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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
So I've been on the hunt for the perfect clutch combo for my 08 Z06. I thought I had it hammered down to the LS9X with Katech (Tilton) slave and Tick master cylinder. Then I found out about the Monster LT1-S twin, newer OEM design, for about a 1/3 the cost. I called monster and asked what slave is required to run the LT1-S and they said the original ls7 slave is what is used. I still want to use the Katech slave, but from what I understand it measures .950 shorter than the LS7 slave.
What I know:
LS9X clutch= LS9(ZR1) slave (shorter than original)
LS7 clutch= LS7 slave
LT1-S clutch= LS7 slave
Before I make my order I want to make sure all my parts will work together, does anyone know if I can use a spacer on the Katech HD slave, no problem? I read somewhere that it has a threaded anti-rotation sleeve that threads into the torque tube, and I dunno if that would interfere with the spacer?
I want to run the Monster LT1-S twin with Katech HD slave, Katech spacer, and a Tick master cylinder.
Any inputs are welcomed, trying to get this order in today so I can have all this stuff ready for next weekend!!
Why? Just order the monster setup and be done. Tick is argueably a big downgrade, and zero need for katech master with that clutch.
If you are willing to blow that ammount of money, just do a triple or mantic.
I guess I have been reading to much into the stock LS7 slave cylinder failures. I have planned to do the Katech HD slave, since I burned up the clutch about 3 months ago. Additionally read about the subpar GM master and I didn't want any problems there either.
Do you recommend an updated GM master and a stock LS7 slave with the billet bearing support?
LOL, I never WANT to blow my money, I just want the BEST parts possible so I don't have to do the job twice.
Dont even need the billet support. They only melt if the clutch is dragging or overheating, and don't have an airgap so sit there and cook the slave. That is an install or clutch QC issue, not a slave issue.
Updated master, new ls7 slave, and monster dual unless you spring for the mantic dual or triple. RPS also makes a solid clutch.
I went with the Katech slave because my slave failed and I didn’t want to do it again. I was just street driving and never dumping the clutch but I have ARH 1 7/8 headers which were at the time uncoated, they are coated now. That may have contributed. Additionally I didn’t change the clutch fluid when I bought the car, definitely a big mistake on my part. Also the 3rd owner so I don’t know how it was treated before me.
Car is not running yet but we already ran into the space issue and have it solved I believe. Katech makes spacers to address the gap. Call Katech and they will give you a few measurements to take, then call back and order the correct spacer.
I went with the Katech slave because my slave failed and I didn’t want to do it again. I was just street driving and never dumping the clutch but I have ARH 1 7/8 headers which were at the time uncoated, they are coated now. That may have contributed. Additionally I didn’t change the clutch fluid when I bought the car, definitely a big mistake on my part. Also the 3rd owner so I don’t know how it was treated before me.
Car is not running yet but we already ran into the space issue and have it solved I believe. Katech makes spacers to address the gap. Call Katech and they will give you a few measurements to take, then call back and order the correct spacer.
I'm guessing you also did the Tick MC aswell. Katechs website says you have to use the tick MC with their slave. If not how did you adapt the line? What clutch do you have with the Katech slave??
I'm regressing getting the Tick MC now as I'm reading it moves too much fluid and if you don't adjust it correctly it will push the fingers on the pressure plate too much and cause you more problems, also cruise control problems, and the need to limit the stroke of the clutch pedal, ect.. never ends...
I'm guessing you also did the Tick MC aswell. Katechs website says you have to use the tick MC with their slave. If not how did you adapt the line? What clutch do you have with the Katech slave??
I'm regressing getting the Tick MC now as I'm reading it moves too much fluid and if you don't adjust it correctly it will push the fingers on the pressure plate too much and cause you more problems, also cruise control problems, and the need to limit the stroke of the clutch pedal, ect.. never ends...
yes did the tick master first before I knew for sure it was the slave since this was before the revised GM part and it was known to cause issues. But can’t comment on function as it has not run yet. From what I understand though it’s adjustable to dial the amount of fluid being moved.
I was also told if that’s still not dialed back enough the bore can be swapped to a smaller one to move less fluid. But that’s just going off what my shop told me, can’t personally verify yet.
edit: sorry missed the question on the clutch. I'm using the stock LS7 clutch, but the flywheel has been lightened as part of this build. Hasn't been run like that yet. 10k miles on the car when I bought it, I put another 5k of easy driving on it. I will not be treating the clutch aggressively when the car is running again until I'm ready to upgrade the clutch.
i was after the same thing, a way to run the tilton slave due to the fear of the oem slave/bearing failing again.
i ended up with a mantic after several people and forum members i trust recommended it. just like said above.
i also bought the monster bearing support just for peace of mind. really just because it was inexpensive, plus it was green. knowing my red clutch and green support are in there makes me sleep better. that and i started taking aleve pm.
I just ordered the LT1-S twin with the standard weight flywheel, LS7 slave with the billet bearing support, updated GM Master cylinder and a Katech bleeder. Monster is having a sale aswell 125$ off of the clutch and free shipping, and they are installing the billet support bearing for me too. THANKS MONSTER!!!
Ronnie,,, That is what I am running in my H/C/I/E 08Z,,,, Love it. Have been to a couple of 1/2 mi events w 17in ET Streets... The clutch bites hard and is relentless... Its a great set up for the money,. I think you will enjoy it. Previous set ups include MCcleod RXT, Mantic twin.... Love the Monster LT-1S
Maybe should be in its own thread but here goes. My car is not stock with 750hp with long tube headers so it is a heat making monster. My initial clutch setup when I bought the car was a Katech LS dual disk with a stock res and slave. At the beginning of July I suffered a Reservoir failure, replaced with a stock one. When I picked it up I blew out the slave cylinder 2 miles down the road! I have pictures of the slave where you can see the plastic on the stock slave has just fallen apart from the heat. I purchased the complete set up from Katech Tick, Tilton and replace the pressure plate disks and friction surface while it was apart. I couldn't be happier! Besides a heavier peddle it is perfect. Also don't have to change the fluid or worry about my peddle sticking to the floor anymore, fluid has 1200 miles on it and is still like new.
Well I have finally got around to installing the LT1-S after the holidays, and I think there is a problem. I initially started the car and had a loud metallic chirping sound coming from the clutch area when the clutch was engaged. I started it back up to get a video and it seemed to be a little better (not much). I put it in gear and the axles started to turn slowly, and when I released the clutch they matched engine RPM. Also pressed the brake with it engaged in 1st and the car did want to stall. As I was doing all of this the sounds started to clear up. I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing at this point. lol.
All sounds were good so I took in out for a lap around the block. Go to put it in reverse. Shifter will not go into reverse. Played with it for a while, and got it to go. Probaly just need to re-check alignment of MGW lower box. Test drive was fine, but when I drove it later I noticed a vibration coming on after 2000 RPM. Clutch has all of 11 miles on it. Do I just need to give the clutch a little time to break-in or has anyone seen any of this.
You guys with the twin clutches, are y'all have any noise or chatter in neutral? I want to upgrade sometime in the future but the reviews on clutches are all over the board.
From everything I gather, the LS7 engine is internally balanced, unlike the LS6s that were hot balanced from the factory and zero balanced with flywheel weights. Knowing this I didn't even think to check the new clutch for zero, or look at my original, knowing Monster balances all clutches before they ship them. After multiple searches on vibrations, I was curious on what my OEM flywheel looked like, and I found this..
Notice the weights in the 11 and 12 spots. Does anyone know if this is how GM balances the clutch and flywheel as an assembly? Or for some reason did my LS7 come hot balanced?? If this is in fact externally balanced, this vibration a 2k rpm would make sense, as I did not have the new LT1-S balanced to the original assembly.
I spoke with Monster and they said to take it back out and send them pictures of everything. I wish it was just that easy.
You guys with the twin clutches, are y'all have any noise or chatter in neutral? I want to upgrade sometime in the future but the reviews on clutches are all over the board.
Jaybee,
I couldn't tell you yet, something is not right with mine. It did have a very bad metallic grinding/chirping first time I started it, but it went away. (sounded like the input shaft grinding on the pilot bearing). Only thing I hear now is the throwout bearing, but I have not put the center console back on so it is a little more pronounced. I give a good review when I get this all figured out..
11-01-2018, 05:09 PM
Monster LT1-S w/ Katech Slave???
