Kingtal0n

I am not suggesting everybody run out and spend $$ changing their parts. the question was "Does lowering T-stat temp reduce engine longevity" and the answer is: As long as you don't go too low with coolant temp, Not if you don't let it.

Too low of coolant temp (say below 150-160*F) is a completely different discussion. We are only talking 165*F to 220*F coolant situations. Yes you can go from 225*F to a 165*F Thermostat (which typically allows us to maintain a 175-180*F coolant temperature easily) with zero decrease in engine reliability and zero increase to engine wear: if it is done properly. I never said it was cheap, more reliable, better in anyway, or necessary. Only that it is possible to do successfully, and you can't directly blame cold coolant/cold t-stat installations for the oversight of the owners.

reasonable suspicion

so you are suggesting that all else being equal on the car a 160 thermostat will have a lower operating temperature than a 195?.... in other words changing your thermostat will keep your coolant cooler at operating temp?

HOXXOH

Slightly off topic, but 1 16oz bottle per tank that raises the octane of 25 gallons by 3 is overkill, when your empty tank capacity is only 18 gallons. If you add a bottle and 12.5 gallons of 91 (probably more likely) you're bumping the octane to 97. Since higher octane gas burns (not explodes as noted elsewhere) slower, you've effectively done the same thing as retarding the timing at a much greater cost.

A smarter choice would be to identify the rpm where KR occurs and reduce the timing slightly at that point and forget an additive. That should be a no brainer with any tune.

Alternatively, calculate the exact amount of the booster needed to increase the octane to 93 in 10 gallons of 91 and measure that amount into a container you can pour in with 10 gallons. That way, your octane ratio in the tank remains at the same level and if you go out of State where 93 or 94 is available (no booster req'd) you won't upset the ratio.

HOXXOH

Those are two different statements. You need to quantify "operating temperature"

nuke61

CPR did the work, and NicD did the tune. The options were lower timing to where there was no KR on 91, since the heads were milled, or add booster and gain another ~15 horses or so. I opted for the horsepower.

Why the whole bottle? It's easier. I'm lazy.

Kingtal0n

ikr ^^ and in case you missed it: he provided an excellent rhetorical question to answer your own question about whether or not you need or want colder water in the head.



Efficiency is not always racing. Sometimes yes, but sometimes the brake specific fuel consumption suffers dramatically in order to achieve desired results.

In my opinion, pushing timing is the last thing you want to do. it is the last thing you do to a racing engine is find out how much timing it will take before racing in those conditions.

race engine builder guy has some incredible advice i hope he will post something too

nuke61

How many here use a 1 or 2 step colder spark plug (or even 3 steps) because you have a higher than stock horsepower motor? What's the purpose of going to a colder plug?

It's not like a colder thermostat drops the water temperature to the listed temperature, the offset is on the order of 20 degrees or so, even with low loads and a good radiator.

80atez

I'm having flashbacks to the wrx forum I frequented years ago.

I'm not sure what everyone is going for here. 0.001 seconds faster to the next stop light?

Rdubfalco

Have you tried E85 for your pinging?

nuke61

It's on my future mods want list, but I have home projects I need to take care of first.

Rdubfalco

Gotcha,

Yeah, the DSX Flex fuel sensor is so easy to install you'll wonder why you went without it this long, not to mention the smell: I actually lie the smell of it while others may not. Bottom line is you'll be able to more timing and will probably make a decent amount more power.

Kingtal0n

Using E85 is similar to using a cold water temp. Less mileage, less economy. Everything is colder. Fuel goes quicker.

But it becomes safer. Worst brake specific fuel consumption but overall more reliability and output characteristic is favorable, since output goes up with heat as a byproduct in excess and anything colder is going to be, yeah colder.

E85 is much better at it than just a ten degree lower temp water in the head though. Ethanol is a racing fuel IMO, pretty amazing.

HOXXOH

I've seen a couple of NicD's tunes. They may be great on the dyno, but there's still more left on the table at the track or on the street.

Easier and lazy may be costing you the 15 HP you think you gained by using excess octane (slower burning) and that you are continuously increasing the ratio.

Cordes Performance Racing

Not in a manual car there isn't. Auto a tiny bit from logging it and letting us see what it does down the track. That's why we do track rentals and log passes and half mile events we log too the auto guys or big power manual stuff.

nuke61

Maybe, but my "only" ~580 rwhp car ran 162 mph at Gila Bend. Lots of cars with more claimed horsepower ran 5 mph slower.

Cordes Performance Racing

Bingo. Get more practice and that combo you have will usually do 164-5 depending on weather

Rdubfalco

I'm running Mobil1 15W50 as my engine oil and wait until temps come up to around before I start rolling, as for overall temps, they usually don't see above 180's on the street and 175* at night. Does this mean that this oil isn't lubricating my engine enough because of it's viscosity? If not, then I'' probably change out to 5W30. Thanks.

reasonable suspicion

Thanks for setting me straight everyone, lots of knowledge here. Going to change to a 160 thermostat this weekend.

nuke61

The short and sweet version... you don't know what you're talking about. Because GM designed it that way, it should stay that way? I guess you know nothing about the poorly designed oil cooler?

Apocolipse

lol classic