e46m3c

Hi chaps.

Just costing up some td in the z06.

How many trackdays are you lot getting out of tyres. Pads. Discs on a stock ish car.

Will vary a lot of know on driving style. But ball park from a few people would be great.

DaOtherOne

Assuming you drive about 7/10 (having fun with low risk)

Tires: Fronts: 8 to 12, Rear: 12 to 16
Pad: Front 4 to 6, Rear 8 to 12
Discs: I replace them when I put new pads on because they are inexpensive
Underwear: 1 to 2 per track day.

Nowanker

e46m3c

Thanks that's great.

Where do you get your discs from? They are about 2k for me to import or about 450/pair to get a new ring made to match the hats.

DaOtherOne

Check your IM's.

Mordeth

DaOtherOne is pretty much spot on. My usage is almost exactly the same with the exception of a tad more usage from the rotors, likely due to my modified brake ducts and a 2 piece rotor. At 10/10ths cut everything in half (but double the underwear change frequency).

e46m3c

Thanks guys. Z06 a staying then

e46m3c

What bushes are you guys using? The afe ones? Ill drive it for a few hours to track so don't want to ruin it.

DaOtherOne

I upgraded to DRM shocks and got the optional bushings.

The bushings are made out of a harder poly material to allow less bushing deflection and longer bushing life

http://dougrippie.com/products/c6-co...hocks-for-c6z/

e46m3c

This is really great advice guys.

I am doing a refresh on the suspension and these shcoks and bushes are the same price as an afe bush kit.

It says on the website it will improve bumpy road handling. Something I'd like very much for British roads as they suck.

How did you find the change? I don't really want it stiffer. Does it match the stock spring rates well?

MTPZ06

The DRM Bilsteins are progressively valved, so they actually ride smoother than OE shocks, but stiffen up with more aggressive driving. They're great at keeping the rear tires planted when cornering or dealing with small irregularities in the pavement. Highly recommend them.

Bill Dearborn

My experience with consumables with a C6Z.

Stock rotors between 3 and 5 days of hard track usage before they crack. Some aftermarket two piece rotors 7 days before cracking.

Pads two days on stock pads. Aftermarket pads vary depending on compound and whether padlets or single piece pads. However, would typically get 4 to 6 days out of a set of aftermarket pads.

DRM shocks help keep rear in place on bumpy corners but are not a total panacea.

For tires I started with a set of stock GY EMTs that had 8k miles on them. I used them for 10 track days before they wore out. Not a bad tire from a track stand point. Once warm they have fairly good grip and if you look at some performance tests like the Car and Driver Magazine 2007 Lightning Lap a test driver in a C6Z ran faster laps with them than a GT3 with Michelin Cup tires. I also used a set of Nitto NT05 street tires and they were champs from a durability stand point. I got 26 track days out of them before they were so heat cycled they acted like I was driving on ice when driving on dry pavement. When I threw them out they still had legal tread. However, they were poor performers, that smelled bad (like horse manure), squealed loudly when pushed in corners and got very slippery after about 10 minutes of instructor level driving. Best drive to the track tire I had on the car was the Michelin Pilot Sport2 Run Flat. I also used Continental Slicks and R888s with some success.

I ran the car for six track seasons putting somewhere between 10 and 20 track days per season on the car. Average number of days per year was 15.

The only changes I made to the car were the addition of front brake ducts out to the spindles. Adding the DRM shocks, upgrading to Wilwood W6A and W4A front/rear brake calipers with Wilwood two piece slotted rotors. These rotors were the only ones that lasted compared to stock and a set of two piece rotors from a different manufacturer. Pad life increased with the Wilwood calipers and there was a larger selection pads I could use. If you plan on taking the car to the track changing the calipers and rotors is a safety issue as well as a performance issue. I was one of several forum members who had one of the stock caliper guide pin bolts come loose. On my car it loosened far enough the bolt hit the back side of the wheel spokes while on others the bolt came out on the other side of the caliper and the brake pad fell out of the caliper causing a brake failure. Not a good design. After a couple of track days the bolts freeze in the calipers and are almost impossible to get out. However, once the calipers get hot the bolts unfreeze.

The C6Z is an awesome track car and other than the brakes and seats is track ready. It will blow away most other cars on the track and will give headaches to drivers of C7Zs. Powering off a corner in third gear is nirvana. Pure enjoyment as you feel the engine pushing the seat into your back.

Bill

e46m3c

Thanks for the advice bill. Kinda wish you hadn't mentioned the brakes tho. I'll be paranoid now!!

Did you manage to avoid calamity when the pad fell out?

MTPZ06

^ That's what the extra packs of underwear is for.

Mordeth

Just don't change your pads using the ridiculous caliper pins. Leave them be and you will likely not have a problem. Change your pads by removing the caliper completely from the rotor using the two large caliper bolts located behind the caliper, and then pop the pads out. I have never had my pins move because I have never once touched my pins, and my pads are changed every 2-3 weeks.

e46m3c

Thanks. I always take the caliper off on every car as i always find it easer.

The only exception is my Mrs type R.

furiousox

This is how I've always changed my pads, good to know

e46m3c

Since you guys are on a roll of saving me money...what pads do you run? I am running Carbone Lorraine rc5. I've had 6 in the past and they were brilliant. £500 a set. What's that like 600 bucks.

Mordeth

The pads you should run depend on alot of factors.

What tires will you use? Street tires? R-compound? Racing slick?
What rotors will you use?
Is this a high speed track with heavy braking zones? How long will you run the car per session? How many sessions per day?
Do you tend to brake early and coast? Trail brake? Do you want an aggressive bite? Moderate bite?
Are you heavy on the brakes?
Do you mind squealing on the street? Will you be replacing the pads when the car is driven on the street?
How aggressive will you drive the car? Are you an experienced driver? New? Is this a 10/10ths effort or will you be lolly-gagging around the track? Something in between?
Is this a dedicated track car? Is it a daily driver? Something in between?

More details are needed.

Lacking additional details, here are a few suggestions:

Powerstop Trackday Pads: Cheap and effective
Carbotech XP12 front and XP8 rear: Not cheap but more effective

Rotors: DBA5000 front and DBA4000 rear. Expensive and very effective
Powerstop trackday rotors: Cheap and effective

Brake fluid: Motul 600, Motul 660 or Castrol SRF (don't skip this, to your own peril if you do)

e46m3c

Thanks.

How much better are the Dr shocks then? A must have improvement?

I'll be ordering some new Moog tie rods and track rod ends. Most likely the afe bush kit.

Will be about 1300 to get that lot to the UK. A fair bill. After fitment I'll get a full corner weight and alignment. Perhaps I should see how working parts improves the car before I go for the shocks?