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2018 Rebuild, Maybe bigger/better, maybe not.

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Old 03-12-2018, 10:28 PM
  #61  
1MEANGS
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How much timing were you running? E-85 right?
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:05 PM
  #62  
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Isn’t that a Gen 1 LSX Block? I thought those blocks were prone to cracking. Guess it was time for it to let go! Kaboom, that sucks man it’s always something with these big 1000 hp Vette builds.
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Old 03-12-2018, 11:48 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by 1MEANGS View Post
Isnít that a Gen 1 LSX Block? I thought those blocks were prone to cracking. Guess it was time for it to let go! Kaboom, that sucks man itís always something with these big 1000 hp Vette builds.
30,000 miles isn't shabby along with the many many 1/2 mile runs trapping over 180.
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:04 AM
  #64  
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T85 and 15 degrees .yes early lsx block. Over 6 years old of beating .

It didn't fail in the normal way they are known for when seeing 1600+how. It basically hydrolocked from the head gasket failure. Probably would have taken out any block. Lsr, dart, gen 2 lsx. Either the rod would have to bend or cylinder fail. Good thing with iron block is a sleeve repair is cheap and easy. Can have this block fixed for less than $200 but since it is a gen 1 block and I want to turn it up, and want to go aluminum I'll swap to the lsr block then keep this one for a nice na build. Would be fun to throw in a truck or swap. Keep everything as is, worth some 11:1 pistons and enjoy it in my Jeep or something silly like that.

Next debate is solid roller vs hydraulic. Doing crower rockers either way. For keeping under 7800 not sure what to do

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Old 03-13-2018, 01:31 AM
  #65  
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I think a solid roller with a centri blower is just badass. I canít imagine it being that bad to adjust lash every so often.
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:50 AM
  #66  
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I was hoping you went aluminum. LSR block is fantastic. Ductile iron liners are great and I really like how they reinforced the block. Shouldn't flex that much at all. When I had my LS7 rebuilt a few months ago there was a brand new LSR in the engine shop being assembled. Bored to 4.20, tall deck. The builder showed me two cross bolts on the main caps that I hadn't seen before. So 8 bolt main. I am pretty confident that block will take 1500hp if done right.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:16 AM
  #67  
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That is an optional upgrade for the extra main bolts. Another debate is keep dragon slayer or do dart ccw. Would have to have block clearanced for the counter weights.

Leaning towards a solid. Valve covers were off every 3k miles anyways.
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:31 AM
  #68  
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For a street car I would go Hydraulic! I hate having to adjust valve lash!
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Old 03-13-2018, 10:38 AM
  #69  
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For a 1000+hp street car, you are in the motor every other month inspecting, checking, adjusting. So an extra 20 minutes to check lash is nothing. I rather have high RPM stability.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:28 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Unreal View Post
For a 1000+hp street car, you are in the motor every other month inspecting, checking, adjusting. So an extra 20 minutes to check lash is nothing. I rather have high RPM stability.
I agree might as well go solid roller if your gonna spend the coin on good rockers etc. also have you ever considered the ccw dart crank? From what I was told from a very reputable engine builder he preferred them over the Callieís ccw crank. Canít beat that crank for the money. Goes right in dart block but other blocks will require some machine work for fitment!
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Old 03-13-2018, 01:19 PM
  #71  
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Yes, considering it.

Working with a builder on this. Dart crank is ~$1400, which I don't mind, but the DS crank has had no issues. I have no problem doing the dark crank, and using the DS with my current block in another build.

Waiting to hear details from my engine guy.
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Old 03-13-2018, 02:50 PM
  #72  
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Dart just made more CCW cranks as of early February. You said you might have to wait a year, but that shouldn't be the case. HPR was able to call around and find one for my build even before the last batch was produced.
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Old 03-13-2018, 06:33 PM
  #73  
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Yah, not concerned with getting one. BTR has 5+ in stock last time I checked.
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Old 03-13-2018, 08:52 PM
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So what are you thinking cam-wise in terms of duration, lift, etc.?
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Old 03-13-2018, 09:00 PM
  #75  
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No idea. Plan is to let builder, or BTR, or Tick, or Pat G, decide.

Thinking if solid maybe 240/250 115-116 ish. But just making those numbers up.
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Old 03-14-2018, 07:12 PM
  #76  
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Mixed on solid vs hydralic. Figured solid would be cheaper lifters, high rev, no issues, but now being told expect valve springs way more often, and won't be as reliable as hydralic. Since ~7500 will be fine with hydralic, may just go that route.

Leaning towards the Dart CCW crank, which means I may have my 4" dragon slayer for sale soon. All depends on which direction I go. Looks like only part I may reuse is the rods. Everything else will be new.

Last edited by Unreal; 03-14-2018 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 03-14-2018, 07:58 PM
  #77  
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I went though a similar debate when I rebuilt my LS7. The builder basically insisted to go solid roller. Better valve train stability at higher rpms, no valve train noise, quicker revs, more power, less bouncing of the valves etc. And I know Cam Motion grinds a sweet low lash solid roller that Kip swears by. It's compelling. I thought on it pretty long and hard and decided to stick with a hydraulic roller on Johnson 2126LSR axle oiling lifters and Trend 3/8" pushrods with a .135" wall. It's always worked well for me and I go with what I know. Hydraulic rollers have come a long way in cam profile, lobes and lifter design. Overall valve motion is essentially the same. At least until the valves float and lifter pumps up, where the solids keep on trucking and revving, especially at very high rpms and spring pressure.

And yes, it's the springs you worry about more than checking lash on a properly setup solid.

It's a good debate though and you could go either way. But I would only go solid if it is actually needed for the build - which at 7500rpm it isn't (in my opinion). This doesn't mean it isn't beneficial, just means it isn't necessarily needed. Others may disagree. Nothing wrong with either choice though.
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:23 PM
  #78  
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Solid-

Pros-
Cost less
Better stability
High RPM limit
More power?

Cons-
Spring life
Maintenance
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Old 03-14-2018, 08:55 PM
  #79  
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What rockers?
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Old 03-14-2018, 09:02 PM
  #80  
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Crower steel shaft.
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