MTPZ06

I swear someone recently on here did a tourqer 116 spec cam, but on a cam motion 8620 core. Maybe they'll chime in on results.

I highly recommend staying under .635" lift for valvetrain reliability/longevity though.

C6Z06Silverbullet

Yes it does sound familiar. Not to long ago?

big_mike_eu

That's what I thought, I'll need a tune. I was hoping that I could at least drive it to the tuner. Saw this video, guys doing a cam swap on a G8. At the end they were able to start it and have it run before getting tuned ( ), but I guess that depends on the cam itself. At this point I am hoping to be just lifter and tray replacement only, but if I end up needing a cam & springs I'll tow it to the tuner worst case scenario.

It's possible that I might have not seen a cracked spring. I'll have a look at them again before I dig in. Rockers looked fine. The only movement was side to side (very slight) only on the rockers that are not pushing open the valve. I would thing that is normal (having some play) given the OHV rocker design. Please let me know if I am wrong though.

Why did you end up changing the length of the pushrods? (Might be a silly question). With more aggressive cam, having a slightly shorter pushrod, wouldn't that decrease the lift? Or is that to help offset some of the other upgrades you did (valves)?

In terms of someone who works on Vettes in my area, we have Speed Inc (http://www.speedinc.com/). They are popular, but I have no direct experience with them. Sadly and thankfully the guys who took off my heads and sent them to WCCH couple of years ago are out of business. I am trying to avoid taking the car to a shop (trust issues with my other cars non GM). That's one of the main reasons why I learned to work on my cars, want stuff done correctly and cutting cost a little but. If I have to, I will take it to Speed Inc (as I don't know any other reputable shops in the area, haven't looked too hard though haha).

Just curious, learning the way of the LS, is there something specific you would check for? Or just a general inspection that everything looks good?

Thanks MTPZ06. I'll search around and see if I can find that thread.

C6Z06Silverbullet

Needed to change the push rods for the cam. You might be able to drive it to the tuners. I would do your research on shops and tuners. Look around in here for any guys that live in your area that know a reputable shop. I'm lucky that I have a great shop only 20 minutes from my house. No onel will take care of your car like you but I need the shop to be damm close to it.

Mordeth

You change the pushrods if your pushrod length checker indicates you should. This is when you change the length of the pushrods. Any change to the valve train should include a check for correct pushrod length (milling, cam, lifters, etc). It is not always the case that just a cam will require new pushrods, but you should always check.

MTPZ06

Agreed

C6Z06Silverbullet

Correct, which is why i changed my pushrods

big_mike_eu

Thanks for the educational responses guys!! I did some additional research regarding the pushrod length and it makes sense. I will check to see if my pushrods will need to be replaced. I am still debating on the cam. I guess at this point I'll see if my current cam is damaged and go from there. I haven't had a chance to work on the car yet this weekend, its been real busy getting stuff done around the house before the winter sets in. I'll post updates on how things are going as I start pulling stuff apart.

big_mike_eu

Question: If I end up staying with the stock cam (assuming no damage was done to the lobes) and replace only lifters and trays (assuming this is the issue) would you suggest to still check and ensure the push rods are correct?

Mordeth

Depends on the lifters. Different lifters require different amounts of pre-load. If your entire valve train is stock, cam remains stock and if the replacement lifters are LS7 OEM replacement lifters, then no, you shouldn't need new pushrods (99.9999999999999% probability).

But as it only takes a few minutes to check, it is simply good form to always check pushrod length with a length checker. Any changes to valve-train components/geometry should always include a check on pushrod length. The pre-load on the lifters is very important.

Dan_the_C5_Man

You are recieving good advice in this thread. That said, if you keep the stock cam and stock lifters, there is no need to be concerned with checking the PR length. Hint; GM built 30,000 of these engines and not a single one were checked for PR length during assembly.

meanjoe

MTPZ06

They didn't check guide to seat runout either.

Dan_the_C5_Man

You got me on that one.. Hell, they didn't check piston to deck height, cylinder bore concentricity, cam timing, bearing clearances - the only thing we know for sure is the torque of the fasteners (because the assembler held the button until the light turned green..). ****, it's amazing they run at all.

big_mike_eu

Hahaha I guess that makes me feel a bit better, knowing the quality control wasn't too strict. Although, I will still look over everything I pull apart (strings, pushrods, rockers, etc) just to ensure its in good working order. When its all coming out of my bank account, quality control will have to be stricter

big_mike_eu

Thanks Mordeth Would I need any other special tools aside from the COMP Push rod length checker? I know there's the rocker wipe pattern that would also indicate if a pushrod is too long or too short.

big_mike_eu

Quick update, haven't made much progress. I only took out the plastic PCV piping and intake (not the intake manifold yet). I was looking how to remove the radiator. Is it possible to take it out without having to disconnect the condenser (draining the Freon)? I am assuming I will need to remove the oil cooler as well as it seems to be in the way of removing the radiator shroud.

Mordeth

If you are **** like me then just a way to verify the length of the pushrod checker. You can count the number of turns and do the math to determine the required pushrod length, and then measure the checker with a micrometer to verify.

C6Z06Silverbullet

Ever make any more progress?

big_mike_eu

Sorry about the delay. I've had my hands full with getting stuff done outside as we had our potentially last nice day for the year in the Chicagoland area. I was able to make a little bit of progress earlier last week. I think I only got to work on it one evening after work. I took off the hood and front bumper in effort the get the oil cooler out. I still need to get the shroud out and the radiator. The oil cooler was a royal pain to get out. These cars are built very tightly. Potentially tomorrow or Tuesday I'll spend some time to figure out how the get the shroud and radiator out, without having to take off the AC condenser.