Just got my ported MSD intake and have questions about if it is sealed properly
#1
Just got my ported MSD intake and have questions about if it is sealed properly
All four corners of the intake or sealed and flush but from the corner to the other corner there's a huge gap and I want to make sure this is what it supposed to look like. Also I provided a picture of to where all of the holes that have rubber seals and him looks like the rubber seal is loose just want to make sure that's what it supposed to look like . I saw a couple pictures of the intake and it looks like it's flush all the way around Thank you for everyone's help
Only sealed at corner bolt. It's supposed to have that big gap
Back gap
Also all of these it looks like the rubber seal is loose and coming out is this the way it supposed to look
Only sealed at corner bolt. It's supposed to have that big gap
Back gap
Also all of these it looks like the rubber seal is loose and coming out is this the way it supposed to look
#2
Le Mans Master
Ah.....no,. That doesn't look right at all - looks like the gaskets shifted
#3
#4
Burning Brakes
#5
I'll help you this week if you like you can look at mine that's wrong .....and I have new seals extras just take it off ill seal it .....
Last edited by RamAir972003; 10-15-2017 at 03:53 AM.
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441LSXTT (10-15-2017)
#6
Melting Slicks
The first bolts you put in are the top 3 in center of manifold. That will help bring the center in first. Then you do the other perimeter bolts. I would have you builder pull apart to make sure gasket has not moved. Make sure your guy torques them per instructions as they have a certain sequence.
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441LSXTT (10-15-2017)
#7
The gaskets should still be good correct
#9
#10
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Does not look correct. Just disassemble it. Takes about 10 minutes. Then remove and re-seat the seal/gasket and then re-assemble. It is a very simple procedure and does not need to go back to your "builder".
Here are the instructions from the manual to re-assemble. I can email the entire manual if you want.
Locate the supplied eight M6x1.0x30mm and two M6x1.0x45mm socket head cap screws and ID6.4xOD17x3mm thick washers. With everything clean and free of debris, confirm that the seal is in position all the way around the intake assembly, the injector tethers are in position and the three top stanchions have their seals in place.
1. Position the upper manifold to the lower assembly. Apply Blue Loctite® thread locker to the 14 fasteners. Make sure the seal and two assemblies are aligned properly and loosely install the 14 pinch bolts and washers and the three runner bolts/washers. Note that two longer M6x1.0x45mm bolts go in the bolt holes on the sides of the throttle body opening.
2. Begin the torque process starting with the three top stanchion shoulder bolts in the order shown in Figure 8. Use two passes on the three shoulder bolts to achieve 75 in-lb.
3. Torque the 14 perimeter pinch bolts in two stages to achieve 75 in-lb. Follow the sequence shown in Figure 8 on page 5. Re-confirm the three stanchion shoulder bolts torque values as well.
1. TORQUE THE THREE STANCHION BOLTS TO 75 lb-in IN TWO STAGES.
2. TORQUE THE PERIMETER PINCH BOLTS TO 75 lb-in IN TWO STAGES AND RECHECK THE STANCHION BOLTS.
Also, it will further compress when bolted to the head.
Here are the instructions from the manual to re-assemble. I can email the entire manual if you want.
Locate the supplied eight M6x1.0x30mm and two M6x1.0x45mm socket head cap screws and ID6.4xOD17x3mm thick washers. With everything clean and free of debris, confirm that the seal is in position all the way around the intake assembly, the injector tethers are in position and the three top stanchions have their seals in place.
1. Position the upper manifold to the lower assembly. Apply Blue Loctite® thread locker to the 14 fasteners. Make sure the seal and two assemblies are aligned properly and loosely install the 14 pinch bolts and washers and the three runner bolts/washers. Note that two longer M6x1.0x45mm bolts go in the bolt holes on the sides of the throttle body opening.
2. Begin the torque process starting with the three top stanchion shoulder bolts in the order shown in Figure 8. Use two passes on the three shoulder bolts to achieve 75 in-lb.
3. Torque the 14 perimeter pinch bolts in two stages to achieve 75 in-lb. Follow the sequence shown in Figure 8 on page 5. Re-confirm the three stanchion shoulder bolts torque values as well.
1. TORQUE THE THREE STANCHION BOLTS TO 75 lb-in IN TWO STAGES.
2. TORQUE THE PERIMETER PINCH BOLTS TO 75 lb-in IN TWO STAGES AND RECHECK THE STANCHION BOLTS.
Also, it will further compress when bolted to the head.
Last edited by Mordeth; 10-15-2017 at 10:49 AM.
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441LSXTT (10-15-2017)
#11
I am supposed to drop my car off next week and have the new intake cam heads and headers and everything else installed so I will have him fix it.
#12
Does not look correct. Just disassemble it. Takes about 10 minutes. Then remove and re-seat the seal/gasket and then re-assemble. It is a very simple procedure and does not need to go back to your "builder".
Here are the instructions from the manual to re-assemble. I can email the entire manual if you want.
Locate the supplied eight M6x1.0x30mm and two M6x1.0x45mm socket head cap screws and ID6.4xOD17x3mm thick washers. With everything clean and free of debris, confirm that the seal is in position all the way around the intake assembly, the injector tethers are in position and the three top stanchions have their seals in place.
1. Position the upper manifold to the lower assembly. Apply Blue Loctite® thread locker to the 14 fasteners. Make sure the seal and two assemblies are aligned properly and loosely install the 14 pinch bolts and washers and the three runner bolts/washers. Note that two longer M6x1.0x45mm bolts go in the bolt holes on the sides of the throttle body opening.
2. Begin the torque process starting with the three top stanchion shoulder bolts in the order shown in Figure 8. Use two passes on the three shoulder bolts to achieve 75 in-lb.
3. Torque the 14 perimeter pinch bolts in two stages to achieve 75 in-lb. Follow the sequence shown in Figure 8 on page 5. Re-confirm the three stanchion shoulder bolts torque values as well.
1. TORQUE THE THREE STANCHION BOLTS TO 75 lb-in IN TWO STAGES.
2. TORQUE THE PERIMETER PINCH BOLTS TO 75 lb-in IN TWO STAGES AND RECHECK THE STANCHION BOLTS.
Also, it will further compress when bolted to the head.
Here are the instructions from the manual to re-assemble. I can email the entire manual if you want.
Locate the supplied eight M6x1.0x30mm and two M6x1.0x45mm socket head cap screws and ID6.4xOD17x3mm thick washers. With everything clean and free of debris, confirm that the seal is in position all the way around the intake assembly, the injector tethers are in position and the three top stanchions have their seals in place.
1. Position the upper manifold to the lower assembly. Apply Blue Loctite® thread locker to the 14 fasteners. Make sure the seal and two assemblies are aligned properly and loosely install the 14 pinch bolts and washers and the three runner bolts/washers. Note that two longer M6x1.0x45mm bolts go in the bolt holes on the sides of the throttle body opening.
2. Begin the torque process starting with the three top stanchion shoulder bolts in the order shown in Figure 8. Use two passes on the three shoulder bolts to achieve 75 in-lb.
3. Torque the 14 perimeter pinch bolts in two stages to achieve 75 in-lb. Follow the sequence shown in Figure 8 on page 5. Re-confirm the three stanchion shoulder bolts torque values as well.
1. TORQUE THE THREE STANCHION BOLTS TO 75 lb-in IN TWO STAGES.
2. TORQUE THE PERIMETER PINCH BOLTS TO 75 lb-in IN TWO STAGES AND RECHECK THE STANCHION BOLTS.
Also, it will further compress when bolted to the head.
#13
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10, '17
I will email it right over. It has pictures in it too with the torque sequence to the bolts as well. Don't be afraid of taking it apart yourself if you have the correct tools. It is 14 perimeter bolts and 3 stanchion bolts. Takes 10 minutes.
The most important thing is: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS when reinstalling. Follow the procedure exactly, and remember the torque is in INCH-POUNDS not in FOOT-POUNDS. Mine did not have that gap when I assembled it, but it will further compress when bolted to the head.
The most important thing is: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS when reinstalling. Follow the procedure exactly, and remember the torque is in INCH-POUNDS not in FOOT-POUNDS. Mine did not have that gap when I assembled it, but it will further compress when bolted to the head.
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441LSXTT (10-15-2017),
CammedC6520 (10-15-2017)
#14
The gasket wants to stretch at the injector ports. You need to push them into position with a screwdriver or some other device as you start to pinch down on the lid with bolt torque. It can be frustrating..... A small dab of black RTV here and there will help hold the gasket in position at other areas too, but don't get too carried away with it (a little goes a long way).
#15
Le Mans Master
If it's from Mamo, mine didn't come "fully assembled". I took it apart to make sure everything inside was good and reassembled it myself. I could be wrong but from the pictures it looks like all the bolts are not even installed.
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441LSXTT (10-15-2017)
#16
Team Owner
Agreed. Looks like it is bolted together just enough to ship. I wouldn't expect it to be ready to bolt on.
#17
Drifting
Member Since: Dec 2015
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I will email it right over. It has pictures in it too with the torque sequence to the bolts as well. Don't be afraid of taking it apart yourself if you have the correct tools. It is 14 perimeter bolts and 3 stanchion bolts. Takes 10 minutes.
The most important thing is: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS when reinstalling. Follow the procedure exactly, and remember the torque is in INCH-POUNDS not in FOOT-POUNDS. Mine did not have that gap when I assembled it, but it will further compress when bolted to the head.
The most important thing is: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLTS when reinstalling. Follow the procedure exactly, and remember the torque is in INCH-POUNDS not in FOOT-POUNDS. Mine did not have that gap when I assembled it, but it will further compress when bolted to the head.
Thanks moderth
#18
That's why I was asking just making sure everything was OK I'm really excited to have everything installed my goal is about 625rwhp and I will be happy
#19
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Sure Cammed. I will send it right over.
They rarely come ready to install. You should disassemble to drill for the MAP sensor anyhow. Then reset the seal and bolt her down according the torque sequence outlined in the instructions.
They rarely come ready to install. You should disassemble to drill for the MAP sensor anyhow. Then reset the seal and bolt her down according the torque sequence outlined in the instructions.
#20
I just want to say thank you for everyone's help