TRSCobra

I've had a Mcleod RXT and tick master cylinder combo in my c6z for 3 years now. It's not recommended by Mcleod, but that info wasn't widespread at the time when I installed them.

The clutch had been good for 15k miles and over 130 drag passes, but after driving a zr1 with stock clutch down the track it feels mine may nkt be releasing all the way at high rpm shifts, causing increased effort when shifting.

Is this a symptom of the tick master cylinder overextending the pressure plate and bending the fingers?

The pedal releases all the way at the top, but if i adjust it then the clutch will slip due to constant pressure on the master cylinder piston rod.

redbird555

Pretty easy way to tell ifbthe clutch release all the way. Just jack the car up with the rear wheels off the ground. Put the car in 1st gear and and with the clutch in rev the car to 5k rpm and see if the wheels turn if they don’t the clutch release is fine.

The shift feels could be many things

redbird555

Btw I ran that exact setup for years and we’ll over 20k miles with no issues many others have too. If you have it adjusted right you won’t have an issue

TRSCobra

I did that and adjusted it just til the wheels didnt spin, but that tops the pedal out hard against the upper stop, derpessing the master cylinder piston just enough to cause the clutch to slip in higher gears on the highway.

Its like the clutch needs more travel than the pedal will allow.

sabastian458

On my setup, I started to run a Tick Master with a Mondter Billet Twin. Before I just threw it together and ran it, I made sure to measure everything before hand, shims behind the slave and all that. After putting together, I also measured for proper release distance between the plates while also adjusting the master. I NEVER was able to adjust the master down enough to get the right disk release and pedal distance. (I had someone in the car slowly pressing the pedal, while I was under the car with feeler gauges between the disks and plates) they would press the pedal until the disks were "released" and I would then look at the pedal and it wouldn't be near the floor.

All and all, I removed the tick and went with a stock master to insure that I didn't over extend the fingers. If you over extend, you blow the diaphragm and the clutch will stop holding the disk.

Another situation, I sold my unused RXT to a local guy who bent his RXT fingers with a tick that was over extended and it stopped shifting abruptly.

TRSCobra

Sounds like I need to put a stock master back in

FNBADAZ06

I think I'm just the opposite....my clutch does not fully dis-engage completely with the pedal pressed all the way to the floor. My car starts rolling with the clutch barely off the floor and I need to shift into 1st gear before going into reverse or it will grind. I think I need to shim my stock slave to get my engagement correct.

TRSCobra

Mine is almost like that too, but it doesnt fully engage until the pedal is at the very too. The engagement window is literally the entire pedal travel and then some.

Is yours an RXT?

FNBADAZ06

RXT1200 with the aluminum light weight flywheel. I think I'll need to shim the slave to get it to have enough stroke to get the clutch disengaged.

548chevelle

I have a Tick with a Mantic dual clutch. Seems to be ok. Clutch starts to engage when pedal comes up about a quarter of the way. Fully engaged by three quarters up. When pushing clutch pedal down it starts to disengage a quarter of the way down, fully disengaged three quarters down.

FNBADAZ06

I think my issues may be related to air in the clutch master cylinder and/or line running to the slave. At 93K miles, I'm going to go ahead and replace the master cylinder while I have the torque tube out, and I bought the Tick slave shims in case I measure the slave gap and determine that the slave needs to be shimmed out.

I have both a vacuum bleeder and a Motive power bleeder, as well as a remote bleeder kit installed on my car. The one thing that MAY have been contributing to my clutch engagement point is that I no longer have my clutch return spring installed on my car (been off the car for over 8 years), and I may not have been confirming that my pedal was up fully to expose the bypass port during my bleed process.
The new master is already pre-bled, and has fluid preinstalled in it from the manufacture, which should limit the chances of having an air bubble trapped in the system.

MeanLs3

This is the post I am referring to. Similar disengagement problems

TRSCobra

It ended up slipping in higher gears regardless of the adjustment. I ended up replacing the clutch with an RPS BC2, put in the new design stock master cylinder, and replaced the trans with a RPM LVL 7 TR6060.

MeanLs3

Damn, not what I wanted to hear. My rxt doesnt slip it just seems hard to shift and sometimes gives me second gear issues. Never 3rd,4th, or 5th. It also takes almost full pedal travel to disengage. Anyways, thanks for the reply man

TRSCobra

How long has it been in there? Did you shim it?

MeanLs3

Its been in there for 10000 miles now, a shop installed it so im not sure about the shims. Mcleod says you dont need shims but I find it hard to believe theyre all within perfect spec. At the time I didnt have the garage space but now I do, just such a pita to drop the cradle and all. Just did a cam and bolt ons, made 500whp and didnt slip on the dyno. just second gear issues and doesnt disengage until the top. Also chatter off the line but thats expected.

TRSCobra

Did it always act this way or just start?

MeanLs3

The rxt has always acted like that since day 1, the shop didnt even bleed the clutch properly so once I did that it stiffened up but still behaved the same as far as disengagement goes. I bought the car used with a bad master cylinder and had second gear issues with the stock clutch too. So second gear might be a synchro.

TRSCobra

I would think it needs a shim to bring the slave closer, or (just a guess) the tick overextended and bent the PP fingers. Either way I would pull it apart, replace the clutch, put a new design stock master in, snd have the trans rebuilt.