When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I don't use the shortened versions. There is no need for them unless you are somehow having clearance issues and using the shorter mounts can actually create clearance issues. So to be perfectly clear, I use AMT Vulcan Motor Mounts that are STANDARD HEIGHT. They fit great and there are no issues.
Clearance for the intake manifold to cowl. Some of us with MSD and FAST intakes can have clearance issues with the cowl. For example in my case I only had about an inch (ONE INCH) of room to lift the engine when I did my AMT motor mount replacement last weekend. I replaced my busted OE mounts with the STANDARD HEIGHT AMT motor mounts.
For the record, it's not "compliance"...in suspension terms it's called "deflection." Any deflection from rubber causes unwanted movement in the actual suspension pieces reducing their ability to do their intended function. The harder the load, the worse the deflection. You should ABSOLUTELY USE the stiffest bushings possible. Heim joints, clevis', Delrin, poly, etc. The reason these cars don't come with these more racy bushings from the factory is because of NVH and manufacturing costs. I've daily driven cars with solid motor and trans mounts with no rubber anywhere in the suspension, and the road noise was only slightly louder than stock. Also easily fixed if you're into car audio. OP don't for one second think that adding better bushings could "all of a sudden" make you lose control of your car...the opposite is true actually. The higher the durometer, the lower the deflection, which means your suspension can do it's job better than it could with crappy rubber in there. You just need to understand that more road/tire noise will be transmitted into the passenger compartment. Fair trade IMO.
For the record, it's not "compliance"...in suspension terms it's called "deflection." Any deflection from rubber causes unwanted movement in the actual suspension pieces reducing their ability to do their intended function. The harder the load, the worse the deflection. You should ABSOLUTELY USE the stiffest bushings possible. Heim joints, clevis', Delrin, poly, etc. The reason these cars don't come with these more racy bushings from the factory is because of NVH and manufacturing costs. I've daily driven cars with solid motor and trans mounts with no rubber anywhere in the suspension, and the road noise was only slightly louder than stock. Also easily fixed if you're into car audio. OP don't for one second think that adding better bushings could "all of a sudden" make you lose control of your car...the opposite is true actually. The higher the durometer, the lower the deflection, which means your suspension can do it's job better than it could with crappy rubber in there. You just need to understand that more road/tire noise will be transmitted into the passenger compartment. Fair trade IMO.
sounds great not not worried about noise as much as the driveline being very stiff would this significantly increase the risk of cracking my trans or diff case or torqtube perhaps?
You won't break anything. Think about it like this. By going solid you're REDUCING flex/movement in the driveline. That movement is now transferred into the car body itself. I've always enjoyed the increase in "feel" of the car when running solids. I've always felt more connected. You could always keep the transmission mount stock or run a urethane like the Pfadt http://store.afecontrol.com/afe-cont...-05-13-orange/ if you're worried about it. Personally, I like the mounts to match. Solid motor mount, solid trans mount, Delrin/Delrin, Urethane/urethane, etc. But, I have also run a solid motor mount with urethane trans mount with zero issue. I'm quite fond of Delrin as is performs just like a solid because it's SUPER hard, but it's a better sound isolator than metal. Kind of the best of both worlds.
EDIT: Just make sure you don't install ONLY a solid or stiffer trans mount. That can increase stress on mounting points of the trans housing when torque from the engine comes on and potentially cause damage/breakage.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 09-20-2018 at 10:54 PM.
From my experience, I tend to agree with the people who Advocate leaving some give in the suspension. I did a complete urethane set up in mine that I just sold and in all truth I'm not sure it was worth the work. It was a hell of a lot of work in a C5 to go to urethane bushings I will say that. The net result was that I now had a car with non run-flat tires that felt like a car with run-flats. I didn't track the car, it was a convertible. So the only thing I was helping was the spirited runs on Mountain Roads around here, which of course there are lots of.
I'll leave it to the guys who know more about it too say whether or not there's a benefit on the track. I will say that in my opinion, from a seat-of-the-pants standpoint, there are times when I would always prefer the car the other way. It just depends upon the road, sometimes I would prefer the stiff suspension and other times I wished I had my stock bushings back. Like with everything, there's compromise.
09-18-2018, 10:31 PM
