Mighty Mouse Catch Can
#21
Supporting Vendor
Hey guys, first, I am happy to answer questions via the website www.mightymousesolutions.com contact page or direct email mightymousesolutions@gmail.com or by private message here; So please do not ever have a question go without getting a direct answer from the source!
Recirculate / Road race top option:
The fitting top does not need to be overthought. it quite literally is any one of my catch can fittings, mounted to the top vent portion of the can instead of the air filter breather. this does not change any other function.
The air filter breather is far and away the most popular and thus the default, but some scenarios lend itself to the fitting top up to 1200hp:
-higher approval rating during visual inspection by some racing bodies and emissions
-customer preference of fumes vent location to minimize odor at high load
-minimize direct contact of oil to hot engine bay when the can is allowed to overflow (not drained when needed)
-maximize passive crankcase scavenging using low pressure at engine air supply on trade for maximizing crank fumes consumption
Mild Vs. WILD systems option:
It is a common misconception that this is agood vs. best scenario, and that is incorrect. both are the BEST depending on what you need.
-mild system connects between factory pcv control point (valley plate on this model) and the intake manifold
-this allows maximum oil control and some extra flow control, as this model can still includes the vent top.
-venting capacity is limited due to this being attached via the factory PCV return, and thus flow regulated down by the factory PCV and stock hose sizes.
-installation is typically quicker / easier than WILD, and the systems typically cost less
-inspection of the air bridge pipe where the oil tank connects to it for oil leaving can be a sign of mild still being the best choice, or not.
-Wild systems are for when the factory PCV arrangement is not getting the job done any more for reasons like: extreme oil consumption, external oil loss at seals/ gaskets, significant increases in power level and therefore associated crankcase airflows, other crankcase flow related issue like dipstick popping out, pumping losses, or other special use needing more control of the system.
-The original PCV strategy is abandoned, and an all new high flow, boost friendly PCV system in-a-can is implemented were we are in charge of how the system needs to run and or how we want it to run. Like your heavy duty clutch or larger fuel injectors, very much necessary supporting mod for big hp. This is why sometimes the valley port is retired / capped.
-These systems usually come in tiers 800,1000,and 1200hp rated before needing custom build / consultation for more. Capacity / HP rating is dictated by the new vent line assembly size vs stock.
-This new layout allows for any excess flow to simply 'leave' the system out the top vent (after being cleaned) and avoid pressure build up. Default installation also significantly reduces crank fumes consumption in favor of clean cool oxygen rich air for more powerful combustion.
-There are tweaks to the installation that can be made to further target goals, as needed past the suggested install method.
-This version should be implemented with extreme caution during extended use such as circuit racing, and really avoided if not absolutely needed, as they can move significant volumes of air/oil quickly.
All of my cans and systems are modular, so any purchase is future upgradable for a different power level, vehicle, or application with some simple parts swapping under my advisement.
Recirculate / Road race top option:
The fitting top does not need to be overthought. it quite literally is any one of my catch can fittings, mounted to the top vent portion of the can instead of the air filter breather. this does not change any other function.
The air filter breather is far and away the most popular and thus the default, but some scenarios lend itself to the fitting top up to 1200hp:
-higher approval rating during visual inspection by some racing bodies and emissions
-customer preference of fumes vent location to minimize odor at high load
-minimize direct contact of oil to hot engine bay when the can is allowed to overflow (not drained when needed)
-maximize passive crankcase scavenging using low pressure at engine air supply on trade for maximizing crank fumes consumption
Mild Vs. WILD systems option:
It is a common misconception that this is agood vs. best scenario, and that is incorrect. both are the BEST depending on what you need.
-mild system connects between factory pcv control point (valley plate on this model) and the intake manifold
-this allows maximum oil control and some extra flow control, as this model can still includes the vent top.
-venting capacity is limited due to this being attached via the factory PCV return, and thus flow regulated down by the factory PCV and stock hose sizes.
-installation is typically quicker / easier than WILD, and the systems typically cost less
-inspection of the air bridge pipe where the oil tank connects to it for oil leaving can be a sign of mild still being the best choice, or not.
-Wild systems are for when the factory PCV arrangement is not getting the job done any more for reasons like: extreme oil consumption, external oil loss at seals/ gaskets, significant increases in power level and therefore associated crankcase airflows, other crankcase flow related issue like dipstick popping out, pumping losses, or other special use needing more control of the system.
-The original PCV strategy is abandoned, and an all new high flow, boost friendly PCV system in-a-can is implemented were we are in charge of how the system needs to run and or how we want it to run. Like your heavy duty clutch or larger fuel injectors, very much necessary supporting mod for big hp. This is why sometimes the valley port is retired / capped.
-These systems usually come in tiers 800,1000,and 1200hp rated before needing custom build / consultation for more. Capacity / HP rating is dictated by the new vent line assembly size vs stock.
-This new layout allows for any excess flow to simply 'leave' the system out the top vent (after being cleaned) and avoid pressure build up. Default installation also significantly reduces crank fumes consumption in favor of clean cool oxygen rich air for more powerful combustion.
-There are tweaks to the installation that can be made to further target goals, as needed past the suggested install method.
-This version should be implemented with extreme caution during extended use such as circuit racing, and really avoided if not absolutely needed, as they can move significant volumes of air/oil quickly.
All of my cans and systems are modular, so any purchase is future upgradable for a different power level, vehicle, or application with some simple parts swapping under my advisement.
__________________
Solutions for the common gearhead #made in USA
mightymousesolutions.com
facebok.com/mightymousesolutions
#mmsolutions
Six time NMCA True Street Champions
Home of the first Twin Turbo C7Z 7.81 @ 176
3470# Stock bottom end and heads Corvette Stock Bottom End Record Holder
Solutions for the common gearhead #made in USA
mightymousesolutions.com
facebok.com/mightymousesolutions
#mmsolutions
Six time NMCA True Street Champions
Home of the first Twin Turbo C7Z 7.81 @ 176
3470# Stock bottom end and heads Corvette Stock Bottom End Record Holder
Last edited by David@MMS; 08-22-2018 at 10:40 AM.
#22
Racer
Hey guys, first, I am happy to answer questions via the website www.mightymousesolutions.com contact page or direct email mightymousesolutions@gmail.com or by private message here; So please do not ever have a question go without getting a direct answer from the source!
Last edited by TRDNiteLife; 08-21-2018 at 01:31 PM.
#23
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hey guys, first, I am happy to answer questions via the website www.mightymousesolutions.com contact page or direct email mightymousesolutions@gmail.com or by private message here; So please do not ever have a question go without getting a direct answer from the source!
Recirculate / Road race top option:
The fitting top does not need to be overthought. it quite literally is any one of my catch can fittings, mounted to the top vent portion of the can instead of the air filter breather. this does not change any other function.
The air filter breather is far and away the most popular and thus the default, but some scenarios lend itself to the fitting top up to 1200hp:
-higher approval rating during visual inspection by some racing bodies and emissions
-customer preference of fumes vent location to minimize odor at high load
-minimize direct contact of oil to hot engine bay when the can is allowed to overflow (not drained when needed)
-maximize passive crankcase scavenging using low pressure at engine air supply on trade for maximizing crank fumes consumption
Mild Vs. WILD systems option:
It is a common misconception that this is agood vs. best scenario, and that is incorrect. both are the BEST depending on what you need.
-mild system connects between factory pcv control point (valley plate on this model) and the intake manifold
-this allows maximum oil control and some extra flow control, as this model can still includes the vent top.
-venting capacity is limited due to this being attached via the factory PCV return, and thus flow regulated down by the factory PCV and stock hose sizes.
-installation is typically quicker / easier than WILD, and the systems typically cost less
-inspection of the air bridge pipe where the oil tank connects to it for oil leaving can be a sign of mild still being the best choice, or not.
-Wild systems are for when the factory PCV arrangement is not getting the job done any more for reasons like: extreme oil consumption, external oil loss at seals/ gaskets, significant increases in power level and therefore associated crankcase airflows, other crankcase flow related issue like dipstick popping out, pumping losses, or other special use needing more control of the system.
-The original PCV strategy is abandoned, and an all new high flow, boost friendly PCV system in-a-can is implemented were we are in charge of how the system needs to run and or how we want it to run, to meet our wants and needs. Like your heavy duty clutch or larger fuel injectors, very much necessary supporting mod for big hp. This is why sometimes the valley port is retired / capped.
-These systems usually come in tiers 800,1000,and 1200hp rated before needing custom build / consultation for more. Capacity / HP rating is dictated by the new vent line assembly size vs stock.
-This new layout allows for any excess flow to simply 'leave' the system out the top vent (after being cleaned) and avoid pressure build up. Default installation also significantly reduces crank fumes consumption in favor of clean cool oxygen rich air for more powerful combustion.
-There are tweaks to the installation that can be made to further target goals, as needed past the suggested install method.
-This version should be implemented with extreme caution during extended use such as circuit racing, and really avoided if not absolutely needed, as they can move significant volumes quickly.
All of my cans and systems are modular, so any purchase is future upgradable for a different power leve, vehicle, or application with some simple parts swapping under my advisement.
Recirculate / Road race top option:
The fitting top does not need to be overthought. it quite literally is any one of my catch can fittings, mounted to the top vent portion of the can instead of the air filter breather. this does not change any other function.
The air filter breather is far and away the most popular and thus the default, but some scenarios lend itself to the fitting top up to 1200hp:
-higher approval rating during visual inspection by some racing bodies and emissions
-customer preference of fumes vent location to minimize odor at high load
-minimize direct contact of oil to hot engine bay when the can is allowed to overflow (not drained when needed)
-maximize passive crankcase scavenging using low pressure at engine air supply on trade for maximizing crank fumes consumption
Mild Vs. WILD systems option:
It is a common misconception that this is agood vs. best scenario, and that is incorrect. both are the BEST depending on what you need.
-mild system connects between factory pcv control point (valley plate on this model) and the intake manifold
-this allows maximum oil control and some extra flow control, as this model can still includes the vent top.
-venting capacity is limited due to this being attached via the factory PCV return, and thus flow regulated down by the factory PCV and stock hose sizes.
-installation is typically quicker / easier than WILD, and the systems typically cost less
-inspection of the air bridge pipe where the oil tank connects to it for oil leaving can be a sign of mild still being the best choice, or not.
-Wild systems are for when the factory PCV arrangement is not getting the job done any more for reasons like: extreme oil consumption, external oil loss at seals/ gaskets, significant increases in power level and therefore associated crankcase airflows, other crankcase flow related issue like dipstick popping out, pumping losses, or other special use needing more control of the system.
-The original PCV strategy is abandoned, and an all new high flow, boost friendly PCV system in-a-can is implemented were we are in charge of how the system needs to run and or how we want it to run, to meet our wants and needs. Like your heavy duty clutch or larger fuel injectors, very much necessary supporting mod for big hp. This is why sometimes the valley port is retired / capped.
-These systems usually come in tiers 800,1000,and 1200hp rated before needing custom build / consultation for more. Capacity / HP rating is dictated by the new vent line assembly size vs stock.
-This new layout allows for any excess flow to simply 'leave' the system out the top vent (after being cleaned) and avoid pressure build up. Default installation also significantly reduces crank fumes consumption in favor of clean cool oxygen rich air for more powerful combustion.
-There are tweaks to the installation that can be made to further target goals, as needed past the suggested install method.
-This version should be implemented with extreme caution during extended use such as circuit racing, and really avoided if not absolutely needed, as they can move significant volumes quickly.
All of my cans and systems are modular, so any purchase is future upgradable for a different power leve, vehicle, or application with some simple parts swapping under my advisement.
#24
Nice write up Mordeth. Is anybody running one of these that is not road racing? Im curious how much or you are catching if any? Here is the response that MMS gave me.
The wild is if you are making over 700, or some other special need, like boost or a crank pressure problem
The wild is if you are making over 700, or some other special need, like boost or a crank pressure problem
It it has an oil sight window on it but I have not seen the oil up to that level yet so I haven't opened it up to see how much it's actually catching or specifically, what's coming out of the engine.
Last edited by Millenium Z06; 08-21-2018 at 03:17 PM.
#25
I had the MM PCV can on for about a year in PCV mode connected to the intake before modded the valve covers and running 2 -10 lines.
During extended 4th gear runs at runway events, the stock system did exactly as Dave explained and could evacuate the crank case and would cause some minor oil leaks.
leaks.
Switching the setup to -10 lines solved that issue and the MM can works perfectly. In the PCV configuration, the can caught any oil trying to come out thru the PCV system, intake ports were dry.
During extended 4th gear runs at runway events, the stock system did exactly as Dave explained and could evacuate the crank case and would cause some minor oil leaks.
leaks.
Switching the setup to -10 lines solved that issue and the MM can works perfectly. In the PCV configuration, the can caught any oil trying to come out thru the PCV system, intake ports were dry.
The following users liked this post:
David@MMS (08-22-2018)
#26
Tether Man
Member Since: Dec 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, South Hills
Posts: 4,536
Received 2,014 Likes
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2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
#27
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#28
Melting Slicks
Nope. Mild setup. Wild is not needed for most NA applications. My lines are run to valley nipple and to intake manifold, which is the proper way to route it. Basically the can sits in between them (connected via the hoses), which effectively replaces the small hose that used to connect the valley nipple to the manifold. The only difference is I don't use a breather. My car is raced in endurance conditions and if the can fills up and overflows I don't want it squirting a hot oil mist all across my hot engine and headers, which will cause a fire. So if can overflows it goes out the top hose which is routed to simply dump the excess oil out of the car (this has never happened by the way, as I always empty it and know how many hours of run time before it fills - I just use the overflow hose in case one day I forget). If you don't race the car in endurance conditions you will never have this problem and can use a breather with a check valve (he supplies it as standard).
Here is how mine is routed (except no breather):
Here is how mine is routed (except no breather):
#29
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,734
Received 1,678 Likes
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
It's not ideal but right now I run the hose into the inside front passenger fender, right next to the dry sump tank and then to the bottom of the car and out, but not to a spot where the tire contacts the ground. I am religious about draining it though. Part of my pre-flight inspection that I literally never, ever, ever forget as I use a log book. I will be adding more capacity soon though. Right now I get about an hour or so of run time before it needs draining. Understand that this is a full hour of WOT at 4k-7k RPMs....not putting around town or blasting down a freeway. My races are 30 minutes but they will be extended next year so I want more capacity . If I drive it like a normal person I would probably only have to drain it a few times a year.
#31
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 2,734
Received 1,678 Likes
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878 Posts
2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
Yes, but then that also has to be checked and drained, and could overflow as well. It's a never ending cycle. Additionally, if you add too much capacity then you could get complacent and end up allowing too much oil to be pulled out of the motor and end up starving it. So it is a balancing act. You want sufficient capacity but you also need to check it frequently when the motor is run at WOT for extended periods of time. I have sufficient capacity currently based on my use (30 minute races). I will add capacity next year as my use will change (longer races).
#33
Melting Slicks
I'm hoping that overflowing is not a concern. We'll see. With the heads that just came off the car I would have had to empty it after every 20 minute session or it would have overflowed for sure. With the heads that I just put the car on I hope not to have the issue for quite some time to come. But surprises and unplanned issues always come up and I'd rather think of the possibilities before, not after. I was thinking down the side of the tank and out the bottom of the fender too, as it's the most obvious place, but I noticed that puts it the overflow in a line with the rear tire. But I guess there really is no place that misses the exhaust, the tires, the track, or someone's windshield.
#34
Hi guys i have question with my Catch Can system I have uploaded pictures i hope you can help me further.
I do not know if there would be problems with the vacuum system.
I would like to breathe my oil tank into the open air or connect a neat catch tank.
Can I just close in front of the throttle without any problems with the oil tank.
Thank you very much for your help
I do not know if there would be problems with the vacuum system.
I would like to breathe my oil tank into the open air or connect a neat catch tank.
Can I just close in front of the throttle without any problems with the oil tank.
Thank you very much for your help
#35
Installed my MM catch can today. Thanks David for answering my questions and shipping so fast. Very easy install, Hardest part was getting the hose off the valley port, but once I got the right pliers that was easy.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jaybird29:
David@MMS (08-27-2018),
Peter_Werks (05-25-2020)
#38
Supporting Vendor
the forward dry sump port is the beginning of the pcv system, where clean filtered and maf measured air is borrowed from main supply and starts its journey through the crankcase with job to collect moisture and contaminants before being drawn through pcv return to intake manifold for burn
so no, you cannot disrupt any part of the pcv system without expecting some side effect (like pcv system not working right and thus engine and car becoming unhappy about it)
if you are getting oil from oil tank to air bridge then:
1. you have put too much oil in your car
2. you are having a breathing or other crankcase flow related issue, and that should be rectified
*note* if you are having oil blowing out of the engine, anywhere REMEMBER oil is the side effect and AIR is the issue.
Fix the air flow problem and the oil will usually go away
-installing a sealed type catch can, check valve, or literally anything in-line of a hose like this will further restrict it. so for example the oil leaving the hose may decrease, but the crankcase pressure causing the problem will only get worse.
so no, you cannot disrupt any part of the pcv system without expecting some side effect (like pcv system not working right and thus engine and car becoming unhappy about it)
if you are getting oil from oil tank to air bridge then:
1. you have put too much oil in your car
2. you are having a breathing or other crankcase flow related issue, and that should be rectified
*note* if you are having oil blowing out of the engine, anywhere REMEMBER oil is the side effect and AIR is the issue.
Fix the air flow problem and the oil will usually go away
-installing a sealed type catch can, check valve, or literally anything in-line of a hose like this will further restrict it. so for example the oil leaving the hose may decrease, but the crankcase pressure causing the problem will only get worse.
Hi guys i have question with my Catch Can system I have uploaded pictures i hope you can help me further.
I do not know if there would be problems with the vacuum system.
I would like to breathe my oil tank into the open air or connect a neat catch tank.
Can I just close in front of the throttle without any problems with the oil tank.
Thank you very much for your help
I do not know if there would be problems with the vacuum system.
I would like to breathe my oil tank into the open air or connect a neat catch tank.
Can I just close in front of the throttle without any problems with the oil tank.
Thank you very much for your help
Last edited by David@MMS; 08-27-2018 at 09:50 AM.
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hy_bmw_freak (10-07-2018)
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MIGHTYM0USE (08-27-2018)
#40
Hallo David thanks a Lot for your answer
also i have no issues yet I think that's easy make a clean air without oil blow off in my intake system.
here is that's what I mean.
I dont Know how much Vakuum need the Engine under Full throttle. I think the atmospheric air filter on the oil tank is enough.
I hope you understand me
Last edited by hy_bmw_freak; 08-27-2018 at 02:27 PM.