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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
so i was getting some fluctuating iat2 readings and figured the sensor was going out... ordered a new acdelco unit from rock auto and pulled the old one...
i figured i'd see some oil residue as i only have a mm mild catch can between valley and snout, and the oem pcv system is still routed via valve covers > oil tank> intake...
instead i found a rusty orange residue, that was similar to oil.... but when i did my final fill of the intercooler system, i used oem orange coolant....
(edit: running lingenfelter aftermarket bricks, not oem or oem reinforced)
ive never used torco or any octane booster, normal 93 gas, but the sensor is pretty far away from the injector tips, so idk how fuel would even get that far back anyway...
anyone else seen this? maybe its some fine powder from the coating of the rotors thats rusting somehow?
it looks brown, but its definitely more orange.... and it just has the odor of intake tract, no noticeable coolant odor.....
also the "clip nub" was facing the forward of the car (3 oclock position) like in picture #3... so the oily orange residue is facing down towards the port and injectors....
im a little paranoid i might have a very tiny leak in the brick, but can't pull the lid just yet...
ive got a big cooling project coming up (new lid, bricks, intercooler, trunk tank) and i dont want to start that early.
gonna order a new borescope from amazon and pull the iat sensor again to see if there's more on the inside.....
You didn't mention if your engine is modified or tuned. FWIW, I found mine to be leaking from the passenger side brick, back by cylinder #8. When I pulled the lid you could see that the fins were bent at the very back with some pieces missing that I assumed were ingested by the engine. Borescope inspection did reveal some scratches but compression wasn't down by much.
The reinforced replacement bricks that I got looked like OEM bricks with about a 1/2" plate welded on each end right where mine failed. When I bought the car it had a Lingenfelter 710 kit already installed. The car was putting out 600HP and 611LB/FT on the dyno at the time. Good luck with your fix.
BTW, if you have your car tuned and the tuner has the fan come on earlier and at 100% (I believe that gm sets the max speed at around 85%), your next point of failure will be the fan. Actually, it's not the fan or the fan controller, it will be the connector on the back side of the fan shroud that supplies power to the fan. As I recall, the fan is a 60 amp circuit. The connector is rated at 40 amps and it will eventually melt to the point that you lose power to the fan and then you will over heat. It happened to me and several of my friends who had their ZR1s and Z06s tuned.
You didn't mention if your engine is modified or tuned. FWIW, I found mine to be leaking from the passenger side brick, back by cylinder #8. When I pulled the lid you could see that the fins were bent at the very back with some pieces missing that I assumed were ingested by the engine. Borescope inspection did reveal some scratches but compression wasn't down by much.
The reinforced replacement bricks that I got looked like OEM bricks with about a 1/2" plate welded on each end right where mine failed. When I bought the car it had a Lingenfelter 710 kit already installed. The car was putting out 600HP and 611LB/FT on the dyno at the time. Good luck with your fix.
BTW, if you have your car tuned and the tuner has the fan come on earlier and at 100% (I believe that gm sets the max speed at around 85%), your next point of failure will be the fan. Actually, it's not the fan or the fan controller, it will be the connector on the back side of the fan shroud that supplies power to the fan. As I recall, the fan is a 60 amp circuit. The connector is rated at 40 amps and it will eventually melt to the point that you lose power to the fan and then you will over heat. It happened to me and several of my friends who had their ZR1s and Z06s tuned.
yeah those are the LPE aftermarket bricks (not oem reinforced), which is why i'm a little shocked....
i'm running the lpe snout with a 2.35" upper and 70mm idlers, stock long block.... had it tuned at a shop and was putting down over 700/700 to the wheels on e50 at that time...
going to be swapping in C&R bricks along with the synergy lid.... edelbrock HX modified by synergy, and their 5 gal trunk tank as soon as i can get the z06 back on the ground...
i was going to do heads/cam but i need to put that on hold due to life reasons...
im hoping to wrap the z06 next weekend so i can drive/tune that and get the zr1 project underway...
i picked up the tuning school LS books/material a couple months back and managed to get a fresh tune dialed in with everything running well, quite literally the week before i noticed this...
fans stay at or below 90%, and along with the above mods, i'm swapping in a dewitts radiator with prospeed fan pwm setup, so that should help bring the temps down all around (and wont have to worry about frying a connector because they have their own power/fuse blocks that run to the post in the fuse box)....
so it remains to be seen what exactly is leaking in the lid combo.... either bricks or inlet/outlets... will be sure to update with that info!
I did the LPE 710 kit first then header's and the lower pulley and a Nick Williams 102. Also have a Kong lid and Kong tank with the Edelbrock heat exchanger.
yeah my iat2's were basically stuck in the 130-150 range with the bricks and the katech heat exchanger... i dont think that thing does a very good job at cooling...
i'm curious to see how the extra coolant along with the bigger hx and bricks will do with this florida heat...
i also have the CPR expansion tank along with the kong fender tank, and it still wasn't enough to get the temps down...
im assuming its the dinky katech hx that really kept me from getting the temps down, its the same size as the stock hx, just double the width...
ive been contemplating adding a co2 spray bar for the edelbrock hx..... co2 is cheap and can definitely cool down that water quickly between/during pulls since it will be hx directly in to the bricks....
the shroud should help do a decent job to keep the co2 away from the intake, but not sure how much that would really affect performance compared to a much lower intake charge temp....
yeah my iat2's were basically stuck in the 130-150 range with the bricks and the katech heat exchanger... i dont think that thing does a very good job at cooling...
i'm curious to see how the extra coolant along with the bigger hx and bricks will do with this florida heat...
i also have the CPR expansion tank along with the kong fender tank, and it still wasn't enough to get the temps down...
im assuming its the dinky katech hx that really kept me from getting the temps down, its the same size as the stock hx, just double the width...
The katech HX is no better than OEM. if you want a good drop in solution do the C&R. Or if you're willing to do some work the edelbrock unit.
The katech HX is no better than OEM. if you want a good drop in solution do the C&R. Or if you're willing to do some work the edelbrock unit.
i know c&r makes some killer stuff, but that looks like the same thing as oem/katech..... do you have experience with both the edelbrock hx vs the c&r direct replacement?
installation/fab work isn't a problem, im just looking for the best possible cooling.... (researched the interchiller stuff, but i dont think thats something i want to mess with at this time)
also, im interested in maybe trying my hand at some water injection or maybe a 50/50 mix to help cool the air charge....
i know c&r makes some killer stuff, but that looks like the same thing as oem/katech..... do you have experience with both the edelbrock hx vs the c&r direct replacement?
installation/fab work isn't a problem, im just looking for the best possible cooling.... (researched the interchiller stuff, but i dont think thats something i want to mess with at this time)
also, im interested in maybe trying my hand at some water injection or maybe a 50/50 mix to help cool the air charge....
we have a lot of experience, we also hold the fastest stock bottom end zr1 half mile record, and we did it with the OEM blower boost only at 190.1.
the edelbrock is a full face design and has a lot of surface area, it is the end all be all. The C&R we have used a lot on customers that don't care to be max effort and on mid 800 wheel combos IAT's in a full 1/4 rip with C&R bricks and our tank usually rise 15-20 degree's.
Meth will help iat's maybe 10'ish degrees if you're spraying pre roto-pack. I would only do pure meth as it will make more power, provide more octane, and disperse better.
we have a lot of experience, we also hold the fastest stock bottom end zr1 half mile record, and we did it with the OEM blower boost only at 190.1.
the edelbrock is a full face design and has a lot of surface area, it is the end all be all. The C&R we have used a lot on customers that don't care to be max effort and on mid 800 wheel combos IAT's in a full 1/4 rip with C&R bricks and our tank usually rise 15-20 degree's.
Meth will help iat's maybe 10'ish degrees if you're spraying pre roto-pack. I would only do pure meth as it will make more power, provide more octane, and disperse better.
right on good to know about the edelbrock... definitely need the best cooling for this heat down here in south florida....
i guess ill save the meth for later, im more interested in seeing how these C&R bricks along with the large HX do with the iat2's...
if i was 15-20 degree rise from iat then id be closer to 110 than 140-150 and that would be significantly better at being able to add some timing....
06-03-2023, 10:07 AM
"orange" in lid?
