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how do i change m clutch fluid????

Old 06-17-2017, 10:05 PM
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Blakestevens10916
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Default how do i change m clutch fluid????

love to know what fluid to get for the clutch and location and please no smart comments
Old 06-17-2017, 10:07 PM
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Mordeth
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Prestone DOT4. Take a syringe and suck the fluid from the reservoir. Then fill back up with new stuff. Replace cap on reservoir. Pump clutch 20-30 times. Remove cap on reservoir. Suck out fluid. Fill up with new stuff. Replace cap. Pump clutch etc etc. Rinse, repeat until fluid is clear after pumping clutch. Keep a rag handy and place around reservoir as brake fluid is corrosive to paint.
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Old 06-17-2017, 10:11 PM
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Old 06-17-2017, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
Prestone DOT4. Take a syringe and suck the fluid from the reservoir. Then fill back up with new stuff. Replace cap on reservoir. Pump clutch 20-30 times. Remove cap on reservoir. Suck out fluid. Fill up with new stuff. Replace cap. Pump clutch etc etc. Rinse, repeat until fluid is clear after pumping clutch. Keep a rag handy and place around reservoir as brake fluid is corrosive to paint.
thank you
Old 06-18-2017, 07:46 AM
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Old 06-18-2017, 09:05 AM
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Dale1990
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
Prestone DOT4. Take a syringe and suck the fluid from the reservoir. Then fill back up with new stuff. Replace cap on reservoir. Pump clutch 20-30 times. Remove cap on reservoir. Suck out fluid. Fill up with new stuff. Replace cap. Pump clutch etc etc. Rinse, repeat until fluid is clear after pumping clutch. Keep a rag handy and place around reservoir as brake fluid is corrosive to paint.


Although, instead of pumping the clutch pedal while parked, I just do the fluid swap before I take the car for a drive to work, shopping, whatever. Over the course of a few trips the fluid is nice and clear.
Old 06-18-2017, 02:12 PM
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3X2
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Pumping the pedal does nothing to change the fluid in the line or slave cylinder. But it does give your left leg some exercise.
Old 06-18-2017, 08:19 PM
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b4i4getit
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Originally Posted by 3X2
Pumping the pedal does nothing to change the fluid in the line or slave cylinder. But it does give your left leg some exercise.
Absolutely correct. Impossible to change fluid in the slave using this method. Funny how long these myths of the Ranger method have been going on.
Old 06-18-2017, 10:38 PM
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Brandon619
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Originally Posted by b4i4getit
Absolutely correct. Impossible to change fluid in the slave using this method. Funny how long these myths of the Ranger method have been going on.
Thats a pretty BOLD statement there. Impossible is a little exaggerated, the "Ranger method" has worked many C5 & C6 owners. Is this method the ultimate way to flush the slave, no. Does it work yes it does, pumping the clutch pedal distributes the new fluid with the old fluid.
Old 06-19-2017, 08:17 AM
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3X2
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So using that logic, I can flush the brake system using that same method? I don't think so.
Old 06-19-2017, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Brandon619
Thats a pretty BOLD statement there. Impossible is a little exaggerated, the "Ranger method" has worked many C5 & C6 owners. Is this method the ultimate way to flush the slave, no. Does it work yes it does, pumping the clutch pedal distributes the new fluid with the old fluid.
The problem is it only cleans up the fluid in the reservoir and very little of it gets to the slave. Also there is no way for the crud in the slave to work its way back up and its still in there. Talk to any automotive hydraulic engineer who can clue you in how the fluid in a clutch system works. Its amazing how this myth has gone on for years.
Old 06-19-2017, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by b4i4getit
The problem is it only cleans up the fluid in the reservoir and very little of it gets to the slave. Also there is no way for the crud in the slave to work its way back up and its still in there. Talk to any automotive hydraulic engineer who can clue you in how the fluid in a clutch system works. Its amazing how this myth has gone on for years.
yeah! Talk to any automotive hydraulic engineer! Forget all your silly... results..
Okay bud. Go ahead and drop your exhaust and tunnel plate to flush your clutch fluid. Any "automotive hydraulic engineer" in the world is gonna know that! Maybe you can ask them why there's even a reservoir and get back to us. Yes! Brakes work exactly like a clutch. Any automotive friction engineer is gonna tell you the same.
I just spoke with my favorite automotive bolt removal engineer and he said it's 36 bolts to remove the tunnel plate. My automotive forum engineer said that there are lots of idiots on this particular forum and to use the mythical method that hundreds of people have been using with great success.
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Old 06-19-2017, 10:50 AM
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You basically agreed with me. You said its 36 bolts to remove the tunnel plate. So its way too much work to do it correctly so why not do the cosmetic flush. It has to be just as good right ? Its also worth saying that GM does not mention the Ranger method in the owners manual. Its because it does not work. Fluid change from the reservoir WILL NOT remove the sludge in the slave and its the sludge that will cause you to have problems. Continuing living in your fantasy world Bud. A proper flush is the only EFFECTIVE way to change the fluid.

Last edited by b4i4getit; 06-19-2017 at 11:02 AM.
Old 06-19-2017, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by b4i4getit
The problem is it only cleans up the fluid in the reservoir and very little of it gets to the slave. Also there is no way for the crud in the slave to work its way back up and its still in there. Talk to any automotive hydraulic engineer who can clue you in how the fluid in a clutch system works. Its amazing how this myth has gone on for years.
So you agree that the impossible happens? Look the Ranger method is not the best solution to exchange the clutch fluid, bleeding from the slave. Please don't insult my intelligence with the Engineer crap, I deal with Engineers on a daily basis working with a public water system I know basic hydraulics. All that I was stating is that the Ranger method is a SIMPLE method of exchanging the clutch fluid.

Last edited by Brandon619; 06-19-2017 at 12:58 PM.
Old 06-19-2017, 12:46 PM
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So it sounds like the Ranger method is fine for keeping clean fluid in circulation, but won't do anything for sludge removal (Although I would think it would help cut down on how much sludge continues to build up).

When does GM recommend a full flush of the system? After how many miles?
Old 06-19-2017, 01:03 PM
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GM TSB


#PIP4938: Discolored Dirty Dark Sludge And/Or Grease In The Clutch Fluid Reservoir - (Aug 4, 2011)
Subject: Discolored Dirty Dark Sludge and/or Grease in the Clutch Fluid Reservoir

Models: 2004-2012 Cadillac CTS CTS-V
2000-2012 Chevrolet Corvette,
2004-2012 Chevrolet Corvette Z06
2009-2012 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1
2004-2006 Pontiac GTO
2007-2009 Pontiac G8
Equipped with manual transmissions

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
It may be observed on some vehicles that the clutch fluid in the reservoir appears to be discolored, dirty, have sludge or grease contaminates in it after being in service for a period of time.

The level of discoloration will vary with factors such as driving conditions, under hood temperatures etc.

This is a phenomenon that may occur with time due to the interaction between the clutch system rubber parts and hydraulic clutch fluid. Comments have been received about the fluid in the hydraulic clutch system being discolored. This discoloration is the result of carbon black used in the seal manufacturing process leaching into the hydraulic fluid used in the clutch system. The discoloration may also collect on the inside of the clutch reservoir at the top of the fluid. This discoloration does not affect the operation of the clutch system and should not be considered a reason to flush the clutch hydraulic system

The small amount of sludge or grease that may be noticed is, in fact, grease that has migrated from the master cylinder assembly. The grease is used during assembly of the master cylinder.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Engineering investigations of returned fluid samples show that discoloration and grease in the fluid DO NOT negatively affect the performance of the clutch hydraulic fluid.

Field reports indicate that where clutch fluid and or clutch system components have been replaced to address this condition, the vehicles have returned with the same condition causing a repeat repair and a dissatisfied customer.

Discolored clutch fluid should not be replaced in a normal operating system. See latest version of tsb 07-07-31-001 and maintenance schedule for clutch fluid service.

For Clutch System Concerns and Diagnosis, refer to Diagnostic Starting Point– Clutch.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

#07-07-31-001E: Clutch Hydraulic System - New Service/Owner Maintenance Information - (Sep 27, 2012)
Subject: Clutch Hydraulic System – New Service/Owner Maintenance Information

Models: 2009-2013 Cadillac CTS-V Series (All Models)
2005-2013 Chevrolet Corvette (Including Z06 and ZR1)
Equipped with Tremec 6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPOs MM6, MZ6, MH3, MG9, ME2)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to update the models to include the 2013 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 07-07-31-001D (Section 07 – Transmission/Transaxle).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being issued to provide dealers with additional information on servicing the clutch hydraulic system. Please also advise customers of this new maintenance information.

Some cases have been found where the vehicle's clutch hydraulic system was contaminated with water. Higher than expected levels of water in the clutch fluid greater than 2% may cause the clutch fluid to boil. The presence of water in the fluid lowers the boiling point significantly; when this occurs, the driver may lose customary clutch pedal feel and performance.

To eliminate the opportunity for moisture to enter the clutch hydraulic system:

•The clutch fluid level inspection should be a VISUAL inspection only. Look through the transparent reservoir and observe the fluid level. Avoid removing the cap. DO NOT remove the cap just to top-off clutch fluid. Leave the system closed and sealed. During PDI inspection or routine service, the cap should not be opened for just an inspection.
•Open containers of DOT 4 clutch fluid have a two week shelf life. DO NOT use fluid if the container opening date is unknown or older than two weeks. DO NOT mix or re-use old fluid. Current service information already covers the issue of reuse.
•To provide the best clutch operation, it is recommended that the owner change the clutch fluid every 2 years or 48,000 km (30,000 miles), whichever comes first. Please flush and replace with fluid P/N 88958860 (P/N 88901244 in Canada) or equivalent DOT 4 fluid.
Old 06-19-2017, 01:26 PM
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Wow, so according to GM, the discoloration is normal and we should not touch anything, and should not open the reservoir cap at all. It's supposed to be left closed and sealed.

This is obviously counter to what Ranger does, which is open the cap every oil change.

GM simply recommends to change the clutch fluid every 2 years or 30k miles. Wonder how much the dealers charge for that...

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Old 06-19-2017, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by b4i4getit
You basically agreed with me. You said its 36 bolts to remove the tunnel plate. So its way too much work to do it correctly so why not do the cosmetic flush. It has to be just as good right ? Its also worth saying that GM does not mention the Ranger method in the owners manual. Its because it does not work. Fluid change from the reservoir WILL NOT remove the sludge in the slave and its the sludge that will cause you to have problems. Continuing living in your fantasy world Bud. A proper flush is the only EFFECTIVE way to change the fluid.
Crazy. The owner's manual doesn't say how to perform maintenance?? Maye you should talk to your automotive documentation engineer about that.. It doesn't say anything about the harmonic balancer wobble or LS7 valve guides in there either! CURSES!! You'd think it'd be right there

Last edited by pewter99; 06-19-2017 at 11:15 PM. Reason: namecalling not needed
Old 06-19-2017, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by LoganExplosion
Crazy. The owner's manual doesn't say how to perform maintenance?? Maye you should talk to your automotive documentation engineer about that.. It doesn't say anything about the harmonic balancer wobble or LS7 valve guides in there either! CURSES!! You'd thisnk it'd be right there..

This guy is a tool
My point is that the Ranger method is not documented as an EFFECTIVE way to change clutch fluid, Nobody said anything about harmonic balancers or valve guides, You should be out on a ledge somewhere.

Last edited by b4i4getit; 06-19-2017 at 10:31 PM.
Old 06-19-2017, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LoganExplosion
Crazy. The owner's manual doesn't say how to perform maintenance?? Maye you should talk to your automotive documentation engineer about that.. It doesn't say anything about the harmonic balancer wobble or LS7 valve guides in there either! CURSES!! You'd think it'd be right there..
Although I understand the ideology behind the ranger method, what he said actually made perfect sense to me.
Lets focus on figuring out the best thing to do as opposed to bashing each other.

Last edited by pewter99; 06-19-2017 at 11:16 PM.
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