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Time for valve guides, and a few upgrades while I'm in there
C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
Highway driving with my cam is not bad, driving at all anywhere is not bad other than the new Mantic being a pain as I am not used to it yet haha.
My cam is 248/262 .651/.646 113+3. Power starts to fall off after 66-6700 RPM's. I have not been back on a dyno after the new mods and clutch so I have no idea now. I also have the car apart replacing lifters and going Cometic .040 HG's to bump compression to 12:1. Then the car with get tuned and I will strap her on the dyno then.
If your program does not account for lift, I would definitely take results with a grain of salt. Lift matters.
Agree, the results of the Desktop Dyno are not accurate.
I must admit I surprised the rpm range of your camshaft is low as it is. That is a 29°O/L camshaft. I would have thought it would come on around 5100 rpms and pull hard to 7300 or so. Maybe there is some truth to the mach calculator and its relationship to lift. This definitely throws a curve in my camshaft comparison spreadsheet.
I have the McLeod RXT and a lot don't care for it, but it has good to me so far.
Are there any concerns with doing the heads and having them ported and milled. Then adding a cam at the same time, would this affect reliability for racing? Looking to see where the balance is between reliability and power....
Are there any concerns with doing the heads and having them ported and milled. Then adding a cam at the same time, would this affect reliability for racing? Looking to see where the balance is between reliability and power....
Dave and others that race can provide better input and add a few things to improve racing reliability. I only do the 1/2 and some 1/4 mile racing. I think while you have it apart is a good time to do the head work, camshaft and tuning along with any other supporting modifications. I'm going to add oil analysis to monitor metals in the oil.
My HCI 09 Z06 (591/511 rw) is used for straight line 1/2+, open road events (150 mph continuous) and a few road course events just for play, not competition. WCCH did my heads and I used parts Katech recommended at the time except I used new OEM exhaust valves and Katech had moved on to TiMo exhaust valves especially for N/A build racing. I did the TiMo intake valves, 1511 springs Ti retainers and K501 cam. 12K miles after the upper end build and seeing Ti and increased lead in my oil analysis I got the bottom end redone. At that time WCCH disassembled the heads and took guide measurements and all was well. My heads are shaved .030, but my tune needed to be dialed back because we only have crap 91 octane fuel reasonably available where I live. I do mix 100 unleaded or Torco for events if it is available just to reduce potential fuel issues. With the forged bottom end I also had the Aviad oil pan baffles done and went with the Katech blue pump which has better scavenging than the OEM pump.
The balance between power and reliability is always the pocketbook. #1, do the heads right with good parts. I went the lightweight route ($1300 for intake valves alone), but steel valves with stronger springs will work. For $10K commercially you can do a good reliable HCI build in the 580 rwhp range. For $20K you can bulletproof it for racing (and more frequent rebuilds), but then is the rest of your car up to it?
I strongly recommend doing an oil analysis (I use Blackstone Labs) at oil changes to keep track of wear and other contaminants in the oil. I still had good lubricating properties after 5K miles including several performance events. I ran the engine for 50K+ miles before Ti started to show and at the same time lead doubled and I started to see oil pressure excursions. That is why I got the bottom end redone. Ti was likely from limited wear showing up on the Ti rods and some wear on the main bearings.
I take care of my father during the winter months so progress will be slow. He is back home with mom for Christmas so I pulled the engine so I can take it apart Thursday and see what is going on. Just got married Friday so things have been pretty busy. I installed two layers of lights around the garage so it is about impossible to get a picture that isn't washed out.
Priorities. LOL. Actually, she is an ex-drag racer and had a faster car than I ever will.
My Oil analysis was confusing me until I took the engine apart today, It had high lead but titanium was pretty good. The wear on the intake valves explains the titanium and the higher than expected lead was from the bearings. The back of the camshaft sprocket was wearing against the camshaft retaining plate and was wearing the front bearings from the fine debris. The rod coatings look pretty good on both sides. The pictures are of the sides of the rods that face each other.
I'm still deciding which direction I want to take this engine. My initial thoughts are to sell the rods to someone with SBE goals or other interested in them. I'll have to see what they go for.
Originally Posted by AzDave47
Those rods look very good, better than mine before bottom end rebuild although my just had some scuffing and a few scratches.
I am impressed how good the rods look. They have a little over 33k miles on them.
Update:
Well...the block was supposed to arrive at HPR yesterday 1/7/2019. It did not arrive.
A little history:
Monday 12/31/2018, I went to the UPS Store and asked if they were able to ship an engine block in a crate. They stated they could ship anything but it would be easier if it weighed less than 150 lbs so I got things ready for shipment.
Wednesday 1/2/2019, 11:45AM the block was taken to UPS and I could tell they were not thrilled to ship my engine block.
Thursday 1/3/2019, I noticed no updates on the tracking number so I called UPS to see what I should do. They said they didn't see that a driver was scheduled to pick up the package and recommended I go check to make sure it shipped.
Friday 1/4/2019, I went back to the UPS Store to see if the block shipped. I was told that it did ship because the person I spoke with had to stay late for the block to be picked up but was told "the driver probably got lazy and didn't scan it."
Monday 1/7/2019, I sent an email asking HPR if they received the block with pictures of the block crated up. I got a reply stating they have not received a block. I called UPS back and they recommended going back to the UPS Store to "start and investigation".
I am hopeful the block will arrive today and only got delayed due to the high volume of packaged I saw UPS processing but am gathering my information to start the investigation.
Here is a screen shot of the tracking number status I took this morning. Not a confidence inspiring tracking number report. What do you guys think?
Last edited by MickVette; 01-08-2019 at 07:40 AM.
Reason: Info
We will sure let you know as soon as the truck arrives. If it is coming normal UPS truck then they get here 11-12:30pm central time most days. If is coming UPS truck freight then it can vary a day or two depending on when the terminal loads the trucks for different areas. We get those in here 11-4 most days.
We will sure let you know as soon as the truck arrives. If it is coming normal UPS truck then they get here 11-12:30pm central time most days. If is coming UPS truck freight then it can vary a day or two depending on when the terminal loads the trucks for different areas. We get those in here 11-4 most days.
Thank you. Started the Investigation and Claim process since it is beyond 24 hours past due.
12-13-2018, 08:54 PM
