LS7 Oil Pump
#2
Melting Slicks
Yes. Many including myself have done this. You have two choices. You can use the wiggle method and leave the pan firmly bolted or you can just loosen the pan bolts enough to slide the pump off.
I used the wiggle method to get the pump off as I did not want to risk a leak later on. You simply take the bolts loose and then carefully and evenly wiggle the pump off of the snout. I used a piece of shim stock between the pump and the gasket to prevent damage to the gasket when reinstalling. Once the pump was all the way on I pulled the shim stock out.
I used the wiggle method to get the pump off as I did not want to risk a leak later on. You simply take the bolts loose and then carefully and evenly wiggle the pump off of the snout. I used a piece of shim stock between the pump and the gasket to prevent damage to the gasket when reinstalling. Once the pump was all the way on I pulled the shim stock out.
#4
Intermediate
Yes. Many including myself have done this. You have two choices. You can use the wiggle method and leave the pan firmly bolted or you can just loosen the pan bolts enough to slide the pump off.
I used the wiggle method to get the pump off as I did not want to risk a leak later on. You simply take the bolts loose and then carefully and evenly wiggle the pump off of the snout. I used a piece of shim stock between the pump and the gasket to prevent damage to the gasket when reinstalling. Once the pump was all the way on I pulled the shim stock out.
I used the wiggle method to get the pump off as I did not want to risk a leak later on. You simply take the bolts loose and then carefully and evenly wiggle the pump off of the snout. I used a piece of shim stock between the pump and the gasket to prevent damage to the gasket when reinstalling. Once the pump was all the way on I pulled the shim stock out.
Thanks.
#6
Intermediate
#7
Race Director
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Port/shim that thing while removed...
#8
Intermediate
Yes, thanks for the advice. Supposedly the pump has been ported. I'll see upon removal. I say supposedly because not all the parts the manufacturer said I was getting are actually on the engine. Definitely going to shim it although I've been considering replacing it with a high pressure pump.
The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.
And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.
And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2006
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Those pressures "could" be related to the oil weight? What weight are you running. Also there is a guy currently selling an LS7 (KATECH) high volume oil pump for $500!!! If you are going that route I would jump on that one! Just my opinion....
As a comparison... My stock (ported/shimmed) oil pump runs 40-70 psi at any given time... Even when hot idle it never dips below 38 or so psi.....
As a comparison... My stock (ported/shimmed) oil pump runs 40-70 psi at any given time... Even when hot idle it never dips below 38 or so psi.....
Yes, thanks for the advice. Supposedly the pump has been ported. I'll see upon removal. I say supposedly because not all the parts the manufacturer said I was getting are actually on the engine. Definitely going to shim it although I've been considering replacing it with a high pressure pump.
The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.
And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.
And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
#10
Yes, thanks for the advice. Supposedly the pump has been ported. I'll see upon removal. I say supposedly because not all the parts the manufacturer said I was getting are actually on the engine. Definitely going to shim it although I've been considering replacing it with a high pressure pump.
The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.
And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
The oil pressure acts oddly. At hot idle the pressure is anywhere from 15-20. The highest pressure I get at higher rpms is 37. So, pressure is definitely on the low side.
And, when cruising at ~2,200rpm the gauge will suddenly change from ~25 to ~30 then ~30 back to ~25. It does this very quickly. May be a sending unit problem.
Last edited by spy2520; 03-17-2018 at 01:07 PM.
#11
Burning Brakes
#12
Drifting
Any casting flash that can be cleaned up will improve flow. Any radii that can be created or softened helps flow. In the end its flow that keeps the bearings wet not pressure. Consequently, better flow will improve pressure too. Porting/cleaning moves the inner pump pressure out of the pump closer to the bearings due to reducing inner pump restrictions.
#13
Drifting
To remove and reinstall an oil pump requires certain sequences as you reinstall to prevent binding. The oil pump and pan seal to the same gasket so how you re-tighten everything is important. Just make sure the pump is down tight against the pan gasket before tightening the pump bolts. Obviously, there isn't much movement and maybe nothing to be concerned with. But as caution make sure the pump is tight against the pan gasket.
A pinched pan gasket will lose oil back to the pan and not to the bearings
A pinched pan gasket will lose oil back to the pan and not to the bearings
Last edited by rabrooks; 03-18-2018 at 01:13 PM.
#14
Melting Slicks
The only thing he could do that would maybe require a pump change top end wise would be if he decided to run axle oiled lifters. Some people have reported a 10+psi loss.
#15
To remove and reinstall an oil pump requires certain sequences as you reinstall to prevent binding. The oil pump and pan seal to the same gasket so how you re-tighten everything is important. Just make sure the pump is down tight against the pan gasket before tightening the pump bolts. Obviously, there isn't much movement and maybe nothing to be concerned with. But as caution make sure the pump is tight against the pan gasket.
A pinched pan gasket will lose oil back to the pan and not to the bearings
A pinched pan gasket will lose oil back to the pan and not to the bearings