TRSCobra

I've had a Mcleod RXT clutch with billet FW and tick master cylinder in my car 06 Z06 for about 13k miles now, done about 130 drag passes with it, and it's taking the abuse just fine.

I didn't think I had any complaints until I drove a friend's ZR1 with the stock clutch and it shifted like butter. Hell I jumped in the car for the first time ever and ran its first 9 second pass!

I know the TR6060 is a bit different but many say the T56 is a smoother shifting transmission. Mine feels like a semi truck in comparison to the 6060, and has always felt that way. Just takes a bit of manhandling to get into gear when rowing them hard at the drag strip. I just couldn't believe how much faster I could shift the Zr1.

Could this be my clutch? I remember reading something about the weight of the discs causing more stress on the synchros but I haven't seen much more about that.

FNBADAZ06

How close to the floor does the clutch engage ? I notice that my RXT1200 engages the clutch with just a small release of the clutch pedal off the floor, which suggest it's not fully disengaging when the pedal is fully depressed....which means the clutch is dragging. This makes the gear engagement not quite as smooth as it should be. You get used to it until you drive another car with a stock setup

TRSCobra

Yeah it begins engagement just above the floor but takes most of the pedal travel to fully engage. It doesn't move the car if I depress the clutch in gear and rev, so I figured it was fully releasing.

I'll see if I can adjust the pedal position a bit higher to push the master cylinder piston farther and see if it helps.

rio95

Even though it's been debated before I do not personally believe you can adjust the pedal position assuming the system is fully bled. Do you know something different?

I've had two different RXT clutches as well as a T56 and 6060. My current 6060 shifts worse when cold for sure but it does have a slightly shorter throw. I have run the same exact time with both and dont think there is a notable difference in how fast I can shift them. I think both shifted great especially when compared to my previous mustang. Every transmission feels a little different so maybe you just got the short end of the stick. Maybe try a different trans fluid.

Id try bleeding the clutch more to ensure its disengaging fully. My newest RXT engages high off the floor almost where my old one did after about 14k miles. In fact it was so high to start that I was and am concerned I'll run out of travel before the clutch is fully worn BUT the bearing clearance was good so I don't really know why it engages like it does. It works fine so far and feels great.

TRSCobra

I bleed the system every time before racing, and never see any air in there, so I doubt that's the issue. I've adjusted the pedal height with the master when it was installed, but I havent touched it since then.

I have royal purple synchromax in there now. Maybe I'll try something different before dropping $3k on a RPM unit.

jayyyw

My 6060 shifts real smooth. I installed a Monster LT1-S and it shifts even easier now. I use Pennzoil Sychromesh in my trans. I had a 1-2 grind when cold on the OEM fluid. Once the Pennzoil worked its way into the gear sets, the grind went away. Shifts even better when the fluid is hot.

rio95

Oh I'm guessing you have an aftermarket master then. Maybe that's related to your potential issue. I use an OEM master. I'm sure you're aware McLeod says to not use the tick master with the RXT. I believe it can work but if not setup right it can damage the clutch. Be careful adjusting the pedal higher so you don't deform the PP fingers by bending them too far.

TRSCobra

Yeah i have a tick unit in there, but when it got put together that info wasnt really out there about mcleod not recommending the combo. Its possible the fingers are already bent which could be the cause of the clutch not releasing fully at speed.

MTPZ06

Not saying its the root of your issues, but I think that stuff is absolute garbage. On my old C5Z (t56 equipped), I replaced the factory fill at ~18K miles with RP synchromax, and it was even worse for cold shifting (1-2 nibble) as well as when up to operating temp. More shift pressure required than with factory fill in all gears, even when up to temp. Hated it, and couldn't wait to drain it. Lasted in the car less than a month...like maybe 2 weeks. Went to Amsoil torque drive and it immediately cured the cold 1-2 nibble, and when up to temp the car shifted like a hot knife through butter. Shifter would practically fall into gear. Nothing but Amsoil from there on...

TRSCobra

Problem with trans fluids is it seems everyone has a different experience. When looking for which fluid to use, I couldn't find any that were universally liked, so I just picked one! Although I'm due for a fluid change anyways, so I'll give the amsoil a shot.

edmundu

I have used a few different trans fuilds, and the 2 best were Amsoil TorqueDrive & Redline D4. The Amsoil was better cold, but the Redline felt more cushioned when hot.

edmundu

I also think the weight of the clutches and their diameter make a big impact on shifting...Especially north of 7k rpm's!

I have the Centerforce DYAD, and it shifts really well til 7k, perhaps til 7.1k, But beyond that, it is hit or miss. I have had the clutch for 3 yrs, but the next one will be a little lighter than the 51lbs this one is.