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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I like that video. I feel as though we aren't doing the Shearer (Holley) justice though by mentioning it in the same discussion as a sheet metal intake. The Holley runners are a bit longer I think. I totally agree that SM intakes are a step in the wrong direction but people still buy em...
Billet lids aren't done, and decided I currently don't want to mess with hood situation.
I have $4k into my awesome great fitting great working LG carbon hood. If I can't get $1800 for it, which no one was even in the ball park, no point in selling it for another hood that will cost me $2500+, then the cost of the intake, fab work, sensors, etc etc.
Pricing seems very competitive with the rest of the market at 1579. I would only buy one if the hp gains outweighed the tq losses. I don't want to gain 15 rwhp by losing 22rwtq. I might consider buying if there's a 1:1 gain/loss, but a >1:1 gain loss would be ideal (eg, gaining 15rwhp but only losing 9rwtq). If that makes sense. The article that was done recently on the FAST modular runner testing showed how the mid level runners were gained some hp and lost a bunch of tq, and the high rpm runners gained a touch more hp but gave up huge tq. In that testing, the medium runners looked unattractive for a street car and might be ok for a mile event, and the high rpm runners looked straight up drag only.
Not sure how this would work for a NA car, but for a FI car this will be awesome. I would already have it on the car if I didn't have $4k+ tied into my hood.
Yeah, that's a big investment for a hood. I was under the impression that what is good for NA is also good for FI, in terms of hp. This seems to be the case with Coyote engines as well, lots of dyno testing out there on centr blowers and intake swaps.
Apart from the issue of physically blowing up the IMs from boost of course.
Yes, good for NA is good for FI, but there is also the point of $1500+ for an intake, or $80 on a pulley swap to get way more. Once you max out a blower, I can see doing an intake. I can't hook already, so more power isn't what I need. I would be doing it for reliability and not exploding more intakes, and power would be a nice addition.
Unreal one advantage of this style is balancing the air across each cylinder. This has always been an issue on stock intakes but I recon this one could have it sorted!
They are several ITB manufactures out there that do a similar thing but on boosted 4/6 cylinder motors.
Yes, tons of good about this intake, and I think it will work awesome for anyone with a normal RPM range. For someone not wanting to wrap out to 8k or some crazy RPM, this should make killer power from 4-7k.
I think you are still going to loose some low end over a good stock style intake but like you said some people have a different set of compromises to deal with!
Compared to the short runner ones we see, the loss should be way less. Giving up 10ftlbs to gain 50hp is better than giving up 50ftlbs to gain 50hp at 7000+.
Common misconception is that boosted engines work better or differently than N/A engines....even among shops and guys in the industry, its a very common misconception.
"N/A motors suck air and with boosted engines the air is pressurized and forced into the engine"....you hear (and read) alot of that and its not true guys. It all works the same....and N/A engine is "pressurized" also but its only pressurized with the weight of one atmosphere of air versus one atmosphere plus 50% (7 PSI ish) or two atmospheres (14 PSI ish) etc. etc.
It all works the same....air is being forced into the engine in both situations....all the dynamics of an N/A engine apply to boosted engines....but with boosted engines there is more force and higher airspeeds occurring because of that situation and technically that can change things but its very subtle.
Quick story.....awhile back a customer of mine swapped out my ported FAST for a sheet metal intake of some kind. It obliterated the power curve giving up 50 ft/bs of torque down low and barely making the same peak power (it was actually a few HP less). As soon as he drove the car with the sheet metal he knew it was bad before even hitting the dyno (he had already done some street tuning to get the AFR's close).
He shelved that intake shortly after and a few years later he went boosted (A&A Supercharger set-up). He was so convinced that sheet metal intake was going to work great under boosted conditions (in light of my sharing why I didnt think so). I was curious but felt not much would change. Sure enough he swapped it right on the dyno this time and the same end results....obviously he made a bunch more power with both intakes due to the supercharger install, but the sheet metal intake just killed the area under the curve once again.
(This time the intake was finally up for sale though.....LOL)
True story....real world example of the fact there is very little changing in the dynamics and hot ridding principles of an engine N/A versus boosted with the obvious exception of cam design to help crutch evacuating the cylinder from the larger intake charge the blower provides.
My question is would this intake work better with a higher than plenum height TB/inlet location and I think it would but it certainly wouldn't package as well and this intake doesnt need a monster hoodscoop to work where the other situation I just mentioned clearly would.
Hell I'm looking forward to the testing....I would even provide a ported MSD to compare it to as that's the best "conventional style" LS7 intake on the market presently....it would make for a really cool test comparing the shape of the power and torque curves and honestly these intakes for the most part appeal to two totally different crowds but it would be cool to see the difference between the two.
-Tony
Tony ever done any work with ITBs like say the Harrop setup? Surely they would be the best flowing intakes out there, no?....
04-07-2017, 07:24 PM
