[Z06] No Tach - Service Active Handling - Running Rough
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
No Tach - Service Active Handling - Running Rough
Hey everybody, first post to this forum but not my first time on car forums. I just picked up a 12 centennial z06 with 10k on it, drove it 900 miles home and it was fantastic! Got a mile from the house and stopped for beer (12 hour drive, needs rewarding!) and I slightly hit the ACC button and then slid on to the START button and the car started very slow. Once it started it was running a bit rough, oil pressure seemed a little bit down from what I was seeing before, the tach was not working and it has the 'service active handling and service traction control'. Basically it was pissed off!
I drove the mile home and have it parked cooling down while I enjoy a few beers before bed, I have done a little research but can anybody chime in with some input? I am hoping all is well in the morning : / and I didn't make a bad choice on this car.....
(Please don't tell me to 'search' I know the forums but I am looking for a little help after being awake nearly 24hrs )
First post complete!
Thanks,
I drove the mile home and have it parked cooling down while I enjoy a few beers before bed, I have done a little research but can anybody chime in with some input? I am hoping all is well in the morning : / and I didn't make a bad choice on this car.....
(Please don't tell me to 'search' I know the forums but I am looking for a little help after being awake nearly 24hrs )
First post complete!
Thanks,
Last edited by beckerspeed; 10-15-2017 at 05:38 AM.
#2
Le Mans Master
One plug wire popped off ?? weak battery? - electronics hate lower than normal voltage but I'm doubting this thought as you said you got it started so now I'm assuming it's charging at 14+ volts.
Last edited by RedZ4me; 10-15-2017 at 06:06 AM.
#3
Melting Slicks
My money is on spark plug wire, check both ends at least twice, burp them to get the air out, fairly common on our cars. Tach has me puzzled, will the car turn over after sitting, our cars are also known to eat batteries and when they are weak throw our cars into a melt down. Fairly confident it's one of these, let us know...
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Started right up and was fine this morning. Slept s few hours and had to go check hahaha. I think the poor start conditions caused an electrical snafu.
Only other thing I've noticed is the low rpm first gear clutch disengage cause a little transaxle rattle. It sounds like a throw out bearing but the more I read this can be normal. ??
Not bad for 900 mile cruise yesterday
Only other thing I've noticed is the low rpm first gear clutch disengage cause a little transaxle rattle. It sounds like a throw out bearing but the more I read this can be normal. ??
Not bad for 900 mile cruise yesterday
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Update:
Heat soaked start today (long drive and a quick errand inside) and it slow started again. Same issues. No tsch and about six seconds start with a bunch of suspension warnings.
I'm thinking the starter is upset?
Anyone got any input? My wife is losing faith in this car that we just got 🤔
Heat soaked start today (long drive and a quick errand inside) and it slow started again. Same issues. No tsch and about six seconds start with a bunch of suspension warnings.
I'm thinking the starter is upset?
Anyone got any input? My wife is losing faith in this car that we just got 🤔
#6
Drifting
Based on this information you should datalog voltage as you start the car when cold and hot. These cars are hell on alternators, batteries, and starters. What battery is in the car?
Welcome to the club.
Welcome to the club.
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I'll throw my meter on it and in the car for tomorrow. I've owned the car for 27 hrs now I have no idea. I do know that I love the car but man I'm a little pissed at 11k miles I'm putting money into it.
#10
Burning Brakes
Mostly because it's a 2012 with low miles. If it's the OEM battery it's at the end of it's life span. Usually 4 years is all your going to get out a OEM battery. The problem with today's testing equipment and gauges is that they measure voltage. Amps is what you need to start a heat soaked motor. Just because a battery measures 14 volts does not mean that it is a good battery. All parts stores test a battery by a load test. This is nothing more than a dead short to see if the battery will hold a load.
#12
Drifting
Mostly because it's a 2012 with low miles. If it's the OEM battery it's at the end of it's life span. Usually 4 years is all your going to get out a OEM battery. The problem with today's testing equipment and gauges is that they measure voltage. Amps is what you need to start a heat soaked motor. Just because a battery measures 14 volts does not mean that it is a good battery. All parts stores test a battery by a load test. This is nothing more than a dead short to see if the battery will hold a load.
I had an issue where my alternator was slowly failing and the voltage output would drop significantly at idle and it would display similar messages on the cluster. Once the car is running, the alternator should carry the load, not the battery.
This issue also resulted in slow starting when hot because the battery was drawn down from carrying load while running over time. With this said, I went with a Mechman 170amp and haven't looked back. 14.5 volts at idle hot or cold with a 10% underdrive pulley.
#13
The low rpm clutch clutch disengagement is normal my does it. I would replace the battery before you get stranded. Mine was doing the same thing . When hot it was slow cranking, then one day at the grocery store nothing . Had to ask for a jump . When the battery cant supply enough amps for the heat soaked starter the electronics don't start correctly causing wierd problems.
#14
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Battery tomorrow. Starter on order.
FYI. 4 hours of cool down = 12.1vdc at rest. 14.2vdc at coldstart idle. No codes and running fine.
Hot starts are slow starts with problems
FYI. 4 hours of cool down = 12.1vdc at rest. 14.2vdc at coldstart idle. No codes and running fine.
Hot starts are slow starts with problems
#15
Le Mans Master
As you crank it, have someone hold a meter on the battery, if it drops less than 9.5-10 V, you may have dead cell (or two) - time for a new battery.
#16
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Virginia Beach, VA & Port Charlotte, FL (snowbird)
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Hold off on the starter till you replace the battery. Replacing several items at once really isn't the way to go. A weak battery can cause a multitude of problems, like yours and more...
#17
Le Mans Master
yep. Replace battery. It’s 5 going on 6 years old. On these cars a new battery every three years is the way to go.
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#18
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Update!
Battery replaced (old battery was dated 9/15 and was a 800 CA - 650CC) with a new battery same specs..
Flogged it around the hills and came home, started slow but not as slow, but it was fine.. then drove it more and did the same test, starts but it is a bit slow. That first crank is a few seconds long.
What do you think?
Battery replaced (old battery was dated 9/15 and was a 800 CA - 650CC) with a new battery same specs..
Flogged it around the hills and came home, started slow but not as slow, but it was fine.. then drove it more and did the same test, starts but it is a bit slow. That first crank is a few seconds long.
What do you think?
#19
Burning Brakes
I had the same issue. This can happen when your battery is struggling to provide enough current to start your car. My guess is some start routine the car normally goes through can't run properly when u don't have enough juice. My battery is under warranty and even though it's about 150-200 CCA below a new one it isn't low enough for them to warranty yet even though it damn near doesn't start my car when it's hot out. Ugg.