[Z06] What to do with 06z with blown motor
#1
What to do with 06z with blown motor
So a while ago my LS7 let go. A rod blew thru the block causing catastrophic failure. This happened a week prior to me getting stationed in Europe, thus, the car has been sitting back in the states ever since. I've spent a lot of time looking thru the forums trying to see what other people did in this situation. It looks like the 4 options are sell as is, put a used LS7 in it, put a built motor in it, or put a LS1/3 in it and take it to Carmax.
Unfortunately I've only owned the car a little over a year so there is still a lien on the car. I don't plan on putting a built motor in the car since I don't plan on keeping it forever.
After this expensive lesson my main goal is to get out from under the car and go back to something with a warranty.
I guess I'm just looking for advise as to what to do now that I've put myself in this situation. Thanks for reading.
Unfortunately I've only owned the car a little over a year so there is still a lien on the car. I don't plan on putting a built motor in the car since I don't plan on keeping it forever.
After this expensive lesson my main goal is to get out from under the car and go back to something with a warranty.
I guess I'm just looking for advise as to what to do now that I've put myself in this situation. Thanks for reading.
#2
Le Mans Master
If you just want out of it buy a used LS7 and have it installed. It's just a straight up loss.
If you can't afford it you need to sell it to someone that will buy it as is and then you will need to pay off the balance of the loan to get them the title.
Good luck.
If you can't afford it you need to sell it to someone that will buy it as is and then you will need to pay off the balance of the loan to get them the title.
Good luck.
#3
Drifting
Think of this as an opportunity.
You have a couple of options. First, consider a used LS7 and wash your hands with it. Look at Ebay and some other vendors that offer pull-out motors. Here's an LS7 with 48k miles for $8,600. You probably have a lot of parts that are still good on your existing motor, too. Should be able to salvage something for those.
New LS7 crate motor is around $13,600, and a new LS7 long-block is around $10.5k.
Second option is to consider building a project car, and depending upon how you do it, you could break even or more. Chances are you'll like it too much and end up just keeping it.
The crazy thing is you can get a new LT4 wet sump motor for $13,237. (I'd make sure it's got the new for 2017 upgraded heat exchangers, though.) I think you lose a couple of computer things with an LT motor in a C6, but I'm not sure what the latest is on that.
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...s/lt4-wet-sump
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...classic-chevy/
Worst case, consider an LS3 although I'd hate to see a stock LS3 pawned off in a wide-body Z06, (saw that at CarMax online one time.) For reference, a new LS3 for $6,750 or $8,300 for a 525hp variant. Used ones can likely be had for far less than that. Texas Speed has turn-key LS3's ranging from 540hp for $11.5k to 635hp for $14.7k.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Chevrol...dZi4b-&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Pe...lYlip6&vxp=mtr
You have a couple of options. First, consider a used LS7 and wash your hands with it. Look at Ebay and some other vendors that offer pull-out motors. Here's an LS7 with 48k miles for $8,600. You probably have a lot of parts that are still good on your existing motor, too. Should be able to salvage something for those.
New LS7 crate motor is around $13,600, and a new LS7 long-block is around $10.5k.
Second option is to consider building a project car, and depending upon how you do it, you could break even or more. Chances are you'll like it too much and end up just keeping it.
The crazy thing is you can get a new LT4 wet sump motor for $13,237. (I'd make sure it's got the new for 2017 upgraded heat exchangers, though.) I think you lose a couple of computer things with an LT motor in a C6, but I'm not sure what the latest is on that.
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...s/lt4-wet-sump
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...classic-chevy/
Worst case, consider an LS3 although I'd hate to see a stock LS3 pawned off in a wide-body Z06, (saw that at CarMax online one time.) For reference, a new LS3 for $6,750 or $8,300 for a 525hp variant. Used ones can likely be had for far less than that. Texas Speed has turn-key LS3's ranging from 540hp for $11.5k to 635hp for $14.7k.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Chevrol...dZi4b-&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Pe...lYlip6&vxp=mtr
Last edited by BigVette427; 08-22-2017 at 10:56 AM.
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BrandonScott (08-22-2017)
#4
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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However, without more info in your profile than just "male", the advice will be just as limited as above.
Here's a short list of questions to get you started.
What State is the car in?
What's the mileage?
What are the current mods?
Do you have the ability to do an engine swap yourself?
What's the condition of the rest of the car?
Last edited by HOXXOH; 08-22-2017 at 11:03 AM.
#5
Race Director
Think of this as an opportunity.
You have a couple of options. First, consider a used LS7 and wash your hands with it. Look at Ebay and some other vendors that offer pull-out motors. Here's an LS7 with 48k miles for $8,600. You probably have a lot of parts that are still good on your existing motor, too. Should be able to salvage something for those.
New LS7 crate motor is around $13,600, and a new LS7 long-block is around $10.5k.
Second option is to consider building a project car, and depending upon how you do it, you could break even or more. Chances are you'll like it too much and end up just keeping it.
The crazy thing is you can get a new LT4 wet sump motor for $13,237. (I'd make sure it's got the new for 2017 upgraded heat exchangers, though.) I think you lose a couple of computer things with an LT motor in a C6, but I'm not sure what the latest is on that.
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...s/lt4-wet-sump
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...classic-chevy/
Worst case, consider an LS3 although I'd hate to see a stock LS3 pawned off in a wide-body Z06, (saw that at CarMax online one time.) For reference, a new LS3 for $6,750 or $8,300 for a 525hp variant. Used ones can likely be had for far less than that. Texas Speed has turn-key LS3's ranging from 540hp for $11.5k to 635hp for $14.7k.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Chevrol...dZi4b-&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Pe...lYlip6&vxp=mtr
You have a couple of options. First, consider a used LS7 and wash your hands with it. Look at Ebay and some other vendors that offer pull-out motors. Here's an LS7 with 48k miles for $8,600. You probably have a lot of parts that are still good on your existing motor, too. Should be able to salvage something for those.
New LS7 crate motor is around $13,600, and a new LS7 long-block is around $10.5k.
Second option is to consider building a project car, and depending upon how you do it, you could break even or more. Chances are you'll like it too much and end up just keeping it.
The crazy thing is you can get a new LT4 wet sump motor for $13,237. (I'd make sure it's got the new for 2017 upgraded heat exchangers, though.) I think you lose a couple of computer things with an LT motor in a C6, but I'm not sure what the latest is on that.
http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...s/lt4-wet-sump
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...classic-chevy/
Worst case, consider an LS3 although I'd hate to see a stock LS3 pawned off in a wide-body Z06, (saw that at CarMax online one time.) For reference, a new LS3 for $6,750 or $8,300 for a 525hp variant. Used ones can likely be had for far less than that. Texas Speed has turn-key LS3's ranging from 540hp for $11.5k to 635hp for $14.7k.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-Chevrol...dZi4b-&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevrolet-Pe...lYlip6&vxp=mtr
OP, good luck moving forward. I think you need to start by deciding if you want to keep and enjoy the car for awhile. Once you figure that out, your choice will become clearer. If you decide to put a used LS7 in, find out if the heads were reworked and by whom. If not, I'd recommend planning to have them gone through and accounting for that cost as part of your solution. I had AHP work my heads because I really like the research they did on their various choices for valve guide materials and valve compatibility. Kohle was great to work with.
#6
However, without more info in your profile than just "male", the advice will be just as limited as above.
Here's a short list of questions to get you started.
What State is the car in?
What's the mileage?
What are the current mods?
Do you have the ability to do an engine swap yourself?
What's the condition of the rest of the car?
The car has just over 40k miles and had heads/cam.
The rest of the car appears fine, my guess would be that the car ran lean causing detonation.
It looks like most threads I read say its roughly 10-12k to get the car back to stock if the shop does the work.
#7
Drifting
I just quickly did a Google search for a short block and it looks like maybe $6-7K. So if your heads are ok and you can do the work yourself it could be cheaper. Until it gets at least the heads off it's hard to know the cost. Best case is detonation and a sudden failure so there isn't bearings and metal all throughout the engine and oiling system. Still have to clean everything but easier.
Steve
Steve
#9
Team Owner
#10
Le Mans Master
Have to ask, were the heads / guides checked? And just because it had "heads and cam" doesn't imply the heads were re-worked by a reputable shop.
An exahust valve failure is the number one cause of LS7's early demise. Unfortunately once the valve drops the piston usually explodes along with venting the crankcase and then it's potentially difficult to figure out if it was a piece of a broken piston (ring land) or if the valve dropped,
But when you pull the heads and if an exhaust valve is missing, let's chalk it up to the infamous guides were out of spec issue. And that's easy to validate - just check the guides on the other valves.
You probably could care less what the failure mode was at this point, but hey, if you can help your fellow Corvette owners making a mistake, all the better.
An exahust valve failure is the number one cause of LS7's early demise. Unfortunately once the valve drops the piston usually explodes along with venting the crankcase and then it's potentially difficult to figure out if it was a piece of a broken piston (ring land) or if the valve dropped,
But when you pull the heads and if an exhaust valve is missing, let's chalk it up to the infamous guides were out of spec issue. And that's easy to validate - just check the guides on the other valves.
You probably could care less what the failure mode was at this point, but hey, if you can help your fellow Corvette owners making a mistake, all the better.
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 08-22-2017 at 02:57 PM.
#11
Supporting Vendor
we could take care of you sir as we are the local az sponsor. if I can help at all feel free to email me. Joe@cordesperformanceracing.com
#12
Have to ask, were the heads / guides checked? And just because it had "heads and cam" doesn't imply the heads were re-worked by a reputable shop.
An exahust valve failure is the number one cause of LS7's early demise. Unfortunately once the valve drops the piston usually explodes along with venting the crankcase and then it's potentially difficult to figure out if it was a piece of a broken piston (ring land) or if the valve dropped,
But when you pull the heads and if an exhaust valve is missing, let's chalk it up to the infamous guides were out of spec issue. And that's easy to validate - just check the guides on the other valves.
You probably could care less what the failure mode was at this point, but hey, if you can help your fellow Corvette owners making a mistake, all the better.
An exahust valve failure is the number one cause of LS7's early demise. Unfortunately once the valve drops the piston usually explodes along with venting the crankcase and then it's potentially difficult to figure out if it was a piece of a broken piston (ring land) or if the valve dropped,
But when you pull the heads and if an exhaust valve is missing, let's chalk it up to the infamous guides were out of spec issue. And that's easy to validate - just check the guides on the other valves.
You probably could care less what the failure mode was at this point, but hey, if you can help your fellow Corvette owners making a mistake, all the better.
#13
Team Owner
I actually made a post when it first happened a few months ago. I never did figure out the root cause. The heads were 'fixed' by TSP and a cam was put in. Roughly 2-3 weeks later it went boom. It was cylinder 7 that blew so that's what makes me think it may have went lean.
#14
Le Mans Master
So a while ago my LS7 let go. A rod blew thru the block causing catastrophic failure. This happened a week prior to me getting stationed in Europe, thus, the car has been sitting back in the states ever since. I've spent a lot of time looking thru the forums trying to see what other people did in this situation. It looks like the 4 options are sell as is, put a used LS7 in it, put a built motor in it, or put a LS1/3 in it and take it to Carmax.
Unfortunately I've only owned the car a little over a year so there is still a lien on the car. I don't plan on putting a built motor in the car since I don't plan on keeping it forever.
After this expensive lesson my main goal is to get out from under the car and go back to something with a warranty.
I guess I'm just looking for advise as to what to do now that I've put myself in this situation. Thanks for reading.
Unfortunately I've only owned the car a little over a year so there is still a lien on the car. I don't plan on putting a built motor in the car since I don't plan on keeping it forever.
After this expensive lesson my main goal is to get out from under the car and go back to something with a warranty.
I guess I'm just looking for advise as to what to do now that I've put myself in this situation. Thanks for reading.
#15
Racer
Member Since: Jun 2016
Location: outside new orleans Louisiana
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i have a ls7 shortblock id be willing to let go. #1 cylinder was down to 90# beginging to have ring failure, cylinder wall looks good. Need to be reringed and possibly 1 new piston if ring gland is messed up.
i went big build to lsx when it failed
i went big build to lsx when it failed
#16
Supporting Vendor
this car one of the two by AEM that blew up?
__________________
Cordes Performance Racing aka "CPR"
Owner of AZ's premier LSX/LTX motorsports shop
http://cordesperformanceracing.com/
www.facebook.com/cordesperformanceracing.com
joe@cordesperformanceracing.com
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Cordes Performance Racing aka "CPR"
Owner of AZ's premier LSX/LTX motorsports shop
http://cordesperformanceracing.com/
www.facebook.com/cordesperformanceracing.com
joe@cordesperformanceracing.com
480-359-5914
#17
Team Owner
I recall one thread on here a few months back about that...appears to have been deleted.
EDIT: Found it...yep, that's the one. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...?highlight=AEM
EDIT: Found it...yep, that's the one. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...?highlight=AEM
Last edited by MTPZ06; 08-22-2017 at 04:03 PM.
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Chiselchst (08-22-2017)
#19
Le Mans Master
So a while ago my LS7 let go. A rod blew thru the block causing catastrophic failure. This happened a week prior to me getting stationed in Europe, thus, the car has been sitting back in the states ever since. I've spent a lot of time looking thru the forums trying to see what other people did in this situation. It looks like the 4 options are sell as is, put a used LS7 in it, put a built motor in it, or put a LS1/3 in it and take it to Carmax.
Unfortunately I've only owned the car a little over a year so there is still a lien on the car. I don't plan on putting a built motor in the car since I don't plan on keeping it forever.
After this expensive lesson my main goal is to get out from under the car and go back to something with a warranty.
I guess I'm just looking for advise as to what to do now that I've put myself in this situation. Thanks for reading.
Unfortunately I've only owned the car a little over a year so there is still a lien on the car. I don't plan on putting a built motor in the car since I don't plan on keeping it forever.
After this expensive lesson my main goal is to get out from under the car and go back to something with a warranty.
I guess I'm just looking for advise as to what to do now that I've put myself in this situation. Thanks for reading.
how much money did you put down plus how many monthly payments have you made plus how many payment months do you have. Grand total cost of ownership not including engine repair path you choose.
Then look at
1 cost of each engine replacement option such as ls1 route, new crate ls7, maybe an lsx 454, or buying a used ls7.
then decide do I walk away from the car by working with the bank to take the car back,, part the car out, sell the car as is, or fix it.
Then factor in how much do you like the car and if you sell it will you ever get back in another vette especially a z06. This is another cost of owernship to get another vette .
your answer will be what the math and how much you like the car dictates and how much of the labor you can do yourself.
If you are a young guy with lots of other debt that should also impact your decision
good luck and keep us posted.
Last edited by Mr. Gizmo; 08-23-2017 at 06:14 AM.
#20
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It's a 12 year old 2006 and already at the bottom of the C6Z valuation curve. The average private sale is between KBB (@29K) and Edmunds (@26K) in good to very good condition. Of course, that means a good engine.
The OP is not keeping this one and has no need for a car while deployed in Europe. He wants to buy something with a warranty when he returns. His main concern is to stop the financial bleeding.
It's far better to install a used bulletproof LS3 for $4K and take a $4K hit on the value with a quick sale, than spend $8K for a used LS7 timebomb that the buyer will have to spend another $3K on heads to avoid a repeat problem. Either way the OP loses $8K, but only has to put up $4K out of pocket for the LS3. The end buyer only needs to spend another $1K to make the LS3 run as quick as a stock LS7 Z06.