American Heritage

Just finished this build and thought we would post it up for any potentially interested.

581rwhp/546rwtq

AHP Ported Package 4 Heads
Ported stock intake manifold
Nick Williams 102TB
AHP CA 116 Cam Kit
Cold Air Intake (stock exhaust)
E85

Great Power, Great low end Torque.
Zero surging. Zero bucking. Zero starting issues. Zero driveablity issues (drives like bone stock till you put your foot into it).
Perfect Street/Strip or Daily Driver package.








American Heritage Performance (AHP)
310-326-2399
Or
HP@americanheritageperformance.com

http://www.americanheritageperformance.com/

MTPZ06

Great numbers Kohle!

outhouse

Love my AHP build



AHP Ported Package 4 Heads
Ported MSD intake manifold
Ported stock TB
AHP CA 116 Cam Kit
K&N Cold Air Intake (stock exhaust)


Rain or shine 600HP daily driver.

zblackz06

I have the exact same build and mine put down around 530 rwhp on a dyno jet, seeing all these high hp numbers makes me start to wonder why mine sees so low.

I know some guys use Mustang and other types of dyno so maybe that's the answer.

I think it may help if guys state the type of dyno when stating hp readings, just food for thought.

Wulverine

I wouldn't sweat it if I were you. What we don't see is the baseline dyno before mods performed in these "high hp" builds.

AzDave47

Has AHP ever provided before/after dyno runs from stock LS7 to built, on the same dyno?

American Heritage

This car came to us with a different cam already installed. The dyno sheet he brought with him was 507 rwhp on a dynojet. We asked him if he wanted a base pull and he said he did not want one since he already had his prior dyno sheet from another shop.

As stated many times before. We do not have an in house dyno, we use a local dyna pack dyno that is down the street friom us (the posted dyno sheet says dyna pack right there on the sheet). We would be more than glad to do before and after dyno pulls if the customers were willing to pay for the extra time it takes us to take a car over there for the base pull and then added down time that adds by slowing down our schedule. Also most our customers come to us with dyno sheets for their cars from other shops where they had dyno work done and as a result are only interested in the post work numbers.

If your running roughly the same combo and are not near the rwhp posted a lot of that can be due to the tune itself. There can be 30-40plus rwhp in just a tune (meaning a not so great tune can loose you 30plus rwhp over where you would be with a "proper" tune). For example every now and then we will get someone who says their CA116 cam surges or bucks at low speeds and our answer is its in the tune because our CA116 cam does not buck or surge. My point is that the tune (or more importantly who is doing the tune) can make a huge differance in both driveability and or final power numbers

Yes there are some differance from different brand dynos (mustangs tend to read low while dyno jets read a little higher and dyna packs a little higher still).
We use the setting on the dyna pack that is supposed to give the closest possible reading to an actual dynojet dyno. We make no attempt to hide this and only use the dyna pack vs a dynojet because it is the dyno we currently have local to us. As stated we do not have an in house dyno.

Regardless this as a very nice build that makes great power, gets decent gas mileage (he is running E85 soley), has zero driveability issues and the customer is Beyond happy/pleased with his build!!!

injfuel

Were the heads milled at all to take advantage of the extra compression since the customer is running e85 exclusively? Also when you mill the heads , say , 40 thousandths does that require shorter pushrods when using stock GM MLS gaskets ? Also those numbers are SUPER impressive considering is has stock exhaust so I'm assuming stock manifolds as well

outhouse

My 600 was not RWHP bud. I'm within 10-15 of yours and I'm guessing at that because the dyno we used was way off.


As a base line they ran a stock 2015 Z06 a week before, and same tine of day and weather mine was 38 rwhp less.

outhouse

The numbers are really meaningless unless you do a before and after run, and most people do not.


The tuner that did mine says most of his cars run 100hp less then other on the track yet his cars often place every race.


My actual numbers were like 503-504 rwhp and we know real world its different, I'm sure my car is in the 10's

zblackz06

I am happy with my AHP build and Kohle went out of his way to help me when he did not have to and that to me is priceless.

I am having some minor driveability issues but part of that was me learning the cam and the tune (performed by a tuner other than AHP).

I did get 80 rwhp over my baseline and was looking for a car which ran like stock but wanted to squeeze a few more ponies out of the motor without loosing drivability.

I haven't really driven the car since getting the mods due to weather and other issues so I can't comment on the highway manners but once my issues are squared away I know I will be happy.
Again my issues have nothing to do Kohle it's just that as a vette owner I would like to squeeze out every last drop of power I can without breaking the bank.

outhouse

I know mine has perfect stock like drivability, and tune perfect. Love the way it runs.


Ive only heard of one that bucked using your head and cam and the guy had his own tuner and the car was obviously tuned wrong.


Mine took a second quick tune adj for the idle which was a hair rich and needed leaning out by 5 on HP tuner.


The 116 idles at 600 and I was able to drive it cleanly to the tuner/dyno 30 minutes away without killing the motor or even throwing a check engine light. My tuner also said it was easy to get the fuel ratio which can be tricky balanced at idle, and the full RPM runs were done multiple times and tweaked a hair for maximum power I remember his target was a hair rich for drivability and to make sure I didn't blow a piston out of it, 12.5 was a target number on the dyno he was chasing.

outhouse

With yours being so close to mine real world with a good tune, 95hp gain is probably your real world numbers.





This car set up this way puts a hell of a smile on your face.


Highly recommend sticky tires with the added HP. Average tires were OK stock, hard to keep traction with cold pavement now.

zblackz06

I agree the most important thing to me is having a good running car because I am not out to break records just enjoy my car.

To me I gets my mind thinking when guys put out hp numbers and state what they used to measure the hp with.
I know it's just me reading to much into it buts that the way I am.

zblackz06

Mine currently idles around 800rpm but if I am cruising at 40mph and 2000rpm I get some bucking but that is probably in my tune.
I think my hot starting was cured with a new battery but more driving will confirm that.

outhouse

I don't play that LOL


Its the same exact game chasing numbers instead of real world usability in the motorcycle forums, even the baselines are way off on 200HP engines from one dyno to the next and these guys are betting on numbers I view as scraps.


If you spend time over a 100 its just like here, the best mod is the driver mod and training.


Most people want a faster engine and neglect the whole package required to be "really" faster. We are sort of lucky these cars only need a little love to be semi track ready.

outhouse

No probably about it bud, its a fact. get it handled you paid for it the tuner owes this to you.


I cruise the freeway at 70 at 1500rpm in 6th going up or down hills and this engine is smooth as glass.


I have a steep narrow driveway with turns and if I screw up around 1000rpm I might get a little, but that's driver error and a stock car would do it. Matter of fact mine stalled easier stock then now, I used to kill it at lights before the work was done.


take it back and get it adjusted, no dyno needed for this.

MTPZ06

Dyno tune is one thing, but a street tune is needed to correct street manners.

outhouse

Yep. tune below 2500 us one thing, and over 2500 another.


You can drive this car below 2500 all day every day on the street with no need to go higher. I get 14mpg with all the hills and stop lights so I have no problem driving this way.

AzDave47

I posed the question of before/after because that is the reasonable way, numbers wise, to know what the mods got you. I agree with Kohle, if it wasn't stock to begin with, then you still don't know. I went from mine stock dyno rum to full mods dyno on the same dyno so I could give the feedback on this forum. Even on a "dynojet" I've seen stock LS7's vary by nearly 60 rwhp (420-480), even though the factory flywheel number is 505 SAE and it has been reported the engines from the factory had at most 3-5 HP varience.

Another way is trap speed, but even then tracks vary so much that only back to back trap speeds on the same day with the same driver would realy count.