Limited slip rebuild?
#1
Melting Slicks
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Limited slip rebuild?
I can't recall ever seeing a thread about it, and search function here is pretty much useless, so please forgive me if this has been covered...
Anyone here ever rebuilt their LSD?
Last time at Laguna I had wheelspin issues out of 11, and this morning I had one rear wheel on a wet drain grate and the car wouldn't even move.
Looks like GM sells a clutch pack kit for around $100/side. Any aftermarket upgraded clutch packs available? A Quaife LSD is available for ~$1500... anyone with any feedback, or have have experience with any other aftermarket option?
Thanks!
Anyone here ever rebuilt their LSD?
Last time at Laguna I had wheelspin issues out of 11, and this morning I had one rear wheel on a wet drain grate and the car wouldn't even move.
Looks like GM sells a clutch pack kit for around $100/side. Any aftermarket upgraded clutch packs available? A Quaife LSD is available for ~$1500... anyone with any feedback, or have have experience with any other aftermarket option?
Thanks!
#3
Team Owner
Curious....how old is the fluid in your diff, and did you also add the limited slip additive?
#4
Melting Slicks
Interesting that you're having issues, doesn't come up as an issue very often. Back in my mustang days I would recommend just repacking a traction-lok diff instead of buying a more expensive one. They have friction material by design and those friction discs wear. Since you track your car, maybe a Quaife is right for you. If mine ever wears out, I'll repack the stock diff.
#6
Safety Car
$100 for a clutch set isn't bad. I completely wore out the diff in my wife's MB 560-SEL recently. Friction discs for that one are ~$90 each (there's 6 of them) and the steel discs between them are ~$60 each.
Replacing the clutches isn't a terribly bad job. Pay attention to detail. Keep track of all the shims and washers when you take it apart, and get everything back exactly where it was. New seals are generally a good idea as well.
If you want to refresh/replace the bearings, then it gets more complicated. That's always a tempting thing to do, but it usually isn't necessary. Unless there's obvious play, resist the urge to mess with that.
Replacing the clutches isn't a terribly bad job. Pay attention to detail. Keep track of all the shims and washers when you take it apart, and get everything back exactly where it was. New seals are generally a good idea as well.
If you want to refresh/replace the bearings, then it gets more complicated. That's always a tempting thing to do, but it usually isn't necessary. Unless there's obvious play, resist the urge to mess with that.
#7
Melting Slicks
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I bought the car with ~40K on it, and it had been tracked 'some' before I bought it. Haven't measured the breakaway torque, but yesterday in the driveway said there was definitely an issue.
Surprised it hasn't come up before. Recall a post from LG talking about rebuilding their race car diff every (other?) race. Posted this in the race/autocross section too, with zero response so far.
Not concerned about the process... 40 years now as a tech, doing diff work is unpleasant and smelly but not impossible. Just curious as to other options from stock, or feedback on a Quaife, etc. The ~$100 clutch pack is X2, for both sides.
Surprised it hasn't come up before. Recall a post from LG talking about rebuilding their race car diff every (other?) race. Posted this in the race/autocross section too, with zero response so far.
Not concerned about the process... 40 years now as a tech, doing diff work is unpleasant and smelly but not impossible. Just curious as to other options from stock, or feedback on a Quaife, etc. The ~$100 clutch pack is X2, for both sides.
#9
Racer
Diff fluid is the one fluid I don't really mess with as far as 'upgrading'. It is quirky, so I leave good enough alone and stick with the OEM.
#10
Drifting
I bought the car with ~40K on it, and it had been tracked 'some' before I bought it. Haven't measured the breakaway torque, but yesterday in the driveway said there was definitely an issue.
Surprised it hasn't come up before. Recall a post from LG talking about rebuilding their race car diff every (other?) race. Posted this in the race/autocross section too, with zero response so far.
Not concerned about the process... 40 years now as a tech, doing diff work is unpleasant and smelly but not impossible. Just curious as to other options from stock, or feedback on a Quaife, etc. The ~$100 clutch pack is X2, for both sides.
Surprised it hasn't come up before. Recall a post from LG talking about rebuilding their race car diff every (other?) race. Posted this in the race/autocross section too, with zero response so far.
Not concerned about the process... 40 years now as a tech, doing diff work is unpleasant and smelly but not impossible. Just curious as to other options from stock, or feedback on a Quaife, etc. The ~$100 clutch pack is X2, for both sides.
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Nowanker (04-13-2018)
#11
Melting Slicks
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Fluid is recent, as is the start of the issue... So, first thing I'd do is swap the fluid out for OEM fluid and friction modifier, and see if that resolves it. It's cheap enough and worth a try, before you tear down.
Diff fluid is the one fluid I don't really mess with as far as 'upgrading'. It is quirky, so I leave good enough alone and stick with the OEM.
Diff fluid is the one fluid I don't really mess with as far as 'upgrading'. It is quirky, so I leave good enough alone and stick with the OEM.
'Recent' diff fluid did not coincide with the loss of LSD.
No brand of GL5 (nor all the king's horses...) will restore that missing friction.
I'm just surprised that no one else who tracks these regularly has developed the issue.
#12
Melting Slicks
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Yep if memory serves me right it was Anthony (formerly with LG) that mentioned in that thread that they used to have to rebuild the stock diff after every or every other race. Bottom line is they wear and honestly I think that most people simply do not think about this and do not know how to check their diff's to see if they are functioning properly. Personally I've been running an OS Gicken LSD in my C6Z which is predominately a track car since 2013 or so with zero issues and it made a noticable difference in handling.
Tempted to explore either that or a Quaife, but then the factory plates and stuff add up to only ~$250...
#14
Team Owner
x how many more times will your use require this. But yeah, still cheap...just time/downtime involved.
#15
Melting Slicks
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It's a giant PITA, but since I'm not planning to track the car too many more times, I imagine stock plates would last 'forever'. But upgrades are always tempting!
Just heard back from OSG, they say all c5/c6 diff units are the same (?!)
If so, Eaton has something too, and way cheaper through Jegs.
Just heard back from OSG, they say all c5/c6 diff units are the same (?!)
If so, Eaton has something too, and way cheaper through Jegs.
#16
Drifting
It's a giant PITA, but since I'm not planning to track the car too many more times, I imagine stock plates would last 'forever'. But upgrades are always tempting!
Just heard back from OSG, they say all c5/c6 diff units are the same (?!)
If so, Eaton has something too, and way cheaper through Jegs.
Just heard back from OSG, they say all c5/c6 diff units are the same (?!)
If so, Eaton has something too, and way cheaper through Jegs.
#17
Melting Slicks
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I like the OSG for sure, seems like all the advantages of a Quaife with none of the downside. Eaton is the same basic functionality as stock, and after looking at all the Wavetrac propaganda, it seems to work much like a stock one too, just accomplished in a slightly different manner.
But the cheap bastard component in me won out... since I'm not planning on tracking this car extensively, the stock items will suffice.
Thanks for the input!
But the cheap bastard component in me won out... since I'm not planning on tracking this car extensively, the stock items will suffice.
Thanks for the input!
#18
Race Director
I like the OSG for sure, seems like all the advantages of a Quaife with none of the downside. Eaton is the same basic functionality as stock, and after looking at all the Wavetrac propaganda, it seems to work much like a stock one too, just accomplished in a slightly different manner.
But the cheap bastard component in me won out... since I'm not planning on tracking this car extensively, the stock items will suffice.
Thanks for the input!
But the cheap bastard component in me won out... since I'm not planning on tracking this car extensively, the stock items will suffice.
Thanks for the input!
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Nowanker (04-14-2018)
#20
Drifting
I have rebuilt mine, clutch packs are around $200 from Chevrolet. I used GM gear oil with friction modifier in it. once you rebuild it you will have to do circles in an empty parking lot in both directions to break in the clutches. it was a night and day difference. When I put a clutch in my GS ill rebuild the diff at the same time, while its out.
You can how ever get the LSD out fairly easy in the car. Drain the fluid and remove both axles and diff cover on the pass. side will have to come off. Tricky part is the trans mount. Once off the LSD will come out.
You can how ever get the LSD out fairly easy in the car. Drain the fluid and remove both axles and diff cover on the pass. side will have to come off. Tricky part is the trans mount. Once off the LSD will come out.