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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
That seems like a lot, I was expecting more like 5 or 6.
I wonder How much the lightweight flywheel for that would make up?
Too bad they don't list one like McCleod has for the Mustangs.
Maybe their lightweight flywheel is like that, but I didn't see a picture of the Monster's optional lightweight flywheel.
From stock to Monster triple, my buddy lost about 10whp. Even with the lightweight flywheel, the assembly is 5-6lbs heavier than stock.
The Monster twin is 4-5lbs lighter than stock. I didn't do a true back to back comparison when I installed my twin, so I don't know if there were any gains/losses.
That seems like a lot, I was expecting more like 5 or 6.
I wonder How much the lightweight flywheel for that would make up?
Too bad they don't list one like McCleod has for the Mustangs.
Maybe their lightweight flywheel is like that, but I didn't see a picture of the Monster's optional lightweight flywheel.
The Monster Triple isn't offered with a lightweight flywheel. I bought this clutch so I can beat on it hard not to get every last whp. It is a great clutch and I wouldn't think too much about losing a few ponies.
From stock to Monster triple, my buddy lost about 10whp. Even with the lightweight flywheel, the assembly is 5-6lbs heavier than stock.
The Monster twin is 4-5lbs lighter than stock. I didn't do a true back to back comparison when I installed my twin, so I don't know if there were any gains/losses.
The Monster Triple isn't offered with a lightweight flywheel. I bought this clutch so I can beat on it hard not to get every last whp. It is a great clutch and I wouldn't think too much about losing a few ponies.
Hmm, naturally I don't recall which unit I was looking at, but it listed two options for the flywheel, a "stock" weight unit and a lightweight unit.
The way I read that was the option only covered the part that bolted to the crank, holds up the starter ring and the clutch assembly bolts to.
I can appreciate sacrificing a few hp for bomb proof durability.
I would not run a lightweight setup if you have an aggressive cam. You will find that a rowdy car can turn into an unenjoyable trailer queen. Been there. If this were an option to where I could keep my car fun and streetable I would have a full blown Tilton setup rather than an RXT.
Last edited by User Omega; 11-20-2017 at 10:54 PM.
I would not run a lightweight setup if you have an aggressive cam. You will find that a rowdy car can turn into an unenjoyable trailer queen. Been there. If this were an option to where I could keep my car fun and streetable I would have a full blown Tilton setup rather than an RXT.
I agree. I only have 605 rwhp with a K501 cam and am very happy I went with the billet steel flywheel mated to my RXT 1000. With the added low torque I got switching to the ARH 2" from the Pfadt 1 7/8" headers, the car starts well in 1st in traffic now.
I would not run a lightweight setup if you have an aggressive cam. You will find that a rowdy car can turn into an unenjoyable trailer queen. Been there. If this were an option to where I could keep my car fun and streetable I would have a full blown Tilton setup rather than an RXT.
Yes, I can attest to the difference that makes.
It's only "streetable" in a car if it's 2500 Lb, or less, when coupled with a "hot" cam.
Deeper gears (4.10, 4.30, ... ) do tend to help, but the first 5 feet or so aren't a lot of fun.
It's a riot after that though.
I did that with my Model A, I know it's a Ford, but the physics are the same.
For a while I ran an Aluminum 11 Lb flywheel with a no longer available Hays 95-201 clutch set (softer than stock pedal, decent range of engagement at the pedal, once locked up it didn't slip, ever).
I had that clutch overhauled while I had it out (flywheel's starter ring had thrown a tooth).
It was less expensive to replace the flywheel than overhaul it (it needed the friction insert replaced and a starter ring).
I went back together with a 25 Lb steel flywheel, much nicer in the first 5 feet, only slightly less acceleration most of the rest if the time, but it does help, momentarily, on the 4-5 upshift; noticeable if you bump the limiter in 4th.
One thing that did surprise me though, now the car sounds meaner at idle.
With the old 11 Lb wheel the engine would die if you tried to get it to idle below 1000 RPM, now I can get it down to 875 ish and it both sounds and feels much lumpier there.
That makes me suspect I could have gotten it down to 700 ish with a 50 Lb wheel, but the sound is secondary to performance IMO.
I don’t see why anyone would buy a clutch anywhere close to stock weight. There’s simply no need to and you’re giving up free hp. As long as you keep the friction material friendly and the weight around 25-30lb there’s no reason to go any heavier. Besides overall weight the MOI has a greater effect on driveability.
I don’t see why anyone would buy a clutch anywhere close to stock weight. There’s simply no need to and you’re giving up free hp. As long as you keep the friction material friendly and the weight around 25-30lb there’s no reason to go any heavier. Besides overall weight the MOI has a greater effect on driveability.
I agree there's certainly some power to be gained here, but there is a point of diminishing returns IMO. Everyone's preferences may vary, but at your stated 25-30 lbs total assembly weight, that's roughly half the weight of the OE assembly (56.5 lbs). I think there's a good 10-15 lbs of weight that can be shed with little to no consequences; but after that, you most likely have to change your pedal habits (clutch/throttle modulation). A lightweight clutch is a lot of fun once you're moving; but to me, there's nothing worse than a clutch that behaves like an on off switch for a street driven car.
I agree there's certainly some power to be gained here, but there is a point of diminishing returns IMO. Everyone's preferences may vary, but at your stated 25-30 lbs total assembly weight, that's roughly half the weight of the OE assembly (56.5 lbs). I think there's a good 10-15 lbs of weight that can be shed with little to no consequences; but after that, you most likely have to change your pedal habits (clutch/throttle modulation). A lightweight clutch is a lot of fun once you're moving; but to me, there's nothing worse than a clutch that behaves like an on off switch for a street driven car.
I agree there's certainly some power to be gained here, but there is a point of diminishing returns IMO. Everyone's preferences may vary, but at your stated 25-30 lbs total assembly weight, that's roughly half the weight of the OE assembly (56.5 lbs). I think there's a good 10-15 lbs of weight that can be shed with little to no consequences; but after that, you most likely have to change your pedal habits (clutch/throttle modulation). A lightweight clutch is a lot of fun once you're moving; but to me, there's nothing worse than a clutch that behaves like an on off switch for a street driven car.
not saying you’re wrong at all. But I have driven a lot of clutch setups and honestly my previous one which came in at 34lb drove great, even with a tick master I could move the car without touching the gas. There’s more to driveability than just weight.
take a mantic for example. If you configure it right you can get a mantic down to 33lb or so. That’s much more than 15lb of weight off the oe assembly. Now most would agree that clutch drives phenominal and it does. To me a monster stage 3 for example drives way harsher than a mantic despite being close to oe weight and many consider that a good clutch. Rps also has a carbon twin that gets down to about 23lb and it still drives very well. You can have the weight loss and keep driveability you just need to be selective in your friction materials
as far as diminishing returns I noticed a big difference stepping down to 34lb on my last thing then a huge difference from that to a 19lb setup. The 19 from 34 was actually a bigger difference than oe to the 34 because of The greater loss of moi. Now I wouldn’t run that 19lb setup purely because it was sintered iron which isn’t friendly on the street
Last edited by redbird555; 11-21-2017 at 07:22 PM.
I agree there's certainly some power to be gained here, but there is a point of diminishing returns IMO. Everyone's preferences may vary, but at your stated 25-30 lbs total assembly weight, that's roughly half the weight of the OE assembly (56.5 lbs). I think there's a good 10-15 lbs of weight that can be shed with little to no consequences; but after that, you most likely have to change your pedal habits (clutch/throttle modulation). A lightweight clutch is a lot of fun once you're moving; but to me, there's nothing worse than a clutch that behaves like an on off switch for a street driven car.
Originally Posted by jayyyw
Especially for people that like to drag race.
there’s been multiple tests done on this and if you can learn to launch the car correctly you will go faster with a lighter clutch. The heavier flywheel is just a bandaid for the driver
there’s been multiple tests done on this and if you can learn to launch the car correctly you will go faster with a lighter clutch. The heavier flywheel is just a bandaid for the driver
A lot of this discussion was about putting around in street traffic and thus comments on modest lightening of the clutch/flywheel assembly. How the HCI engine runs with the tune also enters it.
Drags or road racing, light is better, on the street lighter than stock but with still some flywheel weight helps in traffic. My car won't run smoothly in 1st below about 12 MPH without de-clutching. Stock I could do 6 with the foot on the brake and no throttle from a stop, but that was 140 rwhp ago.
there’s been multiple tests done on this and if you can learn to launch the car correctly you will go faster with a lighter clutch. The heavier flywheel is just a bandaid for the driver
I think heavy or light have a learning curve. Neither seems easier to me at the drag strip. That lighter setup does seem to take throttle sooner. The lighter is just more of a pain in the *** in traffic for the minimal extra power you get. Unless this is some ***** out solid roller record chaser setup that never sees the street then I do not understand the point of going ultra light.
She's alive. My installer and tuner got my new engine fired up today and heat cycled it a couple of times and all is good.
I have had the Monster Triple disc clutch on my car for the past 4,000 miles and have more than a dozen 1/2 mile passes and probably more than 20 1/4 mile passes and a lot of hard street driven miles. He said that my clutch basically looks new and he was somewhat surprised that it showed no wear.
I ended up reusing my OEM engine mounts. I have less than 9,000 miles on my car so they should go for at least a few more years.
I also decided to go with the OEM head gasket, which will put my SCR at 12:1 and DCR at 8.65:1.
I am ready to get my car back.
Any dyno numbers? Have you had a chance to drive it?
Any dyno numbers? Have you had a chance to drive it?
Soon. I am still putting some miles on this new motor to break it in. I am dropping it off with my turner on December 26th to finish up my N/A tune and Nitrous tune.
I have a new TSP cam that Pat G spec'd for me and I will most likely switch this cam next week as well. I am pretty **** about how my car drives so I am trying to get a max effort N/A with what I consider good drivability. I am also going to switch my plugs and I think that I have a vacuum leak that is causing some backfiring that needs to be addressed.
However, if all goes well, I should have some dyno numbers within the next 2 weeks. I will share my N/A dyno as well as my dyno on a 300 shot once I get them.
11-19-2017, 11:46 PM
