McLeod RXT clutch started slipping
10-01-2018, 08:49 AM
#1
Safety Car
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McLeod RXT clutch started slipping
My McLeod RXT clutch with 22K miles on it just started slipping in the upper gears. It's not a "smooth" slip like I've experienced with other clutches/cars. It's accompanied with some heavy duty shudder. I parked the car for a short time and during the next drive it "seemed" to stop slipping although I didn't push it too hard. If it continues I'll probably send it back to McLeod for a rebuild. It almost feels like it's not engaging 100%. I'm not aware of any engagement adjustments... Any thoughts on the subject??
Here's some pertinent info:
557/540 SAE corrected chassis dyno
stock M/C and slave
Only 1 trip to MIR's 1/4 mile track, the rest 100% street
Installed by ZIP, no problems till now.
Here's some pertinent info:
557/540 SAE corrected chassis dyno
stock M/C and slave
Only 1 trip to MIR's 1/4 mile track, the rest 100% street
Installed by ZIP, no problems till now.
10-01-2018, 09:42 AM
#2
Race Director
12K miles on my HCI (600/520) with McLeod RXT with billet steel flywheel. Most street miles are easy driven, but cam requires slipping the clutch from a start, which it does well. Probably 20+ roll race passes, 2-3 burnouts, several road course days and a few other performance events and mine as been good so far.
Last edited by AzDave47; 10-01-2018 at 05:36 PM.
10-01-2018, 11:09 AM
#3
Also sub’d But I didn’t expect 22k miles honestly. What was your mileage expectations? How have you used the car? Lots a track/strip time? Or just a weekend toy? Which flywheel? I have a new RST going in, I’ll be making more power that you, I’m hoping to get 10k out of the RST with billet steel flywheel, my usage will be occasional strip and mostly weekend or sunny day driving. I know the power I’ll be making I need a better clutch but this is what I have for the time being, so if I get 10k I’ll be happy
10-01-2018, 11:22 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
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I’ve had 2 McLoeds, 1st one lasted about 1,000-1,500 miles. Ripped the rivets off of 1 disc completely. Sent in for warranty and rebuild. Put that one back in and about 4K later did an inspect when doing other mechanical work and found several of the studs pulling out of the aluminum adapter ring. Called McLoed and they wanted $320+ for a new ring (about 1/2 the price of a new clutch!) so I pulled the studs that were pulling and tapped them with a heli coil and then used lock compound on them. (Didn’t have the extra funds for a whole new clutch setup atm). So far so good. But I won’t buy another one. Monster Clutches for me only.
10-01-2018, 12:21 PM
#5
I’ve had 2 McLoeds, 1st one lasted about 1,000-1,500 miles. Ripped the rivets off of 1 disc completely. Sent in for warranty and rebuild. Put that one back in and about 4K later did an inspect when doing other mechanical work and found several of the studs pulling out of the aluminum adapter ring. Called McLoed and they wanted $320+ for a new ring (about 1/2 the price of a new clutch!) so I pulled the studs that were pulling and tapped them with a heli coil and then used lock compound on them. (Didn’t have the extra funds for a whole new clutch setup atm). So far so good. But I won’t buy another one. Monster Clutches for me only.
Then I put a mantic in and the pressure plate "DO NOT TOUCH" bolts came out and almost stiffed me on the replacement until I hammered them with dissassembly videos. 2nd Mantic twin going strong after a few thousand miles and 600 rwhp.
10-01-2018, 02:45 PM
#6
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Also sub’d But I didn’t expect 22k miles honestly. What was your mileage expectations? How have you used the car? Lots a track/strip time? Or just a weekend toy? Which flywheel? I have a new RST going in, I’ll be making more power that you, I’m hoping to get 10k out of the RST with billet steel flywheel, my usage will be occasional strip and mostly weekend or sunny day driving. I know the power I’ll be making I need a better clutch but this is what I have for the time being, so if I get 10k I’ll be happy
It has their billet steel flywheel. I talked to them a little bit ago and I'll be shipping it to them for a rebuild. It's a bit over $500 now. The car will never see a track again so I'm not into spending huge amounts of cash to upgrade to a different clutch. I'll be away for the car for 7 months in a couple weeks so I'll have to deal with this when I return. I'll see how the slave looks when I pull it down. If it's questionable the it'll be replaced too.
10-01-2018, 02:49 PM
#7
I fully expect 100K miles out of the clutch, +/-. In my original post I said that the car has only been to the drag strip once in it's entire 110K mile life. The rest of the time it's easy 100% non-drag radial street, pretty much my daily beater for 7 years until I retired. I've owned it since birth, 12 years ago. When my heads were checked by WCCH at 88K miles there was not 1 single valve guide out of spec. That'll give you an idea on how it's driven and maintained, along with some luck-of-the-draw.
It has their billet steel flywheel. I talked to them a little bit ago and I'll be shipping it to them for a rebuild. It's a bit over $500 now. The car will never see a track again so I'm not into spending huge amounts of cash to upgrade to a different clutch. I'll be away for the car for 7 months in a couple weeks so I'll have to deal with this when I return. I'll see how the slave looks when I pull it down. If it's questionable the it'll be replaced too.
It has their billet steel flywheel. I talked to them a little bit ago and I'll be shipping it to them for a rebuild. It's a bit over $500 now. The car will never see a track again so I'm not into spending huge amounts of cash to upgrade to a different clutch. I'll be away for the car for 7 months in a couple weeks so I'll have to deal with this when I return. I'll see how the slave looks when I pull it down. If it's questionable the it'll be replaced too.
10-01-2018, 03:23 PM
#8
Race Director
IMO, and I know this sucks, but time to fork out the added money and go another route on the clutch. I am going to the LT-1s on mine now. Didn't get that good of milage out of my DYAD and I don't drive mine hard. Never tracked. Always roll on pulls with some high RPM shifts in lower gears. Just didn't give me the miles(just over 20K for me).
10-01-2018, 05:15 PM
#9
I’ve seen reviews of monster clutch’s go both ways, some people love them and swear by the quality while others bash them as useless and would never install in their vette. I spoke with Monster when I had placed an order for a LT-1S, they told me know way that clutch holds 700rwhp/700 torque, I said I had faith in it but they advised against it so I backed out. What I found interesting and I did appreciate it, they had less faith in their own products than I did. I was told directly from monster I would need a triple disc to hold the power I planned on making, which will be in the 700’s
10-01-2018, 07:55 PM
#10
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I see the LT1S goes for around $1100. That wouldn't be too big a pill to swallow. With shipping back and forth to Mcleod and the repair I'd still be looking at around $700. The difference isn't much. Plus... the down time of the lift and car would be a pain too. 5 to 10 days to rebuild equals 3 weeks down.
Other than the LT1S, does anyone else have a clutch they'd recommend for around the same price?
Other than the LT1S, does anyone else have a clutch they'd recommend for around the same price?
10-01-2018, 09:40 PM
#11
I see the LT1S goes for around $1100. That wouldn't be too big a pill to swallow. With shipping back and forth to Mcleod and the repair I'd still be looking at around $700. The difference isn't much. Plus... the down time of the lift and car would be a pain too. 5 to 10 days to rebuild equals 3 weeks down.
Other than the LT1S, does anyone else have a clutch they'd recommend for around the same price?
Other than the LT1S, does anyone else have a clutch they'd recommend for around the same price?
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10-01-2018, 09:44 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
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I’ve seen reviews of monster clutch’s go both ways, some people love them and swear by the quality while others bash them as useless and would never install in their vette. I spoke with Monster when I had placed an order for a LT-1S, they told me know way that clutch holds 700rwhp/700 torque, I said I had faith in it but they advised against it so I backed out. What I found interesting and I did appreciate it, they had less faith in their own products than I did. I was told directly from monster I would need a triple disc to hold the power I planned on making, which will be in the 700’s
thats surprising since steve made me a stage 2 billet twin that can hold north of 1,000hp without batting an eye. I’ve not had issues out of my 3 monster clutches over the years. Customer service has been awesome also.
10-01-2018, 09:58 PM
#13
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I've no plans to increase HP past it's present level. For me, it's plenty for the street. 500 lb ft by 3600 rpm makes it fun too. It sounds like I'll be replacing it with the 700 rwhp/tq LT1S. I'll call Monster first though...
I guess the factory throwout bearing and MC is OK? I don't have a bleeder. Should I invest in one?
I guess the factory throwout bearing and MC is OK? I don't have a bleeder. Should I invest in one?
10-01-2018, 10:05 PM
#14
Team Owner
I've no plans to increase HP past it's present level. For me, it's plenty for the street. 500 lb ft by 3600 rpm makes it fun too. It sounds like I'll be replacing it with the 700 rwhp/tq LT1S. I'll call Monster first though...
I guess the factory throwout bearing and MC is OK? I don't have a bleeder. Should I invest in one?
I guess the factory throwout bearing and MC is OK? I don't have a bleeder. Should I invest in one?
10-01-2018, 10:31 PM
#15
Le Mans Master
For some reason Corvette guys love multi-disc clutches. They're not as reliable as a single plate...that's why OEMs are mostly single plates.
http://www.centerforce.com/products/...e-and-disc-set
I've used that clutch in my Cobra and will use it in my blue ZO6 (had one in my old Z that I sold a while back) when the time comes for a clutch upgrade. FWIW, I drove the car at 780 rwhp for nearly 3 years with ZERO clutch problems. I've also put down over 920 rwhp when the turbos were on kill. Same clutch. I was forever sold and I will always be a proponent of this clutch.
http://www.centerforce.com/products/...e-and-disc-set
I've used that clutch in my Cobra and will use it in my blue ZO6 (had one in my old Z that I sold a while back) when the time comes for a clutch upgrade. FWIW, I drove the car at 780 rwhp for nearly 3 years with ZERO clutch problems. I've also put down over 920 rwhp when the turbos were on kill. Same clutch. I was forever sold and I will always be a proponent of this clutch.
Last edited by Pb82 Ronin; 10-03-2018 at 10:51 AM.
10-01-2018, 11:38 PM
#16
I hear you man, but I’ve got the emails from Steve if you need them posted to believe it I can. My build got out of hand quick so I knew I wasn’t going to have Mantic 9k money, so I checked out Monster and saw lots of reviews on the forum liking the LT-1S. I emailed Steve and provided engine specs/mods and he said the LT-1S was not going to work. I ended up ordering one through Texas Speed anyway and that’s when I got an email from Steve saying he saw my order and was going to flag our emails because he told me the LT-1S wouldn’t hold 700/700 and when I burnt it out he’d have the email chain on record. My replies were this isn’t a track/strip car and I’m not expecting anything crazy like 30-40k miles and that I had confidence in their product and maybe he should too? Again he said no way it won’t hold and the emails are saved, he said I’d need the triple disc and my reply was “for that money I’d buy the mantic” I cancelled the order and got a new in box RST from a forum member for an excellent price, again I’m not expecting a lot from the RST a mantic is in the near future anyway.
10-01-2018, 11:51 PM
#17
I would like to make one thing clear though, Steve from Monster was extremely professional and his honesty and customer service was top notch. I don’t think that was made clear in the other two post. My interactions and emails with Steve@Monster was great, and think he was looking out for my best interests a potential customer and wanted to advise me properly. I have zero experience with his products so I don’t have an opinion on them, only with Steve and it’s was indeed positive even though I didn’t buy a monster clutch. Felt that needed to be made clear.
10-01-2018, 11:57 PM
#18
Race Director
I would like to make one thing clear though, Steve from Monster was extremely professional and his honesty and customer service was top notch. I don’t think that was made clear in the other two post. My interactions and emails with Steve@Monster was great, and think he was looking out for my best interests a potential customer and wanted to advise me properly. I have zero experience with his products so I don’t have an opinion on them, only with Steve and it’s was indeed positive even though I didn’t buy a monster clutch. Felt that needed to be made clear.
10-02-2018, 07:04 AM
#19
Le Mans Master
Dang...a TWIN disc that can't hold 700? Seems pretty limited to me. Another vote for single plate.
10-02-2018, 11:06 AM
#20
I've no plans to increase HP past it's present level. For me, it's plenty for the street. 500 lb ft by 3600 rpm makes it fun too. It sounds like I'll be replacing it with the 700 rwhp/tq LT1S. I'll call Monster first though...
I guess the factory throwout bearing and MC is OK? I don't have a bleeder. Should I invest in one?
I guess the factory throwout bearing and MC is OK? I don't have a bleeder. Should I invest in one?
I would get a bleeder but make sure it's long enough to pull away from the headers. While you're replacing the slave, make sure to wrap your slave connection and bleeder line with some sort of heat protection (I use fire wrap).
Have you gotten the recall done on your car with the Master Cylinder? If not, I would invest in a new one. It's redesigned. It's not too expensive.
For some reason Corvette guys love multi-disc clutches. They're not as reliable as a single plate...that's why OEMs are mostly single plates.
http://www.centerforce.com/products/...e-and-disc-set
I've used that clutch in my Cobra and will use it in my ZO6 when the time comes for a clutch upgrade. FWIW, I drove the car at 780 rwhp for nearly 3 years with ZERO clutch problems. I've also put down over 920 rwhp when the turbos were on kill. Same clutch. I was forever sold and I will always be a proponent of this clutch.
http://www.centerforce.com/products/...e-and-disc-set
I've used that clutch in my Cobra and will use it in my ZO6 when the time comes for a clutch upgrade. FWIW, I drove the car at 780 rwhp for nearly 3 years with ZERO clutch problems. I've also put down over 920 rwhp when the turbos were on kill. Same clutch. I was forever sold and I will always be a proponent of this clutch.
I don't think you understand how clutch manufacturers rate their clutches. Steve is obviously being very conservative with his claims of what a Monster can handle. Any other manufacturer will say "oh yeah our clutch won't slip at 700whp on a dyno" when the important part is the low RPM torque and heat is what destroys a clutch. For example if you road race a clutch, you multiply your torque rating by 60%... so your "920 whp single disc" will be good for maybe 550. So for Monster Clutches to say 700 is too much since they KNOW how their customers drive is better than writing a check their product can't cash (especially when they're on the hook for a warranty).