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[Z06] Brushing and suspension replacement.

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Old 09-15-2018, 04:33 PM
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Default Brushing and suspension replacement.

What are you guys using out there for control arm bushing replacements, sway bars, engine mounts and trans. Do these make a considerable difference? Mostly street use but would like to improve handling and raw feel significantly.
Old 09-15-2018, 09:08 PM
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I'm on AMT spherical bearings (monoballs) in the control arms, AMT Vulcan motor mounts, AMT delrin lower shock mounts, LG G2 coilovers, AMT camber plates, LG G1 sways, DRM delrin steering rack bushings and full aero. Yes it makes a considerable difference. It's a slot car and there isn't much that can out-corner me. It rides true and flat. The suspension is allowed to do it's job, instead of mushy rubber bushings that we get from the factory. My car is also corner balanced and I run an extremely aggressive alignment.
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Old 09-16-2018, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
I'm on AMT spherical bearings (monoballs) in the control arms, AMT Vulcan motor mounts, AMT delrin lower shock mounts, LG G2 coilovers, AMT camber plates, LG G1 sways, DRM delrin steering rack bushings and full aero. Yes it makes a considerable difference. It's a slot car and there isn't much that can out-corner me. It rides true and flat. The suspension is allowed to do it's job, instead of mushy rubber bushings that we get from the factory. My car is also corner balanced and I run an extremely aggressive alignment.
Thanks moderth for answering, damn! Those things are expensive. Maybe in a few years but instead I’m thinking this, LG G1 sway bars front and back, Pfadt bushing kit, Solid motor mounts shortened 3/8, solid trans mounts, already have pfadt coils. Does this seem like a solid setup? Looking for better handling but for it to also act more raw like a 440 68 charger.

Thanks again
Old 09-16-2018, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostaholic
What are you guys using out there for control arm bushing replacements, sway bars, engine mounts and trans. Do these make a considerable difference? Mostly street use but would like to improve handling and raw feel significantly.
I keep mine stock.
Old 09-16-2018, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostaholic


Thanks moderth for answering, damn! Those things are expensive. Maybe in a few years but instead I’m thinking this, LG G1 sway bars front and back, Pfadt bushing kit, Solid motor mounts shortened 3/8, solid trans mounts, already have pfadt coils. Does this seem like a solid setup? Looking for better handling but for it to also act more raw like a 440 68 charger.

Thanks again
Yes. But why the shorter motor mounts? No reason for them unless you need clearance. And I don't run solid trans mounts.

Originally Posted by usctroj836
I keep mine stock.
Very helpful and useful contribution to this thread, usctroj836.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by usctroj836
I keep mine stock.
lol
Old 09-17-2018, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
Yes. But why the shorter motor mounts? No reason for them unless you need clearance. And I don't run solid trans mounts.


Very helpful and useful contribution to this thread, usctroj836.
I heard that they improve handling and the feel of the car. Also needed it for clearance.. anyother wear and tear item you can replace for anything while the car is completely disassembled.
Old 09-18-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
Yes. But why the shorter motor mounts? No reason for them unless you need clearance. And I don't run solid trans mounts.


Very helpful and useful contribution to this thread, usctroj836.
Did some more research and found solid motor mounts cause false knock is this true? I did not check the pricing on AMT mounts and it’s reasonable! I’m going to go with those instead of LG solid motor mounts cause I don’t want any issue with knock.
Old 09-18-2018, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
I'm on AMT spherical bearings (monoballs) in the control arms, AMT Vulcan motor mounts, AMT delrin lower shock mounts, LG G2 coilovers, AMT camber plates, LG G1 sways, DRM delrin steering rack bushings and full aero. Yes it makes a considerable difference. It's a slot car and there isn't much that can out-corner me. It rides true and flat. The suspension is allowed to do it's job, instead of mushy rubber bushings that we get from the factory. My car is also corner balanced and I run an extremely aggressive alignment.
That is pretty awesome. FYI though to anyone reading that, doing those mods on a mostly street driven car is gonna hurt you more than help you. On a perfectly flat track these mods are amazing but on the street with potholes and uneven surfaces, the lack of compliance will cause the car to overload it's suspension quicker and cause grip to be lost more suddenly (such as snap oversteer). Some compliance is good on street cars.
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Old 09-18-2018, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by SivaSuryaKshatriya
That is pretty awesome. FYI though to anyone reading that, doing those mods on a mostly street driven car is gonna hurt you more than help you. On a perfectly flat track these mods are amazing but on the street with potholes and uneven surfaces, the lack of compliance will cause the car to overload it's suspension quicker and cause grip to be lost more suddenly (such as snap oversteer). Some compliance is good on street cars.
never thought of it like this thanks, what would you do for a car that’s a daily but beat on as if it were a drag car? Would solid motor and trans mount cause this scare in quick over steer?

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Old 09-18-2018, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostaholic


never thought of it like this thanks, what would you do for a car that’s a daily but beat on as if it were a drag car? Would solid motor and trans mount cause this scare in quick over steer?
I'm no expert on drag racing but I've noticed drag racers tend to keep a lot of compliance in their suspension, which makes sense to me. So for a drag car I'd definitely leave the stock bushings in. Especially if you like to do spirited highway runs on the streets. My fear would be hitting some uneven surfaces on the street at high speeds and losing control because the bushings have no compliance and thus transfer the force directly into the suspension, unsettling the car.

You should be fine with solid motor and trans mounts.

Another downside of polyurethane bushings is they need to be lubricated every so often, I think like 6 months. If they aren't maintained they can seize up and cause really big issues. That all being said I'm probably gonna get polyurethane bushings on my car anyway, which is mostly weekend driven with maybe 8-10 track days a year. I'm just going to be extra careful about what roads I choose to drive spiritedly on, and I'm never gonna go above 70% of the car's capability on the street.
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Old 09-18-2018, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SivaSuryaKshatriya
I'm no expert on drag racing but I've noticed drag racers tend to keep a lot of compliance in their suspension, which makes sense to me. So for a drag car I'd definitely leave the stock bushings in. Especially if you like to do spirited highway runs on the streets. My fear would be hitting some uneven surfaces on the street at high speeds and losing control because the bushings have no compliance and thus transfer the force directly into the suspension, unsettling the car.

You should be fine with solid motor and trans mounts.

Another downside of polyurethane bushings is they need to be lubricated every so often, I think like 6 months. If they aren't maintained they can seize up and cause really big issues. That all being said I'm probably gonna get polyurethane bushings on my car anyway, which is mostly weekend driven with maybe 8-10 track days a year. I'm just going to be extra careful about what roads I choose to drive spiritedly on, and I'm never gonna go above 70% of the car's capability on the street.

any issues running solid front motor mounts and oem rear trans mount?
Old 09-18-2018, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostaholic


Did some more research and found solid motor mounts cause false knock is this true? I did not check the pricing on AMT mounts and it’s reasonable! I’m going to go with those instead of LG solid motor mounts cause I don’t want any issue with knock.
I put solid mounts in this spring and i tune my own car and didn’t notice any difference in knock before or after
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Old 09-18-2018, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostaholic



any issues running solid front motor mounts and oem rear trans mount?
Yes if you do this it will mess up the angle of the TQ tube (pinion angle). It’s all or nothing.
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Old 09-18-2018, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BOTTLE FEDvette


Yes if you do this it will mess up the angle of the TQ tube (pinion angle). It’s all or nothing.
called LG to make sure about it, and they told me to go solid engine mounts stock rear trans mount with rear mono *****. Oh and billet couplers. I’m not to worried about it being loud as the car is already ridiculously loud. But I don’t want something that wines and vibrates when I’m just cruising really bad to the point I don’t want to drive it anymore.
Old 09-18-2018, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mordeth
Yes. But why the shorter motor mounts? No reason for them unless you need clearance. And I don't run solid trans mounts.


Very helpful and useful contribution to this thread, usctroj836.
Other than coil overs what would you run blistein?? And which one I see they have three types.
Old 09-18-2018, 09:43 PM
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Wait for DRM Bilsteins to come in stock, or buy off the shelf Bilstein B8's.

No way I'd go solid motor mounts...Hinson poly's or the AMT ones Mordeth uses.
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Boostaholic


Other than coil overs what would you run blistein?? And which one I see they have three types.
DRM Bilsteins if Randy gets them back in stock at some point. Or consider LG GT2 coilovers.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by MTPZ06
Wait for DRM Bilsteins to come in stock, or buy off the shelf Bilstein B8's.

No way I'd go solid motor mounts...Hinson poly's or the AMT ones Mordeth uses.

Ill wait on the DRM and go with modertha lowered engine mounts and probably just put new oem rear mounts
Old 09-18-2018, 10:11 PM
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I don't use the shortened versions. There is no need for them unless you are somehow having clearance issues and using the shorter mounts can actually create clearance issues. So to be perfectly clear, I use AMT Vulcan Motor Mounts that are STANDARD HEIGHT. They fit great and there are no issues.

Here are my motor mounts:
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