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Time for valve guides, and a few upgrades while I'm in there
C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
I'm happy it finally arrived! It looks like it is in good condition - no fork lift holes through the sides that we can tell. I was expecting to see all the countries stamps of everywhere it had been. I think it sat at the Tampa UPS hub for a week or so though.
I'm happy it finally arrived! It looks like it is in good condition - no fork lift holes through the sides that we can tell. I was expecting to see all the countries stamps of everywhere it had been. I think it sat at the Tampa UPS hub for a week or so though.
Moving forward.......
Excitement building!!!
No holes and no damage. Being prepped and inspected here this morning. It was packed very well!!!
We, HPR and I, picked components for the rebuild and the process has started.
The McLeod RXT clutch has been rebuilt and on it's way back.
Dad and I pulled the oil tanks from under the passenger fender and cleaned the goop and mess out of there. It had considerable sludge in the bottom. The sludge was magnetic so I think I found where the cam retention plate material ended up mostly. We separated the tanks and flushed everything out with gallons of solvent until no discoloration. We also cleaned the lines from the tank to the oil pan. Does anyone know if those should be replaced or if they are smooth inside and can be properly cleaned?
The oil cooler and cooler lines will be replaced. Not even going to attempt to clean a stacked plate design cooler.
Ordered 3" valves and stainless piping to modify the mufflers for a true 3" bypass.
That's about it for now. Mostly been winter fishing here in FL with Dad during his stay.
Is the oil tank sludge a typical thing? Were they hard to remove and clean? My junk is all apart and drained now, wondering if it's the time to check/clean.
Is the oil tank sludge a typical thing? Were they hard to remove and clean? My junk is all apart and drained now, wondering if it's the time to check/clean.
I highly recommend taking the time to clean the tanks.
There are two tanks that come out together.
You have to remove the inner fender well cover and lower screws to the bottom of the passenger fender and one that you get to from inside the wheel well opening. The screw is located near the door hinges area at the rear of the fender (lower the tanks a little first for easier access). Removing these screws will allow the fender to flex out of the way.
Disconnect the lines from the tanks and one electrical connection, a few on the tops and the bottom has one bolt to each line (supply and return).
There are two large bolts at the bottom of the tank that go into the frame and one small bolt on top. once you lower the tanks, the access to the fender bolt you get to inside the inner fender access is much easier to access with a long extension.
Removing the oil fill cap gives one less lip to catch on the wiring that runs near the can.
Carefully remove the two clips and the piece between the tanks can be removed and cleaned as well (bottom pic). The clips are sprung so they will want to launch themselves to a place impossible to find.
Remove the band band clamp holding the two tanks together.
Be mindful of the sealing surfaces and seals at each connection. I'm not sure how available replacements are or where to get seals.
That's all I took so I could get it back together properly. We were pressed for time. I wish I had before and after cleaning pics to share. Quite a difference!
Waiting on the crankshaft and pistons. Custom billet cranks are typically 14-16 weeks or more, which is generally the longest wait time on an engine like this.
Waiting on the crankshaft and pistons. Custom billet cranks are typically 14-16 weeks or more, which is generally the longest wait time on an engine like this.
If i buy a short block for the ls7 c6 z06 from Germany from your page or company. How long need this to the build up to shipping to the Germany!?
And what is the difference to hpr 427 aluminium short block to 454 std deck !?
(I know the cubic inch but what is std deck)
And what is better gm ls7 block or LS sleeved block for n/a 700hp on the crank without nos and e85 just 95 pump gas.
If i buy a short block for the ls7 c6 z06 from Germany from your page or company. How long need this to the build up to shipping to the Germany!?
And what is the difference to hpr 427 aluminium short block to 454 std deck !?
(I know the cubic inch but what is std deck)
And what is better gm ls7 block or LS sleeved block for n/a 700hp on the crank without nos and e85 just 95 pump gas.
Thanks for your answer nice builds man !
Typically a 427 is a 4.125 bore with a 4.000 stroke. A "normal" 454 is 4.185 bore with a 4.125 stroke, that is assuming you are using a normal 9.240 deck height block.
The LS7 block isn't bad and it has a number of good points to it, adding Darton sleeves to it will add in the cylinder strength and it also typically adds cylinder length so for some of the bigger stroke setups you will have more support for the piston.
Build times, all depends on what the customer wants. On something like you see here with a custom billet crank, you could very well be waiting 14-18 weeks on the crankshaft alone. Easier to get, shelf stock parts you can have engines go together a little quicker but our min time is typically 4 weeks from the time a customer says go on just the short block. Again depending on what we have in the shop and lead times on parts if we don't have them on the shelf.
01-09-2019, 09:36 AM
