1st time track day recommendations
12-26-2017, 09:39 PM
#1
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1st time track day recommendations
I finally get to put my 06 Z on a track in about 3 weeks. It's a 2 day race driving school at the Buttonwillow track here in So. Cal.
Looking for any recommendations on my car set-up. I'm running new Pilot Super sports. Tire pressure recommendations? Also, should the car be in competition mode even though I'm a newbie?
Any past experience would be appreciated.
Thanks
Zoli
Looking for any recommendations on my car set-up. I'm running new Pilot Super sports. Tire pressure recommendations? Also, should the car be in competition mode even though I'm a newbie?
Any past experience would be appreciated.
Thanks
Zoli
Popular Reply
12-26-2017, 10:40 PM
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,734
Received 1,678 Likes
on
878 Posts
2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Hi Zoli,
Happy to help and am very glad you are doing this! Our cars were meant for this_very_thing. Do you know which configuration you are running at Buttonwillow? What you are doing is an extremely exciting thing, but also a very serious one. You must be prepared, especially if this is your first time on a race track.
Here is something I wrote to a member recently for his first track day, with things added for you.
The stock brake pads need to be inspected. They will hold up for a few days max (from full pad if driven hard). But be wary of brake pad fade as they were not designed to operate at length at the temperatures you will see on a race track.
Here is what you should do:
1) Flush/bleed brake fluid with Motul 600 or equivalent (Please don't skip this step)
2) Inspect pads and ensure they are at least 1/2 thickness left. The fronts take the most beating, by far. A good, cheap but relatively effective track pad are the Powerstop Track Day pads. An even more effective but more expensive track pad are Carbotech XP12/XP10
3) Inspect rotors for any large cracks or unusual wear
4) Inspect tires very closely. How old are they? (look at DOT date on the tire). Any damage anywhere? Any cuts? Any patches/repairs? How much tread is remaining (measure it exactly).
5) Flush clutch fluid using Ranger method with Prestone DOT 4 or Motul 600
6) Ensure all lug nuts are torqued to 100 lb-ft
7) Verify battery is secured and connections are tight
8) Empty car of EVERYTHING. And I mean everything. This includes radar detectors, floor mats, loose change etc and anything else that isn't bolted down
9) A routine nuts/bolts inspection of the suspension (shocks, sways, end links etc)
10) Inspection of engine compartment. Ensure everything looks normal. Verify spark plug wires are tight on the plugs and coils and all caps are secured
11) If you haven't changed your oil recently then change oil/filter. Mobil 1 5w30 is fine, or 0w40 or 15w50
12) Get an alignment. I can send you specs if you want. Please don't skip this.
13) Get a copy of a track map for Buttonwillow and review it
14) Get a listing of track flags and review/memorize what they mean
These are the essentials. I assume you already have a Snell SA2010+ helmet.
As far as your first time out in a Vette, here is what I tell new students/drivers at the track for the first time.
0) Set initial tire pressure to 28psi (cold). You are targeting a hot tire pressure of around 33-34psi. So you need to check/set the pressure before your FIRST RUN. Then immediately check the pressure when you get in with a tire gauge. Any tire above 34psi needs to be brought down. Any tire below it you leave. After your second run you check them again. The idea is that you get all of the tires to reach 34 - 35psi HOT. As the day progresses, the track heats up and you get faster the tires will continually get hotter and their pressure will continue to rise. You must keep checking them after every single run and if any tire is above 34-35psi then take air out of it.
0) Sit IN your seat, not ON your seat. This means your butt is planted inside the seat. Bring seat ALL THE WAY BACK laterally. Put on seat belt and then use cinch mode. This means you extend the seat belt ALL THE WAY out from the housing until when you release it you will hear it "ratcheting". Then tighten seat belt EXTREMELY SNUGLY. It will not move out anymore. Now move the seat forward until when you stretch out your arms straight your hands are "hanging" over the steering wheel by your wrists and you will feel the seat belt getting tighter. This is a good indication that you are close enough and forward enough. You should also be able to fully depress the clutch pedal with your RIGHT foot (another way to check you are forward enough). The seat belt should be extremely tight now and you will not move <as much> once you are on the track. Adjust all mirrors now as appropriate. You should test this at home.
1) You will be on sensory overload for your first few laps. This is normal. Don't panic, stay calm and keep speeds down as it will give you more time to process everything and react accordingly. Highway speeds are fine and you are accustomed to this speed already. Don't worry as soon you will be well over 100mph.
2) Keep your head/eyes up! Always be looking ahead and keep your eyes moving. The farther you look ahead the better. You will go where you are looking. Very very important! Head up and eyes ahead!!!!! Way ahead, through the corners and down the track.
3) Only tell the tires to do one thing at a time for now. ie,. brake in a STRAIGHT LINE, then turn (maintenance throttle), then accelerate in a straight line. You will learn advanced techniques later. Late apex when possible and appropriate (it is generally safer on most turns)
4) Be as smooth as possible. Don't hammer the accelerator, the brakes or twist/grip the wheel hard. Easy goes it.
5) Learn the line. Do it slowly, then build up speed. Hit your apexes!
6) Listen to the instructor. Even if it doesn't make sense. It will later.
7) Learn/memorize the flags and the locations of the flagging stations/corner workers. You should know and see them all on every lap! Check mirrors on all straights. Two hands on the wheel unless shifting!
8) Have fun! You are driving your car the way it was built to be driven. Our cars are absolute monsters on a race track. Not much short of purpose built race cars keep up with me.
Few other safety things:
a) Follow the passing rules and check your mirrors on all straights. For most events, passing is done offline.
b) If you put two wheels off the track, KEEP THE STEERING WHEEL STRAIGHT. Do not jerk your car back onto the racing surface as you will spin. Slow the car down, check for traffic, look for a corner workers/flag and move smoothly back onto the track. If for any reason you enter an uncontrolled spin then put both feet in (brake and clutch pedal) and do not yank on the wheel.
c) Keep your nannies on. Farthest you should go is into Competitive mode (take the first and second run with full nannies on as you learn the track, then go directly to competitive mode)
d) If you start to feel overwhelmed, then come in.
e) Drink lots of water and stay hydrated. Get a good night's sleep (if you can)
f) Be smooth!
g) Control, consistency, accuracy, smoothness are all individually more important than speed, and collectively result in faster (and safer) lap times. These four things result in speed (and quickness). The opposite is not necessarily true.
h) If the rear end gets loose, the nannies will kick in first (even in competition mode) and help you. For now, let them do it. All you will need to do is counter steer SLIGHTLY. Do NOT over correct or snap the steering wheel or snap off the pedal or onto the brakes. Be smooth. Slight counter-steer and gently back off the accelerator. The car will fix itself. Remember that the car knows where it wants to go, it is your job to coax it there (but never force unless emergency). If the car is doing something wrong (and it isn't broken), then you are doing something wrong.
i) Breathe! Make sure you are breathing normally. Do not hold your breath! On the straightaways you should do four things: 1) Check mirrors. 2) Breathe 3) Wiggle fingers and loosen death grip on wheel 4) Look far ahead to the next corner and plot your next move (where should you be on the track? where do you start braking? where do you turn in? etc).
There are many other things, but you should keep it simple for your first event in your Z06 (and yes, all of the above is simple - you should see what I do to prepare for an actual race). Good luck and keep us posted! Always makes me happy to see a Vette on the track. And you are welcome to contact me offline if you have any additional questions.
Happy to help and am very glad you are doing this! Our cars were meant for this_very_thing. Do you know which configuration you are running at Buttonwillow? What you are doing is an extremely exciting thing, but also a very serious one. You must be prepared, especially if this is your first time on a race track.
Here is something I wrote to a member recently for his first track day, with things added for you.
The stock brake pads need to be inspected. They will hold up for a few days max (from full pad if driven hard). But be wary of brake pad fade as they were not designed to operate at length at the temperatures you will see on a race track.
Here is what you should do:
1) Flush/bleed brake fluid with Motul 600 or equivalent (Please don't skip this step)
2) Inspect pads and ensure they are at least 1/2 thickness left. The fronts take the most beating, by far. A good, cheap but relatively effective track pad are the Powerstop Track Day pads. An even more effective but more expensive track pad are Carbotech XP12/XP10
3) Inspect rotors for any large cracks or unusual wear
4) Inspect tires very closely. How old are they? (look at DOT date on the tire). Any damage anywhere? Any cuts? Any patches/repairs? How much tread is remaining (measure it exactly).
5) Flush clutch fluid using Ranger method with Prestone DOT 4 or Motul 600
6) Ensure all lug nuts are torqued to 100 lb-ft
7) Verify battery is secured and connections are tight
8) Empty car of EVERYTHING. And I mean everything. This includes radar detectors, floor mats, loose change etc and anything else that isn't bolted down
9) A routine nuts/bolts inspection of the suspension (shocks, sways, end links etc)
10) Inspection of engine compartment. Ensure everything looks normal. Verify spark plug wires are tight on the plugs and coils and all caps are secured
11) If you haven't changed your oil recently then change oil/filter. Mobil 1 5w30 is fine, or 0w40 or 15w50
12) Get an alignment. I can send you specs if you want. Please don't skip this.
13) Get a copy of a track map for Buttonwillow and review it
14) Get a listing of track flags and review/memorize what they mean
These are the essentials. I assume you already have a Snell SA2010+ helmet.
As far as your first time out in a Vette, here is what I tell new students/drivers at the track for the first time.
0) Set initial tire pressure to 28psi (cold). You are targeting a hot tire pressure of around 33-34psi. So you need to check/set the pressure before your FIRST RUN. Then immediately check the pressure when you get in with a tire gauge. Any tire above 34psi needs to be brought down. Any tire below it you leave. After your second run you check them again. The idea is that you get all of the tires to reach 34 - 35psi HOT. As the day progresses, the track heats up and you get faster the tires will continually get hotter and their pressure will continue to rise. You must keep checking them after every single run and if any tire is above 34-35psi then take air out of it.
0) Sit IN your seat, not ON your seat. This means your butt is planted inside the seat. Bring seat ALL THE WAY BACK laterally. Put on seat belt and then use cinch mode. This means you extend the seat belt ALL THE WAY out from the housing until when you release it you will hear it "ratcheting". Then tighten seat belt EXTREMELY SNUGLY. It will not move out anymore. Now move the seat forward until when you stretch out your arms straight your hands are "hanging" over the steering wheel by your wrists and you will feel the seat belt getting tighter. This is a good indication that you are close enough and forward enough. You should also be able to fully depress the clutch pedal with your RIGHT foot (another way to check you are forward enough). The seat belt should be extremely tight now and you will not move <as much> once you are on the track. Adjust all mirrors now as appropriate. You should test this at home.
1) You will be on sensory overload for your first few laps. This is normal. Don't panic, stay calm and keep speeds down as it will give you more time to process everything and react accordingly. Highway speeds are fine and you are accustomed to this speed already. Don't worry as soon you will be well over 100mph.
2) Keep your head/eyes up! Always be looking ahead and keep your eyes moving. The farther you look ahead the better. You will go where you are looking. Very very important! Head up and eyes ahead!!!!! Way ahead, through the corners and down the track.
3) Only tell the tires to do one thing at a time for now. ie,. brake in a STRAIGHT LINE, then turn (maintenance throttle), then accelerate in a straight line. You will learn advanced techniques later. Late apex when possible and appropriate (it is generally safer on most turns)
4) Be as smooth as possible. Don't hammer the accelerator, the brakes or twist/grip the wheel hard. Easy goes it.
5) Learn the line. Do it slowly, then build up speed. Hit your apexes!
6) Listen to the instructor. Even if it doesn't make sense. It will later.
7) Learn/memorize the flags and the locations of the flagging stations/corner workers. You should know and see them all on every lap! Check mirrors on all straights. Two hands on the wheel unless shifting!
8) Have fun! You are driving your car the way it was built to be driven. Our cars are absolute monsters on a race track. Not much short of purpose built race cars keep up with me.
Few other safety things:
a) Follow the passing rules and check your mirrors on all straights. For most events, passing is done offline.
b) If you put two wheels off the track, KEEP THE STEERING WHEEL STRAIGHT. Do not jerk your car back onto the racing surface as you will spin. Slow the car down, check for traffic, look for a corner workers/flag and move smoothly back onto the track. If for any reason you enter an uncontrolled spin then put both feet in (brake and clutch pedal) and do not yank on the wheel.
c) Keep your nannies on. Farthest you should go is into Competitive mode (take the first and second run with full nannies on as you learn the track, then go directly to competitive mode)
d) If you start to feel overwhelmed, then come in.
e) Drink lots of water and stay hydrated. Get a good night's sleep (if you can)
f) Be smooth!
g) Control, consistency, accuracy, smoothness are all individually more important than speed, and collectively result in faster (and safer) lap times. These four things result in speed (and quickness). The opposite is not necessarily true.
h) If the rear end gets loose, the nannies will kick in first (even in competition mode) and help you. For now, let them do it. All you will need to do is counter steer SLIGHTLY. Do NOT over correct or snap the steering wheel or snap off the pedal or onto the brakes. Be smooth. Slight counter-steer and gently back off the accelerator. The car will fix itself. Remember that the car knows where it wants to go, it is your job to coax it there (but never force unless emergency). If the car is doing something wrong (and it isn't broken), then you are doing something wrong.
i) Breathe! Make sure you are breathing normally. Do not hold your breath! On the straightaways you should do four things: 1) Check mirrors. 2) Breathe 3) Wiggle fingers and loosen death grip on wheel 4) Look far ahead to the next corner and plot your next move (where should you be on the track? where do you start braking? where do you turn in? etc).
There are many other things, but you should keep it simple for your first event in your Z06 (and yes, all of the above is simple - you should see what I do to prepare for an actual race). Good luck and keep us posted! Always makes me happy to see a Vette on the track. And you are welcome to contact me offline if you have any additional questions.
12-26-2017, 10:40 PM
#2
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,734
Received 1,678 Likes
on
878 Posts
2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Hi Zoli,
Happy to help and am very glad you are doing this! Our cars were meant for this_very_thing. Do you know which configuration you are running at Buttonwillow? What you are doing is an extremely exciting thing, but also a very serious one. You must be prepared, especially if this is your first time on a race track.
Here is something I wrote to a member recently for his first track day, with things added for you.
The stock brake pads need to be inspected. They will hold up for a few days max (from full pad if driven hard). But be wary of brake pad fade as they were not designed to operate at length at the temperatures you will see on a race track.
Here is what you should do:
1) Flush/bleed brake fluid with Motul 600 or equivalent (Please don't skip this step)
2) Inspect pads and ensure they are at least 1/2 thickness left. The fronts take the most beating, by far. A good, cheap but relatively effective track pad are the Powerstop Track Day pads. An even more effective but more expensive track pad are Carbotech XP12/XP10
3) Inspect rotors for any large cracks or unusual wear
4) Inspect tires very closely. How old are they? (look at DOT date on the tire). Any damage anywhere? Any cuts? Any patches/repairs? How much tread is remaining (measure it exactly).
5) Flush clutch fluid using Ranger method with Prestone DOT 4 or Motul 600
6) Ensure all lug nuts are torqued to 100 lb-ft
7) Verify battery is secured and connections are tight
8) Empty car of EVERYTHING. And I mean everything. This includes radar detectors, floor mats, loose change etc and anything else that isn't bolted down
9) A routine nuts/bolts inspection of the suspension (shocks, sways, end links etc)
10) Inspection of engine compartment. Ensure everything looks normal. Verify spark plug wires are tight on the plugs and coils and all caps are secured
11) If you haven't changed your oil recently then change oil/filter. Mobil 1 5w30 is fine, or 0w40 or 15w50
12) Get an alignment. I can send you specs if you want. Please don't skip this.
13) Get a copy of a track map for Buttonwillow and review it
14) Get a listing of track flags and review/memorize what they mean
These are the essentials. I assume you already have a Snell SA2010+ helmet.
As far as your first time out in a Vette, here is what I tell new students/drivers at the track for the first time.
0) Set initial tire pressure to 28psi (cold). You are targeting a hot tire pressure of around 33-34psi. So you need to check/set the pressure before your FIRST RUN. Then immediately check the pressure when you get in with a tire gauge. Any tire above 34psi needs to be brought down. Any tire below it you leave. After your second run you check them again. The idea is that you get all of the tires to reach 34 - 35psi HOT. As the day progresses, the track heats up and you get faster the tires will continually get hotter and their pressure will continue to rise. You must keep checking them after every single run and if any tire is above 34-35psi then take air out of it.
0) Sit IN your seat, not ON your seat. This means your butt is planted inside the seat. Bring seat ALL THE WAY BACK laterally. Put on seat belt and then use cinch mode. This means you extend the seat belt ALL THE WAY out from the housing until when you release it you will hear it "ratcheting". Then tighten seat belt EXTREMELY SNUGLY. It will not move out anymore. Now move the seat forward until when you stretch out your arms straight your hands are "hanging" over the steering wheel by your wrists and you will feel the seat belt getting tighter. This is a good indication that you are close enough and forward enough. You should also be able to fully depress the clutch pedal with your RIGHT foot (another way to check you are forward enough). The seat belt should be extremely tight now and you will not move <as much> once you are on the track. Adjust all mirrors now as appropriate. You should test this at home.
1) You will be on sensory overload for your first few laps. This is normal. Don't panic, stay calm and keep speeds down as it will give you more time to process everything and react accordingly. Highway speeds are fine and you are accustomed to this speed already. Don't worry as soon you will be well over 100mph.
2) Keep your head/eyes up! Always be looking ahead and keep your eyes moving. The farther you look ahead the better. You will go where you are looking. Very very important! Head up and eyes ahead!!!!! Way ahead, through the corners and down the track.
3) Only tell the tires to do one thing at a time for now. ie,. brake in a STRAIGHT LINE, then turn (maintenance throttle), then accelerate in a straight line. You will learn advanced techniques later. Late apex when possible and appropriate (it is generally safer on most turns)
4) Be as smooth as possible. Don't hammer the accelerator, the brakes or twist/grip the wheel hard. Easy goes it.
5) Learn the line. Do it slowly, then build up speed. Hit your apexes!
6) Listen to the instructor. Even if it doesn't make sense. It will later.
7) Learn/memorize the flags and the locations of the flagging stations/corner workers. You should know and see them all on every lap! Check mirrors on all straights. Two hands on the wheel unless shifting!
8) Have fun! You are driving your car the way it was built to be driven. Our cars are absolute monsters on a race track. Not much short of purpose built race cars keep up with me.
Few other safety things:
a) Follow the passing rules and check your mirrors on all straights. For most events, passing is done offline.
b) If you put two wheels off the track, KEEP THE STEERING WHEEL STRAIGHT. Do not jerk your car back onto the racing surface as you will spin. Slow the car down, check for traffic, look for a corner workers/flag and move smoothly back onto the track. If for any reason you enter an uncontrolled spin then put both feet in (brake and clutch pedal) and do not yank on the wheel.
c) Keep your nannies on. Farthest you should go is into Competitive mode (take the first and second run with full nannies on as you learn the track, then go directly to competitive mode)
d) If you start to feel overwhelmed, then come in.
e) Drink lots of water and stay hydrated. Get a good night's sleep (if you can)
f) Be smooth!
g) Control, consistency, accuracy, smoothness are all individually more important than speed, and collectively result in faster (and safer) lap times. These four things result in speed (and quickness). The opposite is not necessarily true.
h) If the rear end gets loose, the nannies will kick in first (even in competition mode) and help you. For now, let them do it. All you will need to do is counter steer SLIGHTLY. Do NOT over correct or snap the steering wheel or snap off the pedal or onto the brakes. Be smooth. Slight counter-steer and gently back off the accelerator. The car will fix itself. Remember that the car knows where it wants to go, it is your job to coax it there (but never force unless emergency). If the car is doing something wrong (and it isn't broken), then you are doing something wrong.
i) Breathe! Make sure you are breathing normally. Do not hold your breath! On the straightaways you should do four things: 1) Check mirrors. 2) Breathe 3) Wiggle fingers and loosen death grip on wheel 4) Look far ahead to the next corner and plot your next move (where should you be on the track? where do you start braking? where do you turn in? etc).
There are many other things, but you should keep it simple for your first event in your Z06 (and yes, all of the above is simple - you should see what I do to prepare for an actual race). Good luck and keep us posted! Always makes me happy to see a Vette on the track. And you are welcome to contact me offline if you have any additional questions.
Happy to help and am very glad you are doing this! Our cars were meant for this_very_thing. Do you know which configuration you are running at Buttonwillow? What you are doing is an extremely exciting thing, but also a very serious one. You must be prepared, especially if this is your first time on a race track.
Here is something I wrote to a member recently for his first track day, with things added for you.
The stock brake pads need to be inspected. They will hold up for a few days max (from full pad if driven hard). But be wary of brake pad fade as they were not designed to operate at length at the temperatures you will see on a race track.
Here is what you should do:
1) Flush/bleed brake fluid with Motul 600 or equivalent (Please don't skip this step)
2) Inspect pads and ensure they are at least 1/2 thickness left. The fronts take the most beating, by far. A good, cheap but relatively effective track pad are the Powerstop Track Day pads. An even more effective but more expensive track pad are Carbotech XP12/XP10
3) Inspect rotors for any large cracks or unusual wear
4) Inspect tires very closely. How old are they? (look at DOT date on the tire). Any damage anywhere? Any cuts? Any patches/repairs? How much tread is remaining (measure it exactly).
5) Flush clutch fluid using Ranger method with Prestone DOT 4 or Motul 600
6) Ensure all lug nuts are torqued to 100 lb-ft
7) Verify battery is secured and connections are tight
8) Empty car of EVERYTHING. And I mean everything. This includes radar detectors, floor mats, loose change etc and anything else that isn't bolted down
9) A routine nuts/bolts inspection of the suspension (shocks, sways, end links etc)
10) Inspection of engine compartment. Ensure everything looks normal. Verify spark plug wires are tight on the plugs and coils and all caps are secured
11) If you haven't changed your oil recently then change oil/filter. Mobil 1 5w30 is fine, or 0w40 or 15w50
12) Get an alignment. I can send you specs if you want. Please don't skip this.
13) Get a copy of a track map for Buttonwillow and review it
14) Get a listing of track flags and review/memorize what they mean
These are the essentials. I assume you already have a Snell SA2010+ helmet.
As far as your first time out in a Vette, here is what I tell new students/drivers at the track for the first time.
0) Set initial tire pressure to 28psi (cold). You are targeting a hot tire pressure of around 33-34psi. So you need to check/set the pressure before your FIRST RUN. Then immediately check the pressure when you get in with a tire gauge. Any tire above 34psi needs to be brought down. Any tire below it you leave. After your second run you check them again. The idea is that you get all of the tires to reach 34 - 35psi HOT. As the day progresses, the track heats up and you get faster the tires will continually get hotter and their pressure will continue to rise. You must keep checking them after every single run and if any tire is above 34-35psi then take air out of it.
0) Sit IN your seat, not ON your seat. This means your butt is planted inside the seat. Bring seat ALL THE WAY BACK laterally. Put on seat belt and then use cinch mode. This means you extend the seat belt ALL THE WAY out from the housing until when you release it you will hear it "ratcheting". Then tighten seat belt EXTREMELY SNUGLY. It will not move out anymore. Now move the seat forward until when you stretch out your arms straight your hands are "hanging" over the steering wheel by your wrists and you will feel the seat belt getting tighter. This is a good indication that you are close enough and forward enough. You should also be able to fully depress the clutch pedal with your RIGHT foot (another way to check you are forward enough). The seat belt should be extremely tight now and you will not move <as much> once you are on the track. Adjust all mirrors now as appropriate. You should test this at home.
1) You will be on sensory overload for your first few laps. This is normal. Don't panic, stay calm and keep speeds down as it will give you more time to process everything and react accordingly. Highway speeds are fine and you are accustomed to this speed already. Don't worry as soon you will be well over 100mph.
2) Keep your head/eyes up! Always be looking ahead and keep your eyes moving. The farther you look ahead the better. You will go where you are looking. Very very important! Head up and eyes ahead!!!!! Way ahead, through the corners and down the track.
3) Only tell the tires to do one thing at a time for now. ie,. brake in a STRAIGHT LINE, then turn (maintenance throttle), then accelerate in a straight line. You will learn advanced techniques later. Late apex when possible and appropriate (it is generally safer on most turns)
4) Be as smooth as possible. Don't hammer the accelerator, the brakes or twist/grip the wheel hard. Easy goes it.
5) Learn the line. Do it slowly, then build up speed. Hit your apexes!
6) Listen to the instructor. Even if it doesn't make sense. It will later.
7) Learn/memorize the flags and the locations of the flagging stations/corner workers. You should know and see them all on every lap! Check mirrors on all straights. Two hands on the wheel unless shifting!
8) Have fun! You are driving your car the way it was built to be driven. Our cars are absolute monsters on a race track. Not much short of purpose built race cars keep up with me.
Few other safety things:
a) Follow the passing rules and check your mirrors on all straights. For most events, passing is done offline.
b) If you put two wheels off the track, KEEP THE STEERING WHEEL STRAIGHT. Do not jerk your car back onto the racing surface as you will spin. Slow the car down, check for traffic, look for a corner workers/flag and move smoothly back onto the track. If for any reason you enter an uncontrolled spin then put both feet in (brake and clutch pedal) and do not yank on the wheel.
c) Keep your nannies on. Farthest you should go is into Competitive mode (take the first and second run with full nannies on as you learn the track, then go directly to competitive mode)
d) If you start to feel overwhelmed, then come in.
e) Drink lots of water and stay hydrated. Get a good night's sleep (if you can)
f) Be smooth!
g) Control, consistency, accuracy, smoothness are all individually more important than speed, and collectively result in faster (and safer) lap times. These four things result in speed (and quickness). The opposite is not necessarily true.
h) If the rear end gets loose, the nannies will kick in first (even in competition mode) and help you. For now, let them do it. All you will need to do is counter steer SLIGHTLY. Do NOT over correct or snap the steering wheel or snap off the pedal or onto the brakes. Be smooth. Slight counter-steer and gently back off the accelerator. The car will fix itself. Remember that the car knows where it wants to go, it is your job to coax it there (but never force unless emergency). If the car is doing something wrong (and it isn't broken), then you are doing something wrong.
i) Breathe! Make sure you are breathing normally. Do not hold your breath! On the straightaways you should do four things: 1) Check mirrors. 2) Breathe 3) Wiggle fingers and loosen death grip on wheel 4) Look far ahead to the next corner and plot your next move (where should you be on the track? where do you start braking? where do you turn in? etc).
There are many other things, but you should keep it simple for your first event in your Z06 (and yes, all of the above is simple - you should see what I do to prepare for an actual race). Good luck and keep us posted! Always makes me happy to see a Vette on the track. And you are welcome to contact me offline if you have any additional questions.
12-26-2017, 10:42 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Change the brake fluid to DOT 4.
Remove everything loose in the car.
Leave all of the driving assist on until the instructor says you are ready to go to competition mode.
Remove everything loose in the car.
Leave all of the driving assist on until the instructor says you are ready to go to competition mode.
12-26-2017, 10:50 PM
#4
Race Director
That's hilarious! I was going to tell him to either wait until Mordeth posted or to get a hold of him. OP, you're in great hands. I'll get back to annoying my wife now. 
12-26-2017, 11:10 PM
#5
Advanced
Thread Starter
Holy cow Mordeth..... what an elaborate response. Thank you very much. Looks like I have my work cut out for me in preparation. I'll take this all in and I'm sure I'll have something for you in a while. I'll contact VARA and see if they have a track config for me.
I guess the only up front question is the wheel alignment. Car runs straight and the front tires were just replaced and no weird wear at all. You think this is still a must do?
I see you are in Rochester. My son and his family are moving there tomorrow. Looks awfully cold there right now.
Thanks again.
Zoli
I guess the only up front question is the wheel alignment. Car runs straight and the front tires were just replaced and no weird wear at all. You think this is still a must do?
I see you are in Rochester. My son and his family are moving there tomorrow. Looks awfully cold there right now.
Thanks again.
Zoli
12-26-2017, 11:11 PM
#6
Drifting
Mordeth hit it all on the head. The only thing I can say is to forget everything you think you know about driving. The instructor is there for a reason, keep an open mind and accept anything he/she has to say. The best thing would be to request an instructor with experience in a corvette or a similar car.
Last edited by Innovate; 12-26-2017 at 11:11 PM.
12-27-2017, 12:54 AM
#7
Race Director
Zoli, I would add only one thing. Go to Youtube and search for in-car videos of cars on track at Buttonwillow. They run different configurations there, so try to determine what will be used for your school. Any videos you can find using the same configuration will be helpful, but even more so if you can find C5 or C6 Vettes- especially Z06s. Getting somewhat familiar with the track in advance can make you a bit more comfortable when you actually get out there. Have fun! 
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Zogman (12-27-2017)
12-27-2017, 02:49 AM
#8
Le Mans Master
Lot's of good advice in this thread so far..
For a somewhat street friendly (but better for track) alignment - try 1.5 deg neg camber in front, 1.0 in back.
1/16 or less toe in the front, 1/16 in the rear is fine (just don't go below zero on either end - save that for when you have lots of track time under your belt).
Buttonwillow has many, many turns; you'll spend part of the morning learing which way the track goes. Find some in-car videos (there are many) and study them.
Have fun!
For a somewhat street friendly (but better for track) alignment - try 1.5 deg neg camber in front, 1.0 in back.
1/16 or less toe in the front, 1/16 in the rear is fine (just don't go below zero on either end - save that for when you have lots of track time under your belt).
Buttonwillow has many, many turns; you'll spend part of the morning learing which way the track goes. Find some in-car videos (there are many) and study them.
Have fun!
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 12-27-2017 at 03:02 AM.
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Zogman (12-27-2017)
12-27-2017, 07:19 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Holy cow Mordeth..... what an elaborate response. Thank you very much. Looks like I have my work cut out for me in preparation. I'll take this all in and I'm sure I'll have something for you in a while. I'll contact VARA and see if they have a track config for me.
I guess the only up front question is the wheel alignment. Car runs straight and the front tires were just replaced and no weird wear at all. You think this is still a must do?
I see you are in Rochester. My son and his family are moving there tomorrow. Looks awfully cold there right now.
Thanks again.
Zoli
I guess the only up front question is the wheel alignment. Car runs straight and the front tires were just replaced and no weird wear at all. You think this is still a must do?
I see you are in Rochester. My son and his family are moving there tomorrow. Looks awfully cold there right now.
Thanks again.
Zoli
Small world! Yea it is 4 degrees out right now. - 15 wind chill. Was around -5 yesterday. Just great! Do you know what part of Rochester they are moving to? I am in Penfield, which a small suburb just east of Rochester. Hope your son and his family's move go well (and I hope they dressed warmly!).
VARA is a great racing organization with some very experienced drivers. They race vintage cars, I think up to 1980 or something like that. Lot's of knowledge with these guys and gals. If Danny McKeever and his crew show up then you are in for a treat.
I do think it is a good idea to get an alignment, especially if the car has never or not recently been aligned. The car will enjoy this procedure, your tires will thank you and you will be better prepared. It won't go suddenly flying off the track if you don't, but for a lousy $100-$150 it should be done.
If you are properly prepared you will enjoy yourself much more, and not have to worry <as much>. At the track you want to spend your time learning and having fun, not fretting over the car. So you remove these variables from the equation. This is why preparation is so important. In addition, it keeps you safer and let's the car perform optimally. The only trophy you will win and take home is the shiny one you drove to the track.
I agree with Dan on the alignment specs.
Tell your alignment guy you want as close to this as possible:
Front:
Camber: -1.2 degrees
Caster: ~7.5 to 8.5 degrees
Toe: 0 or very slight toe out (~1/16th")
Rear:
Camber: -1 degree
Toe: 1/16" toe in
Here is the alignment from my car for when I run R-compound tires (NT01). You don't need this much camber or toe but it will give you an idea of what an alignment sheet looks like. The arrows tell you whether the toe is "in" or "out".
Also, here is a quick chart of what various alignment terms mean and how they change the suspension geometry. Also how to read and interpret tire wear.
You should familiarize yourself with this.
I would also suggest that you go here: https://speedsecrets.com/ and poke around some. Ross Bentley is a well respected driving coach/instructor. He puts out weekly podcasts (I listen to them all), has a whole section of driving tips, gives seminars around the country and also offers a "Performance Driving 101" e-course. I think it is around $80, but is worth it. I ask students to take the course before coming to a race track for the first time. I am not affiliated with Speed Secrets or Ross in any way, shape or form.
Good luck and keep us posted! Happy to help in any other way as well, as are others here (all good tips so far!). And if there is anything about your car or setup that you want to chat about off-line then feel free to message me. Happy to chat on the phone as well.
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Zogman (12-27-2017)
12-27-2017, 10:29 AM
#10
Race Director
You have gotten very good advice above for you and your prep.
What should you expect from your instructor? It is good after basic introductions that the instructor asks you what your goals are for the day - think about that in advance. Your instructor should tell you what his goals are for you for the day(s).
1. Keep you safe - if this isn't met nothing else will help. The instructor will know a lot more about what your car is doing and what you are doing to it than you do.
2. Have fun. Of course you will be nervous and excited and probably overwhelmed about all the new info you are getting, but you want to enjoy the day and have fun, too.
3. Learn as much about driving and the track as you can while meeting 1 and 2.
There is much more you can expect from the instructor, but one of the things I think is important is that you can ask questions and get answers that make sense to you. Be wary if the instructor just says "do it" but won't explain. If you have several instructors it is common to get some different and sometimes conflicting answers. An instructor should listen to you and then be willing to explain to you why the answers differ and why that day's instructor would like you to do it a particular way. That helps you build an inventory of knowledge and leads to your being able to learn on you own each time you go out on the track.
Have a great couple of days, the Z is an amazing machine and works very well with the tips you have been given in the other posts.
What should you expect from your instructor? It is good after basic introductions that the instructor asks you what your goals are for the day - think about that in advance. Your instructor should tell you what his goals are for you for the day(s).
1. Keep you safe - if this isn't met nothing else will help. The instructor will know a lot more about what your car is doing and what you are doing to it than you do.
2. Have fun. Of course you will be nervous and excited and probably overwhelmed about all the new info you are getting, but you want to enjoy the day and have fun, too.
3. Learn as much about driving and the track as you can while meeting 1 and 2.
There is much more you can expect from the instructor, but one of the things I think is important is that you can ask questions and get answers that make sense to you. Be wary if the instructor just says "do it" but won't explain. If you have several instructors it is common to get some different and sometimes conflicting answers. An instructor should listen to you and then be willing to explain to you why the answers differ and why that day's instructor would like you to do it a particular way. That helps you build an inventory of knowledge and leads to your being able to learn on you own each time you go out on the track.
Have a great couple of days, the Z is an amazing machine and works very well with the tips you have been given in the other posts.
Last edited by AzDave47; 12-28-2017 at 10:01 AM.
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Zogman (12-27-2017)
12-27-2017, 10:32 AM
#11
Advanced
Thread Starter
Great advice and thanks. So OK, I'll get the alignment but this car will still be used mostly for street use so should I deviate from stock settings for just minimal track use?
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
12-27-2017, 11:51 AM
#12
Le Mans Master
The 1.2 front and 1.0 rear settings Mordeth gave you, I wouldn't hesitate to run all year round. But then again, a portion of my street driving includes spirited mountain runs..
Now, if you feel like this track session is a "one time deal / bucket list" item, then sure, just stick with stock settings to ensure longer tire life.
However, most of us in this thread have the fever, and the only cure is more track time - misery loves company, come join us..
Now, if you feel like this track session is a "one time deal / bucket list" item, then sure, just stick with stock settings to ensure longer tire life.
However, most of us in this thread have the fever, and the only cure is more track time - misery loves company, come join us..
Last edited by Dan_the_C5_Man; 12-27-2017 at 11:52 AM.
12-27-2017, 02:15 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Pro Mechanic
Member Since: Nov 2013
Location: Ex DPRK, now just N of Medford, OR
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Excellent post by Mordeth for first timers! Can't add much to it.
Great advice about putting 2 wheels off and not jerking it back on. It's always preferred to ease the car off track and then back on, instead of spinning out of control wildly across the desert. I've experimented extensively with both approaches...
Buttonwillow is a great track to learn on, lots of runoff everywhere except watch out for the pit wall.
Enjoy!
Great advice about putting 2 wheels off and not jerking it back on. It's always preferred to ease the car off track and then back on, instead of spinning out of control wildly across the desert. I've experimented extensively with both approaches...
Buttonwillow is a great track to learn on, lots of runoff everywhere except watch out for the pit wall.
Enjoy!
12-27-2017, 02:28 PM
#14
Advanced
Thread Starter
The 1.2 front and 1.0 rear settings Mordeth gave you, I wouldn't hesitate to run all year round. But then again, a portion of my street driving includes spirited mountain runs..
Now, if you feel like this track session is a "one time deal / bucket list" item, then sure, just stick with stock settings to ensure longer tire life.
However, most of us in this thread have the fever, and the only cure is more track time - misery loves company, come join us..
Now, if you feel like this track session is a "one time deal / bucket list" item, then sure, just stick with stock settings to ensure longer tire life.
However, most of us in this thread have the fever, and the only cure is more track time - misery loves company, come join us..
That being said, what are your RPM shift points while on track? Are you regularly pushing to redline? I've had my heads done a couple years ago and I'm confident in my motor but I'm wondering what y'alls are doing.
Thanks again guys. Sorry if I'm being too **** about this.
Z
12-27-2017, 02:42 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,734
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
There is no problem with short shifting. I sometimes do it if I am trying different things on the track and I'm still twice as quick/fast as anyone else. Vette has massive amounts of usable power throughout the RPM band, is light, has a wide stance, wide tires, almost perfect weight distribution, excellent gearing, good suspension, good brakes and a wide torque curve, among other advantages. It was literally built for this exact thing (road racing) and doesn't necessarily need to be hammered on to perform well.
So if you want to shift between 6000 - 6500 you will be perfectly fine, still revving as high or higher than most, be safer and won't have to worry about bouncing off the rev limiter. No need to redline every gear until you are more comfortable. Focus on being smooth and learning the line.
And just to add one other thing: Feel free to make laps in just one gear initially. I can run all 3.4 miles of Watkins in just 4th gear if I feel like it (and I have) and still be faster than most. This will allow you to focus on other things, such as braking and turn in, hitting your apex etc. You will also be able to keep two hands on the wheel at all times and not worry about missing a gear etc. It is a perfectly fine way to start, and often times preferable.
So if you want to shift between 6000 - 6500 you will be perfectly fine, still revving as high or higher than most, be safer and won't have to worry about bouncing off the rev limiter. No need to redline every gear until you are more comfortable. Focus on being smooth and learning the line.
And just to add one other thing: Feel free to make laps in just one gear initially. I can run all 3.4 miles of Watkins in just 4th gear if I feel like it (and I have) and still be faster than most. This will allow you to focus on other things, such as braking and turn in, hitting your apex etc. You will also be able to keep two hands on the wheel at all times and not worry about missing a gear etc. It is a perfectly fine way to start, and often times preferable.
Last edited by Mordeth; 12-27-2017 at 04:28 PM.
12-28-2017, 06:29 AM
#16
Instructor
Things I work on/ look at with novice students:
• Understands rules, procedures and format of the driving school.
• Knows driving terms.
• Understands seat, driving position; Mirror position; Seat belts.
• Maintains proper head and hand position.
• Follows directions and responds to instruction.
• Observes pit line starter & watches traffic when leaving pit.
• Checks mirrors often.
• Signals and assists passing cars.
• Observes corner workers and flag status.
• Observes pit entrance procedures.
• Up-Shifts and down-shifts properly. Selects the appropriate gear.
• Smooth clutch release; Observes engine redline.
• Knows track layout and the proper driving line.
• Does not apex early. (hard not to when speed increases).
• Vision: Looks into turn, past apex and toward exit.
• Smooth turn-in and smooth turn-out. Knows largest possible radius.
• No abrupt steering inputs.
• No driver body lean.
• Keeps head up and vision far down track.
• Understands understeer and oversteer.
• Knows the location of run-off areas.
• Knows how to drive off-track. (knows to go - both feet in).
• Corner entry speed consistent and correct for driving ability.
• Maintains appropriate car spacing.
• Appears at ease driving on track.
Give your self time over the 2-day class and keep an open mind. Our sport has a long learning curve. Look for very small improvements as in 1/4 of a mile per hour. No one can feel 1/4 MPH change but that is what we look at. If you get in 50 laps over 2 days, that equates to 12.5 MPH increase... Impossible!
With the HP you have available, especially don't use it in the turns (your instructor will keep things under control). Learning the track and forget about increasing your speed is key. Your instructor will keep your skill level in line with your confidence level. You will get faster over time.
Have a BLAST!
• Understands rules, procedures and format of the driving school.
• Knows driving terms.
• Understands seat, driving position; Mirror position; Seat belts.
• Maintains proper head and hand position.
• Follows directions and responds to instruction.
• Observes pit line starter & watches traffic when leaving pit.
• Checks mirrors often.
• Signals and assists passing cars.
• Observes corner workers and flag status.
• Observes pit entrance procedures.
• Up-Shifts and down-shifts properly. Selects the appropriate gear.
• Smooth clutch release; Observes engine redline.
• Knows track layout and the proper driving line.
• Does not apex early. (hard not to when speed increases).
• Vision: Looks into turn, past apex and toward exit.
• Smooth turn-in and smooth turn-out. Knows largest possible radius.
• No abrupt steering inputs.
• No driver body lean.
• Keeps head up and vision far down track.
• Understands understeer and oversteer.
• Knows the location of run-off areas.
• Knows how to drive off-track. (knows to go - both feet in).
• Corner entry speed consistent and correct for driving ability.
• Maintains appropriate car spacing.
• Appears at ease driving on track.
Give your self time over the 2-day class and keep an open mind. Our sport has a long learning curve. Look for very small improvements as in 1/4 of a mile per hour. No one can feel 1/4 MPH change but that is what we look at. If you get in 50 laps over 2 days, that equates to 12.5 MPH increase... Impossible!
With the HP you have available, especially don't use it in the turns (your instructor will keep things under control). Learning the track and forget about increasing your speed is key. Your instructor will keep your skill level in line with your confidence level. You will get faster over time.
Have a BLAST!
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Zogman (12-28-2017)
01-19-2018, 12:18 PM
#17
Advanced
Thread Starter
Gentlemen, I just want to follow up and say thanks for all the advice and encouragement. I was able to participate in the VARA U last weekend and it was absolutely a blast. VARA put together a great itinerary that allowed me to learn how to run my car on track safely and efficiently. All of the instructors were great. They were very helpful and also very complimenting on my progress. Apparently they saw enough in my abilities to move me up to the intermediate group for Sunday and that was very rewarding for me. Danny McKeever was there for all of our classroom instruction.
Per your suggestions I prepped my car with the exception of the wheel alignment. I just did not have the time. In regards to tire pressure, VARA requested that I put my tire pressure to 2 lbs. over the door sticker. I stuck with 32 cold and stayed there all weekend. I was more worried about learning the track and did not have enough time to monitor tire pressures and the difference in the feel on the track. Baby steps I guess. I serviced the clutch fluid with the Ranger method and replaced all my brake fluid with the Motul Dot4 racing fluid.
I was able to find a couple instructional videos that showed the track in the configuration that VARA said it would be and that was very helpful. I knew the track with my eyes closed before I ever got onto it with my car.
The main thing I want to say though is about my car. OMG, what a fantastic machine and beast this thing is. The handling was not as good as the Lotus or Porsche's through the corners but as long as I kept it close in the corners the monster would just eat them up on the straights.
I worked on my lines with the instructors and found that hitting my corners and apexes was getting harder and harder the faster I went. I guess more track time will fix that. My last session was without an instructor and I thought I did pretty well.
Below is a link to my last session. Unfortunately it was a shortened session because a car had broken down in the first couple laps and then a red flag came out at the end of my 2nd lap for some reason. There was a Ferrari F430 3 cars ahead of me on the start and I made it my goal to see if I could hang with him. What you see is the end of the pace lap and the 2 laps of green followed by the red at the end of the 2nd lap. What a great race track and a fantastic time.
Thanks again and cheers
Zoli
Per your suggestions I prepped my car with the exception of the wheel alignment. I just did not have the time. In regards to tire pressure, VARA requested that I put my tire pressure to 2 lbs. over the door sticker. I stuck with 32 cold and stayed there all weekend. I was more worried about learning the track and did not have enough time to monitor tire pressures and the difference in the feel on the track. Baby steps I guess. I serviced the clutch fluid with the Ranger method and replaced all my brake fluid with the Motul Dot4 racing fluid.
I was able to find a couple instructional videos that showed the track in the configuration that VARA said it would be and that was very helpful. I knew the track with my eyes closed before I ever got onto it with my car.
The main thing I want to say though is about my car. OMG, what a fantastic machine and beast this thing is. The handling was not as good as the Lotus or Porsche's through the corners but as long as I kept it close in the corners the monster would just eat them up on the straights.
I worked on my lines with the instructors and found that hitting my corners and apexes was getting harder and harder the faster I went. I guess more track time will fix that. My last session was without an instructor and I thought I did pretty well.
Below is a link to my last session. Unfortunately it was a shortened session because a car had broken down in the first couple laps and then a red flag came out at the end of my 2nd lap for some reason. There was a Ferrari F430 3 cars ahead of me on the start and I made it my goal to see if I could hang with him. What you see is the end of the pace lap and the 2 laps of green followed by the red at the end of the 2nd lap. What a great race track and a fantastic time.
Thanks again and cheers
Zoli
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DPW_ (01-19-2018)
01-19-2018, 12:29 PM
#18
Racer
looks like fun, track day is on my list. Good driving!
What was the top speed on the straights?
What was the top speed on the straights?
01-19-2018, 12:47 PM
#19
Advanced
Thread Starter
01-19-2018, 04:36 PM
#20
Race Director
Very good first weekend out on the track. It is common to start to lose the line as you pick up speed, and all the more important to keep the lines tight as you do pick up speed. That configuration looks like it would pay back big time on the stopwatch for running very precise lines.
Keep working at it, it can be so rewarding.
Keep working at it, it can be so rewarding.
