Larry Myers

Wow, must be really cold in Winnipeg. wantblu, you need to get inside and warm up.

phils C5 vette

That's what im running now.

Im ok with overkill maintenance because the master cylinder doesn't take much fluid to change every couple months.

Pb82 Ronin

Motul RBF here.

racebum

it doesn't really matter. what matters is how clean you keep it. if you have crud in the bottom of the master and a sticky pedal you can

A. bleed the system
B. ranger the system

if you choose B you may have to do it multiple times over the course of a few thousand miles. usually rangering every tank of gas for a few months will bring back a sticky one. this will take a quart or two of fluid

once you do one or the other suck out all the old fluid in the clutch master every month or 1000 miles. not allowing accumulation of crud will solve the issue for good or until you make more power

my personal fav fluid is ATE typ200. it's inexpensive on amazon and is a great dot4.

l98tpi

phils C5 vette

Yes the replacement master is black. Mine was replaced after I bought the car by the dealership. It probably makes the fluid look darker, But since replacing the master, Ive changed my fluid every couple hundred miles. I even push a tube small 16 inch tube down the masters tube to clean deep into the hose.

Yes im overkilling. What I noticed if I run the car hard for 100 miles, its dirty. If I drive "normal" for the a 100 miles, its pretty clean. Higher shift points effect how dirty mine is. After recently changing to the SRF, Ill go longer between fluid changes.

Today, I cleaned out my brake reservoir and ran out of my normal DOT4, so I had to add the SRF to the brakes and that hurt the wallet some lol

JimsCorvettes

My replacement is black.... Really GM?

racebum

so much this. if people just did frequent turkey baster suck outs and wipe with paper towels. then add fresh fluid every so often {i did every 1k miles} you will never have trouble again

whatcop?

The fluid doesn't turn black because clutch dust is getting in there. That is a bunch of totally made up BS. It turns black because you are cooking the fluid. Use Castrol SRF and you won't boil the fluid. My fluid can stay in there for 2 months at a time and not change color. When I bought my ZR1 it had 6 miles on it and the fluid was pitch black. No way in hell would the fluid have accumulated that much clutch dust in that span of time. Also if dust could get in then a liquid molecule could absolutely get out. You don't see people complaining about volume loss.

Just to add a side note. The real concern with brake fluid/ clutch fluid is the wet boiling point. Castrol SRF holds a wet boiling point of 500+ degrees if memory serves right. Brake fluid/ Clutch fluid is considered wet when it has 3% water volume. So basically you can ignore the dry boiling point and only reference wet. Compare that with other fluids and it is in another league.

Yes Castrol SRF is expensive, however you won't be replacing your fluid every 10 minutes like you will with other products.

racebum

zr1 uses a superior clutch. doesn't have the issue we are referring to the c5, c5z, c6 and c6z06 all have the self adjusting single disc

have you owned a base car? it's pretty obvious the black powder at the bottom of clear fluid isn't cooked. it happens even if you just street drive

black powdery grit accumulates

whatcop?

I had a Z06 and tracked it. I've had several clutches in my ZR1 as well. Pops had a C4 and C5 base models over the years. ZR1s have the same issues with pedal drop. I've never had that issue once I switched to SRF. All hydraulic clutches are self adjusting. Go put some brake fluid in a pot on the stove and watch what happens when you boil it. You'll see an accumulation of black sediment as you boil it.

l98tpi

Millenium Z06

Prestone Dot 4 or ATE 706202 Original TYP 200 DOT 4 Brake Fluid. Recently flushed my brake system with ATE and had some left so when I flushed the clutch, thats what went in

racebum

challenge accepted

jwaked

So I might use Amsoil DOT 4 for Clutch and DOT 3 for brakes since is only street driven on weekends, Input? Any idea how many quarts of each?
2011 C6 ZR1.


Thanks
Jay

DesignEngineerGreco

I’m here looking for the same answers...I’m looking at the the higher boiling point fluids now.

My replacement master didn’t even make it 4000 miles with the standard dot 4 fresh fluid and new reservoir the dealer installed. Now there blaming the slave. I’m convinced the higher boiling point fluids are the better choice. The slave is exposed to some serious temps in the the bell housing. This time around it’s racing fluids and “Ranger method” for me! If this happens again, unloading not looking back, and will stay away from GM vehicles.

GM should of stepped up on this issue in my opinion. Just covered the easiest cheapest least amount of labor item in the service bulletin which was a cop out! They should of spec’d better quality replacement parts with accessible bleeder for of ease of maintenance. It’s insane to me that you have to keep replacing the fluid to keep the car on the road! Feel real confident about a road trip now, wth!?! Really?!?! Should I really have to worry about that with 29k miles on a car that isn’t abused? 👊🏻

drewz06

did they do a proper GM bleed? consider this.... would you ever "bleed your brakes" using the ranger method and consider that enough?

the only way to flush the fluid correctly is through the port on the slave....