[Z06] New z owner Need help with valve issue
01-01-2017, 09:59 AM
#21
Team Owner
You can NOT check the valves with the heads on the car. You do not have a problem. The internet has you crazy.
Good luck and if you want new heads then just say it but you don't need them for a design or production flaw based off of checking the valves with the heads on the car.
Of course no one here listens and many will chastise me...
Good luck and if you want new heads then just say it but you don't need them for a design or production flaw based off of checking the valves with the heads on the car.
Of course no one here listens and many will chastise me...
01-01-2017, 11:56 AM
#22
We are the only ones using our Proprietary Moldstar90 valve guides.
We do sell our Moldstar90 guides out right but the final honing of them is different than any guide material most have ever seen or worked with.
Moldstar90 work hardens over time so the longer you use it the stronger it gets. The more you beat on it the better it is. Moldstar90 is top tier stuff!!! With that said you have to take the "work hardening" into consideration when machining/ final honing them. In all honesty it is probably easier to send in a set of heads to us or use one of our core heads.
If your looking for no down time you could always put down a deposit on one of our core sets. We would then send it out to you and once you complete the swap send back in your old heads for your core deposit back.
Give us a call we are always glad to talk with customer and potential customers about our heads and our process:
310-326-2399
or if email is better for you:
HP@americanheritageperformance.com
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
We do sell our Moldstar90 guides out right but the final honing of them is different than any guide material most have ever seen or worked with.
Moldstar90 work hardens over time so the longer you use it the stronger it gets. The more you beat on it the better it is. Moldstar90 is top tier stuff!!! With that said you have to take the "work hardening" into consideration when machining/ final honing them. In all honesty it is probably easier to send in a set of heads to us or use one of our core heads.
If your looking for no down time you could always put down a deposit on one of our core sets. We would then send it out to you and once you complete the swap send back in your old heads for your core deposit back.
Give us a call we are always glad to talk with customer and potential customers about our heads and our process:
310-326-2399
or if email is better for you:
HP@americanheritageperformance.com
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
The following users liked this post:
Mrgusto (01-06-2017)
01-01-2017, 12:13 PM
#23
Team Owner
Of course higher lifter will put more side loading, so yes, more lift, more potential wear on guides.
01-01-2017, 12:22 PM
#24
It was somewhat of a rhetorical question as I can assume that most that get their heads "fixed" are running a stock cam or if they run a cam most run smaller cams 600/620 lift and probably still don't run their cars consistently hard per say , I on the other hand will run my car very aggressively , but I won't put a lot of miles on my car but when I do they will be hard miles , so if because of my driving habits and 620/650 lift cam I need to check my guides more regularly that's fine if it could possibly save my engine , I just don't want to spend $500 extra on guides if I'll still have to keep and eye on them , I'm like some others I do my own work and have no issue pulling my heads when necessary
01-01-2017, 12:37 PM
#25
Team Owner
IMO, this is a high performance motor. Checking them every 20k is not crazy or out of line. I checked mine at 22k after being "fixed" and they showed no signs of wear. I'll check again at 30k. Part of having a high performance motor. Guides are a wear item, have been , always have been. LS motors like to wear guides quickly, LS7s even quicker than other LS motors. Either get use to doing it as part of a 2-3 year check up, or buy a car that doesn't have this issue.
01-01-2017, 02:22 PM
#26
Team Owner
You can NOT check the valves with the heads on the car. You do not have a problem. The internet has you crazy.
Good luck and if you want new heads then just say it but you don't need them for a design or production flaw based off of checking the valves with the heads on the car.
Of course no one here listens and many will chastise me...
Good luck and if you want new heads then just say it but you don't need them for a design or production flaw based off of checking the valves with the heads on the car.
Of course no one here listens and many will chastise me...
Last edited by MTPZ06; 01-01-2017 at 02:23 PM.
01-01-2017, 04:14 PM
#27
IMO, this is a high performance motor. Checking them every 20k is not crazy or out of line. I checked mine at 22k after being "fixed" and they showed no signs of wear. I'll check again at 30k. Part of having a high performance motor. Guides are a wear item, have been , always have been. LS motors like to wear guides quickly, LS7s even quicker than other LS motors. Either get use to doing it as part of a 2-3 year check up, or buy a car that doesn't have this issue.
01-01-2017, 04:18 PM
#28
You can NOT check the valves with the heads on the car. You do not have a problem. The internet has you crazy.
Good luck and if you want new heads then just say it but you don't need them for a design or production flaw based off of checking the valves with the heads on the car.
Of course no one here listens and many will chastise me...
Good luck and if you want new heads then just say it but you don't need them for a design or production flaw based off of checking the valves with the heads on the car.
Of course no one here listens and many will chastise me...
More so then both videos posted on ls1 tech. Trust me I didnt want to pull the heads, but I have already started.
01-01-2017, 05:01 PM
#30
Team Owner
If a valve wobbles all over and you can physically rock it back and forth a good ammount with the heads on, no need to pull a head to tell you the guides are screwed. The only time you may not be able to tell on the car is borderline situations, but for a gross failure it sure as hell is easy to tell.
01-04-2017, 05:18 AM
#31
Supporting Vendor
Member Since: Sep 2013
Location: Harbor City California
Posts: 2,817
Received 1,012 Likes
on
533 Posts
http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/
310-326-2399
Last edited by American Heritage; 01-04-2017 at 05:19 AM.
01-04-2017, 05:59 PM
#32
Le Mans Master
You can NOT check the valves with the heads on the car. You do not have a problem. The internet has you crazy.
Good luck and if you want new heads then just say it but you don't need them for a design or production flaw based off of checking the valves with the heads on the car.
Of course no one here listens and many will chastise me...
Good luck and if you want new heads then just say it but you don't need them for a design or production flaw based off of checking the valves with the heads on the car.
Of course no one here listens and many will chastise me...
Have you researched this forum and seen or even know what an out of spec valve guide is?
01-06-2017, 11:12 AM
#33
Melting Slicks
Going forward I will have mine apart every winter. I have seen multiple cars fail including mine. Mine failed AFTER I had addressed the head / valve issue. Every failure I have witnessed has been catastrophic. After this new build is complete I will have "invested" (lol) again in the past 3 years what new buyers are purchasing their cars for currently.
I think new buyers need to carefully consider the potential financial downside to ownership of these cars. Yes they are cool. Yes they are fast. Unfortunately they can be more expensive than just the initial purchase and new buyers should consider that possibility.
01-06-2017, 11:27 AM
#34
Team Owner
Nailed it ^^^^
Another reason I STRONGLY suggest aftermarket valves. I fully expect my guides to wear out again, and wear out quickly. Its part of the game. I want a valve that can take a beating without coming apart (and hold up to 1000+hp of heat). Controlling a solid SS valve is not hard at all, just requires a different spring.
Another reason I STRONGLY suggest aftermarket valves. I fully expect my guides to wear out again, and wear out quickly. Its part of the game. I want a valve that can take a beating without coming apart (and hold up to 1000+hp of heat). Controlling a solid SS valve is not hard at all, just requires a different spring.
01-06-2017, 11:55 AM
#35
I think of this when I see folks buying or trying to buy these cars inexpensively. They aren't necessarily inexpensive turn key cars after the purchase. They require a little attention.
Going forward I will have mine apart every winter. I have seen multiple cars fail including mine. Mine failed AFTER I had addressed the head / valve issue. Every failure I have witnessed has been catastrophic. After this new build is complete I will have "invested" (lol) again in the past 3 years what new buyers are purchasing their cars for currently.
I think new buyers need to carefully consider the potential financial downside to ownership of these cars. Yes they are cool. Yes they are fast. Unfortunately they can be more expensive than just the initial purchase and new buyers should consider that possibility.
Going forward I will have mine apart every winter. I have seen multiple cars fail including mine. Mine failed AFTER I had addressed the head / valve issue. Every failure I have witnessed has been catastrophic. After this new build is complete I will have "invested" (lol) again in the past 3 years what new buyers are purchasing their cars for currently.
I think new buyers need to carefully consider the potential financial downside to ownership of these cars. Yes they are cool. Yes they are fast. Unfortunately they can be more expensive than just the initial purchase and new buyers should consider that possibility.
Last edited by injfuel; 01-06-2017 at 11:56 AM.
01-06-2017, 11:58 AM
#36
Team Owner
I think of this when I see folks buying or trying to buy these cars inexpensively. They aren't necessarily inexpensive turn key cars after the purchase. They require a little attention.
Going forward I will have mine apart every winter. I have seen multiple cars fail including mine. Mine failed AFTER I had addressed the head / valve issue. Every failure I have witnessed has been catastrophic. After this new build is complete I will have "invested" (lol) again in the past 3 years what new buyers are purchasing their cars for currently.
I think new buyers need to carefully consider the potential financial downside to ownership of these cars. Yes they are cool. Yes they are fast. Unfortunately they can be more expensive than just the initial purchase and new buyers should consider that possibility.
Going forward I will have mine apart every winter. I have seen multiple cars fail including mine. Mine failed AFTER I had addressed the head / valve issue. Every failure I have witnessed has been catastrophic. After this new build is complete I will have "invested" (lol) again in the past 3 years what new buyers are purchasing their cars for currently.
I think new buyers need to carefully consider the potential financial downside to ownership of these cars. Yes they are cool. Yes they are fast. Unfortunately they can be more expensive than just the initial purchase and new buyers should consider that possibility.
Why anyone wouldn't want to do a bare minimum periodic inspection of the top end on a ~$15K motor is beyond me...especially the new crop of owners that are starting to pick these cars up because its finally within their reach (budget). If it was a stretch to swing the $30K to buy a 06/07 w/ 40-50K miles...they surely cant comfortably afford a fresh LS7 to replace the one that just puked its guts all over the road.I keep bringing up the F355 for comparison...the upkeep on that car is
. Always loved the looks, contemplated buying one for several years since it would just be a toy...but the upkeep was more than a deterrent for me. Maybe if I was retired, and all I did was wrench on the car...but that ain't me yet. The author is wildly biased, and throws worst case $$$ figures...but all his points on possible failures and maintenance items/intervals is spot on. http://jalopnik.com/here-s-why-you-s...355-1706976075
01-06-2017, 02:23 PM
#37
Melting Slicks
Here was the latest victim I witnessed. This is me driving my Viper ACR-E. Skip to 15:10 if you don't feel like watching the whole thing. . His motor took it's last breath at 110 + mph, puked its guts all over the track and simply by the grace of God I guess, no one was killed or injured.
I came upon the situation, no yellow flags waving, at a VMax of 114 mph and luckily got around him on the left, tires covered in anti-freeze and oil.
Ironically he and I had just had a long conversation in the lobby back at the hotel the night before. He asked me how "Real" I felt the problem was and my reply was he needed to do something immediately. Unfortunately his car did not survive the rest of the weekend.
It was BONE STOCK except for safety equipment and brakes, No Tune ever. He could not afford to fix it and sold the whole mess while in that "disgusted with his luck" frame of mind for next to nothing.
I came upon the situation, no yellow flags waving, at a VMax of 114 mph and luckily got around him on the left, tires covered in anti-freeze and oil.
Ironically he and I had just had a long conversation in the lobby back at the hotel the night before. He asked me how "Real" I felt the problem was and my reply was he needed to do something immediately. Unfortunately his car did not survive the rest of the weekend.
It was BONE STOCK except for safety equipment and brakes, No Tune ever. He could not afford to fix it and sold the whole mess while in that "disgusted with his luck" frame of mind for next to nothing.
01-06-2017, 02:50 PM
#38
Safety Car
You have to comprehend what is being written.
he said "check" not change so that one can see the problem coming in the future.
Not only that, most install cams which requires checking springs every 20k ish so its good to keep an eye
01-06-2017, 02:58 PM
#39
Safety Car
I think of this when I see folks buying or trying to buy these cars inexpensively. They aren't necessarily inexpensive turn key cars after the purchase. They require a little attention.
Going forward I will have mine apart every winter. I have seen multiple cars fail including mine. Mine failed AFTER I had addressed the head / valve issue. Every failure I have witnessed has been catastrophic. After this new build is complete I will have "invested" (lol) again in the past 3 years what new buyers are purchasing their cars for currently.
I think new buyers need to carefully consider the potential financial downside to ownership of these cars. Yes they are cool. Yes they are fast. Unfortunately they can be more expensive than just the initial purchase and new buyers should consider that possibility.
Going forward I will have mine apart every winter. I have seen multiple cars fail including mine. Mine failed AFTER I had addressed the head / valve issue. Every failure I have witnessed has been catastrophic. After this new build is complete I will have "invested" (lol) again in the past 3 years what new buyers are purchasing their cars for currently.
I think new buyers need to carefully consider the potential financial downside to ownership of these cars. Yes they are cool. Yes they are fast. Unfortunately they can be more expensive than just the initial purchase and new buyers should consider that possibility.
Its my opinion these are a mechanics car, and should only be owned by a mechanic or rich person with a good mechanic close by.
Similar to the whole 1000CC + sportbike threads, you don't buy one blind you graduate to said vehicle.
Any vehicle you spend any amount of time over 100mph in, needs to have every part known about, and what kind of condition every piece is in. IMHO