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[Z06] Bauer Motorsports Build: WCCH All Pro 290, Solid Roller, ERL 454, 14:1 SCR
C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
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[Z06] Bauer Motorsports Build: WCCH All Pro 290, Solid Roller, ERL 454, 14:1 SCR
I ran 40+ cans of torco through my old setup. Yes it leaves a red residue? So what? Are you taking the spark plugs and piston tons to a beauty show? What is the impact of that residue? As far as I can tell and see, nothing. Just like burning gas can leave black carbon residue, so what?
in Virginia E85 is available on the military bases but I am unawhere of any nearby stations that sell it. Since you are military you probably take advantage of fuel sold on base. Btw, I spent 3 months at Camp Pendleton in early 1971 and a 2 week summer camp around 1974. I was in the local Marine reserve unit which changed over to amtracks in 1972.
Semper Fi
Camp Pendleton is awesome. My favorite duty station by far. Semper Fi brother. YAT YAS
I ran 40+ cans of torco through my old setup. Yes it leaves a red residue? So what? Are you taking the spark plugs and piston tons to a beauty show? What is the impact of that residue? As far as I can tell and see, nothing. Just like burning gas can leave black carbon residue, so what?
I can't speak to the Torco residue, I was just wondering if ethanol would remove it. Just spit balling about how Josh can run 91 safely at 14:1.
Correct me if I'm wrong please, but my understanding on carbon deposits is that they lower the detonation threshold, which is kind of important if you're pushing compression ratio limits.
Just spit balling about how Josh can run 91 safely at 14:1.
I drove like Miss Daisy, which was odd for a yellow corvette with shift sector stickers on the doors. Do 70 mph in the right lane and downshift into 5th on all hills Keep load down, no lugging. Dave Steck simply told me "It'll be fine, just don't do any Texas Mile runs that way". Even when I topped off on 91 octane I still had like 3 gallons of E in the tank and ethanol content was still like 20%, so better than pump 91 at 10 percent content.
I drove like Miss Daisy, which was odd for a yellow corvette with shift sector stickers on the doors. Do 70 mph in the right lane and downshift into 5th on all hills Keep load down, no lugging. Dave Steck simply told me "It'll be fine, just don't do any Texas Mile runs that way". Even when I topped off on 91 octane I still had like 3 gallons of E in the tank and ethanol content was still like 20%, so better than pump 91 at 10 percent content.
You're more disciplined than me! haha guess it's an officer vs enlisted difference
I can't speak to the Torco residue, I was just wondering if ethanol would remove it. Just spit balling about how Josh can run 91 safely at 14:1.
Correct me if I'm wrong please, but my understanding on carbon deposits is that they lower the detonation threshold, which is kind of important if you're pushing compression ratio limits.
Agreed, and does the rust stuff behave similarly? Short and long-term effects...does the rust stuff degrade O2 sensors, wideband AFR sensors, spark plugs, catalytic substrate, etc. Obviously all of which can be replaced at some sort of cost...but does it accelerate the rate of replacement? Who knows?
Thank you! I'm really open to your all's advice on best directions. Especially when it comes to setting up this new valvetrain. The T&D's have that very narrow range of adjustment so I'll need to be on top of my game when I take my measurements. Using test springs and then full springs to check for deflection. I'm thinking I need the most precise pushrods I can get so I don't know if Manton or Trend or Smith Brothers will be my best choice. Piston to valve clearance will be especially critical with these heads since the valve locations are moved .080" up towards the intake flange, making radial distance a bit less, especially with the larger 2.250" intake valve.
After some Amsoil break in oil I'm thinking I will make the switch from my usual 5w-30 Amsoil signature series to something like Amsoil Dominator 10w-30. What are your thoughts on oil use for my street application? Rev's might be as high as 8000rpm, depending on the curve.
Agreed, and does the rust stuff behave similarly? Short and long-term effects...does the rust stuff degrade O2 sensors, wideband AFR sensors, spark plugs, catalytic substrate, etc. Obviously all of which can be replaced at some sort of cost...but does it accelerate the rate of replacement? Who knows?
I use Boostane Professional. I have tried both Torco and Boostane but I like Boostane better as you need less of it to get to the same desired octane level and it also does not separate and settle at the bottom of the gas tank. Boostane stays suspended via a proprietary carrier (unlike Torco which can settle). See here: https://vimeo.com/101450801
eff
I don't run cats, don't run rear 02s and I replace my sparkplugs once a year either way. So the orange crap is meaningless to me. It also has no apparent negative effect on the operation of the engine. I simply use 1 bottle per tank of gas at the track and am about 102 octane. Very simple and easy and I don't have to worry about finding race gas or E85 or worrying about detonation/pre-ignition (been there, done that).
Agreed, and does the rust stuff behave similarly? Short and long-term effects...does the rust stuff degrade O2 sensors, wideband AFR sensors, spark plugs, catalytic substrate, etc. Obviously all of which can be replaced at some sort of cost...but does it accelerate the rate of replacement? Who knows?
Those are all good questions. I know after running a few tanks of non torco through, plugs would look fine again. My pistons/chambers/etc showed no orange after a few thousand miles of e50-e85. So I would say yes it burns off. All I ever here is it turns stuff orange, but no one can say what effect that has besides stuff is orange.
Just received the cam from Comp. The MSE finishing process is awesome. Very smooth, zero sharp edges. The quality only seems to improve as time goes on.
I use Boostane Professional. I have tried both Torco and Boostane but I like Boostane better as you need less of it to get to the same desired octane level and it also does not separate and settle at the bottom of the gas tank. Boostane stays suspended via a proprietary carrier (unlike Torco which can settle). See here: https://vimeo.com/101450801
eff
I don't run cats, don't run rear 02s and I replace my sparkplugs once a year either way. So the orange crap is meaningless to me. It also has no apparent negative effect on the operation of the engine. I simply use 1 bottle per tank of gas at the track and am about 102 octane. Very simple and easy and I don't have to worry about finding race gas or E85 or worrying about detonation/pre-ignition (been there, done that).
Good info, thanks. I might look into seeing if it's viable to do a flexflel tune on my build with enough octane boosters for traveling. Maybe on the way back from events Josh won't have to drive like a base Corvette owner? I kid, I kid...
Originally Posted by Unreal
Those are all good questions. I know after running a few tanks of non torco through, plugs would look fine again. My pistons/chambers/etc showed no orange after a few thousand miles of e50-e85. So I would say yes it burns off. All I ever here is it turns stuff orange, but no one can say what effect that has besides stuff is orange.
Thank you! I'm really open to your all's advice on best directions. Especially when it comes to setting up this new valvetrain. The T&D's have that very narrow range of adjustment so I'll need to be on top of my game when I take my measurements. Using test springs and then full springs to check for deflection. I'm thinking I need the most precise pushrods I can get so I don't know if Manton or Trend or Smith Brothers will be my best choice. Piston to valve clearance will be especially critical with these heads since the valve locations are moved .080" up towards the intake flange, making radial distance a bit less, especially with the larger 2.250" intake valve.
After some Amsoil break in oil I'm thinking I will make the switch from my usual 5w-30 Amsoil signature series to something like Amsoil Dominator 10w-30. What are your thoughts on oil use for my street application? Rev's might be as high as 8000rpm, depending on the curve.
I would use the largest diameter push rod that fits in the hole. Don't worry about weight of pushrod. Worry about weight on the valve side. Want to know why I don't use 1/2" diameter pushrods? Because they don't fit, otherwise I would. So I use 3/8" tapered with a .130 wall. The pushrod is the slower moving part of the valve train, so adding a tiny bit of weight here isn't a problem. You would much rather have a pushrod that does not deflect and maintains/spreads the load properly, in addition to the thickest wall possible to resist compression, even if heavier. This greatly assists in valve train stability. I realize you likely know all of this, but those are my personal thoughts.
I personally like Trend, and is what I use. Trend literally developed the Spintron machine in the 90's. Google "Bob Fox" from Trend and Randy Dorton from Hendrick Motorsports. But Manton and Smith Bros are also great and their turn around time on custom lengths seems to be faster than Trend. My Trend were also all custom length after very precise measurements by me due to the limited travel lifters I use (and obviously some other factors).
For oil, you should run Amsoil Dominator (or Zrod) 10w30. Message me your address and phone number and I will ship you a case on me.
Just received the cam from Comp. The MSE finishing process is awesome. Very smooth, zero sharp edges. The quality only seems to improve as time goes on.
My word...what big lobes you have Josh.
Whats its name? Last cam had a name...how about this one?
I would use the largest diameter push rod that fits in the hole. Don't worry about weight of pushrod. Worry about weight on the valve side. Want to know why I don't use 1/2" diameter pushrods? Because they don't fit, otherwise I would. So I use 3/8" tapered with a .130 wall. The pushrod is the slower moving part of the valve train, so adding a tiny bit of weight here isn't a problem. You would much rather have a pushrod that does not deflect and maintains/spreads the load properly, in addition to the thickest wall possible to resist compression, even if heavier. This greatly assists in valve train stability. I realize you likely know all of this, but those are my personal thoughts.
I personally like Trend, and is what I use. Trend literally developed the Spintron machine in the 90's. Google "Bob Fox" from Trend and Randy Dorton from Hendrick Motorsports. But Manton and Smith Bros are also great and their turn around time on custom lengths seems to be faster than Trend. My Trend were also all custom length after very precise measurements by me due to the limited travel lifters I use (and obviously some other factors).
For oil, you should run Amsoil Dominator (or Zrod) 10w30. Message me your address and phone number and I will ship you a case on me.
Good info here. I know guys that run 9/16” pushrods. When you get to the level Josh is at here, with rpm and cam specs, not to mention the steel rockers, run the biggest, strongest pushrod that you can within the limits of the head. If the head can be clearanced for a larger rod, it’s worth the effort to turn 8k plus rpm.
My engine guy was actually talking to me yesterday about two different push rod sizes. Said same thing as Mordeth, biggest rod that will fit in the hole. So 7/16 on thick wall on intake and 3/8" something on exhaust. Or maybe the opposite, but something like that.
07-11-2018, 04:16 PM
Keep load down, no lugging. Dave Steck simply told me "It'll be fine, just don't do any Texas Mile runs that way". Even when I topped off on 91 octane I still had like 3 gallons of E in the tank and ethanol content was still like 20%, so better than pump 91 at 10 percent content.
