When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Anybody ever cut in a couple full port ball valves and just leave them closed when street driven and open them when track?
It's a little dangerous to do this because if you mess up and leave the wrong valve closed, you would get no oil flow and blow up your engine.
The best way to do it would be to connect the two lines together with a valve in the middle. So the valve is basically opening and closing a bypass/short circuit passage, which is exactly what our thermostats do, except they do it automatically. This way whether you accidentally leave the ball valve open or closed, your engine still gets oil no matter what, but the oil cooler will be mostly bypassed if the valve is left open.
Last edited by ImprovedRacing; 01-25-2018 at 11:38 AM.
It's a little dangerous to do this because if you mess up and leave the wrong valve closed, you would get no oil flow and blow up your engine.
I agree that it's not a good idea because of the possibility of no oil, but per the GM diagram, there's a relief in case the external oil cooler is plugged, just like there's a relief for the oil filter - in case it's plugged.
I agree that it's not a good idea because of the possibility of no oil, but per the GM diagram, there's a relief in case the external oil cooler is plugged, just like there's a relief for the oil filter - in case it's plugged.
Yeah that will save but, but the flow will be severely restricted. I still wouldn't want to risk it.
If you want to do a bypass, just pay for the improved stuff. If $300-600 is really a lot of money for you, then racing or owning a c6z probably isn't a good idea.
Improved Racing makes a bolt-on oil line and thermostat kit that solves this issue.
There are two thermostat versions available. You can choose the option that will give you the best header clearance for your specific headers. Here are the links:
While I DO love Improved Racing's products, this product DOES NOT increase oil operating temperatures in street driving. In fact, my oil temperatures remained the same as the stock configuration. I even tried swapping to the higher 100*C element....and this thermostat still did not increase oil temps above stock.
I installed this product and ended up selling it to a friend of mine. I now have a ZR1 oil cooler and enjoy warmer oil temperatures in street driving.
Just trying to be honest about my experience with this exact product.
While I DO love Improved Racing's products, this product DOES NOT increase oil operating temperatures in street driving. In fact, my oil temperatures remained the same as the stock configuration. I even tried swapping to the higher 100*C element....and this thermostat still did not increase oil temps above stock.
I installed this product and ended up selling it to a friend of mine. I now have a ZR1 oil cooler and enjoy warmer oil temperatures in street driving.
Just trying to be honest about my experience with this exact product.
I will say for oil temps, my block off worked MUCH MUCH MUCH better than the improved T-stat and cooler. Only reason I did that is for 115+f weather because of the blower, thicker intercooler, etc then coolant temps shot up, so the extra oil cooling is nice. When it isn't summer in Phoenix, I actually block off the cooler since it only takes ~10 minutes to block it off or leave it open for cooling. The block off got temps up nice and quick, and they hovered ~180-210 depending on coolant temp, but basically mimiced coolant temp with the block off.
Hmmm interesting... Now you've got me contemplating selling my kit and just doing a block off.
Could I do a block off, pull the lines and leave the cooler in place with caps over the holes so that I could install the lines back on if I get a chance to run a couple track days this year?
While I DO love Improved Racing's products, this product DOES NOT increase oil operating temperatures in street driving. In fact, my oil temperatures remained the same as the stock configuration. I even tried swapping to the higher 100*C element....and this thermostat still did not increase oil temps above stock.
I installed this product and ended up selling it to a friend of mine. I now have a ZR1 oil cooler and enjoy warmer oil temperatures in street driving.
Just trying to be honest about my experience with this exact product.
I understand this was your experience, but I just don't see how that can be possible. Are you reading your temps from the DIC? Did you see the previous post about the DIC not relaying the correct temperatures (the ECU is manipulating the output). Other customers that have datalogged the OBDII temp data have seen an improvement.
Is the thermostat letting some oil through even when closed? If not I guess I don't understand either how it would differ from the block off till the thermostat opens...
Is the thermostat letting some oil through even when closed? If not I guess I don't understand either how it would differ from the block off till the thermostat opens...
With a thermostat that is properly installed and functioning, the difference during warm-up should be (and in my case is) effectively equivalent to that of a cooler permanently blocked with a plate. According to the manual (EGM-112 and EGM-113), the thermostat blocks 90%-95% of the flow when closed. However, "Should the thermostat fail, circulation will not be blocked," resulting in no difference as Josh B. reported.
Originally Posted by ImprovedRacing
I understand this was your experience, but I just don't see how that can be possible. Are you reading your temps from the DIC? Did you see the previous post about the DIC not relaying the correct temperatures (the ECU is manipulating the output). Other customers that have datalogged the OBDII temp data have seen an improvement.
The data at the second link below suggest that the DIC is measured while the PID is estimated (or manipulated). The data at the first link below demonstrate that a substantial improvement is observed regardless.
The graph posted in the EC6-610 listing reflects the computed PID values logged via OBD, which at normal operating temperatures are considerably lower than the measured sensor values displayed by the DIC (second link above), so ignore the absolute temperatures and note the relative difference between stock (yellow) and thermostat (red).
Originally Posted by bjmsam
With the EGM-113 installed, it took less time for the oil to reach a higher temperature as expected. When the DIC leveled off at 183-5°F, the OBD reported 157-162°F (both reflect a significant improvement over stock). Upon returning home with the oil at that temperature, I shut off the engine and immediately aimed an IR thermometer down into the dry sump dip stick hole with a reading of 195°F.
Last edited by bjmsam; 01-27-2018 at 06:59 AM.
Reason: added references to manual
Is the thermostat letting some oil through even when closed? If not I guess I don't understand either how it would differ from the block off till the thermostat opens...
Good Question.
Improved Racing, is there any flow prior to the chosen temp?
Improved Racing makes a bolt-on oil line and thermostat kit that solves this issue.
There are two thermostat versions available. You can choose the option that will give you the best header clearance for your specific headers. Here are the links:
I have no motive to make any of this up. I consider myself an Improved Racing products customer, I love the products that work well. This product did not work as stated.
My temperature readings are all from the DIC. All 3 of my cooler setups.
Stock: Level A
IR Therm: Level A
ZR1: Level B
When the sensor is the exact same it is eliminated as a variable. The IR Therm temps were the same as the stock setup. The ZR1 was significantly higher. This could not be due to any theoretical difference in temperatures between the crankcase and the sump tank.
I won't belabor the point here but I want buyers to be aware of my experience before making a decision to purchase.
I have no motive to make any of this up. I consider myself an Improved Racing products customer, I love the products that work well. This product did not work as stated.
No one is accusing you of that or doubting your report. My hypothesis is above and would be straightforward to test.
Meh, no reason to over think this in my opinion. I got the unbalanced covers and use them both year round. No cooling issues in the summer. I like that it takes 2 minutes to take one or both of the covers off of need be. I also purchased the block off, to install at my next oil change..... but the covers didn't increase coolant temps so i just run that way. Anything more on a street car is over thinking and over spending.
No one is accusing you of that or doubting your report. My hypothesis is above and would be straightforward to test.
Thanks for clearing that up friend. There is theory and there is reality. I couldn’t make heads or tails of what your explanation was for my findings other than a guess that my thermostat was malfunctioning. You should invest the money into the parts and installation. Then test it. I helped a friend install one also, same temps as stock. His must have been malfunctioning too I guess.
01-25-2018, 11:38 AM
