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LS7 Oil Pump

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Old 08-22-2017, 09:49 PM
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hotrodrz06
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Default LS7 Oil Pump

2008 Z06 about to upgrade top end. Can I replace oil pump without removing oil pan?
Old 08-22-2017, 10:12 PM
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User Omega
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Yes. Many including myself have done this. You have two choices. You can use the wiggle method and leave the pan firmly bolted or you can just loosen the pan bolts enough to slide the pump off.

I used the wiggle method to get the pump off as I did not want to risk a leak later on. You simply take the bolts loose and then carefully and evenly wiggle the pump off of the snout. I used a piece of shim stock between the pump and the gasket to prevent damage to the gasket when reinstalling. Once the pump was all the way on I pulled the shim stock out.
Old 08-22-2017, 10:26 PM
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hotrodrz06
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Thanks. I have been gathering parts for a Mamo build. Just want to make sure I can handle the work myself before I get started.
Old 03-13-2018, 09:18 AM
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The Patch
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Originally Posted by User Omega
Yes. Many including myself have done this. You have two choices. You can use the wiggle method and leave the pan firmly bolted or you can just loosen the pan bolts enough to slide the pump off.

I used the wiggle method to get the pump off as I did not want to risk a leak later on. You simply take the bolts loose and then carefully and evenly wiggle the pump off of the snout. I used a piece of shim stock between the pump and the gasket to prevent damage to the gasket when reinstalling. Once the pump was all the way on I pulled the shim stock out.
Without loosening the oil pan bolts, how do you remove the small 10mm bolt that connects the pickup tube to the oil pump?

Thanks.
Old 03-13-2018, 09:26 AM
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spy2520
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LS7 pump doesn't have that. The upper half of the pickup tube is molded into the pan.
Old 03-13-2018, 09:29 AM
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The Patch
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Originally Posted by spy2520
LS7 pump doesn't have that. The upper half of the pickup tube is molded into the pan.
Ah yes, my bad. I should have stipulated I have an LS6 pump and a wet sump. So, dropping the oil pan is my only option.
Old 03-13-2018, 10:07 AM
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TXGS507
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Port/shim that thing while removed...
Old 03-13-2018, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 0H8Z06
Port/shim that thing while removed...
Yes, thanks for the advice. Supposedly the pump has been ported. I'll see upon removal. I say supposedly because not all the parts the manufacturer said I was getting are actually on the engine. Definitely going to shim it although I've been considering replacing it with a high pressure pump.

The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.

And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
Old 03-13-2018, 11:06 AM
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Those pressures "could" be related to the oil weight? What weight are you running. Also there is a guy currently selling an LS7 (KATECH) high volume oil pump for $500!!! If you are going that route I would jump on that one! Just my opinion....

As a comparison... My stock (ported/shimmed) oil pump runs 40-70 psi at any given time... Even when hot idle it never dips below 38 or so psi.....


Originally Posted by The Patch
Yes, thanks for the advice. Supposedly the pump has been ported. I'll see upon removal. I say supposedly because not all the parts the manufacturer said I was getting are actually on the engine. Definitely going to shim it although I've been considering replacing it with a high pressure pump.

The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.

And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
Old 03-17-2018, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by The Patch
Yes, thanks for the advice. Supposedly the pump has been ported. I'll see upon removal. I say supposedly because not all the parts the manufacturer said I was getting are actually on the engine. Definitely going to shim it although I've been considering replacing it with a high pressure pump.

The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.

And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
Your hot idle pressure isn't far from mine I get much higher pressure at speed though. over 2k I'm at 50psi and it climbs fairly normally. I can't explain why my idle pressure is like that. Also cant explain the delta between pressure at idle vs cruise.

Last edited by spy2520; 03-17-2018 at 01:07 PM.
Old 03-17-2018, 07:33 PM
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rio95
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Originally Posted by 0H8Z06
Port/shim that thing while removed...

Why do you recommend this with the info he posted? Do you think GM didn't adequately design the oil pump or something? Doesn't sound like he's changing anything that would require an oil delivery change.
Old 03-18-2018, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rio95



Why do you recommend this with the info he posted? Do you think GM didn't adequately design the oil pump or something? Doesn't sound like he's changing anything that would require an oil delivery change.
Any casting flash that can be cleaned up will improve flow. Any radii that can be created or softened helps flow. In the end its flow that keeps the bearings wet not pressure. Consequently, better flow will improve pressure too. Porting/cleaning moves the inner pump pressure out of the pump closer to the bearings due to reducing inner pump restrictions.
Old 03-18-2018, 12:59 PM
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To remove and reinstall an oil pump requires certain sequences as you reinstall to prevent binding. The oil pump and pan seal to the same gasket so how you re-tighten everything is important. Just make sure the pump is down tight against the pan gasket before tightening the pump bolts. Obviously, there isn't much movement and maybe nothing to be concerned with. But as caution make sure the pump is tight against the pan gasket.

A pinched pan gasket will lose oil back to the pan and not to the bearings
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Last edited by rabrooks; 03-18-2018 at 01:13 PM.
Old 03-18-2018, 09:53 PM
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User Omega
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Originally Posted by rio95



Why do you recommend this with the info he posted? Do you think GM didn't adequately design the oil pump or something? Doesn't sound like he's changing anything that would require an oil delivery change.

The only thing he could do that would maybe require a pump change top end wise would be if he decided to run axle oiled lifters. Some people have reported a 10+psi loss.
Old 03-19-2018, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rabrooks
To remove and reinstall an oil pump requires certain sequences as you reinstall to prevent binding. The oil pump and pan seal to the same gasket so how you re-tighten everything is important. Just make sure the pump is down tight against the pan gasket before tightening the pump bolts. Obviously, there isn't much movement and maybe nothing to be concerned with. But as caution make sure the pump is tight against the pan gasket.

A pinched pan gasket will lose oil back to the pan and not to the bearings
I had a pan gasket that looked exactly like that.

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