tw78911sc

From my 15 Camaro 1LE, one day at Watkins w/o ducting

I used http://advancedautofab.com/p/aaf-c5c6-brake-duct/

AzDave47

It seems like it is available based on the web site. I was going by two recent forum comments or e-mails back to me indicating that "no one was home" and no calls were answered and they couldn't get the parts. I just went to the site and did the shopping cart/go to checkout and it all seemed OK. I have them so I don't need them again.

Z.06

I was all in on ordering/installing these but just wanted a human being on the other end of the line to tell me whether the parts involved in the sale would have the dog ears to protect the ball joints from thermal radiation or not. I left a message at the phone number given for Lambert's spouse, asking for a call back and none was ever received, leaving me to wonder exactly what was being sold and whether I would ever receive anything for disclosure of my charge card information. Would all of my assets be for sale on the dark web?

I am still interested in this. Can anyone make me feel better about this purchase with a confirmed sale and delivery of product, without repercussions of one's credit card information being stolen?

AzDave47

I bought mine 6-7 years ago so no recent transactions with them. My set has the dog ears protecting the ball joints.

Carbon108

80atez

good thread.. Thanks everyone, esp Mordeth.
I'm a weekend warrior, also from the WRX world years ago. Today I remembered an old bumpersticker from the '70s for vettes.. "Wrap your *** in fiberglass".. I think I just dated myself.

A good seat and harness really does make a difference..

Safety has not been mentioned.

My 2C is this: With HPDE I don't really expect to flip over, if so I'd have a cage. But a c6Z cage is not simple with the Al frame blah blah blah... I wanted the ultimate road and track car...

I decided, I wanted a good track helmet, not my MC helmet, A harness bar, and a 6 point harness and HANS. The HANS costs almost the same as a harness bar harness and HANS accepting helmet! But if you hit something hard and stop, you really do want your head to stop too, at the same time.

If you know you want to track often, why not protect yourself first, then upgrade your kit?

Seat and attachment brackets (I got a Carravagio which I like on track and off, down side is it doesn't seem too strong in a major crash, but it is I think a Sparco single piece frame (fiberglass?)) I added rear brace to the harness bar so it has zero flex. This works on street with the stock seatbelt too as I wanted a dual purpose car.

The HB is a Hardbar? It seems perfect.

The harness is a 3inch to 2in Teamtech I think. It accepts HANS. Works great.

HANS is sport model.

Helmet is pyrotech with HANS connection, it was cheap, it's light and well made.

This is my safety gear for occasional HPDE use. Some will call this overkill, but I take care of MVC victims and see what a 20G crash into a wall can do. The airbag might work like a HANS, and I suspect this is why they save lives, but only for a frontal crash.

Some will say this is underkill, no cage means a harness can trap you and prevent movement when the roof crushes you because I don't have a cage. This is possible, but I've read reviews on this very subject and feel it is a reasonable tradeoff.. The B pillar is somewhat stout, and rollovers are rare at a HPDE. I decided against a cage and for HANS for this reason.

The HANS does not effect driving or concentration or view one bit. It is a bit hard to get going as I have no pit crew! But like riding a MC, you need to have an order of steps you do before getting on track. First is to pee!

But back to the seat. When you are strapped to a good seat, you feel the car's every move, and you no longer unconsciously use the steering wheel as a hold, it becomes a steering wheel! It makes THE BIGGEST DIFFERENCE in steering, handling, and enjoyment on track for me. In the carravagio, I remove the pads for tracking, lowering me and giving my helmet more room, and making it a tighter attachment to the car.

If you raced before, you know this already, but maybe someone reading this will be swayed to consider safety first, and get a great performance mod out of it too!

Cheers..

'08 Z
Ti exh valves, new guides
carbotech pads (XP 12 / 8)
Coleman HD rotors
SS brake lines. Motul 600
LG G2 CO's
Pfadt JOC sways f/r
currently PS2 ZPs (still a great, and now cheaper tire)
safety stuff per above
Lingenfelter oil can
green filter
M1 0w-40
Redline D4 MT fluid
Delco rear diff fluid

Next up could be:
fire extinguisher
louvred hood and rear wing or at least a spoiler
possibly new calipers soon after seeing what mine look like this weekend. But good pads make the oem's unbelievably good.


PS: don't forget the rear axle bolts.. 160ft lbs iirc.. They come loose sometimes, need new ones and high temp red thread lock per the TSB. My right rear was about at 30ft lbs when I checked. I put new ones on, with threadlock, then put the old ones on outside them!

Z.06

Going back to the title of the thread and the Original Post, there have been a lot of great suggestions with respect to modification of our Corvettes, but little-to-nothing about what additional maintenance is required as a result of repeat trackdays. When I say trackday, I am talking about running one's car on a road course, not a day at the drag strip or a couple of passes at a half or full mile run, just to be clear. And I am also talking about running the car at between 8/10 and 10/10 of the car's capability, so those who are putting around the track at less than that are excused. IMHO, if you make track modifications and repeatedly track your car, but maintain it as if it is a street car....you will be in for a harsh surprise down the road. Not wanting to have this end for myself, I am working with the following maintenance plan on my Z06:

• Engine oil changes every 4 to 6 trackdays or 3000 miles or one year, whichever comes first. Typically a track day for me will include 3 to 5 lapping sessions of 10 or so laps each.
• Transmission and diff oil changes every 24 track hours.
• Check clutch fluid color every two track days. Partial replace by Ranger method as required. (This plan currently under review, as I am having some clutch pedal drop issues)
• Brake fluid to be replaced and bled every 6 months. I am using Motul 600 and it never gives me a soft pedal.
• Check front brake rotor checking/cracking every track day.
• Check brake pad wear every 5-6 track days.
• Replace engine coolant at least every 5 years.

AzDave47

I would suggest checking the brake pad wear far more frequently. What are you using for calipers/pads? The OEM pads lasted me about 1 1/2 track days. As soon as I went to aftermarket pads I had to do additional front brake cooling. see here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-new-look.html

If you are interested in that mod, PM me your normal e-mail and I can send you much more on the "how to". From a cost standpoint, aftermarket front rotors will also help you, but cost $$, Wilwood Aero6 is what I am running. One payback is track pads are $220 front set vs $340+ for OEM calipers. Those calipers can run OEM rotors, which are cheap or very good Willwood GT 72 rotors. You will have to replace your front rubber lines with the Willwood SS lines as those calipers take a pipe thread fitting, not the OEM banjo fitting. I swap front rotors when I change to track pads. OEM for the street and GT72s for the track. I run Carbotech pads in the back which have material compatibility between their 1321 street pads and their various track pads XP 8, 10s or 12s are good and will last. It is the front rakes that really put the hardware to the test.

Check the clutch fluid before each track day. Prestone DOT 4 is cheap and works well for the clutch. If you ever have to do clutch work, make sure to have a remot bleeded put in for the clutch as then you can bleed the full system properly. The ranger method works fine as an expedient alternative.

Make sure to grease the rear trailing arm ball joints every track weekend.

Mark Leger

Man there is a lot of good info and advice I'm going g to use for my car. Thanks everyone and op for putting up the thread!!!

tdeweese

A "good" alignment has been mentioned here; can anyone suggest recommended alignment settings for guys who are starting out and still want to street drive their cars with 19/20 MPSS and then change over to 18/19 NT01 or NT05 for a track day? I would like to have a alignment that is capable in doing both, with the understanding it is a compromise.

Mordeth

Front
Camber (deg): -1.2
Caster (deg): 7.5 - 8.5
Total Toe: 0

Rear
Camber (deg): -.8
Total Toe: 1/8" (0.33°) to 1/16" (0.17°) IN

tdeweese

Thank you Sir! I just check my current setup; everything falls in your recommendations with the exception of my front Camber. I am currently -.52/-.60. Going to run NT01 or 05 on stock wheels and change over to DBA rotors to get me started. I am running at Pittsburgh Raceway complex. its a 3.1 mile road course, very nice facility. Thanks again for the feedback; much appreciated!!

Mordeth

No problem. And please go with NT01. These are an actual DOT compliant road course/track tire. NT05 will overheat very rapidly and become greasy, as they are a street tire. NT01 are very grippy, can take MANY MANY heat cycles and are FAR FAR superior to NT05.

tdeweese

OK thanks for the advice I will do that. My car is 600rwhp so its going to be a challenge for me to learn how to properly apply that much HP without tearing up the car. Seat time will be critical; hopefully can work with an instructor there.

dcamick

Although, I run StopTech Brakes....To each...............

Mordeth

In addition to racing, I also instruct with a wide variety of groups and clubs in the North East. I am usually assigned to the "new guy" with the most horsepower, so I am accustomed to sitting right seat in these situations.

I conduct my own inspection of any vehicle I sit right seat in. What I am most concerned with is the preparedness of the car and the safety equipment installed. This includes the entire braking system, the tires and the freshness and type of the fluids, among other things. I prep the student with a quiz on flags, how/when to pass and be passed and that during the first session we will restrict the speeds to "highway" speeds and only use one gear as we learn the track and the car. We will NOT pass during this session. I also initially suggest a late apex on most (but not all) corners initially, as it is typically safer (but not always) because it leaves you plenty of room for track-out.

Next I am concerned with seating position and mirrors.

And then my goal on the track is to initially teach the following:
1) The location of the corner stations/flag workers
2) The line
3) Remain calm and in control

I "talk" the student around the track with short, direct words and hand signals. I do this repeatedly, lap after lap after lap until the student knows the track, the line and the location of all corner stations. Proper inputs are acknowledged, improper inputs are corrected.

And what I initially expect/teach is:
1) Smoothness
2) Car control
3) Vision (looking ahead)
4) Awareness

All of this can be accomplished regardless of horsepower. Stick to ONE GEAR (like 4th) at first and be smooth on throttle application (but don't be timid). The less things you have to initially worry about the better. You are in control and the car will respond to your inputs. Be firm, direct, confident and smooth. There is obviously ALOT more to learn, but this is how I "get started" with anyone new to a track or to tracking in general.

Also, please ignore some others that suggest checking "brake pad wear" every 5-6 track days. They should be checked before and after EVERY track day (along with a number of other things - like tire wear, lug nut torque, oil level etc). Period and end of that ridiculous discussion.

tdeweese

I live about (1) away from Erie Pa. So not too far from you I think. What track do you instruct at? I would love to come out in the spring and have you educate me! I have an enclosed trailer and have no issue trailering for a good experience. Do you have email you would share with me for offline discussion? You can PM me.
Thanks again for the help!!

AzDave47

Mordeth, excellent input and process for new students to be introduced to the track. Using just one gear gives the student more opportunity to place the car correctly and get the line down right. After the driver can drive the line consistently then increasing speed safely is the next progression. I always leave "late braking" techniques for last as the most likely result of learning late braking is to miss the apex, lose speed and potentially get into a difficult situation.

Also good highlights of car safety/prep.

At a more basic level for instructing, my goals for students are 1) keep them safe, 2) help them have fun and then 3) increase their knowledge of high performance driving.

Most people that want to drive a race track have strong egos (me too). In 1972 with 70 guys (egos) in the stands for my first SCCA drivers school, the chief instructor (Sandy McDonough) began her presentation at the Thompson (CT) Speedway road course by saying " If you want to learn to go fast around this track, there are about 200 things you need to learn". I was fully attentive from that point on even though I had done a few track days at that time. Driving tracks should be a learning experience every time one goes on the track.

Mordeth

I mostly instruct at Watkins Glen (my home track), but I also go to NJMP. I instruct with NASA, CHIN, PCA (Porsche National Instructor) and Phoenix at WGI. I can also instruct with other groups on an as needed basis. My email is agnick5@yahoo.com. Name is Anthony. If you can make it to the Glen I assure you that you will have a blast. I've hooked up with a number of guys from the forum in past years. I'm there almost every week either racing, practicing or instructing during the season. And I always prefer being in a Corvette!

Dane@LGmotorsports

A lot of the time threads like this end up being a bunch of opinionated bs but there is actually a lot of good information/advice on this one. We offer a lot of products that will benefit you as your skill increases and you find limits of your current set up. Our products are developed from racing, not from computer and I spend a lot of time helping customers figure out issues like why the car is unsettling at 120-130 when it encounters a bump or why the car is pushing at a specific turn on a specific track. Thought I would chime in as a potential resource for you in the future.

Thanks!

Dane