2009 Z06 Exhaust flaps not closing
#1
2009 Z06 Exhaust flaps not closing
New owner here...just picked her up today. 2009 C6 Z06 Grey, 25k miles, bone stock except intake & tune.
On the drive home, the exhaust had a good drone on the highway and I noticed the center two tips are black.
So when I got home I started looking into the actuator and saw the attached pics. I'm assume the reason my exhaust flaps aren't closing is because this green wire has been clipped and should be in the 6th prong of the harness that's covered...is this accurate?
I already checked the fuse and it's properly installed and not blown.
Photos are from passenger left tail light opening.
On the drive home, the exhaust had a good drone on the highway and I noticed the center two tips are black.
So when I got home I started looking into the actuator and saw the attached pics. I'm assume the reason my exhaust flaps aren't closing is because this green wire has been clipped and should be in the 6th prong of the harness that's covered...is this accurate?
I already checked the fuse and it's properly installed and not blown.
Photos are from passenger left tail light opening.
Last edited by IBAUCLAPlaya; 06-17-2017 at 06:59 PM.
#3
Le Mans Master
Well, the system needs both to work properly. Vacuum from the intake manifold, current to the module controlled by the BCM.
That green wire you are looking, at that may be an antenna lead and not a cut wire, so don't assume.
The connector and wiring to the module in question looks intact.
There are several things to check when troubleshooting this issue -
Is the line connected to the back of the intake manifold that rolls up through the firewall near the brake booster? Is it free from any cracks, splits or breaks? These are actually fairly common issues.
Next up is the area in the pics - these modules have been known to fail and a simple replacement usually resolves the problem.
Also check to ensure the vacuum lines on the back side of the car are solid from where they flow underneath the body to the module and then from the module to the actual actuators themselves.
There is also a fuse in-line in the footwell, controls power to the module in the bumper.
Finally, you have the diaphragms in the muffler actuators - it's not common for them to fail but you can always check them with a vacuum pump.
In fact you could check the whole system from the front of the car to the back with a vacuum pump - if all that checks out it's either the line from the intake to the firewall or the electronic module in the bumper area.
That green wire you are looking, at that may be an antenna lead and not a cut wire, so don't assume.
The connector and wiring to the module in question looks intact.
There are several things to check when troubleshooting this issue -
Is the line connected to the back of the intake manifold that rolls up through the firewall near the brake booster? Is it free from any cracks, splits or breaks? These are actually fairly common issues.
Next up is the area in the pics - these modules have been known to fail and a simple replacement usually resolves the problem.
Also check to ensure the vacuum lines on the back side of the car are solid from where they flow underneath the body to the module and then from the module to the actual actuators themselves.
There is also a fuse in-line in the footwell, controls power to the module in the bumper.
Finally, you have the diaphragms in the muffler actuators - it's not common for them to fail but you can always check them with a vacuum pump.
In fact you could check the whole system from the front of the car to the back with a vacuum pump - if all that checks out it's either the line from the intake to the firewall or the electronic module in the bumper area.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 06-18-2017 at 10:27 AM.
#5
Melting Slicks
Well, the system needs both to work properly. Vacuum from the intake manifold, current to the module controlled by the BCM.
That green wire you are looking, at that may be an antenna lead and not a cut wire, so don't assume.
The connector and wiring to the module in question looks intact.
There are several things to check when troubleshooting this issue -
Is the line connected to the back of the intake manifold that rolls up through the firewall near the brake booster? Is it free from any cracks, splits or breaks? These are actually fairly common issues.
Next up is the area in the pics - these modules have been known to fail and a simple replacement usually resolves the problem.
Also check to ensure the vacuum lines on the back side of the car are solid from where they flow underneath the body to the module and then from the module to the actual actuators themselves.
There is also a fuse in-line in the footwell, controls power to the module in the bumper.
Finally, you have the diaphragms in the muffler actuators - it's not common for them to fail but you can always check them with a vacuum pump.
In fact you could check the whole system from the front of the car to the back with a vacuum pump - if all that checks out it's either the line from the intake to the firewall or the electronic module in the bumper area.
That green wire you are looking, at that may be an antenna lead and not a cut wire, so don't assume.
The connector and wiring to the module in question looks intact.
There are several things to check when troubleshooting this issue -
Is the line connected to the back of the intake manifold that rolls up through the firewall near the brake booster? Is it free from any cracks, splits or breaks? These are actually fairly common issues.
Next up is the area in the pics - these modules have been known to fail and a simple replacement usually resolves the problem.
Also check to ensure the vacuum lines on the back side of the car are solid from where they flow underneath the body to the module and then from the module to the actual actuators themselves.
There is also a fuse in-line in the footwell, controls power to the module in the bumper.
Finally, you have the diaphragms in the muffler actuators - it's not common for them to fail but you can always check them with a vacuum pump.
In fact you could check the whole system from the front of the car to the back with a vacuum pump - if all that checks out it's either the line from the intake to the firewall or the electronic module in the bumper area.
#6
Drifting
start at the fuse in the passenger foot well. It's the bottom right fuse. Red 10 Amp. If there isn't a fuse in there that's why they are staying open. Put a fuse in and it should work.
Next step after checking the fuse is there. While the car is running unplug one of the actuators on the muffler and put your finger over the vacuum line and see if it has vacuum and the other muffler still hooked up closes. If nothing then hook it back up and do the same for the other vac line. If one of the muffler close it's a torn diaphram in the muffler that didn't close.
Still not fixed. There is a plastic ball on the passenger side by the mufflers under the car. Larger than a softball. That is your vacuum canister for the npp. Unplug the line that comes from the front of the car while the car is running and see if it has vacuum with your finger. If it does then replace the solenoid behind the inside pass tail light. If no vacuum then it is cracked or disconnected behind the intake.
Next step after checking the fuse is there. While the car is running unplug one of the actuators on the muffler and put your finger over the vacuum line and see if it has vacuum and the other muffler still hooked up closes. If nothing then hook it back up and do the same for the other vac line. If one of the muffler close it's a torn diaphram in the muffler that didn't close.
Still not fixed. There is a plastic ball on the passenger side by the mufflers under the car. Larger than a softball. That is your vacuum canister for the npp. Unplug the line that comes from the front of the car while the car is running and see if it has vacuum with your finger. If it does then replace the solenoid behind the inside pass tail light. If no vacuum then it is cracked or disconnected behind the intake.
#7
Thanks. I will check these steps. Let me ask this...the car has a tune and I also noticed the 1-4 skip shift is disabled. Is it possible to disable skip shift and leave exhaust flaps open 100% of the time in the tune?
#10
Safety Car
#12
Le Mans Master
#13
Found the problem...the line to the vacuum canister was snapped at the point the line meets the canister.
I removed the canister and line all the way back to the t and capped off the t.
Will this work and be safe to drive? Or do I need to get a replacement canister and line?
I removed the canister and line all the way back to the t and capped off the t.
Will this work and be safe to drive? Or do I need to get a replacement canister and line?
#14
Anybody?
Also does anybody know how to find the part numbers for items 19 & 28 from the following photo? Every parts website I pull up shows a different diagram in the emissions section.
Also does anybody know how to find the part numbers for items 19 & 28 from the following photo? Every parts website I pull up shows a different diagram in the emissions section.
#16
Team Owner
Yes, call Rich@Abel Chevy, or the parts house of your choice, and they will give you the part numbers and a great price on those.