Anybody use a Spec clutch?
06-23-2018, 03:37 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Anybody use a Spec clutch?
I like the design of the Spec clutch but I haven't seen anyone mention using one. I did a search bu didn't come up with anything. I have a super lightweight Z06 that is a hot street car and never raced. Anyone out there have actual experience with this company?
Thanks, Gary
Thanks, Gary
06-23-2018, 03:56 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Lower RGV
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
I have Spec twin disc clutch. It was installed by AMP in Grand Prairie. It's rated for 900 tq/ 900 hp.
It works well, the release point is higher than stock but works well for my H/C/I Z06.
It works well, the release point is higher than stock but works well for my H/C/I Z06.
The following 2 users liked this post by Silver Bullet C6:
40YRW8 (06-25-2018),
thetastelingers (06-25-2018)
06-25-2018, 01:01 PM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
Gary
06-25-2018, 01:39 PM
#4
Safety Car
I ran a SPEC 2/3 hybrid, single-disc clutch in my Lingenfelter TT C5Z06 for many years. Never an issue. Car makes 650+rwhp/620+rwtq. It wasn't bad at all on the street. Was very happy with that clutch.
A couple of years ago, I swapped it out, but only because I was upgrading my trans and felt like I should do it while everything was down. Clutch was not worn out. At the recommendation of the trusted shop doing the work, I went with a Centerforce DYAD clutch. It's a little easier on my 50yr old left leg, but again... not a huge difference. I am certain had I not been pulling down the drivetrain, I'd have stayed with the SPEC clutch.
A couple of years ago, I swapped it out, but only because I was upgrading my trans and felt like I should do it while everything was down. Clutch was not worn out. At the recommendation of the trusted shop doing the work, I went with a Centerforce DYAD clutch. It's a little easier on my 50yr old left leg, but again... not a huge difference. I am certain had I not been pulling down the drivetrain, I'd have stayed with the SPEC clutch.
The following users liked this post:
40YRW8 (06-25-2018)
06-25-2018, 02:05 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
I ran a SPEC 2/3 hybrid, single-disc clutch in my Lingenfelter TT C5Z06 for many years. Never an issue. Car makes 650+rwhp/620+rwtq. It wasn't bad at all on the street. Was very happy with that clutch.
A couple of years ago, I swapped it out, but only because I was upgrading my trans and felt like I should do it while everything was down. Clutch was not worn out. At the recommendation of the trusted shop doing the work, I went with a Centerforce DYAD clutch. It's a little easier on my 50yr old left leg, but again... not a huge difference. I am certain had I not been pulling down the drivetrain, I'd have stayed with the SPEC clutch.
A couple of years ago, I swapped it out, but only because I was upgrading my trans and felt like I should do it while everything was down. Clutch was not worn out. At the recommendation of the trusted shop doing the work, I went with a Centerforce DYAD clutch. It's a little easier on my 50yr old left leg, but again... not a huge difference. I am certain had I not been pulling down the drivetrain, I'd have stayed with the SPEC clutch.
Gary
06-25-2018, 02:24 PM
#6
Safety Car
Wow. Several years on a single disc clutch at 620+rwtq is very impressive. My guess is that you are fairly easy on your clutches. I am also. Not that many guys out there really understand the total effects of unnecessary stress on your car and equipment. Thanks for the info. They sound like they really know what they are doing. I am a little surprised that they aren't more popular. Their prices seem to be pretty reasonable.
Gary
I upgraded the trans because the car made too much power for the OEM M12 gear ratios of the C5Z. Just too short of gearing in the trans. So again, I had it all pulled down because I was doing the trans, not because of the clutch. I'd estimate 10k miles on that clutch which was about 5 years worth of driving.
06-25-2018, 03:30 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2008
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
I had planned to do a 100 shot on top of the h/c/i, so I went to the twin disc. It was recommended by AMP as they have experience with Spec. I don't drag race it, and it is not my DD. (I had another shop recommend the Centerforce Dyad also).
06-25-2018, 04:14 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
That makes sense. Did you add the shot? If you did, could you hook it at all? At 515 torque, I don't want more power but I'd give my right arm for more traction.
06-25-2018, 04:22 PM
#9
Safety Car
Not to derail the intended topic, but have you tried R888R or NT05R? I run the NT05R on my twin turbo C5Z and the R888R on my C6ZR1. No complaints with either tire...far superior grip to any regular radial, IMHO. You may not want to sacrifice any handling, so I realize that may rule out a drag radial for you.
06-26-2018, 01:34 PM
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ya, I'm a road racer at heart and turn in and stoping power are very important to me as well as overall driving feel. The last time I had the car corner weighted, it came out at 2860 lbs total and is a blast to drive. My favorite tire has been the Michelin PS 2 and I am now running the Pilot Super Sport. I am kind of limited by my 345 rear tire size. I have even run Pilot Sport Cups. They worked pretty well for a couple months then the heat cycles hardened them up until they weren't any better than the PS-2's. At my current weight distribution (50.5 front and 49.5 rear) I guess it's probably time for another round of weight reduction mods focusing on the front. A 48/52 balance is what I'd like to see but at this stage, it's getting a bit pricy since the Arizona desert won't allow me to give up my A/C. Man, life is so unfair!
06-26-2018, 01:42 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: Lower RGV
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St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
For traction, you may consider going to a 17" wheel and drag radial combo. Tires are less expensive in that size too.
06-26-2018, 02:08 PM
#12
Le Mans Master
Wow. Several years on a single disc clutch at 620+rwtq is very impressive. My guess is that you are fairly easy on your clutches. I am also. Not that many guys out there really understand the total effects of unnecessary stress on your car and equipment. Thanks for the info. They sound like they really know what they are doing. I am a little surprised that they aren't more popular. Their prices seem to be pretty reasonable.
Gary
06-26-2018, 05:47 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Ya, I'm a road racer at heart and turn in and stoping power are very important to me as well as overall driving feel. The last time I had the car corner weighted, it came out at 2860 lbs total and is a blast to drive. My favorite tire has been the Michelin PS 2 and I am now running the Pilot Super Sport. I am kind of limited by my 345 rear tire size. I have even run Pilot Sport Cups. They worked pretty well for a couple months then the heat cycles hardened them up until they weren't any better than the PS-2's. At my current weight distribution (50.5 front and 49.5 rear) I guess it's probably time for another round of weight reduction mods focusing on the front. A 48/52 balance is what I'd like to see but at this stage, it's getting a bit pricy since the Arizona desert won't allow me to give up my A/C. Man, life is so unfair!
06-26-2018, 06:27 PM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
I have over 6 pages of things I have done. It has been a 7 year process. Just a few big things but hundreds of little ones. The big trick is to look at absolutely everything and how to make them better. The car is loaded with titanium bolts, titanium exhaust and carbon fiber replacement parts. Some of the things I do without are windshield washer system, sway bars, hood pad and rear speakers. Some of the lighter parts are B&B headers, lighter wheels and tires, Brembo brakes and a 5 pound Shorai battery. I also made tunnel plates out of aluminum honeycomb that is twice the strength ar half the weight of the stock plate. The Akrapovic exhaust was 31 pounds lighter and they are attached to the headers without cats. The big things help but it's the hundreds of little things that add up to make the difference.
06-26-2018, 09:05 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
I have over 6 pages of things I have done. It has been a 7 year process. Just a few big things but hundreds of little ones. The big trick is to look at absolutely everything and how to make them better. The car is loaded with titanium bolts, titanium exhaust and carbon fiber replacement parts. Some of the things I do without are windshield washer system, sway bars, hood pad and rear speakers. Some of the lighter parts are B&B headers, lighter wheels and tires, Brembo brakes and a 5 pound Shorai battery. I also made tunnel plates out of aluminum honeycomb that is twice the strength ar half the weight of the stock plate. The Akrapovic exhaust was 31 pounds lighter and they are attached to the headers without cats. The big things help but it's the hundreds of little things that add up to make the difference.
06-27-2018, 09:35 AM
#16
Le Mans Master
I have over 6 pages of things I have done. It has been a 7 year process. Just a few big things but hundreds of little ones. The big trick is to look at absolutely everything and how to make them better. The car is loaded with titanium bolts, titanium exhaust and carbon fiber replacement parts. Some of the things I do without are windshield washer system, sway bars, hood pad and rear speakers. Some of the lighter parts are B&B headers, lighter wheels and tires, Brembo brakes and a 5 pound Shorai battery. I also made tunnel plates out of aluminum honeycomb that is twice the strength ar half the weight of the stock plate. The Akrapovic exhaust was 31 pounds lighter and they are attached to the headers without cats. The big things help but it's the hundreds of little things that add up to make the difference.
06-28-2018, 04:54 PM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
No threads because I did them for sale but I'll tell you how I did it. I ordered a full 4X8 sheet of aluminum honeycomb from a company Northwest of Denver. It had a 1/8" honeycomb with .020 sheeting and I ordered it precut in 4 2X4' pieces to fit a water jet table. My machinist copied a stock plate and cut me 8 plates. I made a stamping tool to precrush the bolt holes with a 1/2" round flat mounting pad because a bolt will crush the honeycomb and not tighten. I used a hydraulic press to precrush the holes. All 36 holes were bolted together, the plate was mounted in my vise and the open edges were filled in with JB weld. After several applications the edges were drum sanded and finished. The plate came with 36 6X10mm large button head Allen titanium bolts. I eventually sold them all for $355.50 each but I got a lot of flack from forum guys that they were way overpriced to save a little over 5 pounds. They were twice as stiff as the stock plate and a lot of those guys were buying double thickness plates to help stiffen the chassis. This made the honeycomb plate actually 15 pounds lighter than the equivalent aftermarket plate that a lot of guys were buying. I never made any more because after keeping really good records I actually earned a couple cents under $3.00 an hour for my labor. I never advertised on the forum but word got out and I started getting flamed by a bunch of trolls that I was ripping people off by overcharging for my titanium parts. I never intended for my business to make much money but I actually lost money. Interest never really developed in light weight parts the way I thought and the trolls sapped my enthusiasm. I closed the business in 2013 and just do my own thing. My only wish was that some of those guys could actually drive my car because I knew that they had no idea how much of an improvement the weight reduction not only aided acceleration but turn-in, cornering and braking as well. The only thing it wouldn't do is improve your dyno sheet bragging rights.
Last edited by 40YRW8; 07-02-2018 at 03:02 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by 40YRW8:
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06-28-2018, 06:25 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
No threads because I did them for sale but I'll tell you how I did it. I ordered a full 4X8 sheet of aluminum honeycomb from a company Northwest of Denver. It had a 1/8" honeycomb with .020 sheeting and I ordered it precut in 4 2X4' pieces to fit a water jet table. My machinist copied a stock plate and cut me 8 plates. I made a stamping tool to precrush the bolt holes with a 1/2" round flat mounting pad because a bolt will crush the honeycomb and not tighten. I used a hydraulic press to precrush the holes. All 28 holes were bolted together, the plate was mounted in my vise and the open edges were filled in with JB weld. After several applications the edges were drum sanded and finished. The plate came with 28 4X10mm large button head Allen titanium bolts. I eventually sold them all for $650 each but I got a lot of flack from forum guys that they were way overpriced to save a little over 5 pounds. They were twice as stiff as the stock plate and a lot of those guys were buying double thickness plates to help stiffen the chassis. This made the honeycomb plate actually 15 pounds lighter than the equivalent aftermarket plate that a lot of guys were buying. I never made any more because after keeping really good records I actually earned a couple cents under $3.00 an hour for my labor. I never advertised on the forum but word got out and I started getting flamed by a bunch of trolls that I was ripping people off by overcharging for my titanium parts. I never intended for my business to make much money but I actually lost money. Interest never really developed in light weight parts the way I thought and the trolls sapped my enthusiasm. I closed the business in 2010 and just do my own thing. My only wish was that some of those guys could actually drive my car because I knew that they had no idea how much of an improvement the weight reduction not only aided acceleration but turn-in, cornering and braking as well. The only thing it wouldn't do is improve your dyno sheet bragging rights.
06-28-2018, 07:57 PM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
Awesome. I saw some receipts from a guy that replaced every bolt with a titanium counter-part. Let's just say, the amount spent could have bought a nice supercharger setup, lol. I haven't gone crazy with weight reduction but I have done a few things here and there. Bucket seats, no front sway bar, no exhaust, front skinnies, 15" brake conversion and 15" wheels. Should be under 3k lbs for sure. Going to try to weigh it tomorrow.
06-28-2018, 08:03 PM
#20
Drifting
Thread Starter