower Moment of Inertia compared to larger aluminum or carbon fiber shaft) and upgrade the rear coupler to solid, but leave the rubber one up front to help with any lateral run out the assembly might have.
I am NOT a fan of the DSS poly couplers. I went through a handful of them, trying to find one that would not cause run out on the input shaft before giving up. The input shaft should only have .005" or less of run out if you don't want it to vibrate. Every single DSS coupler I tried had .015"+ and there was no way to clock the bolt holes to make it any less.
On my car, using the LG billet coupler on the back and a stock rubber one up front allowed for only .002+ of run out.
FWIW, Every single C6 uses the same rubber coupler. A 2005 A4 LS2 and a 2013 ZR1 use the same parts.
I am NOT a fan of the DSS poly couplers. I went through a handful of them, trying to find one that would not cause run out on the input shaft before giving up. The input shaft should only have .005" or less of run out if you don't want it to vibrate. Every single DSS coupler I tried had .015"+ and there was no way to clock the bolt holes to make it any less.
On my car, using the LG billet coupler on the back and a stock rubber one up front allowed for only .002+ of run out.
FWIW, Every single C6 uses the same rubber coupler. A 2005 A4 LS2 and a 2013 ZR1 use the same parts.
12-23-2016, 06:55 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
I was also contemplating this "upgrade" when I do my clutch, but I think the concensus was to upgrade to the better couplers(either ZR1 or the BMW couplers) and new bearings and be done. Plenty of guys running around with a LOT more than 600whp on the stock prop shaft. I know several local guys running 750+ whp on supercharged grand sports on completely stock torque tubes, and they beat on their cars.
12-24-2016, 12:07 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by tdeweese
I believe that is what the guys at RPM told me, not 100% though.
12-24-2016, 11:43 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
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rjacobs (12-25-2016)
01-03-2017, 11:57 PM
#13
Racer
I put a 3.5" DSS coupler-less shaft in when I did my clutch, I love it....The shifts feel solid and firm, not one single vibration at any rpm. Would highly recommend.
05-10-2017, 03:35 PM
#14
Digging this up from the past as I'm at a crossroads as far as repairing/upgrading my current prop shaft and giubo setup.
I have a 2006 (570-600 RWHP, 500 RWTQ) that ate the front giubo (then consequently, the rear), and if I go the ZR1 giubo option that option will require an aftermarket prop shaft that is shorter than my factory unit. I'm seeing much mixed review on the coupler-less prop shafts...more negative (with respect to vibration) than positive. I'm seeing a number of drag and road racers using factory prop shafts with a mixture of solid billet rear couplers from LG, matched with a rubber front. That seems like a solid compromise but wanted some followup feedback to those who've gone that route. Thanks in advance for any feedback you can supply.
I have a 2006 (570-600 RWHP, 500 RWTQ) that ate the front giubo (then consequently, the rear), and if I go the ZR1 giubo option that option will require an aftermarket prop shaft that is shorter than my factory unit. I'm seeing much mixed review on the coupler-less prop shafts...more negative (with respect to vibration) than positive. I'm seeing a number of drag and road racers using factory prop shafts with a mixture of solid billet rear couplers from LG, matched with a rubber front. That seems like a solid compromise but wanted some followup feedback to those who've gone that route. Thanks in advance for any feedback you can supply.
05-10-2017, 04:41 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
There are a few ways to go and keep the factory prop shaft.
I believe there is a BMW(mercedes????) one some people are using. Not sure its an upgrade over a factory coupler though.
Drive Shaft Shop has a nicer poly coupler.
Prothane has a poly coupler as well.
And also as you know there are a few billet couplers out there.
IMO as far as I would go would be to a poly coupler, and most likely the DSS version.
I believe there is a BMW(mercedes????) one some people are using. Not sure its an upgrade over a factory coupler though.
Drive Shaft Shop has a nicer poly coupler.
Prothane has a poly coupler as well.
And also as you know there are a few billet couplers out there.
IMO as far as I would go would be to a poly coupler, and most likely the DSS version.
05-10-2017, 05:57 PM
#16
Team Owner
If its me, I go rubber up front (perhaps the BMW unit) and solid in the back. I'm not a fan of Poly for uses such as this. Poly cold-flows, which essentially means it distorts under pressure and becomes deformed over time, as it lacks the elasticity of rubber in order to return to its normal shape.
Last edited by MTPZ06; 05-10-2017 at 05:58 PM.
