Coilover questions
#23
Racer
Ridetech
I have the Ride Techs on My C5 Z06. After you remove the factory leaf springs I would take my car and have it cornered weighed and set. Then I would have my alignment checked. I have my ride techs set at 3 clicks off of the softest setting and this is close to the factory ride on my car.
#24
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St. Jude Donor '11
No problem... glad I could help out... let me know how it works out
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#25
Racer
Siva,
This is really good stuff and I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to share it. I have done a fair amount of research into coilovers for our cars and the information you have provided is very useful to me and likely others.
I am basically down to either the Nitron R1s or the LG G2s. I've driven on the LG G2s on the track before and I liked them quite a bit. I already know what spring rates I want and don't intend on changing dampening.
Thanks again and much appreciated. I would be also interested to hear your feedback on the track if you do go with the Nitrons. You running any rear aero?
This is really good stuff and I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to share it. I have done a fair amount of research into coilovers for our cars and the information you have provided is very useful to me and likely others.
I am basically down to either the Nitron R1s or the LG G2s. I've driven on the LG G2s on the track before and I liked them quite a bit. I already know what spring rates I want and don't intend on changing dampening.
Thanks again and much appreciated. I would be also interested to hear your feedback on the track if you do go with the Nitrons. You running any rear aero?
Regarding the G2 vs Nitron R1, it essentially comes down to whether the G2's already have the spring rates you want. According to Anthony @ LG, the G2's only have a ~100 lb window in which the spring rates can be adjusted.
If the G2's are already in that window of spring rates you want, and you don't want to adjust the dampening on them, I'd go with the G2's.
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Mordeth (10-12-2017)
#26
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Hi Mordeth, I'm glad to hear my guide was helpful! I've updated it with a bit more information on price and what adjustments each coil is capable of.
Regarding the G2 vs Nitron R1, it essentially comes down to whether the G2's already have the spring rates you want. According to Anthony @ LG, the G2's only have a ~100 lb window in which the spring rates can be adjusted.
If the G2's are already in that window of spring rates you want, and you don't want to adjust the dampening on them, I'd go with the G2's.
Regarding the G2 vs Nitron R1, it essentially comes down to whether the G2's already have the spring rates you want. According to Anthony @ LG, the G2's only have a ~100 lb window in which the spring rates can be adjusted.
If the G2's are already in that window of spring rates you want, and you don't want to adjust the dampening on them, I'd go with the G2's.
Thanks. What caused you to select the spring rates that you did? Are you running rear aero? And can't you get the LG G2s in the same spring rate? Was it just a lack of dampening flexibility that is driving you away from the G2s?
#27
Team Owner
Just my opinion....
#28
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Before you order G2s...You talk to LG and go over your aero, uses, tires, etc. so they come up with the best possible formula taken from their years and years of experience racing vettes, and apply that to your set of G2s. Why mess with what an actual racing team has learned through development and experience? Let them set it up, throw them on, set the height, and leave them alone.
Just my opinion....
Just my opinion....
#29
Racer
I decided to choose those spring rates first based on what PFADT had chosen for their FeatherWeight Singles. Looking around some more, a lot of the more competitive coils had spring rates around that area. In addition, having slightly stiffer springs up front would suit the Corvette well given the tendency for oversteer. Finally, I know that spring rates that are *too* stiff are just gonna make the car harder to drive, so I settled on what seems to be a happy middle ground.
I've never gone more than 100 mph through a corner at the track, but I find the car to be decently balanced for the most part, EXCEPT during corner-exit. During corner-exit, I suffer from a lot of understeer. Do you have the same problem? My car is completely stock suspension wise.
#31
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10, '17
I'm not running any aero right now, and won't for a while until I improve my skills.
I decided to choose those spring rates first based on what PFADT had chosen for their FeatherWeight Singles. Looking around some more, a lot of the more competitive coils had spring rates around that area. In addition, having slightly stiffer springs up front would suit the Corvette well given the tendency for oversteer. Finally, I know that spring rates that are *too* stiff are just gonna make the car harder to drive, so I settled on what seems to be a happy middle ground.
I've never gone more than 100 mph through a corner at the track, but I find the car to be decently balanced for the most part, EXCEPT during corner-exit. During corner-exit, I suffer from a lot of understeer. Do you have the same problem? My car is completely stock suspension wise.
I decided to choose those spring rates first based on what PFADT had chosen for their FeatherWeight Singles. Looking around some more, a lot of the more competitive coils had spring rates around that area. In addition, having slightly stiffer springs up front would suit the Corvette well given the tendency for oversteer. Finally, I know that spring rates that are *too* stiff are just gonna make the car harder to drive, so I settled on what seems to be a happy middle ground.
I've never gone more than 100 mph through a corner at the track, but I find the car to be decently balanced for the most part, EXCEPT during corner-exit. During corner-exit, I suffer from a lot of understeer. Do you have the same problem? My car is completely stock suspension wise.
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SivaSuryaKshatriya (10-12-2017)
#33
Racer
Thanks. Yes, there is some understeer at exit. It is very hard to adjust for understeer at exit without changing suspension. I have found that I must take a later apex, essentially waiting longer on the throttle and not be as hard on the gas at apex to keep the car balanced and maintain front grip. Alternatively I can force the car to oversteer if I'm really pushing.
front camber: -2.0
front toe: 0
rear camber: -1.3
rear toe: -1/8th total (-1/16th each side)
Haven't had an opportunity to test the car out on the track, but so far it feels more balanced. What are you running?
Regardless of how low you can get them, you don't wanna lower your car more than an inch. If you do so, you'll start to adversely affect the OEM suspension geometry which will lead to poor handling characteristics. If you want to go lower than an inch, you'll need LG drop spindles, which I believe should 'fix' the OEM suspension geometry.
#34
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10, '17
That's good information, thanks. I'll have to try late apexing next time. I recently did an alignment as such:
front camber: -2.0
front toe: 0
rear camber: -1.3
rear toe: -1/8th total (-1/16th each side)
Haven't had an opportunity to test the car out on the track, but so far it feels more balanced. What are you running?
front camber: -2.0
front toe: 0
rear camber: -1.3
rear toe: -1/8th total (-1/16th each side)
Haven't had an opportunity to test the car out on the track, but so far it feels more balanced. What are you running?
#35
I have G2's. I love them. I used to track with them and never really wanted to adjust because they were really well tuned. I think I could have standed a bit more stiffness, but I have JOC front and rear sways so those could be upgraded I suppose. I haven't been tracking for over a year, but I absolutely love my G2's still, despite the coilover noise at low speeds. I still have my race pads on too, and the squeal is embarrassing, but it reminds me I'm driving a car ready to race!
I actually posted because no one has mentioned Moton. A very high end option, but they do have a club version that is not so pricey.
I always thought Penske and Moton were about top of the line, both with really good reps.
I actually posted because no one has mentioned Moton. A very high end option, but they do have a club version that is not so pricey.
I always thought Penske and Moton were about top of the line, both with really good reps.
#36
Originally Posted by 80atez
I have G2's. I love them. I used to track with them and never really wanted to adjust because they were really well tuned. I think I could have standed a bit more stiffness, but I have JOC front and rear sways so those could be upgraded I suppose. I haven't been tracking for over a year, but I absolutely love my G2's still, despite the coilover noise at low speeds. I still have my race pads on too, and the squeal is embarrassing, but it reminds me I'm driving a car ready to race!
I actually posted because no one has mentioned Moton. A very high end option, but they do have a club version that is not so pricey.
I always thought Penske and Moton were about top of the line, both with really good reps.
I actually posted because no one has mentioned Moton. A very high end option, but they do have a club version that is not so pricey.
I always thought Penske and Moton were about top of the line, both with really good reps.
#37
That's good information, thanks. I'll have to try late apexing next time. I recently did an alignment as such:
front camber: -2.0
front toe: 0
rear camber: -1.3
rear toe: -1/8th total (-1/16th each side)
Haven't had an opportunity to test the car out on the track, but so far it feels more balanced. What are you running?
Regardless of how low you can get them, you don't wanna lower your car more than an inch. If you do so, you'll start to adversely affect the OEM suspension geometry which will lead to poor handling characteristics. If you want to go lower than an inch, you'll need LG drop spindles, which I believe should 'fix' the OEM suspension geometry.
front camber: -2.0
front toe: 0
rear camber: -1.3
rear toe: -1/8th total (-1/16th each side)
Haven't had an opportunity to test the car out on the track, but so far it feels more balanced. What are you running?
Regardless of how low you can get them, you don't wanna lower your car more than an inch. If you do so, you'll start to adversely affect the OEM suspension geometry which will lead to poor handling characteristics. If you want to go lower than an inch, you'll need LG drop spindles, which I believe should 'fix' the OEM suspension geometry.
#38
Pro
I appreciate the feed back but I for sure want to drop my car more than an inch from stock. My Z06 is not something I track and never will .. This may sound stupid but I think I love the exterior lines of the Z06 more than what it is capable to do on a track. I couldn't find any data on how low the drop spindles could go.
#39
I run a very similar alignment, and have also found my car likes to late apex. square the corner off, and power out rather then long sweeping lines.
I run a Nitron rear damper and spring (basically a miniature coilover) on my sport bike. It's phenomenal, on par with Ohilins, and Penske. It's common practice in the high performance motorcycle world to have your dampers rebuilt annually, consisting of a proper cleaning, new seals, oil, and fresh charge of nitrogen. Are the coilovers being discussed serviceable?
I run a Nitron rear damper and spring (basically a miniature coilover) on my sport bike. It's phenomenal, on par with Ohilins, and Penske. It's common practice in the high performance motorcycle world to have your dampers rebuilt annually, consisting of a proper cleaning, new seals, oil, and fresh charge of nitrogen. Are the coilovers being discussed serviceable?
#40
Team Owner