[ZR1] Voltage reading on DIC with engine not running?
#1
_"SCOTT"_
Thread Starter
Voltage reading on DIC with engine not running?
As the thread title says, what should the voltage read on the DIC without the engine running?
Mine is reading 12.2V. (not sure if that's normal)
The battery is 3 years old and I'm getting a service active handling message. I want to be sure it has nothing to do with the battery before I take it in for service. Steering wheel sensor has already been replaced 11 months ago...
Mine is reading 12.2V. (not sure if that's normal)
The battery is 3 years old and I'm getting a service active handling message. I want to be sure it has nothing to do with the battery before I take it in for service. Steering wheel sensor has already been replaced 11 months ago...
Last edited by 3LZZ06; 03-18-2018 at 03:45 PM.
#3
Pro
Around 12.6v with ignition switch off for 10-15 min. or so.
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3LZZ06 (03-19-2018)
#4
Burning Brakes
As the thread title says, what should the voltage read on the DIC without the engine running?
Mine is reading 12.2V. (not sure if that's normal)
The battery is 3 years old and I'm getting a service active handling message. I want to be sure it has nothing to do with the battery before I take it in for service. Steering wheel sensor has already been replaced 11 months ago...
Mine is reading 12.2V. (not sure if that's normal)
The battery is 3 years old and I'm getting a service active handling message. I want to be sure it has nothing to do with the battery before I take it in for service. Steering wheel sensor has already been replaced 11 months ago...
A better test is to look at the voltage and then turn on all the lights and if voltage immediately drops several tenths of a volt then your battery is suspect and needs further examination.
Douglas in Green Bay
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3LZZ06 (03-23-2018)
#6
Race Director
How do you get a reading on the DIC with the engine off? In accessory mode?
#7
Melting Slicks
12.2 is very low for a battery. Fully charged should read around 12.8, most batteries will be around 12.5 or 12.6. Tenths matter. Your battery needs a deep charge or may need to be replaced (more likely a deep charge). If you have a manual charger putting on a 5 or 10amp charge for 24 hours will tell you if it’s good or bad after the charge. Either the voltage and power will recover or it won’t. If you have a automatic battery tender it won’t supply enough for power for enough time to recover the power in the battery.
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3LZZ06 (03-23-2018)
#9
#10
_"SCOTT"_
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help everyone.
I have it on a 10amp charger right now, so I'll see tomorrow if it recovers. If not I'll replace the battery.
Hopefully that's the reason for "service active handling". If not, it's off to the dealership...
I have it on a 10amp charger right now, so I'll see tomorrow if it recovers. If not I'll replace the battery.
Hopefully that's the reason for "service active handling". If not, it's off to the dealership...
#11
Drifting
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It is not accurate. First time tried this way. Hit start button without starting, both the gauge and double checking with DIC it read 11.5 volts. That could not be, i turned it of and checked in the engine bay positive cable and a good ground and the voltmeter read 12.52. That is a good battery/voltage sitting after a week. So the checking the other way is not accurate.
#12
Race Director
It is not accurate. First time tried this way. Hit start button without starting, both the gauge and double checking with DIC it read 11.5 volts. That could not be, i turned it of and checked in the engine bay positive cable and a good ground and the voltmeter read 12.52. That is a good battery/voltage sitting after a week. So the checking the other way is not accurate.
#13
Drifting
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Originally Posted by EVRose
Next time check it at the battery before you turn it off. In the ignition on position systems activated produce a current draw.