[Z06] 07 c6z random no start-----decent read
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
07 c6z random no start-----decent read
status of car----FIXED NOW, but dont know why
list of mods---heads, cam, intake 102/102, full ex, nitrous plate kit
5,000 miles on this set up, it was recently re-tuned for drivability because orig. tune wasnt street friendly at all.
battery is 2 weeks old
DIC shows exactly 12.0 volts when key on before starting, at idle its at 14.3-14.4
i have elm with a ob2 android scanner (running obd harry), the car has thrown zero codes
So yesterday i hopped in the car to leave and cruise around. I always press green button, let everything cycle, then clutch in and start. Well, yesterday it turned over sputtered, then kept turning over and over and wouldn't FIRE. Smelled like fuel, pulled a plug and it DID have some recent fuel on it..
The fuel pump cycles, primes, and there is 58-60lbs of pressure holding at the rail.
Clutch activation switch is operational because in the middle of turning over, if i release the clutch, the engine stops turning over.
The throttle body is not stuck open, voltage is correct and i have FULL sweep from closed to WOT.
So after i sat and wondered what the hell this could be, i started on the good ole google search.
A guy said that he shredded a belt once and it destroyed his cam position sensor wires......i shredded a belt last summer so i figured this coule be a problem and went to that area. All was good.
Then i went to the crank position sensor because car has headers, and a dei heat shield around the starter. (maybe it was moving around and rubbed the sensor or pulled a wire out. NOPE crank ps is good, all wires are good and tight going to the starter.
hopped back in the car and and still only cranks over, cycles fuel pump and no FIRE
I found something on here where a guy had a BCM issue from loose connections under the passenger footwell. I did take a friend on a ride friday afternoon that was completely terrified so that is what made me think it was not out of the realm of a possibility LOL just insane
So, on youtube there is several videos about the fuel pump relay at the fuse box having a problem. I went to fuse box, swapped wiper relay with ignition relay, same issue, crank but no FIRE. I inspected the fuel relay, wasnt burnt or bad (switched it with another relay). I seperated the fuse box to see if it was a contact issue where the pins plug together and it was perfectly normal, no discoloration, bent prongs etc.
The last option was to disconnect the neg terminal on the battery for a couple mins, re install it and see if it fired. Well, it did. This leaves me in a place where im not comfortable.
I dont really know why the car didnt start.
It still didnt throw any codes , or have any stored codes in it once i got it running again.
(just to be clear, i have voltage, fuel, and engine is turning over and over but will not SPARK/FIRE)
please lmk what your thoughts and or experiences are on this craziness
ALSO____i would like to thank my wife for spending hours in the garage with me trying to sort this problem out!!!!!!
list of mods---heads, cam, intake 102/102, full ex, nitrous plate kit
5,000 miles on this set up, it was recently re-tuned for drivability because orig. tune wasnt street friendly at all.
battery is 2 weeks old
DIC shows exactly 12.0 volts when key on before starting, at idle its at 14.3-14.4
i have elm with a ob2 android scanner (running obd harry), the car has thrown zero codes
So yesterday i hopped in the car to leave and cruise around. I always press green button, let everything cycle, then clutch in and start. Well, yesterday it turned over sputtered, then kept turning over and over and wouldn't FIRE. Smelled like fuel, pulled a plug and it DID have some recent fuel on it..
The fuel pump cycles, primes, and there is 58-60lbs of pressure holding at the rail.
Clutch activation switch is operational because in the middle of turning over, if i release the clutch, the engine stops turning over.
The throttle body is not stuck open, voltage is correct and i have FULL sweep from closed to WOT.
So after i sat and wondered what the hell this could be, i started on the good ole google search.
A guy said that he shredded a belt once and it destroyed his cam position sensor wires......i shredded a belt last summer so i figured this coule be a problem and went to that area. All was good.
Then i went to the crank position sensor because car has headers, and a dei heat shield around the starter. (maybe it was moving around and rubbed the sensor or pulled a wire out. NOPE crank ps is good, all wires are good and tight going to the starter.
hopped back in the car and and still only cranks over, cycles fuel pump and no FIRE
I found something on here where a guy had a BCM issue from loose connections under the passenger footwell. I did take a friend on a ride friday afternoon that was completely terrified so that is what made me think it was not out of the realm of a possibility LOL just insane
So, on youtube there is several videos about the fuel pump relay at the fuse box having a problem. I went to fuse box, swapped wiper relay with ignition relay, same issue, crank but no FIRE. I inspected the fuel relay, wasnt burnt or bad (switched it with another relay). I seperated the fuse box to see if it was a contact issue where the pins plug together and it was perfectly normal, no discoloration, bent prongs etc.
The last option was to disconnect the neg terminal on the battery for a couple mins, re install it and see if it fired. Well, it did. This leaves me in a place where im not comfortable.
I dont really know why the car didnt start.
It still didnt throw any codes , or have any stored codes in it once i got it running again.
(just to be clear, i have voltage, fuel, and engine is turning over and over but will not SPARK/FIRE)
please lmk what your thoughts and or experiences are on this craziness
ALSO____i would like to thank my wife for spending hours in the garage with me trying to sort this problem out!!!!!!
Last edited by ~STOLEN~; 04-15-2018 at 01:17 PM.
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thought from it being installed so recently that it could have wiggled loose on the new posts.
But it was tight too.
There is no rhyme or reason for it at this point.
#4
I read above and hopefully it doesn’t re occur but if it does you may want to check some other items. For an engine to run you need air, fuel and ignition. You mentioned you have fuel pressure but do you know if the injectors were actually pulsing? If it didn’t run you were missing fuel or ignition. (Assuming the motor is ok—given it ran later on) Did you test for ignition? If this re occurs id suggest getting a node light and testing for an injector signal as well as checking for good spark. More than likely you’ll find an issue with one or the other. From there the real testing will begin to see what is occurring.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Well if the injectors didn't pulse, the #6 plug was wet with fuel from a leaky injector, because That's the plug that i pulled.
The tip was soaked with fuel and even before I pulled it the whole garage smelled like raw fuel.
So I believe they were.
I just didnt have another route to diag a no spark situation.
In sure ill have another chance to have a go at this.....with my luck it will be the most inconvenient time ever that it will act up again.
The tip was soaked with fuel and even before I pulled it the whole garage smelled like raw fuel.
So I believe they were.
I just didnt have another route to diag a no spark situation.
In sure ill have another chance to have a go at this.....with my luck it will be the most inconvenient time ever that it will act up again.
#6
Race Director
i had a ghost no start in my c5z., tried it all. looked at the diagram. found a couple relays in line that may or may not have been the problem. replaced both for $20 never had the problem again
if you're tearing your hair out you may have a non conventional problem like i did
if you're tearing your hair out you may have a non conventional problem like i did
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i had a ghost no start in my c5z., tried it all. looked at the diagram. found a couple relays in line that may or may not have been the problem. replaced both for $20 never had the problem again
if you're tearing your hair out you may have a non conventional problem like i did
if you're tearing your hair out you may have a non conventional problem like i did
my c5z had the dredded "reduced engine power" crap at total random times as well.....im beginning to think these cars dont like how i drive them or how i mod them
Last edited by ~STOLEN~; 04-16-2018 at 09:12 AM.