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2018 Rebuild, Maybe bigger/better, maybe not.

 
Old 03-11-2018, 04:59 PM
  #41  
Unreal
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Current thinking .

Dart pro block
Ccw crank
10:1 or so good pistons .
Mast heads loaded out with crower rockets and victory dlc to valves .
Solid roller specd by someone .Streetable but big .

Keep rest close to same. Then once solid either put new vortech once that comes out or throw a f1x on it and shoot for solid 200 half miles in a complete street car .
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Old 03-11-2018, 05:03 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Unreal View Post
Current thinking .

Dart pro block
Ccw crank
10:1 or so good pistons .
Mast heads loaded out with crower rockets and victory dlc to valves .
Solid roller specd by someone .Streetable but big .

Keep rest close to same. Then once solid either put new vortech once that comes out or throw a f1x on it and shoot for solid 200 half miles in a complete street car .
Sounds like a good plan to me. Best of luck and I look forward to the build. Keep the cubes though - don't go 388.
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Old 03-11-2018, 06:29 PM
  #43  
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Why not?

Really it will depend on a few things, and what cranks are available. If I can't get a dart CCW 4" for 12+ months, that will dictate my options.
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:47 PM
  #44  
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A solid roller 388 would be bad ***. Lots of revs
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Old 03-11-2018, 08:53 PM
  #45  
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Problem with lots of revs is tranny doesnt' like it, and dart CCW cranks are only in 4" stroke, so that throws that idea out.
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:05 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Unreal View Post
Why not?

Really it will depend on a few things, and what cranks are available. If I can't get a dart CCW 4" for 12+ months, that will dictate my options.
There have been a few 388 builds lately on this platform where the owners went back to 427+ inch setups and improved power and ET.

I'd go with the cubes and the larger cam that you mentioned. The cubes will help tame the larger cam you mentioned as well so you can have a larger cubic inch, higher VE, higher RPM setup. If I were building a turbo automatic car I would probably go with a 388/TFS 245 combo with a Forced Inductions 91mm hanging off the front.

Last edited by Turbo2L; 03-11-2018 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:16 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by lt1z View Post
Glad you were able to save it. Fluid under the tires at high speed is a sketchy feeling for sure.
Good luck on your build. Looking forward to following along, we'll all learn a bunch for sure!
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:19 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Turbo2L View Post
There have been a few 388 builds lately on this platform where the owners went back to 427+ inch setups and improved power and ET.

I'd go with the cubes and the larger cam that you mentioned. The cubes will help tame the larger cam you mentioned as well so you can have a larger cubic inch, higher VE, higher RPM setup. If I were building a turbo automatic car I would probably go with a 388/TFS 245 combo with a Forced Inductions 91mm hanging off the front.
Considering the dart cranks only come in 4" right now, that will make that choice easy.

4" dart crank. Now SHP pro vs LSX. SHP pro looks to be cheaper. Need to wait and see where prices land up and availability.

Other choice is mast vs all pro heads.
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Old 03-11-2018, 09:30 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Unreal View Post
Problem with lots of revs is tranny doesnt' like it, and dart CCW cranks are only in 4" stroke, so that throws that idea out.
Are you just talking in general? Or do you have high rpm shifting issues? A friend of mine is making 700+ wheel and he has complained about some shifting issues in the revs. He's on a tr6060 also. I'm just wondering if this is a 6060 thing because I don't remember anyone with a t56 having issues.
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Old 03-11-2018, 10:19 PM
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Theres a g1 ls7 boosted intake for sale that with lax block cp pistons and crank with all the goodies .....soon I will probably be buying my buddies forged vortech c6 with a power glide....on meth and pumpgas....shouldbe fun...goodluck 10:2 1would be perfect..
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Old 03-11-2018, 10:23 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by blackz97 View Post
Are you just talking in general? Or do you have high rpm shifting issues? A friend of mine is making 700+ wheel and he has complained about some shifting issues in the revs. He's on a tr6060 also. I'm just wondering if this is a 6060 thing because I don't remember anyone with a t56 having issues.
T56/6060s don't like being shifted up high. Unless you faceplate them and make it a race car. Sure you can rev out on the dyno and make killer numbers, but if you can't shift what is the point.
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:21 AM
  #52  
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I drove a T56 that had 1-4 faceplated and retained synchros in 5th and 6th. I think Liberty did the faceplating. Was a students car at the Glen a few years ago. Man that thing shifted like an animal. Shift as fast as you want...the faster the better in fact and basically impossible to miss a shift. Downshifting I had to rev match, but I do that anyhow with heel-toe. What a great mod for the track. On the street, might be a pain in the ***. He said he double clutched it for downshifting on the street.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:21 AM
  #53  
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Not even remotely an option for me. This will still be 90% street car that will see a good amount of mileage. Probably keep it like it was, with power band focused around 5-7k and limiter around 7500.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:31 AM
  #54  
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sucks to hear this..
maybe worth getting a dye pentrant test kit to verify if crack is deep vs a scratch
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:35 AM
  #55  
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Either way I think this block is coming out, cracked or not for bigger/better.

I need to figure out if the dart pro block has all the correct holes/locations/etc for everything. I know the LSX does. I don't want to move knock sensors, or stuff like that. It only uses 4 bolt mains, which is probably fine, but need to make sure it has all the holes for all the factory grounds/etc.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:41 AM
  #56  
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when i was doing my build, i was told the dart block needs spacers built to retain dry sump but everything else remained same.
Bryan at LME will know everything for sure. Guy lives with the phone on his hip and always answers.
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Old 03-12-2018, 09:51 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by gameover4 View Post
when i was doing my build, i was told the dart block needs spacers built to retain dry sump but everything else remained same.
Bryan at LME will know everything for sure. Guy lives with the phone on his hip and always answers.
That was the LS next block, and that is still true. The SHP is the bolt in no spacers, uses factory covers, etc. Not looking at the LS next block, looking at the SHP pro.

Already finding that you need a parts kit for $150, and windage tray kit for $130. So $2400ish compared to $2800 for LSX goes away quickly considering LSX comes with all the parts.
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Old 03-12-2018, 10:16 AM
  #58  
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tried and true is hard to beat (especially with all your luck), think ive heard you mention that quite few times. I know it hard to do when a freak accident occurred to sway the mind but to me you didnt have a true "failure". Regardless following build
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:35 PM
  #59  
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Is o-ringing the heads worth while? It was a 60's/70's fix for blowing head gaskets.
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Old 03-12-2018, 08:49 PM
  #60  
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At extreme power levels (1500+rwhp), it can be. There are much better gaskets out now that would solve the problem. That and 1/2" head studs/etc will easily be an issue.

Hell, if I wasn't stupid, and didn't push it as hard, it would have been fine. I got a bit to aggressive on the tune. This is 100% my fault for being dumb. Leaned out too much, killed HG, dumped water, cracked block. My stupid mistake.

Working with a builder now to do something special and nice. I'm already decided on a LSR block for sure. No question on that anymore. Will be nice to get back to aluminum for the cooling in the hot summers.
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