~STOLEN~

hey guys, ive tossed around going further on this car with the set up but im realizing that i just wanna be able to hop in the car and go with out worry these days. I feel like i will get much more use out of the car on a day to day basis with a MILD setup.
currently i have a larger cam (660/660===236/256===111) fast 102 / NW 102 and ported heads with a plate kit.
it made 590/540 on motor

i want to head back towards drivability, so stock intake and TB, mild cam and no nitrous, dont care what it makes just want to drive it to work and anywhere else and enjoy the car.

what is a good cam to base this goal around? keep in mind i still want it to sound good LOL

thanks in advance

cseaman

I don't have any first hand experience with any cams besides the BTR2 that I did, but I had some amazing results with it on OEM IM/TB and OE exhaust manifolds w/ gutted cats...550whp/501wtq on 91 octane. I also put 24k miles on it in 14 months (including winter storage time). Highway driving (multiple 1000+ mile road trips) and around town and it pretty much performed flawlessly.

MTPZ06

BTR2 is a great cam, Stage 1 or 2 Cam Motion cams, or ship your OE intake and TB to Kohle at AHP for some porting and grab his 116 cam.

JesC6Z

FNBADAZ06

Why not just keep the manifold and throttle body on and switch to a very mild cam, or stock cam ?
You think those two items are causing drivability issues ?

~STOLEN~

First off, thanks for the time to reply fellas, i apologize i made this post and then fell asleep last night LOL

i wouldnt be putting near those miles on the car but currently im only driving it on friday and saturday here and there. I would like to step that up to maybe running errands and a couple days to work as well. 15mi round trip.

ill have to check those out, seems like they dont release the lift on their cams so i assume they tell you the springs that match their cams etc.

i may take you up on that intake my friend. to have all that money tied up in the intake/tb i just assume get rid of it

i could use the money elsewhere based on the fact that i have full exhaust and ported heads on the car, the amount of money tied up in it vs the 20 some hp i may be getting isnt worth keeping. PLUS i have money from the nitrous kit thats on the car currently to put towards a nice balancer. At this point, i believe the cam is the problem child in this situation. Dont get me wrong, WOT its on point, but im only getting out to play maybe once a month now and it isnt worth keeping for that day of the month anymore. Id like to have it to drive to and from work and trips here and there.

TXGS507

Exactly.. Both the intake/TB not only increase HP/TQ but also make the car more efficient.

RedZ4me

Have a stock cam with only 4500 miles that available.

Indepth

Why not just go to a stock cam with a low boost centri setup? Plenty of guys running around with 5 psi or so making good power when coupled with 93 + meth or E85 - both of which are accessible in IN from what I understand.

A stock cam setup with a low boost centri setup will get you somewhere around 600-650rwhp depending on tune and other parts you keep/sell. This way you retain your current power level or add a few AND get your drivability back tenfold. Only downside is the cost of that route is a bit more expensive than just throwing a very mild cam into the car.

~STOLEN~

e85 is very accessible here, 1.5 miles from the house is a pump at meijer LOL
I'll have to really put some thought into putting a blower on it and all the extra money, the car has 66,xxx miles on it and has had about 10 bottles thorugh it on a 100 shot.....so throwing boost to it to possibly daily drive it kinda sways me away. The money i could snag from selling these other parts and the nitrous kit will highly offset the cost of swapping the cam out and putting a new balancer on the car. Keep in mind i want to drive more and spend less time/money on the car.

Indepth

I suppose it's time to make the call - do you plan on keeping the car long term or just in the interim?

If you plan on just keeping it in the interim then 'modding down' the car might be beneficial for more enjoyment while you own it and allow for an easier sale to a larger buyer base later.

However, if you plan on keeping the car long term then address your concerns on the motor internals and either re-work the LS7 or grab a new block and build a conservative build on a block better suited for boost.

BigVette427

Very happy with my results once I got rid of the secondary pair of cats and added an Airaid intake. Superior parts selected for durability and longevity. 520 rwhp on a Mustang Dyno is more than my ZR1 sized Michelin PSS's can handle anyways; not sure what the difference in the quarter mile really is without drag radials between say a 550rwhp and a 600rwhp C6 Corvette?!

roastin300

Run a cam with less than 6 degrees of overlap and it will behave like stock when tuned correctly, but make a good bit more power than the factory cam and have a slight chop to it. I just spec'd a cam for a customer (I use Cam Motion and EPS, in this particular case Cam Motion) and he had similar requests as you. He runs factory intake manifold/throttle body, factory exhaust manifolds and mid pipes, with an aftermarket exhaust behind that. Stock shortblock with ported factory heads (stock CR) with 93 octane always. He wanted longevity and moderate performance and excellent driveability. He plans to use this as his 90% daily driver. I went with a milder lobe and lift to help with this.

I went with:

228/240 @ 0.050 duration
0.630/0.612 lift
115 LSA
111 ICL
Has 4 degrees of overlap
IVO = 3 BTDC
IVC = 45 ABDC
EVO = 59 BBDC
EVC = 1 ATDC

The car drives great, makes great power and torque (seat of the pants, havent dynoed yet, I street tuned it), has a mild chop, still gets great gas mileage, zero surge, no DCR knock issues with 93 octane. I kept the split at 12 degrees because he does intend on installing longtubes and having me retune down the road. Otherwise I would have made the split closer to 16 degrees. Hope this helps

-John
Roastin Performance LLC

roastin300

Quick search reveals I am not the only one approaching this similarly:

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5092-t...s-114-lsa.aspx

FNBADAZ06

Sounds like you're making a financial decision, and no one could fault you for that
If you don't compete with the car (racing,dyno comparisons, etc.) then a stock LS7 (with heads addressed) is perfect.
Good luck with your decision

cv67

Agreed! Keep whats helping you get rid of the problem..the cam.
A member recently posted about whats probably a perfect driver cam that you can still hear a little, was 218@050. Id think a 224ish would land you in a similar
Gentle ramp dont go nuts on lift no worries.

~STOLEN~

im gonna call and talk to john @ tsp about this cam LOL

NemeZ

~STOLEN~

going out on a limb here but do you have a idle clip of that car by any chance? LOL

slammin86

Ahp116