ssbowtie1

I've been pretty curious about this lately. When you factor in a cam/heads/headers/intake/cai/install/tuning for a max effort LS7 to get to ~600whp, you can spend about the same amount to get a supercharger kit and make about the same power, with less hassles of cam drivability, header issues, intake leaks, etc.

Is it because people slowly mod their cars, so they don't feel the $6-$7k sticker shock?

slow_zo6

nuke61

I did heads/cam because I just like the sound and feel of a heads/cam car, it had nothing to do with money, because I dropped off a B&B only cat-back car and picked up a heads/cam/intake/headers car, with a bill of ~$8k. I had a supercharged C5Z and I just didn't want to go that route again. Even though my C6Z might be slower than my C5Z, I find it more fun to drive.

ssbowtie1

I've heard that as well but there are quite a few boosted LS7s on 4-6lbs running for thousands of miles with no issues. ECS, A&A, TPS, and multiple forum members attest to it.

MTPZ06

If NA doesn't matter to you, sell the car, save the money on the mods and apply it towards a C6 ZR1 if you wanted an FI car. JMO...

ssbowtie1

But why not the best of both worlds with the LS7

I'm just trying to see if I'm missing something because there are way more HCI LS7 than SC LS7s but you can make the same, if not more power without any of the drivability trade offs or dealing with nuances of multiple mods.

redbird555

redcycle13

The feel of a lightweight Z06 is better accentuated with an extremely responsive heads and cam combo IMHO. A supercharged car just feels different, and you would need to experience both to truly understand the differences. With the large displacement of the LS7 you can get similar power to a boosted combo, and retain the lightweight feel.

Unreal

Heads need to be done either way. And 600rwhp of cylinder pressure is same. Walls don't care. Problem is 4-5psi can easily be 700+ .Hard to only make 600

Indepth

You've got a PM incoming.

73DBG

ssbowtie1

On a stock bottom end?

73DBG

73DBG

Unreal

No where near stock bottom ends. All big dollar builds. 1000+ and budget don't belong in same sentence.

Innovate

I would not boost an SBE LS7 unless you run around 700-750 rwhp at most. Most people know this and purchase a C6Z for NA power. That is unless you plan on Darton Sleeves or a whole new ERL/Dart block or something to go boost. Heads would need to be addressed regardless of boost or staying NA.

meanjoe

LS7 was never meant to be boosted.

CASEWORER

Although it was never meant to be boosted this engine responds very well to small and mild levels of boost. 700-750 very easily attainable with only 6 to 7 lbs of boost. However having said that the LS 7 blocks cast iron sleeves are very thin and brittle and IMHHO the above power levels are pushing the limits of the cast Iron sleeves. The stock bottom end is fine up these levels. HP is a addictive drug and once boosted it is very easy to increase levels of boost this engine was just not designed to handle hence the LS 9. If you honestly believe you will stay happy with only small amounts of boost go for it. But BEWARE the urge for more power will rise its ugly head and then you will have a serious problem.

Pb82 Ronin

OP in the typical fashion, I can answer your question with the always correct answer of, "It depends." There are so many factors that contribute to the desired outcome and your overall happiness with your car. For every HCI build, there is likely folks that chose the other way (FI) because it made more sense to them for what ever their criteria for success were. It is not incorrect to say in that most power mods (usually) requires supporting mods. And that's where the sticker shock can skyrocket. The answer is, either way can yield the results you're after. But you have to determine what you're building the car for. Do you want a certain HP, stock like driveability, cheapest on the wallet, best looking/sounding, etc...? It's all relevant. Figure out those questions, then proceed on the path to get you there.

MTPZ06