jayyyw

I took my car to the drag strip last Friday and my stock clutch was not having it. I was only able to get 1 decent run in before it started to slip. I've been looking at various clutches and have narrowed it down to the RXT twin disc.

I'm having trouble deciding between the standard steel flywheel or their lightened version. Tried searching but didn't come up with much info. Can someone help me with the pros and cons of a light flywheel?

It'll mainly be daily driven, some highway stuff, and drag racing. The car currently makes 580/545 and I run 26" Mickey Street S/S tires, if that matters. Currently running a BTR Stage 3 cam and can leave from a stop off idle. I plan to switch to a "larger" camshaft down the road.

lamboworld

Buy the Monster Triple. Drives like stock and can hold 1000whp.

AzDave47

I have the RXT1000 and billet steel flywheel at 602/489. Since this was my first camm'd street car I chose the steel flywheel so I would have some flywheel mass to get away from a stop on the street. I am pleased with that and find the clutch is very slippable. I have done no hard 1/4 mile type leaves with it so will leave to others to comment on that.

Josh B.

I recommend the Monster LT-1S with optional flywheel lightening (-4lbs)

Total weight is approximately 8lbs lighter than stock LS7. When I drive my car I enjoy the lower mass flywheel, it's lighter without being too light. Any lighter and it would start subtracting from the driving experience by being too snappy, requiring too much gas to get it rolling...little things that would annoy me. But this is all highly subjective.

MarineMike

I'll have a RPS Billet Carbon Triple for sale ($2150 shipped) here in about 2 months. I'm deployed, so it'll be a little bit until i can ship it out.

jayyyw

I read your review on the FB group. Sounds like you are extremely happy with that clutch. I talked with my tuner and he also recommends the Monster LT1-S. Seems likely I'll be going with this clutch.

Josh B.

REDZED2

So the Mantic novelty has worn off?

Buddy A

What shop are you going to be using to replace your clutch?

jayyyw

Im going to do it myself at my tuner's shop.

Detoxx03

I've been running a Mantic twin for over 3 years with zero issues. Just purchased a triple today in preparation for my new build.

jayyyw

Update: I ended up purchasing a slightly used Monster LT1-S clutch from a buddy. Discs look to be in great condition with no signs of overheating on the surface. I believe it's the normal weight flywheel version. Can't wait to get it installed.

Since it's a used clutch, I'll need a few things that didn't come with it.

GM Slave
Katech Remote Bleeder
Flywheel bolts
Rear Main seal
Pilot bearing
Metal/Aluminum Slave bushing

Anything else I may be forgetting? This will be my first clutch change on a Corvette but I will be doing the work at my tuner's shop, with his help.

Josh B.

You're going to be very satisfied with the LT1-S.

The OEM Flywheel bolts have to be modified before use on the Monster. I would estimate that 1/8" has to be ground off of the head of the hex in order to clear the first clutch disc. Just FYI.

jayyyw

I noticed that. My buddy had his flywheel bolts in a little bag. They are one time use only so I didn't grab them. Does no one sell flywheel bolts that are already the correct size?

lamboworld

i am selling a GM slave that only has about 5,000 miles on it. PM me if you are interested.

jayyyw

Thanks for the offer but I think that's something I should buy new.

Josh B.

I haven't seen the modified bolts available anywhere besides monster. I applied red loctite on top of the blue thread locker that GM applies to the bolts.

lamboworld

No problem. I have the Monster triple and the OEM slave is not used with this clutch and that is the only reason why it is sitting in my garage. I sold my stock clutch and flywheel and the buyer did not need the slave.

jayyyw

With such a small bolt head, do you not foresee any issues when you go to remove them? I'd be afraid of rounding off the bolt heads.

Josh B.

That's a great point. Yes, you really need to be extra cautious when installing/removing the shorter bolt heads. I used a short 6 point 1/2" socket on my torque wrench to ensure the tool stayed absolutely perpendicular to the bolt face. If it ***** at all, you are screwed. I got away with using a regular socket. If you want to sacrifice a socket, you could take a 6 pt socket and belt sand it down 1/16th" to remove the initial "bevel" cut of the socket so that the actual mating surface of the hexagon begins immediately. I did not have to do this but its what I planned to do "just in case". Having a second set of hands to hold the flywheel holding tool (unless you have the fancy flywheel holder that bolts in place of the starter mount" will help you keep both hands on the torque wrench and in control of keeping the wrench square about the bolt face. Those bolts are NOT easy, but I didn't have any issues. Hope that helps!